25m | E7
The excellent steep groove and diagonal crack 4 metres right of Caution.
(6b).Go up the slab to a bilberry ledge. Climb boldly and directly to a peg (good holds down and left to clip). and continue strenuously up the groove via a large undercut (Friend 1.5) to a rest at the second peg. Pull out leftwards onto a flake on the steep headwall (sling and tiny wire) and gain the diagonal crack via a hard move into the undercut. Follow the continuously difficult crack boldly to the top. There is gear in the crack but some is difficult to find and it's all pumpy to place.
Cleaned and top-roped prior to first ascent. All gear placed on the lead. E7 for a true on sight but, as the start of the route is most easily approached by abseil, E6 is more applicable.
First ascent: (13/09/2007) Paddy Deady, James McHaffie
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