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The Tower Buttress, Winter Variation

 200m | VI

This variation follows the summer route to the base of the second tower in two pitches, then takes easy ground to the left of the towers to gain Lord's Rake.
1 30m (6). Climb turf and ledges to the base of a narrow chimney, quite technical. Then squirm up narrow chimney to a ledge.
2 30m (6). Climb the chimey-corner to a chockstone and make brutal moves to a small ledge. Somehow insert yourself into the narrow slot above and squirm in a hopefully upwards direction to easier ground.
3 etc 120m. Easy ground to Lord's Rake.

On this ascent the left wall of the chimney was verglassed and covered in powder. The upper reaches of the summer route were not holding snow, so were avoided on the left.

The grade is a guess, certainly harder than 5, I don't know enough about 7!

 

First ascent: (27/02/2010) Ian Armstrong, Jeff Graham

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