86m | E5
Dave Menadue on the first ascent of Luminous Dog, Pavey Ark (Ron Kenyon)
Impressive climbing taking the wall between Gwynne’s Chimney and Golden Slipper. Rather scrappy low down but this is forgotten once one moves into the groove. Height is an advantage and a cool head essential. The belay at the top is set well back and a separate rope was use for the belay. Alternatively a higher belay could be taken at the bottom of the second pitch. Start to the left of Gwynne's Chimney as for Troll's Corner.
1 38m (4b) Move up left to the rowan tree. Climb up and traverse left to join Pokerface on the slabby wall and follow this and the grassy rake to belay on the left below a grassy corner.
2 48m (6a) Ascend the grassy corner rightwards to where it steepens, below a short corner crack. Gain this and climb it to gain the top of the huge flake traversed by Stalag. Move right slightly below the obvious groove – which unfortunately is initially devoid of gear. Getting into the groove is problematical and solved by climbing the undercut wall on the left to gain a hold and small crack in the left arete of the groove (HB Offset 4 placement in the crack). Continue up using the arete left of the groove to gain some sanctity and a poor runner placement at the top of the groove. Continue up the wall above and over a short overlap to a large flake. Finish up the wall above to the right of the corner.
Led after a failed on-sight attempt, followed by top roped ascent and cleaning – and also without chalk!
First ascent: (14/09/2002) Dave Menadue, Chris King, Ron Kenyon
No comments exists for this climb...
No Images exist...