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Current Bird Restrictions 2010
Peregrine in flight (Photo: RSPB Images)
Bird restrictions in the Lake District are agreed annually between representatives of the Lake District National Park Authority, the Cumbria Raptor Study Group, Natural England, The British Mountaineering Council and the FRCC.
The BMC is responsible for publicity, and the LDNPA for the erection of signs as well as dealing with issues as the season progresses.
Access & Conservation explains the reasons for the restrictions, how they are decided upon, and gives advice to climbers on what to do if they discover that protected birds are nesting on the crag they are visiting.
Please help maintain access by observing these voluntary Bird Restrictions.
In addition a few other restrictions have been listed, where noted these are voluntary, others are at the whim of the land-owner. In all cases negotiations have been made by the Lake District BMC Area Committee and have either resulted in compromise or stalemate.
These restrictions do work: despite adverse weather, many of the protected sites successfully reared chicks last year. As a result of the co-operation of climbers over the years, restrictions on many of the more popular low level crags have been lifted "unless the birds nest" - this is excellent news for climbers, so please continue to support the restrictions. But please also note, that where a crag is unrestricted this does not mean an automatic right to climb. If you suspect that there is a peregrine nesting on a crag, and it is obviously alarmed by your presence, then you should not climb there. Indeed, if you are aware of birds nesting elsewhere, please telephone National Park Ranger Peter Barron on 017687 79633 or email him at peterbarron@lake-district.gov.uk.
If you have any urgent comments on the current restrictions then please email them to the FRCC Guidebook Editor. All such comments should also be emailed to the BMC.
To check the latest access information nationwide:
England: British Mountaineering Council http://www.thebmc.co.uk/outdoor/rad/rad.asp
Wales: British Mountaineering Council http://www.thebmc.co.uk/outdoor/rad/rad.asp
Scotland: Mountaineering Council of Scotland www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk
Ireland: Mountaineering Council of Ireland www.mountaineering.ie
In the chart below, a green background means a bird restriction and yellow means some other sort of restriction. Grey means no restriction at present but thaere has been in the past and may be again in the future.
Langdale | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Langdale Boulders (314 058) | Climbers are asked to avoid bouldering on the face of the Lower Boulder that faces the road due to the rare ancient cup and ring markings that are carved on it. | Ancient Rock Art | Request to Avoid one small section |
| Lower Scout Crag, Langdale (298 069) | The farmer has asked groups to observe a voluntary restriction to avoid the crag during lambing time. Dogs should be kept on a lead. However this crag is now on Public Access land so use by individuals should not legally be hindered. |
Lambs! | 1st April - 31st May |
Dow | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| Raven Crag, Yewdale (312 002) | Signed. The scramble up the Western Edge is not restricted. | Peregrine | 1st March - 30th June |
Duddon Valley | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| Lindale Slabs (418 817) | There are special arrangements for groups and individuals and climbing is not permitted on Saturdays during the shooting season (late October to early February). Individual climbers should seek permission for access from Mr Atkinson, Sunny Green Farm (just to the north of the crag at SD 419 821). The landowner has an agreement with local outdoor centres that one group of 20 people, or 2 smaller groups of 10 people can use the crag at any given time. Groups should make bookings with the Field Studies Council, Castlehead Field Centre (Tel: 015395 34300). Please inform the Centre of any changes of plan so that spare time can be re-allocated. | All year | |
| Stonestar Crag, Duddon (203 907) | Unsigned. No restriction unless birds nest. | Peregrine | |
| Wallowbarrow Crag (East Buttress) (222 967) | Unsigned. No restriction unless birds nest. | Peregrine | |
| Wallowbarrow Gorge (224 966) | Signed. | Peregrine | 1st March - 30th June |
Slate | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| Cathedral Quarry (314 028) | Some danger of rockfall. Group users should contact Jim Loxham of the National Trust No restriction for individual climbers. |
Group use - Some danger of rockfall | All year |
Eskdale | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| Heron Crag (222 030) | Unsigned. No restriction unless birds nest. | Peregrine | |
| Brantrake (145 984) | Signed. | Peregrine | 1st March - 30th June |
Wasdale | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| Latterbarrow (127 028) | Owner has banned climbing. | Not known | All year |
Pillar | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| Bowness Knott (NY 109 155) | Unsigned. | Peregrine | 1st March - 30th June |
| Pillar Rock (172 123) | There is no longer a BMC permit system to drive to Gillerthwaite, and you are not allowed to drive up the valley past Bowness Knott. | No driving beyond Bowness Knott. | All Year |
Buttermere | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| Buckstone How (223 143) | Unsigned. No restriction unless birds nest. | Peregrine | |
St Bees | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| St Bees Main Cliffs (939 145) | Climbing: Apiary Wall and Scabby Back (the main bolted areas) are unrestricted. All other areas including Fisherman's Steps are restricted. Bouldering: |
Seabirds | 1st Feb - 30th July |
Borrowdale | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| Castle Head Crag (269 227) | This crag is open for group use again. Access from the first gate in the main road from Keswick. Follow path to seat, then traverse to crag. Please don't use other paths. Please contact the National Trust if you need further information: 017687 74649. (26/05/06) | Not Restricted | |
| Castle Head Quarry (272 227) | The National Trust have banned group use of the quarry due to the dangerous nature of the rock. There is an alternative abseil set up at Quayfoot Quarry - please contact the National Trust on 017687 74649 for details. | Rockfall | Indefinite |
| Upper Falcon Crag (272 206) | Signed. |
Peregrine | 1st March - 30th June |
| Lower Falcon Crag (271 205) | No restrictions unless birds nest (this happened in 2009 so be prepared). |
Peregrine/Raven | No restriction unless birds nest |
| Reecastle Bluff (273 176) | This is the small craglet under Reecastle Crag sometimes used by groups. Group use has been banned on the advice of Natural England as it is in an SSSI. This does not affect individuals. | Erosion | Indefinite |
| Ashness Cottage Crag (Cat Ghyll Bluffs) (269 195) | Group use of these crags (GR 269 195) has been banned on the advice of Natural England as they are in an SSSI. This does not affect individuals. | Erosion | Indefinite |
| Eagle Crag (277 122) | Unsigned. No restriction unless birds nest. If birds nest, the routes from Dumbo Cracks to Trapeze are OK, all others should be avoided. | Peregrine | |
Eastern Crags | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| Thackmell Crag (309 156) | Unsigned. No restriction unless birds nest. | Peregrine | |
| Raven Crag, Thirlmere (304 188) | Signed. This site will be regularly monitored and the restriction may be lifted if the birds do not nest. |
Peregrine | 1st March - 30th June |
| Gowbarrow, Lower Crag (Yew Crag) (414 205) | This is the buttress that has bolt belays and is used by groups; such use is administered by Ullswater OB (01768 485000). However there has been a big rockfall on this buttress. | ||
| Upper Thrang Crag (Allen Crag) (431 177) | Signed. The birds on Thrang vary their nest sites and restrictions may be changed. Farm Buttress is unrestricted. May be extended to 30th June if peregrines nest. |
Raven/Peregrine | 15th Feb - 31st May |
| Lower Thrang Crag (Raven Crag) (431 177) | Signed. The birds on Thrang vary their nest sites and restrictions may be changed. Farm Buttress is unrestricted. May be extended to 30th June if peregrines nest. |
Raven/Peregrine | 15th Feb - 31st May |
| Swarthbeck Gill (454 205) | Signed. This restriction applies to the popular scramble. | Raven | 15th Feb - 31st May |
| Raven Crag,Threshthwaite Cove (419 112) | Signed. The restriction also applies to the scrambles described in the Cicerone guide. |
Raven/Peregrine | 15th Feb - 31st May |
| Whelter Crag, Haweswater (462 137) | Some new routes have been done here, but the RSPB have asked that no further climbing takes place as the crag is important to the Haweswater eagle. The situation is being monitored. | Eagle | All year |
| North-East Buttress, Gowther Crag, Swindale (515 127) | Unsigned. No restriction unless birds nest. The restriction does not apply to the rest of the crag. | Peregrine | |
| Buckbarrow, Longsleddale (483 073) | Signed. The restriction applies to both lower and uper crags. It also applies to the scramble in the Cicerone guide. |
Raven | 15th Feb - 31st May |
| Badger Rock, Kentmere (450 042) | No dogs - even on leads. | No Dogs | All year |
| Raven Crag , Kentmere (455 050) | Signed. Although there are only two poor climbs on this crag, there is a popular scramble in the Cicerone guide: this should be avoided. | Raven/Peregrine | 15th Feb - 30th June |
| Calf Howe Crag, Kentmere (458 052) | Unsigned - will not be signed unless birds nest. | Peregrine | No restriction unless birds nest. |
Eden Valley and North Cumbria | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| Park Head Quarry (336 405) | "High cost of Public Liability Insurance." | Owner has banned climbing. | All year |
| Summerground Crag, Greystoke | Owner has banned climbing. | Not known | All year |
| Johnby Crag, Greystoke | Owner has banned climbing. | Not known | All year |
| Lazonby (527 427) | Owner has banned climbing. | Not known | All year |
| Kings Meaburn (Jackdaw Scar) (618 213) | No group use allowed. Previous problems. Negotiated agreement allows access for individual climbers. | No group use | Groups banned all year |
| Black Force, Howgills (644 992) | Signed. There is one winter climb on this crag, but no rock climbing. There is a popular scramble in the Cicerone guide: this should be avoided. Walkers should avoid the area around the gill. | Raven/Peregrine | 15th Feb - 30th June |
South Lakes Limestone | |||
| Notes | Reason | Restriction Dates | |
| Chapel Head Scar (433 862) | Signed. This site will be regularly monitored and the restriction will be lifted if the birds do not nest. General Access Agreement: No climbing left of Central Gully. Use only marked paths. No gardening or lopping of trees. Do not top out - use the lower offs. |
Peregrine | 15th Feb - 30th June |
| White Scar (459 853) | Signed. The landowners do not allow climbing at this crag. However, if they did, this restriction would apply. | Peregrine/Raven | 1st March - 30th June |
| Raven Lodge Crag (463 856) | The local landowners are not keen on climbers accessing the crag. | Not known | All year |
| Humphrey Head (391 738) | Signed. |
Peregrine | 1st March - 30th June |