Langdale

Climbers are asked to avoid bouldering on the face of the Lower Boulder that faces the road due to the rare ancient cup and ring markings that are carved on it.

The farmer has asked groups to observe a voluntary restriction to avoid the crag during lambing time. Dogs should be kept on a lead. However this crag is now on Public Access Land so use by individuals should not legally be hindered.

Unsigned.

Peregrines look to be nesting on Stewpot Buttress on the far right of Raven Crag, Langdale (this is some way to the right of Centipede) - please avoid that area to minimise disturbance. Centipede and the rest of Raven Crag to the left is not restricted.
 

Dow

In 2010 peregrines nested on the upper right-hand side of A Buttress. In 2011 they successfully nested on D Buttress. There is no restriction at present but one may be introduced if birds nest in an area where it is felt climbers may affect them adversley.

Care needs to be taken on Dow and if peregrines that are nesting/alarming are encountered, climbers are requested to back off and let the National Park Blencathra Centre know where they are on the crag.

Signed. The scramble up the Western Edge is not restricted.

Slate

Some danger of rockfall. Group users should contact the National Trust prior to their first visit: 015394 41197.There is no restriction for individual climbers.

Duddon Valley

Signed. Birds nested successfully in 2011.

Signed.

Eskdale

Peregrines used to nest here and this is mentioned in the current (though out of print) guidebook, but they haven't done so for many years now.

Signed. Nested successfully in 2011.

Wasdale

Owner has banned climbing.

Unsigned. A regular nesting ground for peregrines. However, the crags are so poor and so scattered it it is not thought important to sign them.

There is no longer a BMC permit system to drive to Gillerthwaite, and you are not allowed to drive up the valley past Bowness Knott.

Buttermere

Peregrines nested here in 2009 but have not done so since. No restriction unless birds nest.

 Several winter climbers have reported being approached by staff of the slate quarry and being told that they were trespassing on private property problems and should not be climbing there. There have also been reports of attempts to block climbers' cars in using other vehicles.

However, the slate quarry does not own the crags, which are in any case on public access land.

If any climber is approached in such a manner they are requested to remain polite but to point out the above two facts. They are also requested to report the matter to the BMC and to Mark Eccles of the Lake District National Park Authority.

St Bees

Climbing:
Apiary Wall and Scabby Back (the main bolted areas) are not restricted.

All other areas including Fisherman's Steps are restricted.

Bouldering:
1) Apiary Wall and the boulders immediately at the foot of Fisherman's Steps - unrestricted.
2) Boulders to south of Fisherman's Steps - restricted.
3) Fleswick Bay - unrestricted (but only south of the inlet where the path comes down to the shore.
4) South Head - restricted.

Borrowdale

This crag is open for group use again. Access from the first gate in the main road from Keswick. Follow path to seat, then traverse to crag. Please don't use other paths. Please contact the National Trust if you need further information: 017687 74649.

The National Trust have banned group use of the quarry due to the dangerous nature of the rock. There is an alternative abseil set up at Quayfoot Quarry - please contact the National Trust on 017687 74649 for details.

Signed.

Signed. No climbing to the right of Spin Up or left of Interloper (Spin Up and Interloper can be climbed). Please keep the noise down! The restriction may be lifted early if the birds do not nest. However, there is also a possibility that peregrines may nest on this crag too. If they do, the restriction may be extended.

Lifted 23/3/12 as raven's have not nested.

This is the small craglet under Reecastle Crag sometimes used by groups. Group use has been banned on the advice of Natural England as it is in an SSSI. This does not affect individuals. 

Group use of these crags (GR 269 195) has been banned on the advice of Natural England as they are in an SSSI. This does not affect individuals.

No restriction unless birds nest. Birds nested here successfuly in 2011. If birds nest, the routes from Dumbo Cracks to Trapeze are OK, all others should be avoided.  

Unsigned. This restriction only applies to The Right Wall, ie from Peregrine Way to Prudence inclusive. Prudence is a recent E7 to the right of Caution. It does not affect Grey Knotts Face, String of Pearls, Gillercombe Buttress etc. The scramble in the Scrambles guide (most of Bentley's Rabbit’s Trod) is also OK to climb. as done the way the Scrambles guide describes it, the top section is well round the corner to the right and out of sight of the birds (way to the right of Caution etc). Birds nested here successfully in 2011.

Climbers are advised that a pair of peregrines look as if they are likely to nest in the vicinity of the crag. They have nested previously at Steel Knotts but have failed there and may be trying to locate a more advantageous nest site. If you visit Goat Crag please stick to the area around Praying Mantis and if you hear peregrines screeching please retreat. The crag is being regularly monitored by the National Park.

Update: 13/4/12, one of the birds is immature so they will not nest this year. Climbing is thus OK on all parts of Goat Crag.

Eastern Crags

No restriction unless birds nest. 

Signed. This site will be regularly monitored and the restriction may be lifted if the birds do not nest or if they nest elsewhere.

This is the buttress that has bolt belays and is used by groups; such use is administered by Ullswater OB (01768 485000). However there has been a big rockfall on this buttress.

Unsigned.

Signed. This restriction applies to the popular scramble. Nested successfully in 2011.

Signed. Nested successfully in 2011.

Signed. Nested successfully in 2011.

 Access denied by farmer.

Signed. The restriction also applies to the scrambles described in the Cicerone guide. If peregrines also nest the restriction may be extended until the end of June. Ravens nested successfully here in 2011.

Routes have been done here, but the RSPB have asked that no further climbing takes place as the crag is important to the Haweswater eagle. The situation is being monitored. 

A possible restriction is mentioned in the current guide but in fact birds have not nested here in recent years.

Signed. The restriction applies to both lower and uper crags. It also applies to the scramble in the Cicerone guide. It may be lifted if they nest elsewhere.

No dogs - even on leads.

Signed. Although there are only two poor climbs on this crag, there is a popular scramble in the Cicerone guide: this should be avoided. If peregrines also nest on this crag, the restriction may be extended.

Signed.

Unrestricted unless birds nest. If restricted, the restriction will not necessarily be signed and will also apply to the two scrambles in the Cicerone guide.

Eden Valley and North Cumbria

"High cost of Public Liability Insurance."

Owner has banned climbing.

Owner has banned climbing.

Owner has banned climbing.

No group use allowed (except local army) due to previous problems. Negotiated agreement allows access for individual climbers.

 New land owner has received legal advice not to allow climbing. BMC are in negotiation Dec 2011.

Signed. There is one winter climb on this crag, but no rock climbing. There is a popular scramble in the Cicerone guide: this should be avoided. Walkers should avoid the area around the gill. The restriction may be extended if peregrines nest.

South Lakes Limestone

Access to the crag will be restricted on certain days - to be announced.

Signed. The peregrines succeeded in raising young in 2010 and 2011 and the co-operation of climbers in avoiding the crag was much appreciated. The site will be regularly monitored and the restriction will be lifted if the birds do not nest.

General Access Agreement: No climbing left of Central Gully. Use only marked paths. No gardening or lopping of trees. Do not top out - use the lower offs.

Unsigned. The landowners do not allow climbing at this crag. However, if they did, this restriction would apply.

The local landowners are not keen on climbers accessing the crag.

Signed.  

No restriction unless birds nest. It was thought that they were nesting here in 2011 but this proved not to be the case.

There are special arrangements for groups and individuals and climbing is not permitted on Saturdays during the shooting season (late October to early February). Individual climbers should seek permission for access from Mr Atkinson, Sunny Green Farm (just to the north of the crag at SD 419 821). The landowner has an agreement with local outdoor centres that one group of 20 people, or 2 smaller groups of 10 people can use the crag at any given time. Groups should make bookings with the Field Studies Council, Castlehead Field Centre (Tel: 015395 34300). Please inform the Centre of any changes of plan so that spare time can be re-allocated.

Signed.