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30m HVS
Start as for Gargoyle.
(5a). Climb Gargoyle pitch 1 until it is possible to gain a groove in the left wall. Climb this, pulling out left at its top. Move up through the traverse on Gargoyle pitch 2 and climb the wall above to an overhang. Pull directly over this , avoiding the large suspect block on the left. Move up rightwards to a flake, then step left around a rib to an easy groove.
First ascent: (03/05/1998) T Thompson, B North
35m HVS
A direct line up the clean wall to the left of The Gargoyle. Start as for The Gargoyle.
(5a). Climb The Gargoyle corner for a metre or so and then pull leftwards into a steep groove. Climb it to the top and trend rightwards to a big spike runner and a junction with the traverse line on pitch 2 of The Gargoyle. Climb directly up the wall to the overlap (Friend ½). Pull directly over this and ascend the narrowing wall.
First ascent: (18/04/2000) RJ Gordon, A Swann,
" Could be Zool? " Anonymous 27/04/2008 11:04:43
E4
3 (6a). As for the parent route to the large holds in triangular recess. Move up rightwards and gain the diagonal crack with difficulty. Follow this, quickly, rightwards to the top.
First ascent: (16/06/1996) T Thompson, R Southall
35m E5
The main pitch climbs the wall right of Queen of Change. A fall from the final moves may well have a grassy landing! Start as for Gargoyle.
1 15m (4c). Move left up easy rocks and climb a crackline on the front of the buttress to a thread belay at the end of Gargoyle pitch 2.
2 20m (6a). Approximately 3m up the grass ledge is a small bulge at head height. Surmount this to gain a side hold on the left. Pull up to another side hold on the wall and make a long reach up left to a finger jam (RP2). Continue direct on small flat holds to finish at a jammed flake at the top of a diagonal crack.
First ascent: (31/08/1998) T Thompson, B North
"Top-roped prior to leading. " Anonymous 27/04/2008 11:11:49
"Zig Zag HVS, top pitch thought to be 5b/c by Rick Gordon & Alan Swann " Anonymous 27/04/2008 11:12:40