Tortoise Crag

Page: 236 Alt: 270m GR: 206 017

Trevor Langhorne
03/08/2009 12:34:45
We hared (Ho ho ho) up to this crag for a look after the rain had stopped late in the afternoon of a very rainy day. With the exception of a couple of wet streaks around the central mucky crack line the crag was dry. As with all low angle slabby granite crags the climbing was a bit repetitive but some climbing is better than none! Protection was usually notably lacking and belaying on top is a challenge worthy of use as an SPA assessment; consequently many routes were soloed. Using the route numbers on the website photodiagram I offer the following comments.
Routes 5 & 6 pleasant, latter worth a *?
Routes 7, 8 and 9 all VS 4b for about 30' (oops 10m) then much easier to top.
Route 10 holds a wide wet streak.
Route 11 MVS 4b worth a *?
Route 13 HS 4b worth a *?
Route 14 VS 4b.
Route 15 MVS 4b.
Route 16 MS.
The three traverses (routes 1-3)seem rather pointless as the crag could be traversed at almost any level.
Overall a pleasant crag that should be included in future guides as a photodiagram, complementing both Goat and Hare Crags which are close by.

Bill Pattison
11/10/2008 17:48:45
Many of these routes have been climbed before.

1. Take it Easy

100m HS

First ascent: (14/09/2002) Paul C Bennett (solo)

2. Witchy Woman

75m D

First ascent: (14/09/2002) Paul C Bennett (solo)

3. Lyin' Eyes

50m S

First ascent: (14/09/2002) Paul C Bennett (solo)

4. Egret

30m D

Easy left slanting crack.

First ascent: (07/10/2007) Freya and Martin Scrowston

5. Esio-trot

30m VD

Direct up slabs.

First ascent: (07/10/2007) Freya and Martin Scrowston

6. Best of My Love

30m VD

First ascent: (14/09/2002) Paul C Bennett (solo)

7. Already Gone

30m VS

(4b).

First ascent: (14/09/2002) Paul C Bennett (solo)

Climb Gallery

Paul C Bennett on Already Gone (VS).

8. Desperado

30m VS

(4c).

First ascent: (14/09/2002) Paul C Bennett (solo)

"Martin Scrowston has cleaned and repeated this route which should now be graded at 4b." Paul C Bennett 11/10/2008 17:31:59

9. Eagle Eye

30m VS-

Start below hanging vegetated crack.
(4b).

First ascent: (07/10/2007) Martin Scrowston (solo)

10. Tequila Sunrise

25m VS

(4c).

First ascent: (14/09/2002) Paul C Bennett (solo)

11. Take it to the Limit

25m VS

(4c).

First ascent: (14/09/2002) Paul C Bennett (solo)

12. Egalitarian

30m HS

Start below heather blob- climb direct.

First ascent: (07/10/2007) Martin Scrowston (solo)

13. Eagle and Child

30m VD

Obvious left slanting crack.

First ascent: (07/10/2007) Martin and Freya Scrowston

14. One of those Nights

25m VS

(4c).

First ascent: (14/09/2002) Paul C Bennett (solo)

"Martin Scrowston has cleaned and repeated this route which should now be graded at 4b." Paul C Bennett 11/10/2008 17:33:33

Climb Gallery

Paul C Bennett on One of These Nights ( VS).

15. Peaceful Easy Feeling

25m VS

(4b).

First ascent: (14/09/2002) Paul C Bennett (solo)

16. One of Those Days

30m S

Left slanting cleaned crack.

First ascent: (07/10/2007) Martin Scrowston (solo)

17. Fallen Eagle

30m S

Slabs direct passing heather ledge.

First ascent: (07/10/2007) Martin Scrowston (solo)

18. Hawk Eye

35m S

Traverse left under small overhang passing obvious downwards pointing spike to ledge. Finish direct.

First ascent: (07/10/2007) Martin Scrowston (solo)

19. Night Hawk

15m VD

Obvious black quartz crack.

First ascent: (07/10/2007) Martin Scrowston (solo)

20. Balding Eagle

15m HS

Last clean slab direct.

First ascent: (07/10/2007) Martin Scrowston (solo)

21. Long Road out of Eden

10m D

Climb the arete direct (escapable on the right).

First ascent: (07/10/2007) Martin Scrowston (solo)