** 90m E1
A big mountaineering route with considerable variety and interest. Possibly ***? A classic of the valley. Longer than Nimrod, just as entertaining, but is it as good? Start 8 metres left of Original Route, at the second crack system.
1 18m (4b). Climb easily to the foot of the steeper wall, where a fine crack leads up and left to the blocky ledge.
2 14m (4c). From the shorter block at the left side of the ledge, pull up into a short steep groove to reach a large ledge. Block belay further back.
3 18m (5a). Step right onto the slab to reach a small horizontal break (Friend and nut runner). Climb delicately up and right using the edge of the slab to gain a dank corner. Swing left onto the front face and climb straight up to the crest of an arete. Move up this to a block belay.
4 12m. Easily along the ridge and over a pinnacle to belay in the gap (as for Original Route).
5 28m (5b). Pull up right to a ledge and block below a smooth steep corner. Climb this to a difficult exit onto a slab on the right, then continue to a grass ledge system. Using a short vertical crack in the headwall, pull right into a recessed scoop and follow this to the top.
First ascent: (09/04/2011) Al Phizacklea, JL Holden
"Not as good a Nimrod but well worth going to do. " Ron Kenyon 07/06/2012 17:39:22 Voted: **
"Original Route - The start of the second pitch is described as "overhanging, unprotected, strenuous and committing - much harder than VD. It also seems impossible to start from the lower block, as mentioned in the route description - but if so it came off a while ago, as the only possible scar mark now has lichen on it. " Anonymous 14/04/2008 13:57:16
"Checked this route out this weekend - Probably the biggest V Diff sandbag in history! It's solid Severe, maybe HS for the start of Pitch 2. The description will be amended in the new guide, as everybody now belays in the 'gap' at the end of Pitch 4, and they follow a grassy groove up left to start P. 5, not belaying on the higher block as described in the guide." Al Phizacklea 11/04/2011 21:16:30 Voted: **
Two routes added to the short, clean wall up and left of Falcon Crest, one HVS and an E1. I don't have any details to hand, but Mr. Holden has details already written for the new guide. If you want to check these out, give him a shout.
This note has been added to prevent disappointment to any potential first ascentionists who think that they might have found some virgin rock.
First ascent: (10/10/2010) Al Phizacklea, JL Holden
Start about 30 metres below a short dry stone wall on the descent rake, at the point where the descent rake drops steeply away, right of Trio. An interesting and entertaining route
1 18m (5b). Climb from the right to gain short ribbed slabs which lead to the base of a steep little groove. Bridge up this awkwardly (the crack is often damp) to a large ledge.
2 28m (5a). Climb the central groove which has a thin crack in its left wall and some entertaining pockets, to a ledge. Easier slabs lead to the top. Scramble or Abseil down left.
First ascent: (09/04/2011) Al Phizacklea, JL Holden (almost 3 years after Al's accident!)