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This is the first crag above the right-hand side of the tarn, 10 minutes from the dam. Although broken in appearance most routes on the crag provide surprisingly good climbing. The first rock reached is a boulder like wall offering three routes. Behind this is a grassy terrace and the main part of the crag which consists of a band of slabby pillars and cracks. The first three routes are on the lower 'boulder' wall starting with a corner with a juniper at its base.
13m E2
(5c). Delicately climb the right facing corner in its entirety.
First ascent: (22/08/1999) J Daly (solo)
14m E2
(5b). Start just left of Big Bird. Climb the right-hand side of the wall via a tiny right facing corner, up right to a thumb nail spike, step back left, then up the headwall above to easy slabs.
First ascent: (30/07/1999) D Geere, J Daly
14m E1
(5c). Start just left of Reservoir Dogs. Climb the wall via a faint depression and the right side of a tiny roof, stay on the steep rock and pull up right into a scoop then up to an easy slabby groove.
First ascent: (30/07/1999) J Daly, D Geere,
20m MVS
The next routes are on the main crag . The first route starts just right of a dirty chimney/groove (probably Musvac).
(4c). Pull up to and over an obvious hollow block at 4 metres, step left and climb the slabby headwall above.
First ascent: (30/07/1999) D Geere, J Daly
20m HVS
(5b). Start 3 metres left of the chimney/groove. Climb the right facing corner crack with an awkward pull out at its top. Continue up the crack line to a ledge, traverse 2 metres right then finish up the slab above.
First ascent: (31/07/1999) J Daly, D Geere
20m VS
(4b). Just left of Dambusters is a pair of cracks. Climb the prominent left-hand crack until forced into the vague right hand one, up this to a ledge. Climb directly up the wall above trending left to finish.
First ascent: (31/07/1999) J Daly, D Geere
20m E2
Three metres left of 617 Squadron is a fine pitch up a thin finger crack. Start beneath the crack.
(6a). Step up leftwards onto a small glacis at 3 metres then pull back right to gain the strenuous finger crack, climb it to a heather ledge. Easier slabs above to finish.
First ascent: (30/07/1999) J Daly, D Geere
20m MVS
Start beneath a scimitar shaped crack high in the arete left of Lancaster Bomber.
(4b). Delicately climb a vague ramp line up left to the arete. Climb the crack above, step left to cross the heather ledge, then follow easy slabs above.
First ascent: (24/07/1999) D Geere, J Daly
20m VS
Four metres left of Fatboy is a recessed stepped slab with a block leaning against its base.
(4c). Climb the recessed slab to a delicate crux by the juniper. Continue up the centre of the slab to the upper overlap, surmount it on the right, then follow easy leftward-slanting grooves to finish. Belay on ledge down right.
First ascent: (30/07/1999) J Daly, D Geere
14m HVS
Left again is a steeper pillar of rock. Start up the right edge of the pillar.
(5a/b). Pull into a shallow scoop then climb the right-hand edge of the pillar until a curving weakness can be followed left across the face. Finish up the left edge.
First ascent: (30/07/1999) D Geere, J Daly
14m S
100 metres up to the right of the main crag is a pleasant slab. Eder starts just right of the central wet streak.
Boldly climb the centre of the slab.
First ascent: (31/07/1999) J Daly, D Geere
14m HS
From a flake, climb the blunt left rib of the slab.
First ascent: (22/08/1999) J.Daly (solo)
14m VD
Climb the right edge of the slab containing Eder and Mohne.
First ascent: (25/08/2002) M Lynch, D Kay