Yew Crags
Page: 54
Peregrine Buttress
180m VD
This crag is seen up on left on the flank of Dale head as one walks up to Honister.
500 feet. Start at the lowest left-hand corner of the crag.
(1) 100 feet. A wall, steep but avoidable, with excursions to the left where necessary. Exposed.
(2) 250 feet. Straight up the buttress ahead, on splintery rock, with a variety of line choice.
(3) 150 feet. The buttress splits, the left-hand division forming a steep nose which awaits conquest. The climb makes for the crack junction of the divide and continues up it on heather to the top.
First ascent: (25/07/1941) CWF Noyce (solo)
Yew Crag Gully
"In the current Buttermere guide it says that the central section of Yew Crag Gully is unclimbed. However, in the FRCC Journal 1922 p99, it states: Yew Crag Gully - H Booth led RW Hall up the difficult and (?) hitherto unclimbed pitch of this gully in August. It requires a 50 foot run out over fine rock, part of which consists of a crack." Stephen Reid 07/08/2010 09:10:02
... and Dance
* 35m E2
A good route climbing the twin groove right of Face the Music.
(5c) Follow Face the Music to the overhang. Make difficult moves up the right hand groove. Climb the short arete to the top.
First ascent: (07/06/2008) Simon Litchfield, Karl Telfer
"Paul Donnithorne and I climbed this route 0n 2nd June. We thought we were doing a new route and thought it hard E3 6a or E4. We cleaned out cracks in the groove (clearly not been cleaned before)which enabled reasonable small & medium wire pro. There was also an in situ wire in Face the Music which could be clipped - E4 without this. Finished up the arete above & to the right on big holds." pete johnson 10/06/2010 15:44:26 Voted: **
"Simon spent a fair amount of time cleaning this route. As with any new route it's difficult to grade after you have abbed down it. Seconding, it didn't seem too bad and I'm sure there was a good runner near the middle of the groove. 'First Reserve' is quite a bit harder and more serious. There is a direct on this waiting to be done. The moves will be difficult and the rock is very snappy and protection poor. My neck is getting shorter with old age !! " Karl Telfer 24/06/2010 22:05:04
Substitute Direct
35m E2
Good climbing tackling the overhung wall above Substitute.
(5c) Follow Substitute and where the original route steps right onto the glacis continue directly over the overhang above in spectacular position.
First ascent: (12/06/2008) Simon Litchfield, Matthew Dowson, Karl Wood
Climb Gallery
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First Reserve
* 40m E3
More good climbing taking the wall and arete right of Substitute.
(5c) Follow Substitute to the base of the corner. Climb the crack on the right for a couple of moves to the dubious block. Climb the wall diagonally rightwards to the top right edge. Move onto the glacis. Step right and climb the flying arete direct.
First ascent: (07/06/2008) Karl Telfer, Simon Litchfield
Compost
35m VS
(4c). Climb the arete right of Garden Wall. Follow a direct line to the top.
First ascent: (07/06/2008) Simon Litchfield (solo)