The farm has a new tenant. He is happy for climbers to park as before and is intending to open up a bunkhouse within two years.
Start 2 metres right of The Leaf.
(4c). Follow the right-slanting groove line to the rib just above the undercut. Climb the rib directly until joining up with The Leaf which is followed to the top.
Recorded by Tony 'Faz' Faraday, Bryony White, Tom Walkington, with a first ascent date of 28th August 1999, but noted by the same team as "mentioned in the 1993 Duddon Guide as 'the short undercut rib immediately right of The Leaf providing interesting moves at VS (4c)'. Deserves a proper description."
First ascent: (16/04/2008)
A fine eliminate style main pitch is the highlight of this climb. Start just left of the easy initial rib of Malediction Direct.
1 35m (5a). Scramble up steep heather for 20 metres to the foot of the buttress, some 5 metres under the hanging groove of Malediction Direct (wire). Traverse 2 metres left on heather and climb onto a large perilously poised block. Steep moves over the bulge above and up the rib/groove (Micro-Friends) lead to a good resting point and junction with Western Wall. Make a few moves directly up the wall (as for Western Wall) to a good Friend slot and wires, and then traverse horizontally left on excellent fingerholds, passing just under a shallow scoop, to gain a good foothold on the rib on the left. Follow the rib more easily to a good stance.
2 15m (4b). Climb the wall just right of the stance to heather, then gain and follow the rib above (just right of the final groove of The Leaf. Either belay directly, or run the rope out and sit down in a hollow in lieu of anchors!
NB! The large perilously poised block at the start of pitch 1 has now joined its fellows on the scree! This will probably make the start a bit harder, if not impossible.
First ascent: (14/06/2003) SJH Reid, J Campbell (AL),
The following eliminate makes a good alternative start to all the routes which share the first pitch of Malediction Direct. Start as for Malediction Direct.
(4b). Scramble up grass to the left of the broken rib of Malediction Direct for 10m to a smooth slab on the left side of the rib. Climb the slab to two stacked blocks and finish directly up the slim groove above.
First ascent: (07/11/2003) SJH Reid, C King
"SJH Reid, C King, 7th November 2003 Definitely done before - but worth recording. " Anonymous 16/04/2008 06:05:45
An eliminate starting left of Malediction at a recess with an overhang split by a crack. Either scramble up to the base of the recess, or do the first pitch of Malediction and traverse left.
(5a) Climb up first on the left of the recess, then on the right. Pull over directly on to the steep buttress and continue directly to the top, deviating neither left nor right.
First ascent: (02/05/1998) Bob Bennett, Maggie White
1 24m Climb the rib of Malediction Direct.
2 25m (4c). Climb directly up for approximately 3m to the right side of the pillar, then traverse left onto the front of the pillar and climb this direct, Belay on the left as for Malediction Direct.
First ascent: (30/08/1998) Paul C Bennett, Roger Whittle
"Each Peach is fairly easy VS (4c just) not HVS (5a) as in the guide - worth a star though (SR). " Anonymous 16/04/2008 06:10:18
"The Skyline Rib is hard for the grade and worth a star." Anonymous 16/04/2008 06:11:30
"Thought this an excellent adventure but a bit spicy for MVS and recommend the full VS grade and an upgrade of pitch 2 to 4c. We thought the mossy slab on pitch three was very unappetising and chose to remain below the overlap on cleaner rock all the way to the belay on Thomas. This could be mentioned as an alternative (no grade change) with the proviso that the second would have 20 ft of climbing to do in a serious unprotected position after the last piece of gear is removed (though I didn’t think the last bit of the mossy slab looked much different in that respect!). We also noted that both pitch 1 and 2 are very difficult for communications.Also noted that the crux of the first pitch (given 4a) was while you are on the start of The Leaf (V Diff!!)" Roger Wilkinson 25/09/2012 10:16:27
(4a). From the stance at the foot of Pitch 3 of Nameless, traverse diagonally leftwards to a large poised block on the arete and surmount this to a slab which is climbed rightwards to an arete. Climb the arete on its left side and the easier rib above to a small roof. Pull directly over this and go up leftwards to a stance.
Probably done before.
First ascent: (07/11/2003) SJH Reid, C King,
"A worthwhile variation on Nameless. Puts up the overall grade to Severe." Peter Latimer 14/05/2009 11:27:52
"Marilyn Pitch 4 talks of a large diagonal break, but it is actually a large ramp." Anonymous 16/04/2008 06:20:10
(5a). Climb the wall left of Digitation (left of the corner of Vegetation) direct. From the corner step left onto the face and climb to a break/small overlap (shallow Friend), then direct to a big ledge. Finish up another route.
Note - The route was not cleaned before been climbed (big mistake!). Will be cleaned soon. Nice climbing when clean!
First ascent: (03/07/1999) Dave Douglas, Jon Kerr, Mark Saddler
The following route was omitted from the guide - the name gives a clue to it's quality!
Start in the corner left of Digitation.
1 40m (4a) Climb the corner to the overlap, pull out left and climb leftwards, passing to the right of a bulge, then climb over a split perched block on the left edge. Follow the mossy slab direct to Oak Tree Terrace.
2 10m (4c) 2m left of the holly is a steep crack. Climb this then pull up right to a good ledge. Climb the steep mossy corner above, finishing right, at the top of Digitation.
First ascent: (11/06/1978) WE Pattison, S Yearsly, J Williams
(4c). The normally disgustingly slimy, wet and unattractive wall immediately left of Digitation is climbed direct to the big oak tree. A couple of neat moves at about 6 metres constitute the crux. Protection is adequate, the rock solid, and it is totally independent of Digitation. It would clean up nicely with traffic but is probably only doable in a drought.
First ascent: (19/04/2003) Rick Gordon, G Dearlove
"Could be the same as Vegetation 1978? " Anonymous 16/04/2008 06:25:25
(5c). From the oak tree on Oak Tree Slab/Digitation, drop down about 7 metres to a heavily moss-covered boulder. There is a hole (about Friend 2 size ) at face height in the wall. Levitate with difficulty to a black jug at about 4 metres, pull left on small holds into a vague green groove, and ascend to a junction with Logan Stone Route, and a rest. Continue up to bulging rock and surmount the overhang/bulge by a breach on the left (Friend 3 or 3.5). Pull up and right to finish on flatties. All a bit friable, pumpy and most entertaining!!!
First ascent: (25/05/2003) Rick Gordon, Gordon Hutchinson
Climb to the overlap on Digitation and instead of pulling over leftwards, pull over rightwards and climb straight up the left side of the bulge to the belay. Bold climbing.
First ascent: (16/06/2010) Paul C Bennett, Roy Barr
"I did this accidentally in 2006 by simply going the wrong way on Digitation and I'm pretty sure I wasn't the first. I think it's probably worth recording as a variation (rather than a new route). " Cath Sullivan 04/05/2011 12:58:46
"Agitation (MVS in the guide) as one climber said "Nothing much Mild about that!". Probably deserves VS 4c, 4c with bold climbing on both pitches. " Anonymous 16/04/2008 06:28:00
"I added an alternative start which avoids the large grass ledge in May 1994. Start as for the original but, instead of going left, continue up the corner then step right and up to a ledge. Surmount a bulge on the left and traverse lefttwards to below the long narrow overlap. W.E Pattisonn (solo) May 1994 " Bill Pattison 30/08/2008 13:36:58 Voted: *
A third pitch to Digitation/Agitation which may have been done before, but shows no signs of traffic.
3 12m 4a. Step up from the belay (end pitch 2) into a grassy niche and climb onto the square block on the left. Continue up the short wall to a grassy ledge. Step left and finish up the clean right wall of the mossy V-groove/corner. Good rock and protection - all better than it looks from below.
First ascent: (23/09/2012) Roger Wilkinson, Adrian Perkin
* 66m VS
Start one metre right of Agitation at a recessed slab below a small overlap.
1 48m. Climb up to the overlap pull over on positive holds passing the quartzy fish bones. Move up rightwards pass the second overlap and follow the right hand edge of the crag to the oak tree.
2 18m. Climb the cracked rib on the right end of the grey wall to a large grassed ledge. Finish up the fine wall above.
Pitch 2 added by Mike Hope and Martin Scrowston 8/05/2010.
First ascent: (05/05/2010) Martin Scrowston, Paul C Bennett
"A good climb particularly the first pitch which is almost as good as Digitation. VS 4c grade" Bob Bennett 27/02/2013 22:06:45 Voted: *
The following routes are on a short impressively overhanging right-angled wall at the very top right hand end of the main crag. The best approach is up the path between the East Buttress and the Far East Buttress; the wall is on the left at the top of the path. Good pumpy challenges on compact rock. Routes described from left to right.
(5c). Climb the central corner crack to gain the ramp above. Up this rightwards or finish direct. Good gear, good holds, but can you get on the ramp?
First ascent: (13/09/1999) J Daly (unseconded),
(6a). Climbs the impressive overhanging layback crack just left of the central corner of Action Man.
First ascent: (24/01/1998) J Daly, D Geere,
The next route starts 5 metres right of Action Man where a 2.5 metre high triangular spike lies compacted against the face. A fine pitch for the connoisseur of impending rock.
(6a). Climb the spike and awkwardly gain the diagonal crackline above (peg and small rocks), hand traverse it rightwards to a jug on the arete, then finish directly above.
First ascent: (29/04/2000) J Daly
"NB:- A route Hidden Razor was claimed in this vicinity, but the description and length bear no resemblance to the routes on this wall. As both Flashpoint and Space Cowboy required some essential cleaning to reveal crucial holds and protection prior to their ascents, neither route could have been climbed before. " Anonymous 07/07/2008 14:44:43
(6a). At the top of the gully is a short overhanging outcrop. Start in obvious first wide crack, then come across diagonal flakes to make long move on the top of ramp. Finish direct.
First ascent: (27/07/1997) Tony Simpson, Andy Chapman
"Roger Wilkinson notes: Paradise (VS 4c): overgraded. At most, MVS 4b, I wouldn’t quibble at HS, and certainly nowhere near the middle of the VS graded list. Harder than Shark’s Fin Scoop? You must be joking. It is nowhere near as hard as Digitation or Agitation. (The latter is solid VS, by the way, and not MVS). Gear is a bit spaced on Paradise I suppose, so MVS is probably right. Another comment: Paradise overgraded at VS 4c: an easy HS 4a is more like it. Good climb though. " Anonymous 16/04/2008 06:37:07
Climb the steep crack direct to a heathery finish (VS 4c/5a).
First ascent: (29/07/2000) Paul C Bennett (solo),
* 18m VS
Good climbing taking the steep wall right of Paradise and left of Parallel, with adequate protection.
Climb the first pitch of Parallel or traverse in from the right. Climb the wall just right of the flake and just left of Parallel direct to the top.
First ascent: (18/03/2011) Paul C Bennett, Martin Scrowston
"On photo.. A is Nirvana B is Parallel" Paul C Bennett 06/04/2011 17:15:32
"Grade & quality confirmed" Dick Baker 05/05/2013 12:05:03 Voted: *
"showed no signs of ever being climbed, which is sad as the top pitch (4c, not 4b) is a little gem, being steep but on positive holds and good gear. At least one star. Overall, mid-grade VS. " Anonymous 16/04/2008 06:40:47
"Clean and climbed." Dave B 16/04/2009 09:42:55
"VS 4c Excellent climbing" Dick Baker 05/05/2013 12:11:06 Voted: *
* 30m E1
The obvious thin crack that runs down the wall right of The Furrow. Start 2 metres right of The Furrow. Ascend the steep wall to access the crack and follow this to a bulging wall. Step left to gain the large ledge of The Furrow. Move up then back right to finish up the wide crack. The bulging wall can be climbed dirct at a much harder grade.
First ascent: (27/03/2012) Paul C Bennett, Martin Scrowston
"After a second ascent (on a dry day) of this route it was agreed with the first ascentionist to amend the grade to HVS 5a. A direct finish was also climbed to give a fine sustained line at E1 5b. First ascent (22/5/12) Mike Hope. Martin Scrowston" Martin Scrowston 23/05/2012 20:34:17
"Nice steep climbing on good rock, worth a star. The Direct finish is still only HVS 5a though" Nick Kekus 07/05/2013 21:00:12 Voted: *
"Nice steep climbing on good rock, worth a star. The Direct finish is still only HVS 5a though" Nick Kekus 07/05/2013 21:05:10
** 35m HVS
An excellent pitch, giving sustained, but well protected climbing and complimenting the two other routes (The Furrow and The Plough) on this part of the buttress. It starts 2 metres left of The Furrow at the lowest point of the buttress and follows the left-bounding arete of the buttress.
(5a). Step right onto the blocky arete and follow the crest to a small heather ledge at 25 metres. Climb the vertical crack on the right and make a bold series of moves (crux) to gain the horzontal crack at foot level. Traverse delicately left for 2 metres to a short undercut crack and follow this to the top.
First ascent: (05/08/2011) Martin Scrowston, Jim Loxham, Paul C Bennet
"Paul C Bennett !!" Paul C Bennett 15/08/2011 10:42:56
"Grade & quality confirmed" Dick Baker 05/05/2013 12:02:46 Voted: **
* 30m VS
|Wallowbarrow, Far East Buttress: A. Man of the Plough, B. The Furrow, C. The Plough, C1. Alternative Start, D. Ploughman's Lunch.|
A good pitch that climbs the right side of the mossy wall. Start one metre right of The Plough at the top of the grassy ledge.
Awkward moves up a short pillar lead to the wall above. Climb this directly on good holds to a large ledge. Using the large jammed flake, make some exciting moves to reach the top.
First ascent: (31/08/2011) Paul C Bennett, Martin Scrowston
"Grade & Quality Confirmed" Dick Baker 05/05/2013 12:06:50 Voted: *
"Shark’s Fin Scoop: this is a chop route! It is virtually a solo – there is one No 2 Friend placement at half height, behind a projecting tooth of doubtful rock. The crux is well above this and is at least 5a. I stepped into a groove around the arête to avoid it, while my second (who leads HVS competently) just managed the direct on the top rope. And what joker placed it at the bottom of the VS graded list? Heresy – would benefit from a couple of bolts! (forget I said that). Another comment: Shark's Fin Scoop: probably more like E1 (5a). " Anonymous 16/04/2008 06:42:04
"A serious pitch that could possibly merit HVS to reflect the ground fall potential from the crux. It should, however, be obvious from the ground that there's no prospect of gear higher up in the scoop, and the guide does describe it - albeit disingenuously - as an "exciting sojourn" where "protection is limited"!" Peter Metcalfe 19/09/2011 23:37:54 Voted: *
* 25m VS
Star about 6m right of the Plough and imediately right of the dry stone wall.
A pleasing and technical pitch. Climb the corner and arete above to a ledge. Move left onto the next arete via a hidden side hold and climb directly to the top.
First ascent: (19/03/2012) Martin Scrowston Jim Loxham Paul C Bennet
"Grade & quality confirmed" Dick Baker 05/05/2013 12:08:31 Voted: *