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100 metres right of and just below the level of Long Crag is a red wall, with an overlap at its right-hand end. The climbs here are dirty with some alarmingly loose flakes. Crescent Wall (HS, 1975) climbs
the centre of the wall and over the roof via a crack. Crescent Crack (S, 1975) climbs the corner crack on the right starting behind the huge flake. Crescent Ridge (VD, 1975) takes the dirty V-groove
right of the overlap.
This crag lies on the right-hand side of the open scree slope right of Crescent Wall at about the same level as and left of Witch Buttress. The crag, which has a steep left side and slabby face, is unattractive and receives few visits, even from the locals. The climbs are briefly described as follows with the best reference point being the shattered groove of Jamie about 15 metres up from the bottom left-hand toe of the crag.
Jim's Wall (VS (5a), 1986) climbs the steep wall and groove just left of Jamie to finish up the rib on the left. Jamie (VS (4c), 1973) up over broken blocks and climb the groove either finishing out left over steep loose ground or straight up the groove via the slightly easier Direct Finish (VS (4c), 1986). Tramline (VS (4c,4b) 1973) climbs the broken rock starting at a detached block left of the toe of the buttress followed by a crack on the left to finish up a wall and V-groove. Slab and Groove (MVS (4a,4a,), 1974) climb the slab and groove just right of Tramline to below an obvious groove which is followed, trending right, to the top. Scorpion (VS (4a,4b), 1973) start just left of an obvious crack in the front of the buttress. Climb the wall above a recess, then go up and left to a sentry box (poor protection). The steep rock on the right leads to the top. Prickle (MVS (-,4a), 1973) start 3 metres right of Scorpion. Climb the corner and wall above moving left into a groove. An awkward move leads up into an easier groove. Finish to the right.
|Grade: E4+||Route Length: ?||First Ascent: ?||Comments: 1|
A large and uninviting recessed slab about 60 metres below and right of the start of Witch. Approach as for Witch Buttress but take an ascending traverse right at a holly tree round to the bottom of the slab. The climbs in this area are generally of poor quality and are
briefly described as follows. The arete on the left of the slab can be climbed at Difficult standard. Left-Hand Route (S, 1974), climb the left corner crack with a short section on the right slab at half height (the best route available). Central Line (VD, 1974), the centre of the
slab. J.C.B. G.T. (MS, 1974), the name says it all. Climb the slab and corner on the right of Central Line. Short and Brutish (S, 1974),as forJCB GT but trending rights. Dunn's Delight (S 1974), the rib, V chimney and ramp right of Short and Brutish
Approach as for Witch Buttress to the small buttress below Moss Slab, then follow a sheep track, crossing the base of White Band Ghyll, then slant up left to the central scree gully (20 mins). Or descend a gully from Lakeland Pioneers.
A complex area of broken crags situated high up on the steep broken fellside. The best climbing is on the clean upper buttress which lies directly above a terrace that separates the Upper and Lower Buttresses and is easily identified from the road. The easiest access to the climbs in this area is from above by abseil down onto the terrace.
From the top of the Lakeland Pioneers scree gully continue east along a sheep track for about 1/2 km crossing the top of Forked Gully and Rowan Tree Gully until a line of small cairns leads down rightwards over broken rocks to a peg and nut abseil point (approximately 40 minutes from the road).
The terrace can also be reached from below by climbing Central Face-Lower Climb on the lower buttress but this is not recommended.
To reach the climbs in the vicinity of Long Climb, Forked Gully and Toby traverse right from the base of White Band Ghyll over broken rocks then across a wide scree gully followed by more broken rocks
to the bottom of the first big gully - Forked Gully. Unfortunately the quality of the climbing does not really justify the tedious approach.The buttress right of Forked Gully is easily accessible from here. The left fork of Forked Gully can be used as a descent, whilst the right edge of its right-hand fork is climbed by Quirk.
The next buttress right of Rowan Tree Gully is split by a terrace into the Upper and Lower Buttresses.
The Lower Buttress routes are of poor quality being both dirty and broken and at best provide an alternative access to the terrace and the Upper Buttress. Approach from below.
About 30 metres right and below the level of the grass bay marking the start of Bright Interval is a pinnacle, conspicuous by its relative cleanliness, this is Greendale Needle. The climbing in this area is
generally poor and unrewarding, the only route of any real interest being the Needle itself. Approach directly from below up the broken fellside to join an obvious grassy rake running up right. Follow the
ramp to the base of the Needle (30 min).
|Grade: HVS||Route Length: 23m||First Ascent: 16/08/2013||Comments: 0|