
Anonymous
04/05/2008 23:01:46
Trevor Langhorne offers the following observations and suggestions: The rock is a geologist's dream,...
Home >> Rock Climbing >> Borrowdale >> Doves' Nest Slabs
Page: 285 Alt: N/A GR: 254 114 Direction: N/A
These smallish slabs lie high above and right of Doves' Nest Crag . Although short, the rock is excellent.
Due to the number of new routes done recently in this area, for the sake of clarification all routes are described, including those in the current guide - first ascent details are not supplied for the latter.
Forty-five metres below Blue Circle Buttress a huge pointed boulder sits in the scree. A few metres away stands a small buttress with a square-cut roof at 5 metres.
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Echo Beach | |||
| Grade: VS | Route Length: 9m | First Ascent: 02/02/2006 | Comments: 0 | |
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Camber Slab | |||
| Grade: HVS | Route Length: 14m | First Ascent: 16/10/2006 | Comments: 0 | |
This lies below Concrete Slab
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The Badger Parade | |||
| Grade: MVS | Route Length: 20m | First Ascent: ? | Comments: 0 | |
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Red Square | |||
| Grade: VS | Route Length: 28m | First Ascent: 16/10/2006 | Comments: 0 | |
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Precarious Block | |||
| Grade: MVS | Route Length: 25m | First Ascent: ? | Comments: 0 | |
The buttress between Concrete Slab and Blue Circle Buttress is, in the main, too infected by gangway/terraces to offer continuous climbing. However, a slabby facet at the left end of the lower tier is worthwhile.
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Thin End | |||
| Grade: S | Route Length: 9m | First Ascent: 18/02/2006 | Comments: 0 | |
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In Trutina | |||
| Grade: VS | Route Length: 11m | First Ascent: 10/04/2006 | Comments: 0 | |
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Mordent in A | |||
| Grade: VS | Route Length: 10m | First Ascent: 30/07/2007 | Comments: 1 | |
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Vox Trot | |||
| Grade: VS | Route Length: 10m | First Ascent: 30/07/2007 | Comments: 0 | |
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Twist | |||
| Grade: MS | Route Length: 6m | First Ascent: 30/07/2007 | Comments: 0 | |
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Yakka | |||
| Grade: HS | Route Length: 12m | First Ascent: ? | Comments: 0 | |
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Jackson Pollock No 5 | |||
| Grade: S | Route Length: 10m | First Ascent: ? | Comments: 0 | |
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Pueblo Rib | |||
| Grade: HS | Route Length: 10m | First Ascent: 30/07/2007 | Comments: 0 | |
(254 114)
This is reached by scrambling northwards from the other slabs to a little bay. The routes are 10 metres long.
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Silent Partner | |||
| Grade: HS | Route Length: 10m | First Ascent: ? | Comments: 1 | |
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Phlegmenko | |||
| Grade: HS | Route Length: 10m | First Ascent: 19/04/2006 | Comments: 1 | |
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Seam Stress | |||
| Grade: HVS | Route Length: 10m | First Ascent: 14/10/2006 | Comments: 0 | |
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Same Stress | |||
| Grade: HVS | Route Length: 10m | First Ascent: 14/10/2006 | Comments: 0 | |
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Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Trowels | |||
| Grade: S | Route Length: 10m | First Ascent: ? | Comments: 0 | |
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Tantle Eyes | |||
| Grade: HS | Route Length: 10m | First Ascent: 05/05/2006 | Comments: 2 | |
Stucco Slab
Forty metres above Concrete Slab is yet another slabby buttress; characterized this time by a curving overlap and a slanting oblong-shaped block at its base.
Grades seemed OK for: In Trutina, Thin End, Jackson Pollock #5, Lock Stock etc (good line), Calypso, Stucco Slab, Arctex`Amble (poor route in my view).
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Artex Amble | |||
| Grade: S | Route Length: 14m | First Ascent: 02/02/2006 | Comments: 0 | |
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Twinkletoes | |||
| Grade: MVS | Route Length: 11m | First Ascent: 29/04/2006 | Comments: 1 | |
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Calypso | |||
| Grade: S | Route Length: 11m | First Ascent: 10/04/2006 | Comments: 0 | |
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Polka Dot | |||
| Grade: HVS | Route Length: 11m | First Ascent: 19/07/2007 | Comments: 0 | |
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Stucco Slab | |||
| Grade: S | Route Length: 10m | First Ascent: 02/02/2006 | Comments: 0 | |
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Nippy Sweeties | |||
| Grade: MVS | Route Length: 14m | First Ascent: 01/03/2006 | Comments: 1 | |