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Expect loose rock

Published: 24/02/2010

This winter has seen the longest period of very cold weather for many years.  The effects of water freezing and expanding in small cracks is likely to have made a lot of rock loose and unreliable.  All climbers should take great care, especially during an ascent early in the warmer weather when the route may not have been climbed for several frozen months.

A belay ledge collapsed on Dedication - Lower Falcon - last year, following a much milder winter.

This may affect gear placements as well as the holds themselves.

This warning was given at a recent BMC Yorkshire Area meeting.

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