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With
the availability of climbing walls many people, including youngsters,
now start on the indoor walls and get used to top roping and clipping
the bolts. Sports climbs are often the first contact with crags and
the traditional easier routes are bypassed for relatively more technically
hard bolted climbs.
The easier
routes are still there however to be enjoyed in their own right and
also used as an introduction to the intricacies of placing gear, long
run out and finding ones way without the bolts to follow.
The follow
list has been prompted by a number of requests on the message board
for details of easier crags - so here it is.
EASTERN
CRAGS
LONGSLEDALE
Buckbarrow
Crag (GR 483 073)
Out of vogue with the modern hard rock scene but a useful mountain
crag with a number of separate buttress with routes covering a wide
span of grades. Waterfall Buttress (D); Dandle Buttress (D) and Sadgill
Wall (MS) give a good selection. Also for a hot sunny day the stream,
up the valley, below the crag, gives a pleasant becking trip (the
main waterfall should be avoided on the true right (south) side. The
tarmac road stops about 2 km from the crag. A track however leads
up the valley and gives an easy walk or a vehicle (or mountain bike)
can be used to get nearer to the crag.
SWINDALE
Gouther
Crag (GR 515 127)
Delightful valley on the eastern side of the Lakes. Routes recommended
- Truss Buttress (VD), Foreleg Crack (D) and Kennel Wall (MS).
ULLSWATER
Gowbarrow
- Yew Crag (GR 414 205)
Now a little neglected and signs of instability with the upper crag.
Used by the local outdoor education centres. Lower tier is useful
though somewhat polished. Permission should sought from Ullswater
OBMS for group use.
Edmund's Castle
Crag (GR 365 172)
Excellent beginners crag - interesting mountain position. Some bolt
belays in place !!
Oxford Crag
(GR 155 394)
5 minutes from the Patterdale Post Office on Arnison Crag. No more
than 4b or 15 metres - ideal for starting and soloing.
GRISEDALE
Thornhow
Crag (GR 382 154)
A scattering of crags in a useful position at the start of the valley.
Note - no parking allowed in the valley below the crag. Easy walk
up the valley road.
DOVEDALE
Gill
Crag (GR 387 119)
"Dovedale Slabs" at the opposite end of the climbing experience spectrum
to Dove Crag this is an often forgotten little gem of a place. Its
main drawback is the steep approach but with its southerly aspect
and gentle slabs, this usually quiet crag can give a delightful day
out.
THIRLMERE
Castle
Rock - South Crag (GR 322 197)
The North Crag has a formidable reputation - the South Crag is much
different. A number of routes - sometimes tricky and limited belay
points at the top !! Popular and now somewhat over-worn.
Swirl How (GR
322 163)
The Upper Crag is a short pleasant crag overlooking Thirlmere with
a number of easier routes.
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EDEN
VALLEY
These are listed
in the "North of England" guide by Stew Wilson.
The Hoff (GR
675 179)
The crag in the meadow. A conglomerate crag in a tranquil pasture setting
just north of the B6260, 2 miles west of Appleby.
Scratchmere Scar
(GR 516 379)
Located on Lazonby Fell overlooking Plumpton, on the A6. Immaculate
sandstone, in fine position, in a wooded area with views of the Lakes
fell in the distance. Permission should sort at the farm.
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BORROWDALE
Shepherds Crag
(GR 263 185)
A traditional starting place for many climbers. Now often busy especially
on the easier routes. Many classic routes - on Brown Slabs, Little Chamonix
and Jackdaw Ridge area.
Wodens Face (GR
253 167)
A very handy crag en route to the Bowder Stone. A glaciated wall with
tricky moves at the base.
Cam Crag Ridge
(GR 263 112)
Classic easy scramble ascending out of Langstrath.
Glaciated Slab
(GR 254 128)
A short slab with a number of enjoyable routes.
Doves Nest Crag
(GR 255 118)
An interesting buttress of rock, part of which is detached and gives
interesting "caving" routes. Beware - the crag has moved and its stability
is unknown.
Raven Crag (GR
248 114)
A popular mountain crag - mainly for Corvus - however there are a number
of other worthwhile,long, easy mountaineering routes. Can be done with
the rucksack and continue onto the summit of Glaramara.
Dalt Quarry (GR
250166)
Somewhere completely different. Though small this bolted quarry is now
a popular venue.
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NORTH
LAKES LIMESTONE
These are listed in
the "North of England" guide by Stew Wilson.
Headend Quarry
(GR 249 408)
An excellent little quarry with a number of easier grade routes. A fine
view from the top of the quarry, over the Solway to Scotland rewards
each ascent.
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BUTTERMERE
Grey Crag (GR
172 148)
This is a series of buttresses, just below the summit of High Stile.
Fabulous rock in a marvelous position. Well worth the long walk. Nice
to climb with one's rucksack to the summit and then return over High
Crag !
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WASDALE
Great Gable
Traditional mountain climbs on the Napes area on the south side of Great
Gable. Many classic ridges and the famous Napes Needle.
Scafell
The Scafell group contains some of the best crags in the Lakes !! -
fabulous easier routes include Moss Ghyll (S); Grooved Arete (VD);
Moss Ghyll Groove (HS); Jones Route (HS) and many more. They are mountain
routes - not road side crags - and have a serious feel to those used
to single pitch, roadside routes.
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DUDDON
VALLEY
Wallowbarrow
Crag (GR 222 967)
A splendid valley crag providing a selection of routes for most tastes.
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DOW
CRAG
Dow Crag (GR
264 977)
The more amiable of the major mountain crags in the Lakes. Again big
routes give a serious feel to the place. Popular crag - nice to top
out on the summit. Some of the routes - Arete, Chimney and Crack (MS);
Giant Crawl (D) ; C Ordinary (D)
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LANGDALE
Scout Crag (GR 300
068)
Popular crag split into three crags. The middle crag is definitely not
for the novice !! The lower crag is getting overused and now has restricted
group during the lambing season. The upper crag has some longish routes
to give a multi-pitch feel. The writer is biased having done his first
climb here some !! years ago.
Tarn Crag (GR
290 073)
Often neglected crag but just to the right of the track leading up to
Pavey Ark. Excellent clean rock in a mountain setting.
Raven Crag (GR
284 063)
A very accessible crag just above the ODG. Routes of all (up to E7)
available to satisfy all abilities. Parking can be a problem in the
ODG car park.
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SOUTH
LAKES
These are listed in
"Lancashire Guide"
Lindale Slabs
(GR 418 817)
Clean open slab used by local outdoor centres. Permission must first
be sort from Castle Head Field Centre (Telephone 01539 534300)
Whitestone Crag
(GR 397 849)
A small but pleasant crag just above the A590 gives a number of good
routes
Hoad Slab (GR
296 790)
Clearly seen above the A590 just north of Ulverston - clean slate slabs
give a popular practice ground.
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