FRCC - Rock Climbing

ENCHAINMENTS


The idea of likely climbs together has been around for many years - these give some very special days where moving fast over rock can yield an impressive number of routes. Throughout the world there have been some spectacular links such as:

  • Croz Spur, North Face of Matterhorn and North of the Eiger - helicopter link
  • Dru Direct and South Face of Aiguille de Fou - parapente link
  • Northwest Face of Half Dome (in the morning) and The Nose (in the afternoon) - parapente link

Sadly in the Lakes we do not have routes of the above scale however the following enchainements will give some ideas. If you know of any further ideas please send them on to either Ron Kenyan, 30 Wordsworth Street, Penrith or on email ron@saintacc.u-net.com

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CLASSIC ROCK ROUTES

The easier routes give much scope for links - the "Classic Rock" book compiled by Ken Wilson gives a long, hard day - not as yet done completely on foot
The routes:
Murray's Route (Dow), Bracket and Slab, Ash Tree Slab and 'C' Route (Gimmer), Bowfell Buttress (Bowfell), Moss Ghyll Groove and Jones's Direct from Lords Rake (Scafell), Tophet Wall, Napes Needle and Needle Ridge (Great Gable), New West Climb amd Rib and Slab (Pillar), Gillercombe Buttress (Gillercombe), Troutdale Pinnacle (Black Crag) and Little Chamonix (Shepherds Crag)

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LANGDALE DAY OUT

A combination routes on crags round the valley - the following are suggestions:

Diff/Sev Routes:
The Slab (Lower Scout), Route 1 (Upper Scout), Hollin Groove (Lower White Ghyll), The Slabs (Upper White Ghyll), Route 2 (Tarn Crag), Rake End Chimney (Pavey Ark), Ash Tree Slabs and C Route (Gimmer), Bowfell Buttress (Bowfell), The Neckband (Neckband)

VS Routes:
Slip Knot (White Ghyll), Rake End Wall (Pavey Ark), NW Arete and F Route (Gimmer), Bilberry Buttress (Raven Crag)

HVS/E1 Routes:
Laugh Not (White Ghyll), Arcturus and Golden Slipper (Pavey Ark), Intern and Kipling Groove (Gimmer), Sword of Damocles (Bowfell), Razor Crack (Neckband)

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LIVESEY'S LANGDALE CIRCUIT

Langdale lends its self to linking crags and routes. Pete Livesey and Jill Lawrence linked the following (way back in 1975) - no doubt similar days out have followed -
The routes:
Aragorn, Gandalf Groove, Gillette Direct and Razor Crack (Neckband), Sword of Damocles and Bowfell Buttress Eliminate - Direct (Bowfell) and Gimmer String, Intern, NW Arete and The Crack (Gimmer)

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DOLPHIN ROUTES

Arthur Dolphin's tally of new routes in his, sadly curtailed, life was impressive. The is suggested series - start either at Wasdale or bivi in site on Eskdale side of Mickledore (spring adjacent)
The routes:
Hells Groove, Treaspasser Groove, Sword of Damocles, Kipling Groove (Deer Bield Buttress was to have included but it has fallen down !) and if you fancy the extension - Communist Convert

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EASTERN CRAG RECOMMENDED VS's

Before the days of starring routes in the guides the FRCC guides recommended a number of routes of a particular grade. The Eastern Crags guide is based around the Helvellyn range and the recommended VS's in the 1969 guide straddled this range and give a classic day out - a bivi can be had in the Priests Hole, on Dove Crag, which gives a good starting point.
The routes:
Hangover (Dove Crag), Hrothgar (Scrubby), The Amphitheatre (Hutaple), Sobrenada (Eagle, Grisedale), Communist Convert (Raven, Thirlmere) and Overhanging Bastion (Castle Rock)

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BORROWDALE DAY OUT

Borrowdale lends itself well to linking crags and routes - pick your grade and away you go:

UP TO SEVERE
The routes:
Little Chamonix (Shepherds), Troutdale Pinnacle (Black Crag), Bowderstone Pinnacle (Bowderstone Crag), Cam Crag Ridge (Cam Crag), Corvus (Raven, Combe Ghyll), Gillercombe Buttress (Gillercombe)

VS/HVS
The routes:
Hedera Groove (Falcon), The Rack (Reecastle), Fools Paradise (Gowder), Adam (Shepherds), The Mortician (Black Crag), Mandrake (Quayfoot), The Reiver (Bleak How), Lakeland Cragsman (Sergeant Crag Slabs)

E1/E2
The routes:
Dedication (Falcon), Guillotine (Reecastle), The Bludgeon (Shepherds), Raindrop (Black Crag), Banzai Pipeline (Greatend), Praying Mantis (Goat Crag) and Aphasia (Sergeant Crag Slabs)

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PEASCOD'S WOMEN

Bill Peascod was one of Lakeland's great charactors and developer - born in West Cumbria he was drawn to the crags of the western Lakes and climbed many fine new routes before a period in Australia and return in the 1980's. Les Shore's articles in the 1996 FRCC Journal details a number of his routes named after women - an additional one gives a total of five for a fine day out -
The routes:
Eve (Shepherds Crag), Jezebel (Miners Crag), Cleopatra (Buckstone How), Salome (Round How) and Delilah (High Crag)