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O.S.Sheet 86
G.R. NY 505 452
This crag will be included in the next FRCC Eastern Crags guide (due 2008)
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EDEN VALLEY
Armathwaite
by Stewart Wilson
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FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB
of the
English Lake District |
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| This outcrop of excellent quality sandstone is properly called Coombs Crag. It is situated on the East bank of the River Eden five hundred metres upstream of the bridge at Armathwaite. Its situation in beautiful woodland on the banks of the Eden is outstanding, a factor adding charm to the the excellent climbing of all grades to be found here.It has long been recognised as a wet weather alternative to the Lakes and even in the depths of winter, can provide sheltered climbing. It faces west and so gets its fair share of sunshine (always assuming Cumbria gets its fair share!) The climbing ranges from longer, two pitch climbs to fierce bouldering. The situations are fine and thanks to a caring population of local climbers, litter and other squalid mess are unknown.
We all hope it will stay that way.
The crag is composed of Penrith Sandstone, a red, desert sandstone of Permian Age and because of its wind borne origin, cross-bedding is everywhere evident. Differential weathering of these beds and the ubiquitous ”Armathwaite Pockets” are responsible for the best of the harder routes.The pleasing thing about climbing here is however, the changing character, as one moves from section to section of the crag.
The obvious Overhanging Wall which rises out of the sandy river beach at the left end of the main crag was at one time quarried as was the rock in the alcove of Hetherington's Bay some 30 metres to the right.This has produced more square-cut holds, where a thuggish approach helps.In contrast, the Central Buttress extending rightwards from Hetherington's Bay has rock more akin to that found on the East Northumberland crags and produces ”Classic” easy and middle-grade climbs on good weathered holds.
Further right again, the Red Buttress and Final Section climbs are on softer rock using the tendon-searing omnipresent pockets and wrinkles.
On all the climbs the friction is good although not as solidly abrasive as Northumberland Sandstone or as secure. A soft rag is useful for dusting holds.
A problem that the softness of the rock and its popularity has thrown up is erosion. Bouldering out moves at the base of the crag and traversing has led to heavy wear and a return to top-roping could certainly help.
Top-roping however brings attendant problems such as grooving in the top of the crag.To avoid this long slings and careful rigging are essential. It is also recommended that groups under instruction find an alternative venue - there are plenty nearby. If group usage is unavoidable then leaders must ”do their homework” and get to know the crag thus avoiding the kind of situations where leaders blithely allow their charges to abseil down the line of splendidly delicate routes, kicking off crucial holds and smearing mud. Finally, will leaders ensure that soft shoes are worn rather than vibrams, tricounis or crampons.
On a more serious note, the greatest damage to the crag has been done by a small minority of climbers who seem to think that seemingly blank faces can be wire-brushed into submission. Such egocentric quests can only hinder the pursuit of difficulty in the succeeding generations. In any case we should set a better example to the many talented youngsters who frequent the crag and who as yet malleable may wish to ape their elders.
Finally with regard to the hardest leads at the crag: The style of the first ascent in most cases involved abseil inspection and top-rope practice prior to the lead. This should be borne in mind by anyone attempting an 'on sight' lead. In addition the protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory. Climbs that haven't been lead are graded NL.
Approaches & Access The crag is best approached from the village of Armathwaite which is reached by following the signs from the A6 at Mason's Garage(this is on the only section of dual-carriageway between Carlisle and Penrith.Both of these towns are some 10 miles from this point.The bridge crossing the Eden in Armathwaite is the focal point of the village and a few cars can be parked on the side nearest the Fox and Pheasant Inn.A squeeze stile in the parapet of the downstream side of the bridge nearest the Fox and Pheasant and a short flight of steps leads to a path which via a stile gets one under the bridge and along a good path going in a upstream direction. This path forks when one is above an impressive rapid; a natural weir where the Eden crosses the Armathwaite Dyke, a spectacular intrusion of Quartz-Dolerite.
At this point one can descend rightwards to the river and continue upstream to reach the Faces. Alternatively if the Main Cliff is your destination,continue along the left fork which goes above the crags of the Faces for a short distance before descending sharply via rocky steps to river level. As one faces the river, the Overhanging Wall is on your right whilst the Main Cliff is on your left, upstream. A good path follows the bank of the river upstream and from it, it is possible to view all parts of the crag.
The crag can also be reached by following the footpath which leads through the yard of the Fox and Pheasant Inn. This path is followed until a stile gives access to the forest road.A track on the right leads to the top of the Faces Section.To the right is the weir whilst to the left are the descent steps between Stinkhorn Buttress and the Overhanging Wall.
Coombs Crag is on Forestry Commission land but the previous owner retained the Sporting Rights and so the situation here is somewhat different to that on F.C. land. Access agreements are constantly under review and the result of much hard work and negotiation with other parties involved. It is essential that climbers observe the usual courtesies with regard to other land-users, particularly fishermen and shooters. Shooting takes place about three or four times in the season in Coombs Wood, usually on a Friday or Saturday so it is safer to stay near the crag when shoots are in progress.
The climbs are described section by section and from left to right as one faces the crag. The Faces Section is most easily reached from the weir and because of its relative independence from the rest of the crag, it will be described first. |
The Faces Section |
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Easily approached from the weir,in all but high-water conditions,by following the edge of the river upstream.An idyllic situation,some good easy climbs and some poor rock has ensured its lack of popularity.The main features of this section are two indentations or bays,the first,nearest the weir is Botany Bay whilst the second Faces Bay is remarkable for the strange and rare carvings on its walls.The carvings are of faces and a salmon,whilst high up is a beautifully executed inscription,a quotation from Isaac Walton's "Compleat Angler": "O the fisher's Gentle life etc....." Also nearby at the start of A Big Hand is an inscription of much greater antiquity, possibly Roman in origin.The carvings and the later inscriptions are almost certainly the work of William Mounsey, scholar,traveller and local gentleman of the last century. Other examples of his work can be seen at the Caves of St.Constantine at Wetheral and on the long lost Jew Stone at the source of the Eden in Mallerstang.
1. F.B.S.J. 10m V.D.
Start at the foot of the left arete of Botany Bay behind a tree. Climb the face behind the tree leaving this with some reluctance on a voyage of discovery up the rock above on good holds.
2. Boomerang 12m VS
Start at the foot of a shallow right-slanting groove directly below the obvious deep chimney of Aborigine. (4b). Climb the groove and then hand-traverse left onto the arete. Climb this to the top.
A more direct start to this arete is provided by:
3. Blank's Expression 4m VS
Start at some roots just right of F.B.S.J.
(5a).
Climb the difficult left-curving groove to join Boomerang at the arete
4. Aborigine 12m HVS 4c
Start right of Boomerang at a slightly overhanging scoop a few metres below a small cave.
(4c).
Climb to the cave then move left into the chimney. Follow this until moves right lead into the groove and the top.
The prominent twin cracks which converge some distance up the right wall of the bay are:
5. Cook's Left Hand 12m VS
(4b) .Climb the right-slanting crack to a hard move into a deep groove. Follow this to the top. A good climb.
6. Cook's Crack 12m VS
(4b). Climb the steep crack to the right of the last climb. Move left into the groove of Cook's Left Hand with difficulty and finish as for that climb
7. Cook's Apron 5m VS
(4c). Climb the centre of the face between the cracks. Worthwhile.
8. Cook's Tour 12 m NL
(5b). Climb the centre of the impressive wall to the right of Cook's Right Hand.
The next few climbs are a few metres right of Botany Bay in the smaller Faces Bay. The first route starts below a corner just left of a carved salmon:
9. Blockbuster 12m HS
(4a). Climb the steep corner past a large dubious block. Move right and into another groove.From a ledge below a roof either move right and to the top on unstable rock or safer, go to the left of the roof and climb to the top on better rock. Not an outstanding route!
A poor route called The Scroll climbs the face to the left of the fine inscription but as it uses the inscribed area it is suggested that climbers' avoid it.
10. A Big Hand 12m S
A very pleasant but dirty slab,very low in its grade but serious on account of a lack of protection. Start at the back corner of Faces Bay.
Layback up the corner passing a small 'neb' to a ledge. Climb up a short way until an obvious traverse line is followed to the right for a couple of metres. A delicate step up on poor handholds leads one to the trailing branches of a large oak. Thankfully these lead one to a leafy bower and security.
This route marks the end of any worthwhile climbing on the Faces Section. It is possible to reach the Overhanging Wall and the Main Cliff by traversing at river level upstream.This is exciting and introduces unexpected elements like deep water and lurking chub. It seems to hold a fatal attraction for well-dressed, water-loving picnickers! Be warned!
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Overhanging Wall |
This popular area, which is really the southern or upstream end of the Faces Section is best reached by returning to the weir and striking up onto the good path which runs above the Faces Section. Follow the good path in an upstream direction for perhaps 100 metres until after passing a narrow exposed section with an excellent view upriver,the path descends via some rough steps to arrive again at the riverside.The right fork of the path as one faces the river, leads in a few metres, past some easy slabs to a fine sandy beach below the Overhanging Wall. The left fork of the path goes under the Main Cliff.
The Overhanging Wall section consists of an overhanging wall of rock to the left of the prominent corner; Glenwillie Grooves.To the right of this corner is a wall bounded on its right by a nice arete.The section peters out around the corner from the arete with some pleasant slabs.
11. Kingfisher 16m VD *
Steep and satisfying and with big holds.It has provided several leaders who don't know left from right with an unexpected swim! Start to the left of the tree which is left of the sawn-off stump below the left arete of the Overhanging Wall.
Climb up to the LEFT of the tree which guards access to the open groove.An easy corner is followed by a steeper corner and the top. Tree belay.
12.Kaleidoscope Eyes 15m E1
(5b). Start from the top of the sawn stump at the left-hand end of Overhanging Wall. Move up and leftwards to a step below the steep arete.Climb the arete direct to finish on the ledge of Time and Motion Man.
13. Grey Duster 15m E1 **
An entertaining climb with a steep start.
Start 2 metres right of the sawn stump which is just right of the arete.
(6a).
Climb the centre of the bulging wall on finger-caressing edges and layaways into a very shallow groove. A good hold on the left enables the final crack to be viewed and climbed. Finish up the groove above a good ledge as for Time and Motion Man.
14. The Arete 15m E1 **
Another little gem which should guarantee hours of fun! Start one metre right of Grey Duster below an overhung rib.
(6c). Levitate up to the conspicuous little blackened pocket at 3 metres, rejoice and continue on better holds to finish directly up the upper continuation of the arete to the ledge below the finish of Time and Motion Man. Finish as for Time and Motion Man.
15. Time and Motion Man 16m E1 **
The crag's infamous "Nasty VS". A strenuous, awkward and thought-provoking climb for all would-be "VS Flashers". Start in the damp alcove just right of the undercut rib of The Arete. NB: The start of this climb has got harder since this description was written due to erosion of the beach.
(5b). Move up and leftwards with great difficulty and some contortions onto a very narrow wall under some small square-cut overhangs. Better holds lead to jugs below a little bulge guarding a fine groove. Enter the groove with some relief and exit almost immediately on its left wall to gain a good ledge. (Friend protection here). Move left and climb a slight groove to an awkward finish. It is possible to finish straight up about one metre right of the ordinary finish at another slim corner.
There are many good problems in this area, notably traverses. A particularly good traverse is to start at Kingfisher and move right to Time and Motion Man. This involves some technical fingerwork. To reverse the same is desperate. The traverse in both directions from Time And Motion Man to Glenwillie Grooves is pumpy and good for the soul. Many more sequences are left for the individual to discover.
16. The Orbit. 25m E4
A committing and serious route which girdles Overhanging Wall from bottom left to top right. Start as for Time and Motion Man.
(5c/6a). Climb into the prominent groove at 5 metres (runners can be arranged on the ledge of Time and Motion Man above left). Move out across the right wall of the groove onto ever-steepening rock until one can make an ascending traverse to the good ledge which crosses the face at two-thirds height (junction with The Exorcist). From this ledge, traverse right,moving down slightly (to protect these moves it is possible to flick a sling over a flat-topped spike above and to the right) until a hand-traverse leads down into the fine corner of Glenwillie Grooves. Finish up this.
The Exorcist (E4)
Photo: Phil Rigby |
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17. Blue Lugs 18m NL
Starts below the painted initials WT.
(5c). Climb the bulge strenuously on good holds to reach and follow the obvious line of a hairline fault. At the top overhangs move out left with difficulty and make a strenuous exit.
18. The Exorcist 18m E4 ***
This route put the "arm" in Armathwaite. An excellent line, steep and compelling on good clean rock. Starts where the Overhanging Wall abuts on the right to form the steep corner which marks the direct start of Glenwillie Grooves.
(5c). A hard pull onto a ledge leads up to a peg at 5 metres. Move out with trepidation to a pocket on the right. A sequence of strenuous and technical moves lead back left then straight up. Rising doubts as to the peg's solidity urge one upwards to a good ledge. From the sanctuary of the ledge a bulge is climbed into the top groove. It is best to exit on the left.
19. Blast Off 20m E4 *
Steep situations, indifferent protection and funny rock make this climb a very serious undertaking. The line is not as fine as that of The Exorcist. Start immediately right of The Exorcist where the Overhanging Wall meets the slab at a corner.
(6a). Ascend the pleasant corner of the Direct Start to Glenwillie Grooves for about 3 metres until the impending crack on the left wall can be climbed. From the top of the crack traverse left into a shallow niche.The bulging rock above leads to the ledge common with The Exorcist. Move up and right to a roof conspicuous by an eroded hole on its underside. Climb out steeply
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using this hole and continue steeply to better holds. Finish via a jutting prow on the left.
Warning: The rock above the ledge should be treated with suspicion. |
20. Glenwillie Grooves 18m HS 4b **
A very good climb indeed and popular.The crux is short, sharp and very safe in a fine position right at the top. Start from a tar-spattered ledge 3 metres right of the corner of Blast Off.
(4b).
Climb the wall just right of a thin crack until a good ledge is gained on the left. The slab above and right of the ledge leads delicately to a foothold next to a sheaf of saplings. Climb the wall to the left of the saplings and finish with a steep pull onto a stance below the final corner. Place a very large nut, don't forget to clip in, then spread your legs, layback and enjoy it.
Caution: The slope leading up to the tree belay needs care!
21. Glenwillie Grooves Direct 16m MVS 4b
Hardly an improvement on the normal route. The rock needs care. Start at the foot of the steep corner as for Blast Off.
(4b). Climb directly up to the small ledge and finish up the crux of Glenwillie Grooves.
To the right of Glenwillie Grooves the rock is less attractive, nevertheless one or two useful climbs exist.
22. Harry's Arete 16m E2
Start just right of the tar-spattered ledge of Glenwillie Grooves at the foot of a narrow groove.
(5b). Climb this groove and, from large footholds, swing awkwardly left onto the arete. A move around the arete leads onto an easier angled slab. Finish as for Harry's Groove.
22. Harry's Groove 16m HS
Start 4 metres right of the narrow groove of Harry's Arete at a shallow groove just left of a prominent undercut beak of rock.
(4b). Climb the groove towards a loose break in a bulge. Move over this into a heathery recess and follow this up right to a ledge. Move left along the ledge and layback the stepped corner.
The crag to the right of Harry's Groove is a pleasant wall capped by a small roof. The blunt arete which bounds this wall on the right marks the start of the next climb.
4. Smiling Faces 16m VS 4b *
(4b). Climb the blunt arete on small but good holds until a hard move enables one to step up onto a slab. Follow the slab to a ledge below a wide, bottomless crack. Follow this to the top. Strenuous.
The crag now turns a corner and loses height. The slabby rocks can be climbed almost everywhere, but a good easy line exists.
25. The Thirty-Nine Steps 13m VD *
Start 2 metres right of the arete behind a birch tree.
Climb the easy wall on good holds until a short groove leads onto a triangular ledge. Mantleshelf onto a higher bigger ledge in a fine position. The short slab to the right is ascended until steep moves up the wall above lead to a pull out at a solid tree. Satisfying.
Variation
From the triangular ledge it is possible to climb the rib on the right to finish at the same place. Only slightly harder.
The descent steps now divide the crag. Beyond this lies the Main Cliff. This is the main escarpment of the crags. It extends for about 200m above the riverside path and is divided into six separate sections. The six sections described from left to right are: Stinkhorn Buttress, Hetherington's Bay, Central Buttress, Dome Slab, Red Buttress, and The Final Section.
The first section is Stinkhorn Buttress which is the first buttress of rock across the descent steps from Overhanging Wall. |
The Main Cliff - Stinkhorn Buttress |
A few metres upstream of Overhanging Wall and a short scramble up an easy rake leads to a grassy ledge below the obvious wide crack at the right-hand end of this steep and generally featureless face. All of the climbs start below this crack which is the line of the original climb; Stinkhorn.
26. Herbie 10m VS
(4c).
Climb the bulge just left of the crack of Stinkhorn until a comforting flake can be followed leftwards to a gap. The continuation is steeper and eventually it is easier to move right to finish at a tree.
27. Meat Is Murder 10m NL
A steep climb which avoids the real issue of the prominent arete.
(5c).
Climb the steep crack of Stinkhorn until holds on the left wall can be used.Pull onto the arete to a sharp flake.Climb the rippled bulge above the flake and move up and left around the corner and gain a ledge------?????
28. Astral Wall 10m NL
This steep climb follows the line of very fine cracks up the face to the right of the arete.
(5c). Climb the crack as for Stinkhorn, then embark onto the steep wall and climb it about 1-1.5 m right of the arete.
29. Stinkhorn 10m S
Phalls short of its initial promise!
Climb the obvious bulging crack to a good ledge. The continuation is disappointing.
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The Main Cliff - Hetherington's Bay |
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This popular little hollow lies at the foot of the crag just above the riverside path. It is really the left hand side of the large and complex Central Buttress. The back of the Bay has a steep corner with an undercut left-slanting slab above. The right-hand wall is vertical and high above is the thin overhanging Cally Crack which finishes on a spacious ledge known as Heugh Chare.
Hetherington's Bay is a popular bouldering area with reasonable landings. There are particularly good strenuous traverses across the lower walls of the Bay, whilst interesting problems find their way through the slim grooves to the left of the corner. The steep wall right of the corner has been climbed but is hardly a boulder problem, whilst the right-slanting arete on the extreme right is good but with an awkward finish.
30. Petit Mal 10m VD
Start at the left-hand end of the Bay, about one metre left of the flat rock ledge bearing shot holes.
Climb the groove by the line of least resistance to gain a flake. Follow this to gain a good ledge. Tree belay.
31. Nosescratcher 16m HS
A serious climb on doubtful rock. Care is needed to protect the second. Start at a low ledge bearing shot hole opposite a birch tree.
Climb onto this ledge and step up and right onto the slab. Climb up and right across the slab to a blunt arete. Follow this on poor rock to a ledge. Belay up and left at a crack. Friends adviseable or move further left to trees. Scramble off down to the left below Stinkhorn.
32 Joe Soap's Corner 16m VS 4b
A good line but not a brilliant climb on account of poor rock.
Starts in the corner of the Bay. Climb straight up the corner which is pleasant. The left-slanting line above is followed with care to reach the ledge and belays as for Nosescratcher.
33. Cally Crack 12m E3 *
A very steep climb,intimidating and bold.
Start in the corner of the Bay.
(5b/c). Climb Joe Soap's until moves can be made out right to the foot of the crack. Climb the wall just right of the crack or the crack itself.
33a. Indian's Revenge NL
This very steep and strenuous climb provides an alternative finish to the upper part of Cally Crack.
(6b). Climb the latter until the wall on the left of the crack can be climbed.
34. Jeff's Wall 8m E3 *
(6a/b). Climb the centre of the steep wall right of the corner. A variety of finishes exist.
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The Main Cliff - Central Buttress |
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This is the complex buttress nearest the riverside path. It is about 27 metres high and is bounded on the left by the overhanging arete which forms the right edge of Hetherington's Bay. The right-hand boundary of Central Buttress is a steep grassy gully guarded by a short wall just left of the very impressive overhanging arete; Erection Arete. Central Buttress has a long grassy ledge at 13m with a big oak on the right. Above the oak is the big,juggy slab of Bullgine Run. Above the left-hand end of the long ledge and 5m higher is another comfortable ledge; Heugh Chare,again having good tree belays and the start of The Schnuck. Further right, Central Buttress becomes shorter but three well-defined grooves provide some excellent climbs including the classic Flasherman. Central Buttress provides some excellent climbing in the lower and middle grades and it is hoped that more use will see these revert to their former pristine condition.
Descents:The climbs on Central Buttress end at a narrow path, slippery when wet. This path can be followed above Stinkhorn Buttress and then down a steep grassy slope to meet the main path above the descent steps leading to the Overhanging Wall. Alternatively follow the narrow path in an upstream direction until the steep earthy gully to the south of Domed Slab can be descended.
35. Princess Anne's New Ring 26m S
Quite a good climb.The first pitch is the crux. Start at the foot of the little slab below the overhanging arete of Hetherington's Bay.
1 13m. Climb the three metre slab then move diagonally leftwards above the overhanging arete on shelving rock to a point below the oak tree on Heugh Chare Ledge above. From here, bear right until the wall on the left can be climbed to the oak. Belay.
2 13m. Climb the corner at the back of the ledge to a deep groove. Swing out left to a good ledge. The corner above leads to the finish.
36.The Monkeyhanger 35m HVS **
An excellent climb, particularly serious on the top pitch which is in a fine position. The finish can be dirty! Start as for Princess Anne's at the foot of the little slab below the problem arete on the right edge of Hetherington's Bay.
1 16m (4a). Climb the slab rightwards for 3 metres, then move right onto a wall of good rock by a small beech. Climb past this to the left end of the long grassy ledge. Climb the steep wide crack on fantastic holds to a tree belay on the Heugh Chare Ledge.
2 19m (4c). Climb the short overhanging wall at the back of the ledge to gain a shelf. Traverse right for about 4 metres and step up to another ledge. Some indifferent protection can be arranged before stepping up and right in a very exposed position onto the front of the upper wall. The slab above is awkward to finish. Lichen can be a problem in damp conditions!
37. The Schnuck 14m VS
This provides a good steep alternative last pitch to either Princess Anne's or The Monkeyhanger.
(4c).
Start on Heugh Chare and climb the steep wall to gain the flat shelf as for The Monkeyhanger. The steep is now climbed on flat holds.The ensuing narrow groove leads to a small ledge on the left and a tree belay above.
37a. Savage Simian 35m HVS
An exciting line starting below the flaked arête left of Janet of the Apes, and running left to right across the overhanging roof above the Bullgine Run. Protection is reasonable (for Armathwaite) where it matters, but the crux traverse requires a bold approach by both leader and second.
1 8m. Starting 6 metres right of Hetherington's Bay at the base of a tree, climb directly up to a small beech left of the multi-trunked oak.
2 27m (5a). Climb the arête directly behind the beech on good but suspect holds (no protection), exiting right to gain the broken block (sling runner). Move leftwards off the block to gain good holds on the overhanging wall (as for Janet of the Apes). Pull over onto a ledge and move out rightwards (Friend) on small footholds across the top of the roof of Bullgine Run. Gain a spike (crux) and pull into the bird-limed V-groove (Friend). Continue for 3 metres before stepping down onto a smooth block. Left-slanting flakes lead to easier ground and a slightly awkward heathery finish.
Andy Little, Tony Cornish, 9th December 2004
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37b. Janet of the Apes 30m VS+
A bold and exciting elimintae line between the Monkeyhanger and the Bulgine Run. Improves dramatically on Pitch 2. Start directly below the multi-stemmed oak that marks the start of the Bulgine Run.
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1 10m. Climb up the ledges of the greasy slab using small vertical veins running leftwards to belay on the large oak.
2 20m (4c). Climb leftwards to the triangular recess which is exited on the left by exciting moves on good holds to a broken block (sling). Move up slightly leftwards off the block to gain good holds on the overhanging wall. Pull over with some difficulty onto a ledge (Friend). Move slightly right and climb the overhanging arete to a delicate and unprotected slab finish.
Andy Little, Tony Cornish, 4th November 2004
Combined age of first ascent team is 126!
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38. The Bullgine Run 30m VD **
A superb and serious top pitch with a definite crux makes this a classic of its grade. It uses the big rightward-slanting slab in the upper half of Central Buttress. Start at the toe of the Central Buttress below a couple of mossy breaks leading onto some right-slanting ledges below a big oak.
1 10m. Climb either break to the ledges. Follow these rightwards to just below the big oak on the long ledge above. Ascend boldly up a series of small flakes just left of the tree or alternatively creep rightwards and then sidle left to an undignified grapple with the tree. Belay.
2 20m. The obvious juggy slab behind the tree is now followed easily up rightwards to a steepening. Climb this on awkwardly-placed holds to a detached horizontal block. Walk the Plank along this block to the right. Keep moving right until an easy gully leads left to a tree. Belay.
Warning: Beware of loose blocks when scrambling up the gully.
Variation to pitch 2:The Crack Finish S
Climb the crack above and right of the Plank. A direct but illogical variation.
39. Victory V 18m E2
An unpopular variation finish to The Bullgine Run in an impressive position.
(5b). Starting from the big oak on the long ledge, climb the steep wall to the left of the slab of The Bullgine Run. A ledge is |
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Jilly Reid on the Bullgine Run (VD)
Photo: Stephen Reid
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reached at 9 metres. Climb the V-groove above and finish just to the right of The Monkeyhanger.
Variation Finish E2
(5b). Climb the overhanging crack to the right of the V-groove. |
40. Zephyr 22m VD
Another variation top pitch to The Bullgine Run. A much better climb than it appears although little of it is apparent from below!
Start at the big oak at the right-hand end of the long ledge. Step right from the oak along the long ledge until a scruffy corner just left of a smooth slab can be reached. Step into and out of the corner in favour of the slab on the right. Climb this diagonally rightwards until it abuts against a break in the steep wall above. Climb the wall delicately to a ledge on the right. Broken rock above leads to a final steep wall which provides a pleasant but avoidable finish.
41. Ituna 30m S *
A much better climb than appearances would suggest as not much is apparent from below. It follows a fine gangway slab to the left of and parallel with Flasherman and provides mild friction climbing in an exhilarating position.
Seven metres right of Bullgine Run, right of and above a small cave/recess at ground level is a block embedded in the ground below a shallow corner with a smooth right wall. This marks the start.
Bridge the corner and follow a traverse right to a ledge on the arete. Continue up, climbing the clean right-hand corner to an awkward finish on a good ledge. The fine slabby gangway is followed to the top to finish at the same point as Flasherman by a downward pointing small oak.
42. Douber 25m HS
Not a very popular climb but it certainly has its attractions if you can be bothered to seek them out. Certainly worthwhile.
Start at the foot of the blunt and dirty rib 4 metres right of the corner of Ituna.
(4a).
Climb the short rib to an awkward finish at the junction with Ituna. The cracked groove above and left leads up the buttress, always with interest, to the top.
Up to the right and around a corner, one arrives at a very open and interesting face which is remarkable for its fine rock architecture a fine towering arete on the right and a gigantic block overhang to the left of the arete, whose appearance has nothing whatsoever to do with the choice of route names in this area. An open book corner marks the line of the superb Flasherman.
43. Flasherman 26m VS ***
A classic! One of the best sandstone climbs anywhere.
Low technicality, but a runout crux ensures an adventurous experience for middle-grade climbers. Start in a cave below an overhang below the big open-book corner.
(4b).
Climb diagonally right up the slabby right wall of the cave and pull over the bulge to a block on big holds. Step left and enter the corner and follow it to the large flake at the top. Step right on the flake (runners) and climb boldly up the shallow groove to good holds. Move left to finish at the downward pointing oak as for Ituna.
43a The Direct Finish HVS
(5a). From the top of the big corner instead of moving right, climb the very steep continuation corner direct on small holds.
44. Erection 26m HVS ***
Yet another fantastic experience, heightened further by a lack of protection at the top. Start a few metres right of Flasherman at a steep wall directly in line with the prominent block overhangs.
(5a).
Climb the wall and then more easily move up the overhangs on the right . Jam the obvious right-hand crack of the biggest one and via a contortion attain the top of the flake. The shallow scoop in the steep wall to the right is climbed with trepidation in a wonderful position.
45. Viennese Oyster 27m E3 *
An intimidating line which offers varied climbing in superb situations. Start as for Erection.
(5c). Climb the steep wall and slab to below the block overhangs (it is recommended to climb up to fix a high runner in the crack to the right of the 'phallus'). From the level of the lower block overhangs, traverse right to an obvious jug on the bulge. Pull over the bulge (strenuous) then step left and move over a small, triangular roof. (PR in situ on right). Reach high and right for good holds. Traverse steeply right and pull round the arete. A few more feet brings one to the top.
The fine, overhanging arete to the right of Erection is an obvious feature. Separating this from the next section (Dome Slab), is a steep broken wall which runs into a deep open, gully.
46. Erection Arete Original 22m NL *
Start beneath the steep broken wall, just right of the arete and below the gully.
(5c).
Climb the centre of the wall and move up a crack on the left until a left-slanting undercling crack can be followed towards the arete. A hard move up gains a right-slanting break where moves left up the wall gain the top of the arete.
47. Soft Touch 22m NL *
Start as for Erection Arete Original.
(5c).
From the top of the broken wall move out left two metres lower down than the undercling crack to gain a flake and pocket. Follow the steep arete to the top.
Has since been led by Chris King.
48. Nurts Way 22m HVS
Start at the foot of the steep wall below the gully.
(5a).
Climb the wall as for the two previous routes and scramble up the gully to below the steep right-slanting crack on the left wall. Climb this to finish at an oak tree.
|
The Main Cliff - Dome Slab |
This is the clean buttress of pale yellow rock separated from Erection Arete by a steep, dirty wall and ensuing gully. Dome Slab consists of slabs and walls sandwiched between attractive roofs and overhangs and hosts a bevy of quite fearsome climbs. The best descent is via a gentle gully on the upstream end of the buttress. From the foot of the gully an easy ledge slants under the front of the face.
49. Close Encounters 10m E1 *
A very good short route which proves to be harder than it looks.
Start at the left side of the buttress below the right-hand end of the first barrier of overhangs.
(5b/c). Climb easily up rightwards to the weakest point in the overhang and reach through to gain a horizontal line of very small holds. Traverse left on these with difficulty until they lead to an easing and jugs. A hard move up leads to a fine flake hold and the final step to the tree.
50. Mellow 14m NL
Another pleasant route.
(5c). Start as for Close Encounters and move easily rightwards beyond where this route move up through the bulge. The second tier of overhangs is breached by a left-slanting break. Follow this to attain with difficulty a standing position above the traverse of Close Encounters. Move diagonally leftwards up the slab to finish at the tree.
Has since been led by Chris King.
51. Talking To Trees 14m E3
An interesting route with an awkward crux right at the top.
(5c).
Start at the same point as Close Encounters, but continue moving easily rightwards until the section tier of overhangs can be breached via a vertical fluted runnel to reach a large triangular block below the top overhang (runners can be arranged in the crack on top of the block). Pull over the bulge awkwardly and struggle up past a small sapling using a thin flake crack to gain the top.
52. Beyond The Thunder Dome 14m NL
One very hard move. Start below a block lying poised on the lower slab 4 metres right of Close Encounters.
(6a/b). Climb past the block and move up diagonally rightwards to the next break through the second overhangs, to the right of the vertical runnel of Talking To Trees. Surmount the overhang and climb direct to the top overhang which is surmounted via desperate moves right up a shallow slanting flange.
Has since been led by Chris King, May 1997 - Grade E5? (6b).
53. Dome Slab 14m E5 ***
Hard, serious and intimidating. Retreat from the crux could prove to be a nasty experience, although the crux itself calls on reserves of strength and determination not usually brought into play. A 'real' climb. Protection must be carefully arranged in the block below the finish of Talking To Trees. Start directly below the widest point of the top roof at the right side of the buttress.
(6a).
Ascend pleasantly up the gradually steepening line of shelves and shallow corners to just below the roof. An extended move up brings a thin crack to hand which is used to reach out left to the prominent right-trending flange on the lip. Use this and good but low-placed holds to make the depressingly difficult crank onto the slab above and reaffirm your faith in Divine Providence. |
The Main Cliff - Red Buttress |
A few metres right of Dome Slab is the Red Buttress. This consists of a left-hand very steep wall of soft rock below which is the famous Split Boulder. Further right is a slab seamed with wrinkles and overlaps. This slab provides some excellent climbs, amongst the best at the crag. Red Buttress peters out at the descent route on the right between it and the Final Section.
54. Red Spider 16m E2
A horrible route and best avoided. Start on the good ledge above the Split Boulder.
(5b).
Climb out of a little corner and move up and right on reasonable rock to a ledge below the prominent V-shaped recess of Red Monkey. Follow the best and soundest line up and leftwards to reach a tree overhanging the face. It may be preferable to enter the recess of Red Monkey to fix the good nut runner located there.
55. Red Monkey 16m E1 *
A good climb which deserves greater popularity. The crucial moves right can be well-protected by a nut in the back of the recess. Start level with the top of Split Boulder, a couple of metres right of Red Spider below a good short flake in the steep wall.
(5b).
Pull over the small bulge on excellent holds and climb the fine little wall to an easing below the recess. Enter the recess (runner) and exit via hard moves on the right wall to gain the obvious prow. This finish is somewhat heathery now.
56. Red Lion 11m HVS 5a
Named after the pub in Armathwaite. A hidden gem.
Start as for Red Monkey.
(5a).
Climb up towards the recess but before getting there move rightwards up a lower, parallel diagonal break to finish at the top of the heathery crack.
57. Coombs Crack 8m HVS
(5a).
An esoteric experience, at least until a bit more traffic has rid this tremendous classic of its vegetation. It used to be worthwhile.
The buttress now changes character and becomes a steep slab of excellent rock.
58. Wafer Thin 12m E5 **
One of the most exacting leads in the area. The crux involves some excrutiating footwork and body placements that would do justice to the Royal Ballet. Start just right of Coombs Crack below a steep, blunt rib with a slab above it.
(6a/b). Climb the blunt rib on undercuts until the small flakes on the left can be trodden to gain access to the slab. A series of moves up and slightly leftwards enable one to reach up right to the top break. Finish through a gap in the heather above.
Direct Finish: Climb directly up the slab from the top of the blunt rib. Slightly harder than the original but not as fine.
59. Bad Moon Rising 13m NL
Start as for Paper Moon, about a metre right of Wafer Thin below the left end of the dominating right-curving line.
(6b).
Gain the overlap and make a couple of moves up this before moving left to climb the slab above by a series of hard moves.
60. Paper Moon 13m E3 ***
A magnificent climb. This scary lead is one of the major climbs of the crag and provides continuous interest and difficulty on good rock with a finely-placed crux right at the end. Start below the left end of the dominating curving overlap.
(5b).
Climb up and slightly leftwards to gain the start of the overlap. This is followed rightwards to an intriguing finish which makes good use of a vertical crack to the right whilst gaining a ledge above the overlap.
61. Devil Moon 13m NL
(6b/c). Start as for Paper Moon. Climb up for 3 metres, and where Paper Moon moves left to gain the main feature, move right to an arch and use this to move right to gain a right-facing flake edge. Finish up the final obvious vertical crack of Paper Moon.
62. New Moon 10m E5 *
A desperately hard problem, though not as fine as the others hereabouts. Good footwork is again as important an asset as steel-reiforced tendons, but that's obvious isn't it? Start about four metres right of Paper Moon, just left of the thin right-curving crack which is the line of the start of Moondance.
(6b).
Climb out of the recess using a set of undercuts, transfer to the next undercuts above and aim to gain a rounded, knob on the slab above. Finish up Moondance.
63. Moondance 13m HVS
A route which utilises a popular boulder problem for its start.
Start at the foot of the short, thin, right curving break.
(5a).
Climb the break until the slab above can be gained. Without recourse to the right, climb the centre of the slab and gain and climb the wide right-facing groove/crack to an awkward finish.
To the right, a shallow gully with tree roots provides an easy way to the top of Red Buttress and climbs on the left end of the Final Section. |
The Main Cliff - The Final Section |
One of the most popular sections at Armathwaite, this long section commences with the steep wall of Free And Easy, identifiable by its short, thin curving crack near the top. Further right, a large boulder abuts against the face to form a low arch beyond which is the fine arete of Swing Off Sister. The deep corner on the right of this is Barnacle Bill. Attractive slabs steepen into pocketed walls containing Pickpocket and the crag whilst not diminishing in height, becomes less attractive, but nonetheless provides some good pitches before petering out at a small roof just left of the descent route. In the main the rock is excellent and care should be taken to avoid uneccessary wear at the top of climbs.
64. The Mantleshelf 4m 5b
A good little problem. Start at the left end of the buttress in the shadow below a big tree growing from the short wall a few metres up. Hard moves up the small ledges lead to a hard mantleshelf finish just right of the tree. Dirty.
65. Moving Pictures 9m NL
Avoids the real issue of the wall but provides a logical enough line. Start at a short corner below and one metre left of the thin crack high on the wall which is the finish to Free And Easy.
(6a/b).
Climb up this corner and pull onto the slab above. Traverse the sloping ledge leftwards for about three metres until a mantleshelf move brings one below a very shallow scoop. Climb the scoop via a long reach for a poor hold.
66. One Hand Clapping 12m E4 *
A bold climb taking on the challenge of this very "classy" wall. One of the better recent developments.
(6a).
Start as for Moving Pictures and follow this route to the mantleshelf. Step right until it is possible to climb straight up to a very hard finishing move.
67. Free And Easy 12m E5 ***
An outstanding, absorbing and serious climb requiring technical competence and a cool approach. One of the best routes on the crag. Start below and one metre right of the upper crack.
(6a).
Climb the short wall onto a little ledge and reach good holds in the first break. A hard pull on the next break leads to a rest. Move slightly right onto the sloping holds in the break (wires) and ease up leftwards to use the best of a cluster of pockets to establish oneself on sloping footholds below the top crack. Climb the top crack with rising hopes that are soon shattered as the top is gained. Now finish.
68. Plain Sailing 12m NL *
A fine pitch of some character and much difficulty. Start 3 metres right of Free And Easy at a left-facing corner.
(6b).
Climb up the short corner to a ledge. The vague arete above is climbed first slightly left, then slightly right to two prominent small pockets. Move up and slightly right to finish.
69. Sailing Shoes 12m NL 6a
Start as for Plain Sailing at the short, left-facing corner.
(6a).
Climb this to a ledge, then ascend the wall above bearing right to an obvious, horizontal overlap. Undercling this and make a desperate move right onto a sloping ledge. Finish up the slab and corner above as for The Crescent.
To the right of this climb is a huge boulder which form a narrow passage between itself and the crag. At the top of the passage a jammed block bridges the gap and forms a tunnel.
70. Mr Bundy's Best Friend 15m NL
Start below the steep wall at the foot of the huge boulder.
(6b).
Climb the wall direct for 3 metres to gain the centre of the curving shelf of the initial traverse of The Crescent. Climb the wall above just right of the obvious jug which marks the crux of Crescent and gain a line of pockets above and right. Move right from these to a very strenuous finish.
71. The Crescent 13m E2 *
A good climb with an intimidating and unprotected crux. Much easier for the tall. Start just left of the tunnel.
(5b).
Climb onto the obvious curving shelf and follow it leftwards for 4 metres to where the shelf curves up. Sharp but small edges on the wall above provide the means of gaining a good jug. Once gained, pull up and stand up. The slab and corner above are easier.
72. Jelly Terror 9m E1
A good climb, strenuous but protectable.
Start on top of the jammed block below the obvious crack.
(5b).
Climb the slim crack and pass a strenuous bulge. The wider cracks above are easier, but still strenuous.
Five metres right of the tunnel, the crag bends into a prominent deep corner capped by a triangular overhang.
73. Swing Out Sister 10m NL 6a
Start just left of the prominent corner below a well-brushed narrow wall.
(6a).
Climb the centre of the widening wall and using the left arete, gain a cluster of finger pockets. Use these to pull up and swing over the edge of the arete to gain a standing position. Climb the yellow, friable wall above by the line of least resistance.
74. Y-Front 11m E2 *
A bold climb on generally positive holds. Start at the foot of the prominent corner.
(5b).
Layback the corner until stopped by the triangular roof. Pull out left to gain side holds and step onto the rib below the hanging cleft. Climb the cleft using holds on the right in horizontal breaks. Near the top, transfer onto the wall left of the cleft and finish at the top of the arete.
75. Barnacle Bill 13m E1 **
A superb classic corner with a delicate and fairly bold crux.
(5b).
Climb the layback corner to the roof. A very fine sequence of moves right under the roof gains the continuation crack which is thin though protectable.
76. Limpet Lil 11m NL
A minor variant on Barnacle Bill.
(5c). Climb Barnacle Bill to the roof. Pull over this to the next horizontal break. Move slightly right and up, to gain a good right-handhold. A long reach now gains the top.
77. Andy's Slab 13m E3 *
A much tried test-piece. Remarkable for its time, before 'sticky rubber'. Start 6 metres right of Barnacle Bill at the first vertical break in the lower, smooth slab.
(6a).
Climb the break and stand on a very sloping ledge. The next moves require good footwork and follow a tenuous series of scrapes diagonally right to gain a slight right-trending gangway. Gain the gangway (crux) and swing right onto a left-trending ramp. Follow this to the top.
78. Smear Or Die 12m NL 6b
Start as for Andy's Slab. Follow this until instead of moving right from the sloping ledge, move up and slightly left to a layaway for the right hand at the left-hand end of the obvious curving feature in the centre of the slab. Use this hold to gain a shallow left-facing scoop just right of Barnacle Bill. Finish up Barnacle Bill.
79. Codpiece 12m E3 **
Climbed direct this offers a desperately hard climb on poor jams and layaways with difficult to arrange protection from small wires. Start 5 metres right of Andy's Slab below a prominent flaring crackline which has a slim ramp leading off left at four metres height.
(6a).
Climb the crack direct to a gruntingly strenuous section above the ramp. The finish is difficult and insecure. Bridging onto the ramp on the left reduces the grade to 5c
80. Codpiece Left-Hand 12m E1 *
A good climb at the lower end of the grade. Popular. Start as for Codpiece.
(5b).
Climb the crack and enter the ramp by a difficult step up (crux). The ramp above leads to easier climbing up ledges to the top.
81. Pickpocket 10m E3 **
A very fine climb of sustained difficulty and interest. Start as for Codpiece.
(5c).
Climb the vertical crack until a line of foot pockets can be traversed right assisted by a difficult handchange and a long reach right. Better holds in more pockets and continuing moves right lead to a handledge in a horizontal slot. Use this to gain the wall above and climb this via a prominent protruberance.
82. Pickpocket Superdirect 9m E3 *
Four metres right of the Codpiece crack and three metres up the face is a left-facing layaway hold. Start below and just right of this.
(6a).
Gain the layaway by a very hard move on low finger pockets. Finish as for Pickpocket.
83. The Black Russian 9m NL
A very hard problem which can be use as a finish to the Superdirect or the ordinary route.
(6b).
From the layaway hold on Pickpocket Superdirect, use pockets on the right to gain a series of horizontal creases which enables the upper wall to be climbed direct a couple of metres left of the normal finish.
84. Pickpocket Direct 9m E2 *
Start just right of Pickpocket Superdirect where a ledge at waist height runs rightwards into a bulge-capped, small recess.
(5b).
Traverse right along the ledge into the recess. Move onto the slab above below a steep wall and move left to gain the horizontal slot. Use this to gain the wall above and finish via the obvious protruberance.
85. Solitaire 13m E2 5b
Start as for Pickpocket Direct. This generally unpopular route finds a way rightwards up the steep slab capped by the red bulge.
(5b).
Traverse the ledge as for Pickpocket Direct and move out of the bulge-capped, small recess rightwards. Traverse diagonally right to finish at the obvious silver birch at the top.
86. Pocket Solitaire 10m NL
Start below and 1m left of the silver birch.
(5c).
Climb the wall direct into a small recess at 5 metres. Step left and gain the ledge above on slopers. Finish up the short wall to the birch.
Since led by Chris King.
87. Cluedo 11m E2
Start at the foot of the buttress at the lowest point directly beneath a huge pine tree.
(5b).
Climb to a ledge with help from a small Beech on the right. The flakes above, lead up to a very dirty finish which should be inspected. Finish at the pine.
88. John's and Frog's Route 9m E2
Start 2 metres right of Cluedo below a right-facing small flake just right of the small beech.
(5b).
Climb the wall to the flake. The face above is climbed to finish at a silver birch.
89. The Field Of Dreams 8m NL
Start 4 metres right of John's And Frog's below a left-slanting ramp at 5 metres.
(5c).
Climb the bulging wall via poor layaway holds to gain the ramp. Move leftwards up this to the top.
Six metres further right is a short, clean wall with a birch growing at the top, right on the edge.
90. Tramlines 6m E2 *
Start below the birch.
(5b).
Climb the wall using the thin line of intrusions running up the wall.
At the far right end of this wall are two small roofs with a tree growing below and close to the rock.
91. The Green Knight 6m HVS 5a
A pleasant climb when its clean! Start 2 metres left of the tree.
(5a).
Surmount the first bulge to reach the ledge. Step 1 metre left and, using poor handholds on the slab above, step onto the slab over the overlap and continue to the top direct.
92. The High Girdle 60m E6 ***
A fantastic expedition which crosses the most imposing part of The Final Section at a high-level. Start at the left-hand end of The Final Section just right of The Mantelshelf.
(6a/b) Gain the obvious sloping ledge and foot-traverse this rightwards passing below the thin final crack of Free And Easy. Continue rightwards with great difficulty round the blunt arete to gain the break across the wall above The Crescent. Follow this to Jelly Terror and continue rightwards on suspicious rock to gain Barnacle Bill by descending slightly. Finish up the final corner of Barnacle Bill. |
Armathwaite
FIRST ASCENTS |
| 1970s & 1980s |
The crags were discovered in the Summer of 1973 by Alistair Yarrow and Stewart Wilson.During this summer,the partnership made ascents of many fine climbs in the easier grades following natural lines. A Big Hand was the first, soon to be followed by Glenwillie Grooves, Bullgine Run and the excellent Flasherman.They were joined by Roy May and Ron Kenyon and produced Barnacle Bill and Codpiece but had to resort to pegs for aid on these climbs. At this time it was usual to ascend routes of this standard from bottom to top without prior cleaning or inspection.The end of this phase of development saw ascents of the bold Monkeyhanger and the steep Time and Motion Man. By the end of 1973 the secret was out and a group of talented young local lads inspired by the forceful approach of Jeff Lamb brought new ideas of what was possible and new approaches.This period saw a change of approach to new routes in that they were inspected, cleaned and top-roped prior to being led.
In this period, Jeff Lamb put up three important climbs; Cally Crack named after the Caledonian Inn in Carlisle which was the meeting place of the Carlisle lads at this time, the incredible Dome Slab which is anything but a slab and the ferocious Exorcist.Some suggested that The Exorcist be named Joiners Arms as that was Jeff's occupation.The protection peg placed on the first ascent is still there now and sees good service even though a youthful Ron Fawcett climbed it without.Lamb's contribution to the development of fine hard climbing on the crag also included the beautiful line of Paper Moon and a lead of what he called New Moon Direct, which is now described as New Moon, a desperate route! Jeff's contribution can only be approached by Pete Whillance whom it is rumoured used to climb the steep rocks, alone on Winter nights by the light of a headtorch in the pre-climbing wall era. Whillance in his way contributed climbs of a more subtle nature up the bold slabs and walls that abound on the crag.These routes although inspected and top-roped prior to being led, typify his boldness and technical mastery and at the time would rank with the best outcrop leads anywhere in the country. The intricate Free and Easy led finally to the commitment to lead the precarious Wafer Thin. It is doubtful whether these last two climbs have received an "on sight" lead or even a second ascent by any approach! In this period Whillance produced The High Girdle which girdles the crag's Final Section, an outrageously bold undertaking. The Dome was also breached by others and Talking To Trees was climbed by people Pete Botterill to provide a fine companion route to Dome Slab.
In 1977 the Overhanging Wall was breached in two more places by Phil Rigby: Blast Off and The Orbit represented a move towards extremely steep and serious climbing on rock whose stability left a lot to be desired. On the first ascent of The Orbit a number of capable seconds declined to follow Phil's lead on account of a healthy fear of the potential for a bone-crunching pendulum.Throughout this period test pieces were top-roped such as Blue Lugs named after the landlord of a local pub and Lamb soon led this. Another ascent of this period worthy of mention is Andy's Slab by Andy Hunter.It has kept many climbers occupied for a lot of time and even with sticky rubber doesn't seem any easier,in fact its alternative name; Once In A Blue Moon, sums it all up. The 1980's saw the addition of various useful climbs but nothing of particular note apart from the ascent in 1986 of The Viennese Oyster by Geoff Brown and Hughie Loughran which breaks out right of Erection and climbs the wall above in a fine position. Geoff went on to solo the incredible wall left of Free and Easy after inspection and cleaning, to give One Hand Clapping.The winter of 86/87 was the culmination of the quest to wring from the crag every last secret.In this last phase of development Alan Greig and Ray Parker; erstwhile partner of Pete Whillance inspired all and sundry to push the limits, top-roping many of the last problems with no small success. Unfortunately in a few cases hitherto futuristic creases and crannies in the rock's defences have been wire brushed to produce in the soft rock, holds that can be climbed at today's standards; a worthless act in that it denies future climbers the opportunity for technical satisfaction.Will they then brush out the brushed holds to create even harder problems as standards continue to rise? |
| 1973 |
May |
5 |
A Big Hand |
S.Wilson, A.Yarrow |
| |
|
|
The first route on the crag and climbed in front of an appreciative audience. |
| |
|
|
Kingfisher |
S.Wilson, A.Yarrow |
| 1973 |
May |
12 |
Glenwillie Grooves |
S.Wilson, A.Yarrow (AL) |
| |
|
|
Direct |
S.Wilson, A.Yarrow |
| |
|
|
The Bullgine Run |
S.Wilson, A.Yarrow (AL) |
| |
|
|
The Crack Finish |
A.Yarrow, S.Wilson |
| |
|
|
Ituna |
S.Wilson, A.Yarrow (AL) |
| |
|
|
The ancient name for the River Eden. Both Slab start and Rib start ascended. |
| 1973 |
May |
17 |
Flasherman |
A.Yarrow, S.Wilson (AL) |
| |
|
|
Named after one of the team who found himself in a situation of extreme exposure. |
| |
|
|
Time And Motion Man |
R.Kenyon, S.Wilson, T.Dale |
| |
|
|
Nosescratcher |
R.Kenyon, T.Dale |
| |
|
|
Joe Soap's Corner |
A.Yarrow, S.Wilson |
| 1973 |
May |
30 |
Herbie |
R.Kenyon |
| 1973 |
Summer |
Princess Anne's New Ring |
A.Yarrow, S.Wilson (AL) |
| |
|
|
Climbed the day she was engaged to Mark Phillips. |
| |
|
|
Zephyr |
A.Yarrow, R.Whitsome |
| |
|
|
Codpiece Left-Hand |
A.Yarrow, S.Wilson |
| |
|
|
Codpiece |
A.Yarrow, S.Wilson, R.May (VL) |
| |
|
|
Climbed using aid from two pegs. F.F.A. by J.Lamb in1974. |
| |
|
|
Barnacle Bill |
R.Kenyon, S.Wilson |
| |
|
|
Two pegs used for aid. F.F.A. by J.Lamb in 1974 |
| |
|
|
The Monkey Hanger |
S.Wilson, A.Yarrow (AL) |
| |
|
|
Stinkhorn |
S.Wilson, A.Yarrow |
| |
|
|
Cally Crack |
J.Lamb |
| |
|
|
Named after the Caledonian pub in Carlisle - a climbers' venue. |
| 1973 |
Sep |
30 |
F.B.S.J |
S.Wilson, R.Kenyon |
| 1973 |
Dec |
8 |
Douber |
R.Kenyon, T.Dale |
| 1973 |
Dec |
9 |
The Schnuck |
R.Kenyon, S.Wilson, T.Dale |
| |
|
|
Interest was added when the large tree used as the only runner, slid down the rope towards the terrified belayers huddled on the middle ledge. Luckily nobody was hurt. |
| 1973/74 |
|
|
Andy's Slab |
A.Hunter |
| |
|
|
A great achievement and a route which sees few convincing ascents hence its other name: Once In A Blue Moon. |
| 1974 |
Jan |
12 |
Erection |
J.Lamb, A. Liddell |
| 1974 |
Feb |
16 |
Blockbuster |
R.Kenyon, Chris ? |
| 1974 |
Feb? |
|
Dome Slab |
J.Lamb |
| |
|
|
Photographs of this superb First ascent in Mountain gave Armathwaite some national publicity. Pete Whillance made an early second ascent. |
| |
|
|
Cluedo |
S.Wilson, S.Butler |
| |
|
|
Coombs Crack |
S.Wilson |
| |
|
|
Red Monkey |
Mike Hetherington |
| |
|
|
Red Lion |
S.Wilson |
| |
|
|
Red Spider |
S.Miller |
| |
|
|
Victory V |
Unknown |
| |
|
|
The Crescent |
J.Lamb, Mike Hetherington |
| |
|
|
Jelly Terror |
J.Lamb, Mike Hetherington |
| |
|
|
Solitaire |
J.Lamb |
| |
|
|
Paper Moon |
J.Lamb |
| 1974 |
Mar |
25 |
Y-Front |
P.Botterill, Mike Hetherington |
| |
|
|
A bold on-sight first ascent. |
| 1974 |
May |
8 |
Free And Easy |
P.Whillance, A.Greig |
| |
|
|
Originally climbed with one aid point two days earlier. The name was a jocular reminder to observers that aid was not the name of the game. |
| 1974 |
Sep |
17 |
Pickpocket |
P.Whillance (solo) |
| |
|
|
After top-rope inspection. |
| |
|
|
Wafer Thin |
P.Whillance, A.Greig |
| |
|
|
After top-rope inspection. An audacious lead! |
| 1975 |
Jan |
18 |
Harry's Groove |
R.Kenyon, "Jamie" Morton |
| 1975 |
Feb |
2 |
Victory V: Variation Finish |
J.Lamb, Mike Hetherington , P.Botterill, H. Loughran |
| 1975 |
Mar |
13 |
Flasherman R.H. Finish |
P.Whillance |
| 1975 |
|
|
Sailing Shoes |
A.Hewison |
| |
|
|
Grey Duster |
Unknown |
| 1975 |
Mar |
18 |
Wafer Thin L.H. Finish |
P.Whillance |
| 1975 |
Mar |
26 |
New Moon |
J.Lamb |
| |
|
|
This desperate problem was called New Moon Direct in that it straightened out New Moon, a Whillance route (10.9.74) which came in from the left. Other routes have superseded this. New Moon, as it is now, has probably not had an ascent since the 70's on account of a hold breaking off. |
| 1975 |
|
|
The Exorcist |
J.Lamb |
| |
|
|
One of the big ones! Jeff placed a protection peg on the first ascent. He also climbed the route without, as did Ron Fawcett. The peg remains in situ and performs sterling service! |
| 1975 |
Apr |
22 |
Cook's Crack |
R.Kenyon |
| |
|
|
Cook's Left Hand |
A.Beatty |
| |
|
|
Boomerang |
A.Beatty |
| |
|
|
Aborigine |
A.Beatty |
| 1975 |
May |
20 |
The High Level Girdle |
P.Whillance |
| |
|
|
This bold excursion was completed solo by Whillance on 1.7.75. |
| 1975 |
|
|
The Scroll |
Stuart Miller |
| |
|
|
This route has been omitted in order to preserve the fine inscription, a misquote from Walton's 'Compleat Angler'. |
| 1975/76 |
|
|
Blue Lugs |
J.Lamb |
| |
|
|
This was led by Jeff although few people were aware of the fact. |
| |
|
|
Tramlines |
Unknown |
| 1975/76 |
|
|
Pickpocket Super Direct |
P.Botterill |
| |
|
|
Erection Arete |
J.Lamb |
| |
|
|
Jeff's Wall |
J.Lamb |
| 1977 |
|
|
Blast Off |
P.Rigby, D.Bowen |
| |
|
|
The Orbit |
P.Rigby |
| |
|
|
Moving Pictures |
S.Wilson, D.Bowen |
| 1978 |
Apr |
30 |
Close Encounters |
R.Kenyon |
| |
|
|
Harry's Arete |
R.Kenyon, Miss S. Thompson |
| 1979 |
|
|
Nurt's Way |
R.Kenyon |
| 1980 |
|
|
Petit Mal |
S.Wilson |
| |
|
|
The Thirty Nine Steps |
S.Wilson |
| 1985 |
|
|
Blanks' Expression |
L. Blanks |
| 1986 |
|
|
Moondance |
S.Wilson, Mrs.M.Wilson, A.Williamson |
| |
|
|
The Green Knight |
S.Wilson, Mrs.M.Wilson |
| |
|
|
Gwalchmai |
S.Wilson, J.Wilson, T.Suddaby |
| |
|
|
John and Frog's Route |
J Wilson, J.Hughes |
| |
|
|
Almost certainly climbed by Lamb in mid 70s. |
| |
|
|
Cook's Apron |
D.Hetherington, S.Wilson |
| |
|
|
Cook's Tour |
D.Hetherington, S.Wilson |
| 1986 |
Aug |
|
Smiling Faces |
M.Holden, D.Holden, M.Tomlinso |
| |
|
|
Meat Is Murder |
M.Holden, D. Holden, M.Tomlinson |
| |
|
|
Astral Wall |
M.Tomlinson, M.Holden |
| |
|
|
Kaleidoscope Eyes |
M.Tomlinson |
| 1987 |
|
|
Devil Moon |
A.Greig, R. Parker |
| |
|
|
Plain Sailing |
A.Greig |
| 1987 |
Jan |
31 |
Smear Or Die |
A.Greig, R. Parker |
| 1987 |
Feb |
1 |
Limpet Lil |
A.Greig, R. Parker |
| |
|
|
Climbed by P.Botterill in '70's but not claimed. |
| |
|
|
The Black Russian |
R. Parker, A.Greig |
| 1987 |
Feb |
7 |
Swing Out Sister |
R. Parker |
| |
|
|
The lower arete was climbed by Parker using high,side runners. This was soloed shortly afterwards by Paul Carling. The upper arete has not been led. Pete Botterill or Jeff Lamb may have top-roped the climb (Rise And Shine?) in 1974. |
| 1987 |
Sep |
|
Indian's Revenge |
G.Brown |
| |
|
|
The Viennese Oyster |
G.Brown, H. Loughran |
| 1987 |
|
|
One Hand Clapping |
G.Brown (solo) |
| 1989 |
Sep |
|
Mr. Bundy's Best Friend |
G.Brown |
| 2000? |
|
|
Mellow |
C.King |
| |
|
|
Top-roped by P.Williams in 1991 but certainly done before. |
| |
|
|
Soft Touch |
C.King |
| |
|
|
Originally top-roped in 1987 by A. Greig |
| |
|
|
Beyond The Thunder Dome |
C.King |
| |
|
|
Originally top-roped in 1987 by Mark Hetherington |
| |
|
|
Pocket Solitaire |
C.King |
| |
|
|
Originally top-roped in 1974 by S.Wilson. A series of out-standing leads from Chris (all after top-rope practice).
Needless to say they are serious leads - but maintain the challenge of the crag - no need for bolts here - all you need is talent and a long neck!
|
| 2004 |
Dec |
4 |
Janet of the Apes |
Andy Little, Tony Cornish |
| |
|
|
Combined age of first ascent team is 126! |
| 2004 |
Nov |
9 |
Savage Simian |
Andy Little, Tony Cornish |
|
| |
|
