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Last Updated: 20/10/07


O.S.Sheet 85

G.R. 287 402




This crag will be included in the next FRCC Eastern Crags guide (due 2008)

NORTH CUMBRIA
LIMESTONE

Caldbeck Moor
Quarry

by Stewart Wilson

FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB

of the
English Lake District

Caldbeck Moor Quarry is a disused quarry, set on the fells, about three miles west-north-west of Caldbeck. It faces east and has an open aspect. The climbing is contained on the one hundred and fifty metre long back wall and has a maximum height of ten metres. The rock is limestone, of variable quality, requiring some care on finishes. Belays are absent on top and stakes could be useful.

The wall has few distinguishing features and the established climbs are on the more obviously stable sections. More climbs could be available for the determined trundler.

Approaches & Access
The best approach from Penrith and the M6 (Junction 41), is to follow the B5305 (Wigton road) through Sebergham to the crossroads at Goose Green (String Of Horses Public House) and turn right on the B5299 for Caldbeck. Follow this road, uphill and over Warnell Fell, passing the turn off for Park Head Quarry on the left at the sharp right-hand corner. Continue to the next crossroads a distance of just over one mile and go directly across onto the unfenced fell road. This is followed for two and a half miles to another crossroads where a signpost points right to Wigton and westward. Turn right and, after another mile, the quarry will be seen on the left-hand side of the road by a disused building. It is possible to drive into the quarry. The quarry belongs to the local council and access is not a problem.

However Barry Clarke notes: still more potential here, but cleaning and trundling required. There are two stakes atop the Main Wall. Access: It is 1.7 miles to the crossroads across the moor, rather than 2.5 miles. The right turn here is signposted to a caravan park and after half a mile the quarry appears on the left. You can't drive in any more as there is a metal gate across the track. Finally, the building has been demolished!

The climbs are described from left to right. Descent is via a grassy ramp towards the left end of the wall and all the routes are to the right of this.


Left Wall

1. Faulds 6m S
Start below a wide crack 17m right of the descent ramp. Climb the wide crack and the loose, V-groove above.

2. Lynedraw 7m S
Climb the obvious corner to the right. Pretty awful.

3. Dunbeath 8m HS
Start just right of the corner of Dunbeath below a square-cut arete.
(4c). Gain the arete from the wall to the right and follow it to the top.

Six metres right of Dunbeath is a left-facing groove and a further five metres beyond this are two thin cracks which form a V.

4. Aughertree 8m S
Climb the wall left of the V to reach the left-hand crack at mid-height. Follow this to the top.

5. Snittlegarth 8m HS 4b
Climb the crescent-shaped crack 5 metres right of Aughertree.

A more broken area extends rightwards then the rock improves again to form the steep, smooth Main Wall.


Main Wall

6. Rash Raiser 9m VS *
(4b). Climb the arete which forms the left edge of Main Wall.

7. Whelpo Way 9m HS *
(4a). Start 5 metres right of the arete of Rash Raiser below a thin, crooked crack. Climb this.

Moving right, beyond a left-facing corner groove, is another steep wall which is off-set from the line of the Main Wall.

8. Thistlebottom 10m VS
Start by an overlap at the left side of the wall.
(4b). Follow a right-slanting crack to its end then move left to a slab and finish up this.

9. Biggards 9m HVS
(5a). Climb the curving right-hand crack which runs the full height of the wall.


Right Wall

At the extreme right end of the quarry a loose, south-facing wall makes a right angle with the main mass. A slightly more solid arete is apparent, roughly in the centre of this wall - this is Rose amongst Thorns.

Egmont 8m VS
A reasonable route taking the scooped wall 1 metre left of Rose amongst Thorns.
(5a). Climb the wall direct on spaced holds, after a bold fingery start. Just worthwhile now after a heavy cleaning session!
Steve Broatch, BJ Clarke, Julie Simpson, 23rd April 2006

Rose Amongst Thorns 9m VS
Start at the foot of the arete; small cairn.
(4b). Climb the arete direct, gradually easing, to a flat paved finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 12th April 2006

Thorn Corner 8m HS
(4a). Climbs the corner immediately right of Rose Amongst Thorns. Still a bit loose even after extensive cleaning.
BJ Clarke (solo), 21st April 2006

Striation Crack 7m MS 2007
Start 4 metres right of Thorn Corner, and climb the thin crack in the centre of the small protruding buttress to the top.
BJ Clarke, 15th Oct 2007

Caldbeck Moor Quarry
FIRST ASCENTS
1970s

All of the routes are the work of Ron Kenyon and date back to the 1970s. They were all climbed solo as nobody would go there with him. Recently the quarry has been re-visited by Paul Ross and Chris Bonington who have cleaned and climbed another batch of routes.

2006 Apr 12 Rose Amongst Thorns BJ Clarke (solo)
2006 Apr 21 Thorn Corner BJ Clarke (solo)
2006 Apr 23 Egmont Steve Broatch, BJ Clarke, Julie Simpson
2007 Oct 15 Striation Crack BJ Clarke (solo)