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Last Updated: 1/1/2006


O.S.Sheet 86

G.R. 562 502




This crag will be included in the next FRCC Eastern Crags guide (due 2008)

EDEN VALLEY

Cumrew Crag


by
Stewart Wilson

FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB

of the
English Lake District

Cumrew Crag is a small, part-quarried, part natural outcrop of generally compact limestone.It is situated in a fine position on the west side of Cumrew Fell above the village of Newbiggin.The outlook is superb and it is an excellent place for a spot of bouldering or as a place to take the family.

Cumrew Crag faces west at a height of over 350 metres.The rock is quick to dry even in winter. In common with most limestone the climbs tend to be steep, but untypically, big holds are lacking on many of the climbs. Whilst there are some natural lines, some of the harder climbs are a bit crowded. However this can be construed as a source of inspiration for the unimaginative and a chalice of delight for the pedant. Some angle irons are in place above the Main Wall and Amphitheatre, otherwise anchors are absent.

Approaches & Access
The crag is best approached from the Bluebell Inn at Newbiggin.This can be easily reached from Brampton by following the B 6413, or by following the same road in the opposite direction from Lazonby/Kirkoswald. Newbiggin is only 15 minutes drive from Armathwaite via Ainstable, turning left at the crossroads here and eventually picking up signs for Newbiggin. Just north of the Bluebell Inn is a crossroads. Follow the minor road into the village and towards the fell. After passing the last bungalow on the left a track can be seen climbing the steep fellside alongside a wood. Park on a small grassed area by a bridge and follow the track which is gated at the top and bottom. After passing through the top gate and emerging onto open fell, follow the left fork of the track above a drystone wall until another gate is reached. The continuing track is grassy but well-defined and passes under small outcrops. Cumrew Crag is directly behind the first ruined limekiln above the path. Time from car is 15 minutes.

The crag is divided into two areas, Amphitheatre Wall and Main Wall. A steep chockstone chimney separates the two areas. Several metres left of the crag is another small bouldering area.

Descents are at either end of the crag.


Amphitheatre Wall

To the left, above a low grass-covered ridge of spoil, is a series of walls with low-definition ribs.

1. Cryptic Crack 7m HS
Climb the steep crack at the left-hand end of the crag.

2. Starsky 9m VS
A bold little climb. Starts just right of Cryptic Crack, below and left of a white-streaked overlap.
(4c). Climb a short,awkward wall to a good ledge below the overlap. Pull over this to the right and continue direct to the top.

3. Kojak 15m E2
(5b). Climb Hutch to the bulge, then make a delicate rising traverse to reach a white ledge. Continue left to finish at the top of Cryptic Crack.

4. Hutch 9m VS
A good climb. Starts to the right of Starsky below a shallow left-facing little groove which is left of an area of more broken rock.
(4c). Climb this little groove direct. Step onto the arete at the top of this groove and finish straight up.

To the right is a more broken area, then a steep rib with a very smooth wall on its right. This smooth wall is short and finishes at a good ledge halfway up the crag.

5. The Wand 4m
(5b). Climb the steep rib left of the smooth White Magic wall.

6. Stoney Butts 9m S
Starts immediately right of the steep rib.
(4a). Climb the break in the steep wall to gain the ledge by a delicate step left. Climb the broken groove to the top.

7. White Magic 4m *
An excellent fingery problem with a good landing.
(6a). Climb the centre of the steep smooth wall gaining holds above a slight slab. Finish up and left.

8. Creepshow 9m VS 5a
(5a). Climb the corner groove just right of White Magic. This leads steeply to a good ledge. Climb the short wall above to the right of a prominent groove.

9. Black Magic 9m MS
Start at the foot of the wall just right of the initial corner groove of Creepshow.
Climb the wall on good holds to a jammed block. Pull up steeply to a good ledge and move left under the final wall of Creepshow to finish up the steep prominent groove.

10. Cauldron Wall 9m MS *
Start below the right-hand end of the mid-height ledge.
Climb the wall leftwards on good holds to a fine horizontal break. Pull out left onto the right-hand end of the middle ledge. Climb the tall detached block and the easy upper groove.

11. Grey Malkin 9m E1
(5b). Start as for Cauldron Wall but instead of moving up and left as for that climb, climb direct to the horizontal break and pass between two saplings. Climb the bare upper wall.

12. Toil and Trouble 9m E2 *
Start below the steep calcited wall at the foot of the chimney.
(6a). Climb the steep wall passing the break(crux).Trend slightly rightwards up the wall above.

13. The Cauldron 9m VD
Climb the chimney over chockstones to the top.


Main Wall

Main Wall is split by several obvious thin cracklines.

14. Grey Yaud 9m D *
Interesting and pleasant. Start at the left-hand end of Main Wall at the foot of a short slabby wall.
Climb this wall on sloping holds to a ledge. The curving flake crack is followed to the top.

15. Tabby 9m VD
Start at the foot of the thin right-trending crack just right of Grey Yaud. Climb this crack and move left at the top to follow the small corner parallel to and right of the finish of Grey Yaud.

16. Black Cat 9m E1 *
Starts at the foot of a thin crack with a 'pothole' at head height.
(5b). Climb the crack past the pothole (beware of the Owl!) to the overlap. Finish with difficulty up the steep wall just left of the thin crack.

17. White Spirits 9m E2
(5b). Climb the wall between Black Cat and The Croglin Vampire via the white streak. Gain good footholds above the overlap and finish direct up the wall on small holds.

18. The Croglin Vampire 9m VS **
The classic of the crag, steep and fingery with adequate protection. Start at the foot of the thin crack a metre or so to the right of the pothole.
(4c). Climb the crack on poor holds to a horizontal break. Power the overlap on excellent holds and luxuriate in the positive nuances of the steep upper wall.

19. Phantom 9m E1 *
So close to the Vampire you may incur the wraith of anyone on that route! Start just right of The Croglin Vampire.
(5b/5c). Climb the wall to the overlap (runners). Follow the small V-groove then climb the wall direct.

20. The Renwick Bat 9m VS *
Harder than the Vampire and more serious. Start at the right-hand end of the Main Wall at the foot of the obvious corner.
(4c). Climb the corner to the horizontal break. The overlap above has a crack going left and up. So must you. Finish as for Phantom.

21. The Fenny Thing 9m S
Climb the rib to the right of the corner to a ledge.Move right and finish up the short wall.

The slab a few metres right, and the walls right again, provide bouldering on good rock.

To the left of the Main Crag are several bouldering areas, the one nearest Main Crag being best. The small natural edge further left has some immense loose blocks and routes have been climbed here.

Cumrew Crag
FIRST ASCENTS
1970s & 1980s

The crag has been climbed on by local climbers for about 20 years. All the routes, in the main, are the work of Tim Dale, Ron Kenyon and Stew Wilson, with Alan Hewison contributing the bold duet of Starsky and Hutch. The harder more recent routes were added by Karl Lunt.

1985 Jun 2 Black Cat Karl Lunt, Neil Frowe
1985 Jun 2 Phantom Karl Lunt, Neil Frowe
1985 Oct 12 Grey Malkin Karl Lunt, Mark Tomlinson, AN Other
1988 Aug 22 Kojak Karl Lunt (solo)
1988 Aug 22 The Wand Karl Lunt (solo)
1988 Aug 22 Creepshow Karl Lunt (solo)
1988 Aug 22 Toil & Trouble Karl Lunt (solo)
1988 Sep 5 White Spirits Karl Lunt (solo)
      Clipping gear with a cow's tail.