Crag Gate is a small intermittent edge of good quality limestone which extends for over 100 metres and faces westwards into a gloomy wood (NB: this has been felled since the guide was witten). It is sheltered from the elements by a mature this conifer wood, but this gives attendant problems: condensation and midges. When the trees are eventually felled and this could be soon, the crag and its Southern continuation will be a very fine little venue. The routes are short and the climbing is very pleasant and can provide entertainment for the solo climber. The landings could be better in some cases.The top of the crag is open and sunny and tree belays abound.
Approaches & Access
The nearest village to the crag is Lamonby which lies to the west of the B5305 Penrith to Wigton road. This road is picked up at Junction 41 on the M6 north of Penrith. Follow the B5305 past Hutton in the Forest and continue past the masts of the BBC transmitter on your right. About a mile and a half from here is a junction, signposted to Lamonby.The same junction is reached by following the B5299 from Carlisle , via Dalston and Welton until one can turn left at the Goose Green crossroads on the B5305.
| The junction to Lamonby is the fourth on the right about three miles beyond Sebergham.Follow the road into Lamonby and turn right at the crossroads in the centre of the village. Continue out of the village and at the next crossroads, turn left and follow the road with felled woodland on the right. A small layby will soon be seen on the right and leading from this is a muddy track through mature conifers. (If you reach a large layby and a forest road on the right, you have gone too far!). Park at the entrance to the small layby taking care not to block the entrance to the wood. |
|
|
To reach the crag only takes five minutes. Follow the rutted track until a gate is reached at the far side of the wood. Go through the gate and follow the edge of the small fenced enclosure on the left. Continue under small crags with a fine outlook until a fence can be crossed. The crag extends from here, parallel to the wood. The crag is in a fire risk area so take great care. Please do not take dogs to the crag.
The climbing on the crag is located on four sections: The Prow, Left, Central and Right Sections. Individual route heights are omitted as the crag nowhere exceeds 8 metres. The climbs are described section by section from left to right.
The Prow
This is the prominent small prow of rock first encountered as one crosses the fence by the wood.
1. Destination Zululand HVS *
(5b).
Climb the overhanging rib direct on wonderful rock.
2. Oohwallawallawalla VS
(5a).
Climb the wall on the right, direct.
20 metres right is:
Left Section
A prominent feature of this section is a steep corner above a large block. Further right are pleasant little walls and aretes.
3. Me Jane D
Start at the foot of the easy-angled arete which bounds the left wall of the corner. Climb the arete on good holds.
4. Edgar MS *
Start below the steep, wrinkled wall left of the corner. Climb the wall. Easier than it looks.
5. You Tarzan HD
Climb the obvious, steep corner which contains a tree stump.
6. Umbongo S 4c
Climb the right wall of the corner via a groove. The start is strenuous.
7. Wanki HS *
(5a). Start on the front of the arete right of the last climb. Climb the overhang and slim groove.
8. Ovambo VD
Climb the wall below and right of the large rowan, which grows at the top of the crag.
9. Griptight VS *
(5a). Climb the steep wall via a double edged flake. Care with rock!
10. Grumble and Grunt D
Climb the steep chimney crack.
11. Tarzan Goes To Johnby D
Climb the short, easy and least interesting arete before the rocks diminish entirely.
Sixteen metres further right a large spreading rowan marks the start of the next section.
Central Section
This has two steep buttresses separated by vegetated rock. The right-hand buttress is very undercut and is split vertically by a crack which deteriorates into an easy chimney above.
12. Voie Grenouille HVS *
(5b).
Climb the left arete of the left-hand buttress. Steep and good.
13. Crawfish Pie VS
(4c).
Start below the central crack of right-hand buttress. Jam the central crack through the overhang and swing up and left to an easier finish on the left arete.
14. Trouble In The Fields HVS *
(5b). Start below the centre of the face to the right of the central crack.
Climb the overhang by a hard pull on sharp holds. The face above is pleasant.
To the right, a scruffy face peters out in a steep slope covered in low thorn and capped by a broken down drystone wall. The slope provides an easy descent. Further right is:
Right Section
Beginning with two short bulging faces: The Barrels. These provide interesting problems:
15. The wall left of the central crack. (4c).
16. The central crack. (4b).
17. The extreme right-hand arete. Climbed on the front face. (5c).
18. The wall on the right. (5b).
Smooth Wall is bounded on its left-hand side by a large block overhang of dubious stability. Further right, a large rowan grows from the crag just below the top.
19. Serengeti HS
(4a).
Climb the wall directly below the right-hand end of the block overhang. Pass this with care and finish direct.
20. Bundu Boys HS *
A great little climb, its a pity its so short. Start below the rowan tree growing out of the crag near the top.
(4b).
Climb the centre of the fine, smooth wall via a short crack then good slots to the tree. Finish easily through the top bulge.
21. Desmond VS 4c *
A steep and interesting climb. Start 2 metres right of Bundu Boys.
(4c).
A hard move for the short on small pockets enables a good hold to be reached. Swarm up the left curving line of bulges and finish direct.
Smooth Wall merges into the scruffy vegetated Overlapping Wall.
22. The Bickeridge Twins S
Start just right of Desmond.
Climb the small corner and scruffy crack to vegetation.
23. Wack and Jill MS
Start a few metres further right at another small corner.
Climb this and the wall above, to finish up a thin runnel in the top bulge.
24. Og MS
Start one metre further right. Climb the steep wall and slim protruding pillar.
The crag improves again at Grey Buttress, an undercut buttress of good rock. A large block on the ground, marks the start of the next route.
25. Gagool VS *
A hard start, but good nut placements.
(5b).
Climb the very thin crack above the large block to steep but easier climbing on good holds. Enjoyable.
|
