| Helbeck Wood Crag is a limestone crag situated at the north end of Helbeck Wood, about three quarters of a mile west of Brough Scar, and accessesed as for that crag.
Helbeck Wood Crag faces south-west and despite its altitude is a sheltered place to climb. The rock is sound and compact and does not run to large holds. The crag contains some excellent natural lines, amongst the best in the Eden Valley.
Approaches & Access
The crag is on private land (it has recently been designated open access land under the CROW Act) and there are no Public Rights of Way but the approach described has been used by climbers without hindrance for some years now. From Brough Scar take a rising line up and over the crest of the ridge to gain a wall. Follow this westwards, crossing it where it bends sharp left. Continue along the flank of the ridge over the rise passing to the left of a small tarn. Descend past an area of tilted limestone pavement to meet another wall which can be crossed at a gap. Follow this wall down to the left where it joins the boundary of Helbeck Wood. The crag is over this wall extending away to the right. Time from Brough Scar is 25 minutes. KL states: The approach described is over access land but I think the crag itself is actually just outside the access land - the wall above seems to be the boundary. We never had any problems except for a slight worry about stray projectiles from the nearby Warcop ranges!
These are described from left to right and it is best to walk along the base of the crag to the left end to locate the first routes.
The major featre of the left end of the crag is a large roof with two parallel grooves leading up to it.
1. Sergeant Rock 12m HVS
(5a).
Follow the right-hand groove. At the roof swing right onto a small ledge. Finish up blocks above.
To the right is a large easy-angled corner. The next route is on the left wall.
2. Shoot To Kill 12m E4 **
(6a).
Follow the parallel cracks finishing above the left-hand one. Desperate.
3. Fylingdale Flier 13m HS
Climb the easy-angled corner.
Variation: VS
(4c). At two-thirds height, break out onto the left wall and finish up this.
4. Judge For Yourself 12m VS
(5b).
Start midway along the right wall and climb this direct. An easier start utilizes the undercut flake crack just right.
Nearby, one stem of a large tree has split and rests against the rock. The next route starts just right of this.
5. Rabbit On The Windscreen 15m HS
(4b).
Layback the crack and continue up the groove-line to a ledge.
The section of crag right from here contains several excellent routes all on sound rock. The first major feature is a right-slanting ramp line.
6. Crossfire 17m VS 4c ***
Follow the ramp to the overlap. Swing up and right on good holds then continue in the same line to finish.
7. Silkworm 15m E2 **
Start below a wide open groove right of Crossfire.
(5b).
Climb boldly up the groove and, at the overhang, pull up left to join Crossfire, up which one can finish.
The groove of Silkworm is bounded by a blunt, undercut rib.
8. Stealth 15m HVS **
Start from blocks below the rib.
(5a).
Reach up for a good hidden hold to gain the rib which is followed delicately. Finish up a tiny corner and short crack.
To the right, a groove line leads to a small roof.
9. The Hollow Karst 15m VS
Start below the groove.
(4c).
Climb up the groove and over the roof to finish at a large prominent flake.
10. The Professionals 15m E2 ***
Start 4 metres right of The Hollow Karst below a corner capped by some large roofs.
(5b).
Climb the corner to the first roof. Pull into the short groove then move right below the second roof to finish up the hanging rib in a fine position.
11. Lethal Weapon 13m E3 **
Start below the rib to the right of The Professionals.
(5c).
Climb the rib which is difficult to start but which eases near the break. From here pull up into the hanging groove just right. Finish up this.
The crag is now vegetated, and the next route is at the right side of a smooth wall some 25 metres right of Lethal Weapon. A small tree grows out of a crack and there are some large fallen blocks.
12. Trench Warfare 15m E2 **
Start below a small dog-legged crack at 3 metres.
(5c).
Gain this crack and the break above which has good holds. Move right and pull onto the cleaned ledge. Climb the wall above to a tricky finish.
Four metres right is a large roof.
13. Rocket To Russia 15m E1 **
Start below the corner.
(5b).
Climb the corner then swing right to gain the top of a massive flake. Climb the blunt rib to the break then finish up the wall above.
The next two routes start in the small bay just to the right.
14. Fight Or Flight 15m E2 *
Start at a crack formed by the massive flake.
(5b).
Jam the crack and make gymnastic moves to stand on the top of the flake. Climb the blunt rib to the break then finish up the wall above as for Rocket To Russia.
15. Deterrent 15m E1 *
Start below the obvious crack at the back of the bay.
(5b).
Climb the crack and, at the overlap, move right to ascend a faint scoop passing another overlap.
N.B. A rockfall has removed the lower part of this climb.
Ten metres further right, a prominent corner is capped by overhangs.
16. Superpower 20m HVS
Start below the prominent corner.
(5b).
Climb the corner easily, then traverse awkwardly left to a niche in the arete. Difficult moves past a bulging rib gain good holds above to finish.
Near the right-hand end of the crag are some massive blocks which lie against the crag.
17. Privates On Parade 15m S
Start at a chimney 4 metres left of the massive blocks.
Climb the chimney, then follow the right-hand layback crack to a large ledge. Finish easily.
18. Judgemental Jibe 15m HS
Start 2 metres right of Privates On Parade.
(4c).
Mantleshelf onto a ledge and take one of various possible finishes above. |
