3.Afterlife HVS 1988
(5b).
Climb the prominent, jutting arete left of the corner, on its right-hand side. Serious.
BC says: Afterlife is HVS 4c, not 5b!
4. The Corner MS
Climb the obvious corner at the left-hand end of the Main Wall. Not very good.
5. Going Green MS
Start at the foot of the wall, just right of The Corner. Climb the wall in the line of a small tree just below the top.
6. Rainbow HS 4a
Start just right of Going Green at a rib, just left of a shallow corner.
Climb the left side of the rib to the top.
7. Dig For Victory MVS
Start below the shallow corner, right of Rainbow.
(4b).
Climb the wall just right of the corner and move into the corner to finish.
The Hoff.
TL suggests MVS 4c, suspect rock at top but can get sling on tree to left.
8. The Shades MVS *
Start 2 metres right of the shallow corner.
(4b).
Climb the smooth wall and pleasurably surmount the overlap at 3 metres, via a pocket. Climb the shallow runnel directly to the top.
TL suggests VS 4b, bold.
9. The Devon HS
Start below the wall and overlap just left of the steep crack holding a tree.
(4a).
Climb the wall and overlap.
10. Mojo MS
The first major crack on Main Wall.
Climb the crack in its entirety, passing the tree either left or right.
Grade is correct at MS (SR).
11. Gromerzog HVS *
A horrible name but a fine little climb. No more chipping please!
Start 1.5 metres right of Mojo at the foot of a very steep, smooth wall.
(5b).
Climb direct, eschewing all pockets on the left. The line continues over the right-hand end of a tapering overlap at 5 metres.
NB Grade is more like E3 (6a). The bit about not using the pockets on the left is immaterial to the grade (SR, CK). Barry Clarke adds: Agree with SR,CK about Gromerzog. For the HVS 5b tick; follow the left-hand pockets to a step left to place a clunky nut in Mojo (resisting the temptation to use the tree!). Move back right and use larger, but poorer pockets to gain easier rock and the top.
12. Blonde Ella VS
The smooth wall of Gromerzog takes on a rougher texture 3 metres right of the crack of Mojo.
(4b).
Climb up this textured wall trending leftwards to finish left of the band of small overhangs at the top.
Grade should be HVS (5a) (SR, CK).
13. Slap Bang in the Middle VS
Start at the incipient crack, just right of Blonde Ella.
(4c).
Climb the steep wall direct, through an area of very compact rock. Finish through the centre of the overhang at a layaway flake.
Grade is correct at VS (4c) (SR, CK).
14. Brant S
Start at a set of left pointing flakes on the wall, 2 metres right of Slap Bang In The Middle.
Climb the flakes and the very faint rib above, to finish up a shallow scoop.
15. Barwise HS **
Super holds! Start immediately below a small stump, at head height just right of Brant.
Climb past the stump and continue up an obvious runnel. Finish directly up the steep wall.
NB The stump mentioned has now gone though a trace of it can still be seen. Grade is probably only S, not HS. Very good though (SR, CK).
16. Slosh Wall S *
Start 1 metre right of Barwise. Follow the wall just left of the second, obvious crack on Main Wall, passing a 'hole' near the top.
TL writes: The walls can be climbed almost anywhere and I thought that Slosh Wall and Spare Rib were particularly artificial, the former felt more like HS 4a.
17. Havers Crack S
Start below the obvious crack with a large, mangled stump at 3 metres.
Climb the crack.
18. Spare Rib HS
(4a). Climb the rib above and to the right of the large, mangled stump in Havers Crack.
19. Pig Meat HS *
Start one metre right of the mangled stump.
(4a).
Climb the shallow groove, just right of Spare Rib.
20. Wormrigg Wall HS *
Start 2 metres right of Pig Meat.
(4a).
Follow the steep wall, slightly rightwards on a series of sharp flakes. Finish left of a small sapling.
Murenger VS
(4c). A fine route on micro jugs direct up the grey shield just right of Wormrigg Wall.
BJ Clarke, John Holden, May 2005 -- but done many times before.
21. Saxon S
Climb the wall directly below the small sapling.
22. Burrells S *
Start directly below the small tree, sprouting just below the top of the crag.
Climb direct to the tree via cracks. The wall above the tree is steep.
The wall beteen Burrells and The Arete is also pleasant and suitably artificial at about S (TL).
23. The Arete VD
Ascend the right-hand arete of Main Wall.
Girdle Traverses.
There are numerous possibilities for traverses at all levels. |
