|
O.S.Sheet 91
G.R. 618213
King's Meaburn will be included in the next FRCC Eastern Crags guide (due 2008)
|
EDEN VALLEY
Jackdaw Scar - King's Meaburn
Interim Guide
by Ron Kenyon |
|
|
FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB
of the
English Lake District |
|
| This
outcrop of variable quality carboniferous limestone atop a
band of soft sandstone is situated just west of the village
of King's Meaburn. It has an idyllic location facing west
above the River Lyvennet.
The
crag comprises of a series of bays forming a continuous
wall of limestone. It is sheltered by a number of trees,
and, with its sunny location, often enables good climbing
during the winter. The rock is generally good, however care
should be taken with the brittle edges and sometimes lichenous
nature of parts of the crag.
|
|
|
Descents
can be made by either abseil from the many trees on the top, with
use of a sling on the tree to abseil from, or else by descending
a path at the left of the crag.
Care should
taken with the fence at the top of the crag and the field behind
the crag should not be used.
Kings Meaburn is in the middle of the Penrith, Appleby and Shap
triangle and can be approached by the various country roads weaving
around here. In the village, just to the south of the White Horse
Inn, a road drops down westwards to a ford, with a footbridge,
over the River Lyvennet. The crag is visible to the right above
and left of cottages. Park here on the roadside. Follow a path
in front of the cottages and then up to the crag to arrive at
the Fifth Bay at a massive beech tree.
Restrictions
· No educational groups, except army groups, are allowed
to climb at the crag.
· Parking is not allowed in front of the cottages or obstructing
the road to the cottages.
· Approaches for toilets, water or other facilities to
the inhabitants of the cottages should not be made.
· Climbing is not allowed to the right of the drystone
wall, above the cottages.
· No excessive noise.
The routes
are described from left to right starting at the First Bay,
which is reached by walking along the base of the crag and passing
through an old gateway in a stone wall.
It is hoped
to add photo topos to this page soon - meanwhile these diagrams
are courtesy of Stew Wilson.
|
Left of the First Bay |
| Thirty eight metres left of the First Bay, past several corners, a crack springs from the apex of a scooped cave. This is Scoop Crack (HVS 5a, 2007); a pumpy little number, with a step left to reach the top!
Six metres right of Scoop Crack is an obvious corner, Near Tree Corner (S), which is climbed to a rightwards exit at the top.
Scoota 6m HS 2007
3 metres right of Near Tree Corner is an attractive shallow groove.
(4b). Climb it; with more difficulty than is apparent!
BJ Clarke (solo), 17th Nov 2007
Huggable 6m VS 2007
(4c). Takes the fine arete one metre right of Scoota to a thought-provoking finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 25th Nov 2007
A further 4 metres right is an easier corner, Falling Leafs (VD).
The off-width cleft 3 metres right is mercifully short, Wriggletto (VD), limb it, (the Butterfly stroke seems best), although two internal holds help.
All BJ Clarke (solo), 4th Nov 2007
Twenty metres left of the First Bay, and at the far side of the descent path, a fortuitous tree fall has exposed a 6 metre high wall.
The first and most prominent arete is D'apple Arete (S, 2007).
Both BJ Clarke (solo), 2nd August 2007
3 metres right of D'apple Arete, the niche and thin crack above give an awkward little climb, Shrinking Crack (5m, S 4a, 2008).
BJ Clarke (solo) 9th March 2008 |
First Bay |
|
This consists
of two walls at right angles. The right wall, after the demise
of a large tree in its centre, gives some clean and interesting
routes.
1 Tree
Chimney 6m D
Climb the chimney, on the left wall, behind a tree.
2 * First
Wall Eliminate 6m HVS
(5c). Start below a narrow pillar, just right of the chimney,
and climb the pillar without resorting to holds on the adjoining
cracks.
3 Owl Crack
6m M
Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the left wall.
4 Twist
and Shout 6m MVS
(4b). Start immediately left of the corner and climb the thin
crack, which slants up left.
5 * TD
Corner 8m M (Tim Dale, 1973)
The corner of the bay is climbed on good hold. Beware of loose
rock at the top.
Puss in Boots 20m HVS 2008
An exceedingly fine rising traverse across the Ivy Crack wall. Mainly straightforward climbing, but with two bold, serious sections. Start at the foot of TD Corner.
(5a). Climb the corner for 3 metres, then foot traverse the obvious ledge rightwards, past an awkward section, until an ascent up and right leads to the ledge below the finishing crack of Smiling Through. With hands on the rounded, but dimpley break, traverse horizontally right to within 2 metres of the right arete of the wall. Climb the wall above, finishing rightwards.
BJ Clarke, Tanya Coates, 1st March 2008
Ten Years
After 8m E2 (Karl Lunt, Mick King, 26th October 1997)
(5a). Start one metre right of TD Corner. Climb the wall
past a horizontal slot (gear) to better holds, on the right, then
finish just left of the huge tree at the top.
This climb was also claimed as Treebeard by Paul Simpson in 2003.
Phallacy
8m E2 (Andy Margerison, Ian Lowis, May 1993)
A variation on Phal - seems like Ten Years After.
Start directly below the finish line at a slight break in the
overhang.
(5b/5c). Climb on to the first ledge and using a small two finger
pull-up, climb round the overhang using the ledge at 2m. Climb
onto the ledge and follow Phall to the top.
6 ** Phall 8m E1 (Phil Rigby, 1974)
(5b). A delicate wall climb without any protection. Start 3 metres right of TD Corner and climb gymnastically to a small ledge. Continue up and rightwards to finish on the right of the huge tree.
Phall Direct 8m E2
Start 4 metres right of TD Corner and climb to gain Phall and finish up this.
Smiling Through 10m E1 (Barry Clarke, Jane Metcalfe, Mick Bromley, 9th September 2004)
Fine wall climbing between Phall and Ivy Crack, but with a serious start. Start one metre right of Phall at a short-lived crack.
(5a). Follow the crack, then traverse right and up to a ledge. Step right and finish up the loosish but well-protected crack.
7 ** Ivy Crack 8m E1
Crack 3 metres left of drystone wall.
(5b). Now transformed enormously since the demise of a large tree at the base of the crack. Hard moves gain and overcome the crack. Continue awkwardly, slightly leftwards, to maintain interest to the top.
8 * Maid Marian's Way 8m E3 (Pete Whillance, 1975)
(5b). A very bold route starting just right of Ivy Crack climbing the wall direct, passing just left of the patch of rippled calcite, to gain better holds at the top. |
|
Dave Wilson on Ivy Crack (E1)
|
** Raindance
8m E3 (Chris King, Ron Kenyon, 5th October 2002)
(5c). This takes the apparently blank wall right of Maid Marian's
Way, but contains some surprisingly good gear placements.
Layback the initial overlap to gain the wall. Move up and slightly
rightwards.
|
Second Bay |
|
This is to
the right of the drystone wall, where a huge, three-stemmed sycamore
grows out of a ledge 2 metres up the right wall.
9 * Trilogy
9m E3 (Jeff Lamb 1975 (with runner in tree). Without tree runner,
but with side runners in Liang Shan Po, Karl Lunt, Andy Williamson, 8th April 1989)
(5c). A sustained climb with runners in Liang Shan Po.
Start just right of where the drystone wall meets the crag. Climb
bulging rock, to reach a rightward-slanting crack. Pull onto the
wall immediately left of this, then climb directly to an overlap.
Move left with difficulty into a short corner, just right of the
arete, and finish up this.
10 Liang
Shan Po 9m HVS (Ron Kenyon, Alan Stark, 1975)
Start as for Trilogy then follow the rightward-slanting
crack, without straying into Slipway. The overhang at the
top is the crux !
11 * Slipway
9m HS (Ron Kenyon, Ray Parker, Al Stark, 19th October 1975)
Start at the gnarled boss of roots below a fine, steep corner.
Climb up the sandstone band and follow the corner moving right
at the top to finish up a short wall
12 **
Bay Rum 9m VD (Ron Kenyon, 1974)
A good climb for its grade. Gain the ledge behind the three-stemmed
sycamore and climb the easy-angled corner leftwards to a steep
finish
Shining
Through 11m E1 (Barry Clarke, Ben Ledsom, 16th August 2005)
A fine, fingery exercise directly up the Nightride Wall,
with an unprotected crux at 4 metres.
(5c). Climb the centre of the wall to reach the finishing flake.
13 Nightride
9m VS (Ron Kenyon, 1974)
(4c). Climb the wall, just right of the corner of Bay Rum.
Move right to a small tree then leftwards on doubtful flakes to
finish
14 * Ged
9m MVS (Ron Kenyon, 1974)
(4c). Start 3 metres right of the three-stemmed sycamore. Overcome
the sandstone base and continue up the cracked wall above.
15 Double
Jeopardy 9m HVS (Karl Lunt (solo), 26th November 1988)
(5a). Start as for Ged then climb, carefully, up and rightwards
over two, big jammed blocks. Finish directly up the wall above.
|
Third Bay |
| This
is behind a huge yew tree.
16 * Steph
9m MVS (Al Hewison, Ron Kenyon, 1974)
(4b). A one move crux, but nevertheless a good climb. Start on
the ledge 2 metres right of the arete. A short, undercut groove
provides a difficult start, then move up easily and follow the
crack in the arete.
17 Crabstack
9m VS
(4b). Start as for Steph up the crucial groove, then move
right and finish up the steep crack above.
18 Tove
Wall 9m MVS (FA Ray Parker, Ron Kenyon, 19.6.1975)
Start on the ledge by a large thorn bush, right of Steph.
Climb the steep crack to the right of the thorn passing a small
ledge.
* Borderliner
9m E3 (Chris King, Michael Kenyon, Ron Kenyon, 19th October 2003)
(5c) .This route takes the pillar between Tove Wall and
Rune Wall - without using the cracks of these routes. Thin
moves above the initial overlap gain a horizontal crack - opeg
on the right. Move up left then right to gain a good flake crack.
Continue past a tree to an awkward finish.
19 Rune
Wall 9m HS (Ron Kenyon, Ray Parker, 19th June 1975)
(4a). A small thorn bush grows out of the base of a wide crack.
Pass the bush and continue up the crack, past a wedged block and
a tree.
20 * Headmaster
Ritual 9m E3 (Karl Lunt (unseconded), 7th June 1988)
(6a). A bold, fingery climb needing small wires. Between Rune
Wall and the corner of the bay is a tapering pillar. Starting
up a very thin crack climb the pillar to reach better holds near
the top.
21 * Percy
Throwup 9m S (A Stark, D Bowen, 19th June 1975)
Start at the corner of the bay and climb the steep, twin cracks
finishing either left or right.
22 The
Ring of Confidence 9m E1 (Karl Lunt, Tom Phillips, 28th December 1988)
(5b). 6 metres right of Percy Throwup the sandstone base
is undercut. Start just to the left of this and move rightwards
above the overlap to gain the edge of the wall. Pass a thread,
trending slightly leftwards, to finish up the wall above.
23 Fast
and Hideous 9m HVS
(4c). Start 6 metres right of Percy Throwup and climb a
steep crack, past a tree, to the bulge, Pull round this awkwardly
to the right.
24 Fickle
Flake 9m HVS
(4c). A steep and serious route starting 1.5 metres left of the
right arete of the bay. Climb the sandstone base and surmount
a bulge to gain the thin flake. Layback awkwardly, on doubtful
holds, to the top
25 The
Bulge 9m E1
Health warning with suspect rock! Poor protection and not recommended.
(4c). Start as for Fickle Flake, but move right below the
bulge and onto the arete. Ascend this on good holds.
|
Fourth Bay |
|
This is the
small bay with the prominent rightward slanting flake crack of
The Flake.
26 The
Small Assassin 9m VS (Karl Lunt (solo), 26th November 1988)
(5b). On the left wall of the bay is a prominent crack with a
tree at three quarters height. Overcome the sandstone band to
gain the crack, which is followed by passing the tree on its left
or climbing the wall on the right.
27 Bulging
Crack 9m HS
(4b). Climb the crack at the back of the bay, just left of The
Flake and finish up the corner at the top.
28 The
Flange 9m VS (Karl Lunt (solo), 26th November 1988)
(4c). Start as for Bulging Crack, however at the first
bulge, move right and climb the right edge of the large flake
to the top.
29 ** The
Flake 11m HS (Stew Miller, January 1974)
(4b). A popular route taking the obvious line of the great flake
seen when arriving at the crag. Gain the base of the flake and
move up rightwards awkwardly and continue with decreasing difficulty
up the groove above.
30 Scarlet
Lyvennet 11m MVS (Ron Kenyon, 1974)
(4b). Somewhat suspect rock on this route. Start right of The
Flake and climb the wall over an arch-shaped overlap to a
ledge. Move right and finish at the top of the arete.
31 * Babel
Towers 12m HS (Ron Kenyon, Ray Parker, 19th June 1975)
(4c). Start at the base of the arete right of The Flake
and climb this to gain a cracked groove. Continue up this then
move left to finish as The Flake.
Just for
Shirl 12m HS (Andy Margerison, May 1993)
(5a) Follow Babel Towers to the ledge (9 - 10m), but instead
of moving left, go directly up the slight bulge using the corner
of the bay wall to finish.
32 Bogey
Arete 12m VS
(4c). Start as for Babel Towers, however instead of moving
left at the top, finish up the arete on the right.
|
Fifth Bay |
|
This is the
main bay below which one arrives. The right wall is the most continuous
stretch of rock.
* Teenage
Kicks 12m HVS (Peter Simpson, 2003)
(5a). This take the righthand side of Bogey Arete. Start
just left of Kirsten Wall or at the left arete. Ascend
using a mixture of the wall, left of the crack on Kirsten Wall,
and the arete to finish steeply up the arete.
Variation
Finish E1 (Chris King, Michael Kenyon, Ron Kenyon, 19th October
2003)
(5b). A more difficult finish is to move right at the horizontal
crack, just below the top, and climb the wall on widely spaced
holds to finish.
33 ** Kirsten
Wall 12m HS (Alan Stark , S Ely, 19 June 1975)
An impressive looking wall is not as hard as it look though it
has a little sting in its tail.
(4b). Start 2 metres right of the left arete and climb an awkward
corner. Ascend the fine crack above then move rightwards to finish
at a tree.
Blinkered
Vision 11m HVS (Ron Kenyon, Alex Heron, 10th March 1996)
An eliminate taking the rock between Kirsten Wall and Trundle
Crack. The cracks adjoining should not be used apart from
a runner at the start on Trundle Crack.
(5b). Start at the base of Trundle Crack from where fingery
climbing leads to a rest at mid-height, Continue to the top with
interest.
34 Trundle
Crack 11m HS (Ron Kenyon, R Parker, M Sheldon, 19th June 1975)
(4a). Gain the ledge at the back of the bay and climb the crack
to the left of Leaning Crack.
35 Leaning
Crack 11m HS (Ron Kenyon, 1974)
(4a). Gain the ledge at the back of the bay and climb the corner
crack.
36 * Havnor
11m VS (Ron Kenyon, R Parker, M Sheldon, 19th June 1975)
Often overlooked but worth doing with excellent rock.
(5a). Start on the ledge at the back of the bay behind the tree,
just right of Leaning Crack. Climb the wall above trying
not to use the tree.
** Celadon 14m E2 (Karl Lunt (unseconded), 26th October 1997)
(5c). Start just left of Marik. Climb up to the large tree on the ledge. Surmount the bulge continuing in a direct line up the wall about 1metre left of Marik. Sustained but well protected and on good rock.
37 ** Marik 14m HVS FA (John Simpson, Dennis Hodgson, John Workman (with aid), FFA Ron Kenyon, 1974)
(5a). A superb climb, unfortunately getting polished now due to its popularity. Start below an obvious crack just right of the ledge at the back of the bay. Overcome the sandstone base and attain the crack (good gear) and climb this to a resting place. Finish either directly or easily moving right then back left again, just below the top.
38 The Windeye (Paul Carling, 1980s)
This once superb wall climbed the overhang and wall right of Marik at E3 (6a). However following the collapse of the sandstone base it has not yet been reascended. Good route waiting ?
39 Gont 14m E2 (Stew Wilson, Chris King, 1980s)
This route has similarly been affected by the collapse of the sandstone base. It originally climbed the centre of the overhang and the wall above on the right. The rock is not above suspicion.
(5b). The upper wall is now gained by climbing from the right and ascended to the top. |
|
Andy and Caroline Fanshawe on Marik (HVS)
Photo: Ron Kenyon
|
40 Windkey
14m E3 (Karl Lunt, John Wilson, Stew Wilson, 20th June 1987)
The stability of the rock on this route has been affected by the
collapse of the sandstone base. Strenuous and technical. Start
at the foot of the right-had arete.
(6a). Climb the sandstone base to a ledge. Move up leftwards to
a short, thin crack and climb this (crux) to better holds and
the wall above.
|
Sixth Bay |
| This
bay has a large beech tree growing on the path.
41 * The
Gebbeth 14m E1 (Alan Beatty, 1974)
(5b). A steep climb just right of the left arete. Climb up to
the roof. Pass this then continue up using discontinuous cracks
to the top.
42 Curvy
Crack 14m VS (Ron Kenyon, 1974)
(4b). Climb the curving crack to the left of the corner of the
bay.
43 Toolie
Corner 14m MVS (Ron Kenyon, 1974)
(4b). Climb the corner of the bay
44 Something
to Remember (Ron Kenyon, 1974)
This route took the crack in the wall right of Toolie Corner
at VS, but has now gone back to nature.
45 Titus
Alone 12m Ungradeable (Originally top roped - soloed by J
P de Rohan in wellies, 1981)
(5b). Health warning job - climb the right-hand arete.
|
Seventh Bay |
|
This is the
final section - do not go further right of the drystone wall to
the area behind the cottages.
46 Titus
Groan 12m E1
(5a). The obvious cleft - adventurous with the presence of several
tons of "hanging death". Start in the corner of the
bay and climb up the cleft. Using the right wall, bridge the left
wall up to the overhang. Overcome the overhang and finish up the
groove above.
Titus Again
12m HVS (Chris King, Steve Prior, Shaw Brown, 22nd April 2004)
This is the wall right of the cleft.
(5b) Move up steeply to gain the flake leading right to the arete,
just above a large tree. Climb the arete moving left at the top.
47 Flic-Flak
Crack 9m VS
(4c). Climb the wide crack, 6 metres right of Titus Groan.
48 * Crippling
Crack 9m S
Climb the corner 3 metres right of Flic-Flac Crack.
|
King's Meaburn
FIRST ASCENTS |
| 1970s & 1980s |
Details of climbing are vey sketchy until about 1973, but prior to this J. Simpson, J . Workman and D. Hodgson climbed Marik, using aid.
A couple of visits by R. Kenyon, T. Dale, A. Beatty and P. Rigby renewed interest and in this period many of the climbs were recorded. Ron Kenyon was instrumental in the first free ascent of Marik, a fine plum to pick.
The Gebbeth was ascended on a top-rope by Alan Beatty. Beatty soon led this route which was something of a 'Horror Show' at the time on account of the loose rock. This phase of development soon led onto the blanker walls, when Phil Rigby contributed Phall and Pete Whillance showed up to claim Maid Marian Way.
The two fine lines of Gont and Windkey were popular top rope problems. Gont was first led by Stew Wilson and Chris King, unbeknown to one another around the same period, not so Windkey.
Paul Carling was towed along to the crag by Stew Wilson and pointed at Windeye which he did in good style only to have mud thrown in his eye by certain locals who made the second ascent and placed a peg which Paul promptly removed.
Development in the latter part of the Eighties was entirely in the hands of Karl Lunt and friends. In June 1987, he solved a long-standing problem by leading the difficult Windkey in the company of John and Stewart Wilson.
One year later, Lunt led the Headmaster Ritual and in November 1988 several easier climbs were done after abseil cleaning, the best being Small Assassin. Three days before the end of the year, Lunt climbed The Ring of Confidence with Tom Phillips. In May 1989, Lunt accompanied by Andy Williamson led the old top rope problem, Trilogy but had to resort to side runners. |
| Early
1970's |
Marik |
(With
some aid) John Simpson, Dennis Hodgson, John Workman. Free,
Ron Kenyon 1974 |
| 1973 |
|
|
TD
Corner |
Tim Dale |
| 1974 |
|
|
Phall |
Phil Rigby |
| 1974 |
|
|
Bay
Rum |
Ron Kenyon |
| 1974 |
Jan |
|
The
Flake |
Stew Miller |
| 1974 |
|
|
The
Gebbeth |
Alan Beatty |
| 1974 |
|
|
Curvy
Crack |
Ron Kenyon |
| 1974 |
|
|
Toolie
Corner |
Ron Kenyon |
| 1974
|
|
|
Something
to Remember |
Ron
Kenyon |
| 1974
|
|
|
Scarlet
Lyvennet |
Ron
Kenyon |
| 1974
|
|
|
Nightride
|
Ron
Kenyon |
| 1974 |
|
|
Ged
|
Ron
Kenyon |
| 1974 |
|
|
Steph |
Al
Hewison, Ron Kenyon |
| 1974 |
|
|
Rune
Wall |
Ron
Kenyon, Al Hewison |
| 1974 |
|
|
Kirsten
Wall |
Alan
Stark |
| 1974 |
|
|
Trundle
Crack |
Ron
Kenyon |
| 1974
|
|
|
Leaning
Crack |
Ron
Kenyon |
| 1975 |
|
|
Maid
Marian's Way |
Pete
Whillance |
| 1975 |
|
|
Liang
Shan Po |
Ron
Kenyon, Alan Stark |
| 1975 |
|
|
Trilogy
|
Jeff
Lamb (with runner in tree). Without tree runner, but with side runners in Liang Shan Po, Karl Lunt,
Andy Williamson, 8th April 1989 |
| 1980s |
|
|
Gont |
Stew
Wilson, Chris King |
| |
|
|
Windeye |
Paul Carling |
| 1981 |
|
|
Titus
Alone |
Originally
top roped - soloed by J P de Rohan in wellies! |
| 1988 |
Jun |
7 |
Headmaster
Ritual |
Karl
Lunt (unseconded) |
| 1987 |
Jun |
20 |
Windkey |
Karl Lunt , John Wilson, Stew Wilson |
| 1988 |
Nov |
26 |
Double Jeopardy |
Karl Lunt (solo) |
| |
|
|
The Small Assassin |
Karl Lunt (solo) |
| |
|
|
The Flange |
Karl Lunt (solo) |
| 1988 |
Dec |
28 |
The
Ring of Confidence |
Karl
Lunt, Tom Phillips |
| 1993 |
May |
|
Phallacy
|
Andy
Margerson, Ian Lowis |
| 1993 |
May |
|
Just
for Shirl |
Andy
Margerson |
| 1996 |
Mar |
10 |
Blinkered
Vision |
Ron
Kenyon, Alex Heron |
| 1997 |
Jun |
|
Arete right of Maid Marian Way |
Barry Linsley |
| 1997 |
Oct |
26 |
Celadon |
Karl
Lunt (unseconded) |
| 1997 |
Oct |
26 |
Ten
Years After |
Karl
Lunt, Mick King |
| 2002 |
Oct |
5 |
Raindance |
Chris
King, Ron Kenyon |
| 2003 |
|
|
Teenage
Kicks |
Peter
Simpson
Variation Finish, Chris King, Michael Kenyon, Ron Kenyon 19th
October 2003 |
| 2003 |
Oct |
19 |
Borderliner |
Chris
King, Michael Kenyon, Ron Kenyon |
| 2004 |
Apr |
4 |
Titus
Again |
Chris
King, Steve Prior, Shaw Brown |
| 2004 |
Sep |
4 |
Smiling Through |
Barry
Clarke, Jane Metcalfe, Mick Bromley |
| 2005 |
Aug |
16 |
Shining
Through |
Barry
Clarke, Ben Ledson |
First ascent
details are required for the following:- Babel Towers, Bogey Arete,
Bulging Crack, Crabstack, Crippling Crack, Fast
and Hideous, Fickle Flake, First Wall Eliminate, Flic-Flak Crack,
Havnor, Ivy Crack, Owl Crack, Percy Throwup, Slipway, The Bulge,
Titus Groan, Tove Wall, Tree Chimney,
Twist and Shout.
|
| |
|
