|
O.S.Sheet 86
G.R. NY 527 427
This crag will be included in the next FRCC Eastern Crags guide (due 2008)
|
EDEN VALLEY
The Lazonby Outcrops
by Stewart Wilson |
|
|
FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB
of the
English Lake District |
|
| These important crags form the main feature of the Eden Gorge, lying on the west bank of the River Eden between the villages of Lazonby and Armathwaite. They consist of a line of separate walls and buttresses strung out along a length of two miles of river bank. There are three main groupings of outcrops with the central (and largest) group holding the best climbing and perhaps the single, most impressive sandstone crag in England .
The crags face east, away from the prevailing weather and this combined with their sheltered position in the Eden Gorge means that climbing is possible throughout the year. The rock dries quickly after rain.
The rock varies from a soft red type to a form which is almost gritstone-like in hardness. Sometimes all variations can be experienced in the course of just one climb. A peculiar feature of these crags are the presence of veins of harder rock which due to differential weathering, stand out as small ribs or sometimes as large protruding fins. Several climbs make use of these. A warning must be sounded with regard to protection on these climbs. As with all sandstone, great care must be exercised when placing runners. Trusting runners for long falls is to be avoided. In addition, damp rock tends to break much more readily than dry rock.
Lazonby has a unique and powerful atmosphere which can easily intimidate the first-time visitor. For the competent and experienced climber, coming to terms with the climbing here will give a taste of the best that the Eden Valley has to offer. Approaches & Access
The land on which the outcrops lie is part of the Lazonby Estate. There is a Public Right of Way along the foot of all the outcrops.This footpath is the Eden Gorge footpath on the West bank of the Eden between Lazonby and Armathwaite. Access to the crags was first negotiated with the Lazonby Estate in the late '70's, for 'bona fide' climbers. Unfortunately access has since been banned.
In case access is allowed again, the original access route is described. NB There is currently no right of access via this route. The best access point is from the road running above the Eden Gorge between Lazonby and Armathwaite.This is via a gated track marked on a sign as: "Lazonby Estate Route 3". Leave Armathwaite and head south from the village, passing under the railway. Turn left at the next junction and then left again very shortly at Coombe Eden. Follow this road for two miles to a junction near Baronwood Farm and a telephone box. Continue straight on over a cattle grid and, after a further half a mile, park on the wide verge on the opposite side of the road to the gated track of " Lazonby Estate Route 3 ". The track which leads downhill brings one to another gate. Pass through this and cross the Carlisle-Settle railway line. Turn right and follow a track past a circular stand of conifers on the right. This track leads to the top of Cave Buttress, easily identifiable by the many magnificent scots pines growing there. A gate in a recently constructed wooden fence is passed and the wide track curves steeply down below Cave Buttress to meet the riverside path (unfortunately this path is not a Right of Way).
As one faces the river immediately below Cave Buttress, the Far Upstream Buttresses are reached by turning right and following the muddy path alongside the river in an upstream direction. Wirewalk Buttress is immediately on one's left and the rest of the crags are downstream of this.
|
Far Upstream Buttress |
|
The easiest approach is to stay close to the river bank when walking upstream from the Cave Buttress area. The first rocks are met just before a large oak tree. Some lines have been climbed here, but the rock is composed of large detached blocks and cannot be regarded as safe. Some 50 metres further upstream, the crags gain height and are very vegetated and broken to begin with. The first climbs are located just beyond an elder tree growing from the foot of the crag. A huge, rectangular recess splits the upper part of the buttress. The climbs are described from right to left, moving upstream, in contrast to the climbs on the other buttresses ie. Cave Buttress and downstream of it which are described from left to right.
Care needs to be taken with the rock on the next six climbs as they have had very few ascents.
1. Stained Class 15m VS *
Follows the rib right of the rectangular recess.
(4c).
Climb a short groove to below a large roof. Move left to bypass this, then climb the crack and rib above, to finish at a tree.
2. Gothic Horror 15m VS
Start below and left of the rectangular recess.
(4b).
Climb the gardened wall, to gain the base of the recess. Follow the crack system up the left retaining wall. Move left, near the top to an exposed finish.
Moving upstream, the rock retreats once more beneath a cloak of vegetation. About 20 metres beyond Gothic Horror is:
3. Nemesis Towers 25m HS
Start to the right of a shallow gully below a large roof.
(4b).
Climb a groove to the roof then traverse left into the gully. A tricky move above here, gains easier ground which leads to the final overhang. Avoid this by finishing to the left.
The remaining routes are located on another buttress further left which is set up the bank at a higher level, facing somewhat upstream.
4. Far Above The Splat Mat 13m E1 *
Start near the right edge of the buttress at a shallow square niche.
(5b).
Climb the wall directly above the niche. Pull onto the undercut upper slab to finish awkwardly at a small pine tree.
5. Herbal Abuse 12m VS
Further left, the wall is pierced by a prominent cave.
(5a).
Gain this from below and slightly left. Finish up the interesting jamming crack above.
6. Snowball 12m VS
Start 3 metres left of a vegetated groove, left of Herbal Abuse.
(4c).
Climb the wall direct to a prominent, projecting block. Finish by moving right towards a tree.
NB: CLIMBING IS BANNED AT LAZONBY |
Cave Buttress
|
This should properly be called Samson's Cave Buttress as it is named after its one-time occupant; a fugitive Irish navvy employed on the building of the Carlisle-Settle line, who was eventually hunted down by the police for his part in the murder of another navvy during a drunken brawl at Armathwaite.The event is documented, possibly somewhat inaccurately, in a novel by the Lakeland writer; Graham Sutton.
The cave can be reached quite easily from the foot of the left-hand side of the buttress, and below an obvious big left-facing corner. A short scramble and a couple of tunnels lead to the comfortable cave.
The rock on this buttress can be rather soft in places, so care must be taken.
The first climb is located on a small, roofed buttress to the left of the scramble to the cave.
7. I Can't Breakdance! 8m E1 *
Start below the roof.
(5c).
Climb into a niche, then undercling the crack which splits the roof. A gymnastic pull round this leads to an earthy scramble off.
8. Demolition Dancing 12m HVS 5b
Start just left of the scramble to the cave.
(5a).
Climb the short corner above and move right to a ledge. From here follow the hanging rib to a landing on steep soil.
The next four routes are gained by scrambling up to the ledge below the big corner, as for the cave.
9. The Crack 12m S
The crack on the left wall of the open-book corner is climbed to a good ledge. Move right to an earthy finish.
10. The Corner 12m MVS
(4b). Climb the obvious steep corner.
11. Technical Ecstasy 12m E4 ***
A brilliant, sustained route - protection is good. The wall to the right of The Corner is split by a thin crack which runs the full height of the face.
(6a). Climb the crack to finish over a small roof.
To find the next route it is necessary to crawl through the tunnel into Samson's Cave.
12. The Fearful Void 12m E3 ***
An intimidating pitch with a wild finish! Start in the mouth of the cave and belay here (big thread).
(5c). Climb the pillar on the right of the entrance (facing into the cave ) for a few metres. Step left above the cave and traverse below the overhang to gain a crouching on the jutting neb of rock. Finish directly above here at a small tree.
The remainder of the routes on Cave Buttress are described moving right from the scramble to the cave. The ground slopes down and a number of small trees just in front of the crag are useful for locating climbs. 13. Dirty Old Pillar 9m S
Just right of the scramble to the cave is a crack which widens to a chimney.
Follow this past a thin birch tree to belay on the ledge above.
14. Sahara Crossing 20m HVS
Start two metres left of the first small tree at a winding flake crack.
(5a). Follow this until it peters out (thread out to the left ), then move up and left over a bulge. Climb up a few metres, then traverse right over soft rock to reach the cave. |
|
Colin Binks on Technical Ecstasy (E4)
Photo: Ron Kenyon
|
15. Cave Route 30m S
Start immediately right of the first tree.
1 15m. Climb up to and ascend the steep difficult chimney to the cave.
2 15m. Traverse right and ascend the loose chute, trending left to a tree belay.
16. Neanderthal Man 15m VS
Start midway between the second and third trees.
(5a).
Climb the wall to a ledge then ascend another wall to a ledge on the right. Enter the V-groove and follow this moving leftwards to the cave.
17. Pneumoconiosis 30m E3 *
A commiting and serious route. Start at a shallow groove in the centre of the buttress behind the sixth tree.
(5b).
Climb the the lower wall with ease.The overhang above is awkward and a pull-out left onto a wall can be made.Climb the wall trending left until better rock can be followed rightwards to a chimney up which the climb finishes.
18. Phred 30m VS (Aid)
Right of Pneumoconiosis is a large arch-shaped recess. Directly above this is a V-groove high up. Start right of this in another bramble-choked recess.
(4c).
Move leftwards below the corner-groove of Barney, but continue to traverse horizontally leftwards to reach the V-groove (2 pegs for aid ). Follow the groove, then move right to a tree at the top.
19. Barney 25m VS
Start in the bramble-choked recess as for Phred.
(4b).
Move leftwards to the corner-groove and climb it. To finish, either move out leftwards, or head right for a tree and climb a vegetated groove to the top.
20. Mandrax 18m S
Not a very pleasant experience! Start further up the slope where a large bulge has a short groove to its left.
Climb the loose groove.
21. Rattle and Hum 12m HS
Start directly below the large bulge.
(4b).
Climb up to this and pull out right to a ledge above. Ascend the front of the pillar above, direct.
The easy gully on the right divides Cave Buttress from Wirewalk Buttress. This gully provides a useful means of descent.
NB: CLIMBING IS BANNED AT LAZONBY |
Wirewalk Buttress
|
Known locally as Chain Rock, Wirewalk Buttress is the biggest of the Lazonby Outcrops. The majority of routes are steep, hard and most have a very serious feel to them - this is certainly no place for the faint of heart! In general, the rock is better on the upper sections than those near the river. However some climbs have good rock throughout, but then we are talking about sandstone! For purposes of description, Wirewalk Buttress can be regarded as having three sections: Upstream Face, River Face and Downstream Face.
The Upstream Face has a tree-lined ledge at half-height and is in full view from the approach path below Cave Buttress. The River Face rises directly out of the river and thus cannot be easily viewed, although in dry summer conditions a pleasant "plodge" will allow a cursory inspection of lines on the right side of the face. It is possible to traverse the foot of the face via a ledge and iron stanchions in all but flood levels. The Downstream Face is dank and uninspiring and thankfully only has one route.
Upstream Face
22. Red Barchetta 12m HVS
Across the gully, opposite Rattle and Hum, is a short rib. Start on the wall right of this and below a tiny overhang.
(5c).
Move up and left to a jug on top of the rib. Go up this to a ledge then climb the awkward chimney just left.
23. Fear Is The Key 12m HVS *
Start between the rib and the prominent corner at a shallow left-facing groove.
(5a).
Climb this past an overlap to a ledge, then finish up the short wall above.
24. Adam 12m S
Climb the obvious corner to the right. Exit up a short chimney on the left.
25. Virtually Part One 12m S
Start in the corner of Adam but climb the wall just right of it and finish up a short groove.
26. Mystery Achievement 15m E1 **
A bewildering crux which can be well protected using runners on the tree. Start at the foot of the arete next to a tree.
(6a).
Gain the top of the detached block, then make tricky moves up and left, round the arete. Easier climbing follows, moving right near the top for maximum exposure.
27. Pavane 13m E2
A bold route! Start below the obvious gully right of the arete.
(5b).
Scramble up, to reach the dog-leg crack on the left wall (good runners). From the top of this, launch up and left over a slight nose to finish straight up.
28. Eve 12m VD
Climb the loose gully in its entirety.
Moving right from Eve, the ground drops away and a ledge holding two small birch trees can be gained. The nearer of the two trees provides a useful belay for the next three routes, whilst the further one overhangs the void.
29. Footfall 9m E2 5c *
Start below the wide groove next to the birch tree belay.
(5c).
Climb the groove past an awkward bulging section to finish on good jugs.
30. Fingers 26m E1 **
A steep and fascinating climb, in turn, both bold and exposed. Start below the birch tree ledge 3 metres right of a burned stump.
1 13m (5a). Climb the wall direct on small holds to reach the birch tree ledge and belay. A bit short on protection!
2 12m (5a). Climb the impressive wall above the right-hand tree, past a horizontal break, to reach a crescent-shaped overlap. Step right from here to finish. A superb pitch!.
31. Eye In The Sky 12m HVS **
Enjoyable climbing in a stunning position. Start at the birch tree belay used by the previous routes.
(5b).
A gently rising traverse leads rightwards onto the exposed, blunt rib. Excellent protection can be arranged here, which makes the awkward moves up the rib more palatable. Finish on good jugs.
32. The Toe 6m VS
The isolated pinnacle on the slope below Fingers.
(5b).
Climb the arete facing the river. Hard to start.
River Face
An impressive piece of rock whose true proportions can only be fully appreciated from further upstream or from across the river.The left-hand side is merely vertical, whilst to the right of the incredible central groove of Merry Monk, the rock gently overhangs.
33. Silicosis 30m E1 *
A fine climb, marred slightly by the worrying nature of the first pitch. Start on a large, sloping shelf in a recess at the left-hand side of the face.
1 15m (5b). Climb the awkward, shallow groove then the crack to a ledge on the left. Care with rock!
2 15m (4c). Traverse right and ascend the gangway and corner to the top. A fine pitch.
34. Perilous Journey 30m E3 **
A tremendous route which saves its hardest moves until the end. A large Friend might help those in peril on the crux! Start to the right of the recess of Silicosis where a steep vein, slants up the left-hand side of the red wall.
1 15m (5b). Climb the vein, then move left to a creaky flake (runners). From the top of the flake, move left onto another flake. Enter a shallow scoop above this, then move up and right to a belay on a large ledge. Serious! NB The flakes on the first pitch have fallen (1990) and the pitch has not been climbed in its present state. However Pitch 2 is superb on its own.
2 15m (5c). Climb the groove directly behind the belay to reach a large jammed block. Pull through the overlap just left of this, then sprint up the leaning headwall, passing, amongst other things, some horizontal breaks (Friends!).
35. Inside A Cosmic Orgasm 15m E2
Contrived and hard to protect. On the first ascent a peg runner was used to protect the moves on and beyond the traverse. Start at the vein in the red wall.
(5b).
Climb the vein for a short distance until a finger traverse leads rightwards across the steep wall. Move onto the rounded arete and beyond. Climb the wall until one can move back left into a narrow but prominent groove. Climb this to a ledge and belay. Finish as for Gadzowt.
36. Machoman 15m E4 6a *
The free version of the old aided route Microman. A sensationally positioned pitch. Protection is good only where it is most needed. Start from the belay ledge shared by the previous two routes. Alternative starts are provided by the first pitches of Gadzowt or the Old Girdle (the easiest option).
(6a).
Climb a short rib on the right, as for Gadzowt, to arrive at the impending headwall below two parallel cracks. Climb the left-hand crack with increasing difficulty to the top.
37. Gadzowt 33m HVS
One of the easier climbs on the river face, but nevertheless an exposed climb which can prove thought-provoking. Start to the right of Perilous Journey below a short but very steep crack which opens out into a big, recessed bowl at 6 metres.
1 15m (5a). Climb the awkward crack then ascend the open groove to the overhang above (good runners - at last!). Traverse left under the overhang to a good ledge.
2 18m (4c). Climb the rib on the right to a ledge then move right and follow a short awkward crack to the top.
38. Tigerfeet 30m E2 5a
A serious route up an impressive wall. Unfortunately its finish, which it shares with Red Chipper, is a bit of a disappointment. Start below the wall to the right of Gadzowt.
(5a).
Climb the wall via a crack and continue up to a ledge below an overhang. Move right, to enter a short groove which leads up to the middle ledges. Climb the grooves above as for Red Chipper.
39. Red Chipper 30m E3 *
A good, steep and technical initial section gives way to very ordinary climbing above. Start 4 metres right of the cracked corner of Gadzowt, below the fine wide rounded crack which terminates tantalizingly out of reach.
(5c)
Gain the foot of the crack passing the eradicated chipped hold which gave the climb its name. The crack is not easy, but better jams soon lead to good handholds. Continue up the steep wall to the area of ledges. The grooves directly above lead logically, but disappointingly to the top.
40. Ace Of Wands 40m E3 **
A very fine and impressive climb with a technical and bold first pitch and an exciting finale. Start below the steep wall right of Red Chipper, just right of the H. Simmons inscription.
1 20m (5c). Climb the steep wall to a flat hold and peg runner below the overhang. Climb the overhang and move right to gain a ledge below a square roofed corner as for Hernia.
2 12m (4c). Climb past the overhang as for Hernia, and continue up the steep groove above until a long step can be made rightwards to a good foothold on the arete. Pull around to the right to a good ledge, below and to the left of the final pitch of Merry Monk.
3 8m (5b). Climb the impending crack above to a resting place in a corner. Surmount the overhang above to finish.
41. Hernia 30m E2 *
Strenuous and bold on the lower section. Start to the right of the H. Simmons inscription, below a steep crackline.
(5b).
Climb the wall then follow the crack to a ledge beneath the overhang. Move left into an overhanging corner where the overhang can be tackled strenuously on large dubious flakes. Easier climbing now leads to a ledge (possible belay), followed by an open corner to the top, finishing at two conifers.
42. Merry Monk Variations 33m VS *
The original climb on the crag, offering the easiest way up the River Face. Start as for Merry Monk, below the huge corner groove.
1 18m (4a). Climb the corner on good holds for about 12 metres, then move up and left across the wall to belay beneath a prominent oiverhang.
2 15m (4c). Move up to the overhang and pass this awkwardly to gain the corner above. This leads to the top, passing a number of unstable blocks.
43. Merry Monk 33m HVS ***
One of the finest natural lines in the North of England, offering continuous interest and exposure. Start below the obvious huge corner which dominates the centre of the buttress.
1 15m (4a). Climb the fine corner on large holds to a small stance by a crack which sometimes 'squeaks'.
2 12m (5a). Climb up the groove above to its top, moving right to gain a good ledge below a short steep wall.
3 6m (4c). The wall is awkward. Trend right to a tree.
44. Neptune 30m E4
An exciting climb with a steep and strenuous start. Start as for Cobweb.
(6a).
Climb the overhanging wall as for Cobweb, but swing left at 5 metres on flat holds. Continue up the steep face above with poor runners until a grassy ledge is reached (junction with Cobweb). Climb the green flaky face above till a red section is reached. Climb leftwards across this to a shallow groove and follow this to a small pine at the top.
45. Cobweb Wall 34m E3 **
This climb was made famous by the 'photoclimb' of Tom Proctor making the first ascent in a climbing magazine. Powerful climbing at the start has resulted in many attempts and fewer successes.
Start 5 metres right of Merry Monk below an optimistic break; a right-facing groove, out of reach and breaching the grossly overhanging wall.
1 16m (5c). Climb the wall to gain the right-facing groove. Exit rightwards to gain the crack which is followed on good jams. Climb past a loose block to a good ledge. Peg belay (not in situ).
2 18m (5a). Pull onto the wall above and move rightwards to gain and climb a short but awkward chimney-groove. Exit on the right.
46. Why Flymo When You Can Napalm? 30m E5?
A steep and exhilerating route with a wild finale. Start four metres right of Cobweb Wall at an iron stanchion.
(6b).
Pull up to a peg runner at 3 metres then swing left and climb straight through the roof (crux) past peg runners onto a short wall. Move up into a right-facing corner capped by an overhang (peg runner) and pull straight over this and up to a grassy ledge. Step left 4 metres and climb the wall above trending slightly leftwards until below the final overhang. Climb this past two peg runners using brittle holds and finish via a large protruding spike.
An aided route, Symbad Wall, ascended the overhanging wall between Cobweb Wall and The Swinger. Two pegs were used to gain the ledges and cracks were followed rightwards to the tree belay on The Swinger.
47. Variations On A Swinger 35m E3 *
A good climb, once the indifferent rock on the crux has been negotiated. A Friend 3.5 could prevent a splash landing!! Start at the third iron stanchion of the old wirewalk (counting from the downstream end).
1 26m (5c). Climb strenuously up a bulging crack into a niche. (Friend 3.5 above). Traverse left with difficulty on soft rock to reach a small sloping ledge. Pull onto the ledge and reach a doubtful block. Climb the small overhang and crack above on better rock. From the top, move right and belay at a tree below a chimney.
2 9m (5a). Climb the chimney to the overhang, then gain the slab on the left. Ascend this moving right to the finish.
48. King Of The Swingers 9m HVS 5b *
Provides a more direct finish to Variations On A Swinger. Start from the belay ledge of that route.
(5b).
Climb the chimney to the overhang and continue bridging and jamming up the crack to good finishing jugs.
49. The Swinger 30m HVS
An interesting route with good situations. Start at the tree at the right-hand end of the River Face.
1 21m (5a). Climb the tree to a point some 5 metres up and level with a ledge above the river. Gain this by a swing on good handholds. Traverse the ledge and climb the wall above, moving left slightly, to a tree below the wide chimney.
2 9m (4c). Finish as for pitch 2 of Variations On A Swinger.
50. Suspended Animation 30m E2 **
A fine route with an impressive finale. Start just up the slope from the large tree at the downstream end of the River Face.
1 18m (5b). Climb up and left to reach the base of a wide crack on the arete of the buttress. Climb the crack almost to its top, then step left onto the face. Climb straight up to belay on a ledge.
2 12m (5c). Move up and left to reach a short thin crack leading with difficulty to a jammed block below the overhang. Traverse left to a large pocket below the widest part of the roof. Pull over this moving rightwards on excellent holds to the top.
51. The Mole 25m HS
Start below the broken crack several metres up the slope from the large tree of Swinger.
(4b).
Climb the wall to a sloping ledge. Crawl through a chimney and ascend the groove and crack to a tree belay at the top.
Moving downstream from here for about 100 metres one comes to a steep face with a barrier of overhangs at head-height. This is Wend Buttress. Above and left of Wend Buttress is a fairly scrappy wall, Overgrown Buttress.
NB: CLIMBING IS BANNED AT LAZONBY |
Overgrown Buttress
|
|
A scrappy wall with two unremarkable climbs.
52. Bucket And Spade Job 12m VD
Climb the groove system at the left-hand side of the buttress. Move right to finish.
53. Compost Wall 12m S
Start below a corner at the right-hand side of the buttress. Climb directly up to meet the corner then follow this past a tree at mid-height to finish by a tree at the top.
NB: CLIMBING IS BANNED AT LAZONBY |
Wend Buttress |
|
Wend Buttress can be reached by following the riverside path downstream for 100 metres beyond Wirewalk Buttress. This face is fairly attractive and is recognisable by a barrier of overhangs at head-height on the left-hand side, and by a large chimney at the other end.
54. The Horror 15m E3 *
A couple of brutish bulges provide all the fun. Reasonable protection can be arranged with a selection of camming devices. Start below the prominent bulges at the left-hand end of the buttress.
(5c).
Climb the wall to a ledge below and left of the lower bulge. Launch out rightwards over this and finally tackle the overhanging wall above.
55. Savage Rib 15m HVS 5b *
Enjoyable gymnastics without the ferocity of The Horror. Start just right of The Horror under the lowest bulge.
(5a).
Climb up to and straight over this bulge. Move right to gain the rib and follow this to a tree belay at the top.
56. One Of The World's Many Problems 15m HVS *
An enjoyable pitch whose main problem lies in getting off the ground! Start below and right of the corner crack at 5 metres.
(5b).
A hard pull over the bulge gains the corner which is followed to a tree belay at the top.
57. Cream Cracker Wall 20m HVS
A worrying climb which weaves its way up the wall to the right. Start 3 metres right of One Of The World's Many Problems, at the next jagged protruding vein of rock.
(5a).
Use the vein to gain a slab above, then move left and climb the steep wall on flaky holds. A rightwards traverse on suspect rock gains a long ledge. Climb the steepening wall above to a heathery landing just left of the twin-stemmed birch tree.
58. Trundle Wall 18m VS
(4c).
Climb the wide crack immediately left of a steep mossy slab to reach a sloping ledge. the steep upper wall leads to an awkward heathery landing between the two trees at the top of the buttress.
59. Pseudonym 13m S
Starts at a wide groove at the right end of a smooth mossy wall.
Climb the wide groove, then make a rising traverse right above bulges. Finish up the wall above. Pleasant.
60. Swing Off 12m E3
A bold and commiting lead. Start below and right of the obvious large bulges.
(5c).
Climb the short cracks, then cut loose, up and left over the bulge, to gain easier territory above.
61. Al's Chimney 10m HS
(4b).
Climb the obvious dirty chimney at the right-hand end of the buttress.
Some 200 metres downstream of Wend Buttress, a steep path drops down the hillside to meet the riverside path. This path comes down from the approach path leading to Cave Buttress and Wirewalk Buttress in the vicinity of a copse of conifers and provides the quickest approach to the next two buttresses, H.F.L Buttress and Evening Buttress, which are located on either side of this path at its junction with the path running along the west bank of the Eden between Lazonby and Armathwaite.
NB: CLIMBING IS BANNED AT LAZONBY |
H.F.L. Buttress |
Located on the upstream side of the junction of the paths, H.F.L Buttress presents a small compact buttress whose main feature is a prominent right-facing corner. A vegetated ledge extends along the lower part of the crag some 3 metres above ground level.
62. Scorpion 9m HVS
Start at the left end of the vegetated ledge at a short wide crack.
(5b).
Climb the crack to a shelf and pull right onto the face. Follow the left edge of the face to an awkward bulging finish.
63. Mij 9m S
Start on the ledge below a groove which contains a tree low down. Climb the groove.
64. Electric Avenue 15m HVS **
A sustained and well-protected outing. Start on the ledge below the impending front face of the buttress.
(5b).
Climb straight up past a square-cut nick and over several overlaps.
65. Cellnet 15m E1
Start below the big right-facing corner of Teragram.
(5b).
Climb the corner until it is possible to move left onto the hanging rib. Follow this with a hard move to reach the birch tree at the top.
66. Teragram 15m S
Gain and follow the big right-facing corner to a loose finish.
67. Lip Service 15m VS *
Start below the right edge of the slab which extends out rightwards from Teragram.
(4c).
Climb the edge of the slab then a short flake crack gaining the left end of an overlap. Traverse right on the lip to a sapling and finish straight up.
68. The Neighbourhood Bully 12m E1 *
A gymnastic little pitch. Start directly below the sapling on the traverse of Lip Service.
(5b).
Climb easily to the big roof and pull over this. Good holds lead to the sapling. Finish direct.
NB: CLIMBING IS BANNED AT LAZONBY |
Evening Buttress |
Evening Buttress is a small overgrown buttress on the downstream side of the junction of the paths.
69. Jamboree 6m S
Climb the jam crack on the left side of the buttress.
70. Moonlight Sonata 7m HS
Climb the groove right of Jamboree to a niche and a vegetated finish.
71. Sunflower 6m VS
(4c).
Climb the clean rib to the right of Moonlight Sonata to a tricky finish.
NB: CLIMBING IS BANNED AT LAZONBY |
Aviator's Buttress |
Aviator's Buttress is the small buttress that lies a short distance downstream from Evening Buttress and is set well back from the path. In appearance it consists of a flat vertical wall split by several horizontal breaks. Towards the left-hand side of the buttress is a vertical vein of rock which runs the full height of the crag.
72. The Right Stuff 8m E1
Start 2 metres right of a large detached block at the left-hand side of the buttress.
(5b).
Climb a flake crack to a bulge. Pass this using the tree above to finish.
73. The Cockpit 8m VS
(4c).
Climb the prominent crack, 5 metres right of the detached block.
74. Red Square Dare 11m E1
Start further right, below a crack in the overhang.
(5a).
Climb the crack in the overhang to gain a niche. From here, step left onto a bulge, then climb the wall above direct.
NB: CLIMBING IS BANNED AT LAZONBY |
Gumbo Buttress |
Gumbo Buttress is the next buttress encountered downstream in about 5-10 minutes walk from Aviator's Buttress.The buttress is reached by a short steep scramble up the hillside. The main feature is an unclimbed right-slanting corner bounded on the right by a steep and attractive slab. A superb dry cave is located under the crag, to the left of the corner.
75. Look To The Future; Its Only Just Begun 24m HVS?
This climb finds a way up the steep but relatively broken wall, 6 metres left of the obvious corner. Start below a small tree.
(5a).
Climb the rib and move right to the tree. The wall above is climbed and a mantelshelf onto a ledge provides the crux. Move rightwards up ledges to a short wall and circumnavigate it by devious moves left, then right, along ledges. Climb a short groove above to finish at a tree.
76. Gumbo Variations 18m HVS?
Start at the foot of the obvious corner.
(5a).
Climb the corner until it is possible to hand-traverse leftwards across the left wall and onto the front of the buttress. Traverse left and climb up to a tree belay. Climb the corner above to finish.
77. Sisyphus 21m VS?
Start to the right of the obvious corner, and beyond the smooth slabs, below a cleaned corner.
(4c).
Climb the wall to a ledge. Move right to pass a tree, and move back left to stand on a jammed block. Gain the ledge above and move right to another ledge. A ramp on the left is gained with difficulty. Follow this to escape on the right. Tree belay.
NB: CLIMBING IS BANNED AT LAZONBY |
Isolated Buttress |
Isolated Buttress is a tall impressive buttress which rises directly above the good riverside footpath less than 100 metres downstream of Gumbo Buttress. The routes have possible only had one ascent as the area was placed out of bounds in the last guide. The climbs have not been re-checked and so caution should be exercised on account of possible undergrading. The rock is very soft millet grain sandstone which does improve the higher one climbs. However the blocky nature of the upper face is also potentially hazardous. The main feature of the buttress is a long corner crack which is the line of Catastrophe Corner.
78. J.J. 18m VS?
(4b).
Climb the corner to the left of Catastrophe Corner.
79. Catastrophe Corner 24m HVS?
Scramble up to the foot of the buttress below the corner crack.
(4c).
Climb loose rock to a ledge below the steep crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge, and continue up a narrow chimney which leads to a small ledge on the right. Move right to the top.
80. Rat Salad 30m HVS?
The upper face is seamed by a central groove which has two branches. This climb gains the right-hand groove from the left. Start 6 metres left of a small cave.
1 15m (4c). Climb up and right to a large ledge. Traverse right (peg runner advised) and mantelshelf onto a ledge. Climb the wall above to another ledge and move right to a belay.
2 15m (4c). The groove above is quit in favour of the loose right-slanting wall.
A Variation Start has been made up the wall above the cave, using bolts for aid, to join the normal route at the mantelshelf.
81. Insanity Groove 24m VS?
Start below the corner at the right-hand side of the buttress.
(4c). Climb an awkward wall to gain the foot of the corner. Climb the corner with care, negotiating a small overhang to reach a ledge. Continue up the loose corner to the top.
NB: CLIMBING IS BANNED AT LAZONBY |
The Walls |
The Walls are a series of small faces extending downstream from Isolated Buttress as far as the big meander in the river which is dominated by the huge face of Red Rock on the opposite bank. Below the face, just before the meander, is a low cave which has metal boat-mooring ring embedded in the rock nearby.
82. Gone 12m S
Start to the right of a V-groove which cuts through the roof above the cave. Climb directly towards a large oak at 6 metres, but, before reaching the tree, traverse horizontally left and make a hard move over an overlap. Move up past a small larch tree and scramble off.
Two other climbs were made hereabouts: Mr Woo (S) and The Gripe (VS), but a recent earthslip has obliterated them.
Going downstream from here, the large face of Red Rock on the far bank is most impressive and has been ascended in one place but no records exist. Further downstream the west bank beyond an open meadow, is Cat Clint, a tall pillar of rock. Some routes have been climbed but not recorded.
NB: CLIMBING IS BANNED AT LAZONBY |
Lazonby
FIRST ASCENTS |
| 1970s |
The Lazonby Outcrops have long been commented on by climbers as they are blatantly obvious to all who pass along the footpath of The Eden Gorge Walk between Lazonby and Armathwaite, one of the finest walks of the type anywhere in the U.K. The first climber to consider the rocks for climbing was John Simpson in 1969. He returned to the Wirewalk Buttress in 1970 and along with John Workman, Alan Beatty and Dennis Hodgson, all from Penrith, climbed Gadzowt (because it goes out! ) and Merry Monk Variations. John Workman in turn, lured a young and impressionable Ronnie Kenyon to the crag one evening in 1970 and after repeating Merry Monk Variations, Ronnie was so "smitten" that he returned with John Aldridge and Barrie Dixon in December and climbed Merry Monk with a deviation at mid-height. Kenyon and Beatty returned in Christmas week of 1970 to produce Cream Cracker Wall, The Old Girdle and Cave Route . Early in 1971 Barrie Dixon and Alan Beattie added two very impressive climbs which showed up the potential of the crag. These were Silicosis and Pneumoconiosis. The impending right-hand side of the River Face had to wait until September of 1971 before it was breached by The Swinger.
The Winter of 1971/72 saw an interest in the other buttresses downstream of Wirewalk Buttress and One Of The World's Many Problems climbed at the optimistic grade of Severe by Al Beatty the original "Beast-Master" was one of the best. Phil Rigby began to make his mark on these crags about this time and was always in on the action. It was he along with Beatty and Kenyon who "opened-up" the Isolated Buttress by climbing Catastrophe Corner in January 1972. This was an ascent of epic proportions involving a near catastrophe with a large loose block near the top of the chimney. Gumbo Variatins was another Rigby route dating back to February 1972. Isolated Buttress and Gumbo Buttress have been left alone since the publication of the last guide due to the area being deemed to be "Out Of Bounds". It may now yield more secrets?
Tim Dale another young Penrith climber entered the fray and along with Alan Beatty and Phil Rigby made up what was probably the most formidable team in the Eden Valley at this time. Hernia on the Wirewalk was their work and at the end of 1972, Tim and Phil forced the exciting finale of Microman. Another of their climbs was Cobweb Wall which like Microman used aid from pegs. In March 1973, Bill Lounds and Stew Wilson straightened up Merry Monk to produce what is now one of the "Classics" of the North of England. On the same day Phil, Tim, Stew and Bill top-roped The Horror. In 1974, Phil Rigby and Stew Wilson climbed Inside A Cosmic Orgasm. This was not an outstanding climb but it certainly pointed the way forward in terms of the more technical climbing to be had on the crag. At about this time, the secret was leaked to the Carlisle climbers and the talents of Jeff Lamb and Pete Botterill were brought to bear on this hitherto insular situation. Pete padded up Tigerfeet and Jeff made a typically fine ascent of Red Chipper eradicating the blatantly chipped hold in the process. In 1975 Phil Rigby produced the superb Fingers, an exciting excursion onto the fine exposed headwall of the Upstream Face of Wirewalk. The route which marked the end of this early development is perhaps Ace Of Wands, which was climbed by a very strong team consisting of Phil Rigby, Ron Kenyon and Dave "Dids" Bowen. This was in 1978. Since the publication of the 1980 guide, the number of climbs on the Lazonby Outcrops has almost doubled. Karl Lunt a Lancastrian "exiled" in Carlisle in the mid to late 1980's was the undoubted local expert at Lazonby. He systematically blitzed the crag, dispensing with aid points, leading top-roped problems and creating superb and commiting new routes. Karl got things off to a fine start with Technical Ecstasy which he climbed in April 1986. It was by far the hardest climb on the crag at the time and several recent ascents have confirmed its quality. On his first attempt Karl took a fall from the top of the pitch and hit the ground on the rope stretch. Luckily, his second, Chris Crowder was belayed to a 'Friend' or the outcome may have been more serious. In October 1987 Lunt and Andy Kay produced The Fearful Void which finds a way through the big roofs above the cave on Cave Buttress. On the same day they found Eye In The Sky, a good day's work. The leaning wall of Microman attracted Karl's attention and in 1988 this was climbed without pegs and completely free to give the exciting Machoman. At this time Seb Grieve was poking about at Lazonby and with the aid of a reluctant and ageing second produced Neptune. Not to be outdone, Lunt made a bid for The Horror and succeeded in leading this old top-rope problem in the company of Andy "Lurch" Williamson in May 1989. Seb Grieve retorted in July 1989 with the hardest route at Lazonby: Why Flymo When You Can Napalm? It still awaits a second ascent. |
| 1969 |
|
|
Merry Monk Variations |
J.Workman, J.Simpson |
| 1969 |
|
|
Gadzowt |
A.Beatty, D.Hodgson |
| 1970 |
Dec |
19 |
Merry Monk |
R.Kenyon, J.Aldridge |
| |
|
|
Climbed by moving right and then back left. Direct up corner - now normal. W.S.Lounds, S.Wilson, 3rd March 1973. |
| 1970 |
Dec |
27 |
Cave Route |
A.Beatty, R.Kenyon (alt.) |
| |
|
|
Adam |
R.Kenyon |
| |
|
|
Eve |
R.Kenyon |
| 1970 |
Dec |
29 |
The Crack |
R.Kenyon, A.Beatty |
| |
|
|
The Mole |
A.Beatty |
| |
|
|
Cream Cracker Wall |
R.Kenyon, A.Beatty |
| |
|
|
Al's Chimney |
A.Beatty |
| 1971 |
|
|
Cave Corner |
B.Dixon |
| |
|
|
Silicosis |
B.Dixon, A.Beatty |
| |
|
|
Pneumoconiosis |
B.Dixon, A.Beatty |
| |
|
|
The last two routes marked a new breakthrough in difficulty. |
| 1971 |
Sep |
26 |
The Swinger |
A.Beatty, R.Kenyon |
| 1971 |
Sep |
26 |
Trundle Wall |
P.Rigby, R.Kenyon (alt.) |
| 1978 |
Jan |
15 |
Swing Off |
R.Fawcett. |
| |
|
|
Originally done as a top-rope problem by Phil Rigby, 26th September 1971. |
| 1971 |
Dec |
27 |
Pseudonym |
A.Beatty |
| 1972 |
Jan |
2 |
One Of The World's Many Problems |
A.Beatty, P.Rigby, R.Kenyon, J.Workman |
| 1972 |
Jan |
16 |
Phred |
B.Dixon, R.Kenyon |
| |
|
|
Bucket And Spade Job |
R.Kenyon, P.Rigby |
| |
|
|
Compost Wall |
R.Kenyon |
| 1972 |
Jan |
22 |
Catastrophe Corner |
P.Rigby, R.Kenyon (alt.), A.Beatty |
| 1972 |
Jan |
29 |
Insanity Groove |
R.Kenyon, P.Rigby |
| 1972 |
Feb |
5 |
Rat Salad |
P.Rigby, R.Kenyon |
| |
|
|
Bolt Start to Rat Salad, R.Kenyon, 1972 |
| 1972 |
Feb |
14 |
Sisyphus |
A.Beatty, R.Kenyon, T.Dale |
| 1972 |
Feb |
19 |
Gumbo Variations |
P.Rigby (unseconded) |
| 1972 |
Mar |
4 |
Virtually Part One |
P.Rigby, T.Dale, R.Kenyon |
| |
|
|
Teragram |
R.Kenyon, P.Rigby, T.Dale |
| 1972 |
Mar |
10 |
Neanderthal Man |
R.Kenyon, P.Rigby (alt.) |
| 1972 |
Mar |
27 |
Jamboree |
R.Kenyon, T.Dale |
| |
|
|
Moonlight Sonata |
R.Kenyon, T.Dale |
| |
|
|
Climbed by moonlight! |
| 1972 |
Apr |
30 |
Mij |
R.Kenyon, J.Kilduff |
| |
|
|
Barney Left Finish |
R.Kenyon, J.Kilduff |
| 1972 |
Dec |
26 |
Barney Right Finish |
R.Kenyon, T.Dale, S.Laws |
| 1972 |
|
|
Dirty Old Pillar |
S.Wilson, P.Hope |
| |
|
|
Hernia |
T.Dale, A.Beatty, P.Rigby |
| |
|
|
Cobweb |
P.Rigby, T.Dale |
| |
|
|
Aid used. Freed by T.Proctor, A.B., B.D, 10th August 1974. An historic ascent, recorded as a photoclimb in Rocksport Magazine. |
| 1972 |
Dec |
30 |
J.J. |
B.Miller, R.Kenyon |
| 1973 |
Oct |
13 |
Mandrax |
R.Kenyon, S.Wilson |
| 1973 |
Dec |
22 |
Look To The Future Its Only Just Begun |
R.Kenyon, A.Miller |
| 1974 |
Jan |
13 |
Inside A Cosmic Orgasm |
P.Rigby, S.Wilson |
| 1974 |
Jan |
19 |
Mr Woo |
R.Kenyon, M.Sheldon |
| |
|
|
The Gripe |
R.Kenyon, M.Sheldon |
| 1974 |
Feb |
13 |
Tigerfeet |
P.Botterill, J.Lamb |
| 1974 |
Spring |
|
Gone |
A.Yarrow, S.Wilson |
| |
|
|
Direct Start added by R.Kenyon, 12th April 1986. |
| 1975 |
Jul |
26 |
Fingers |
P.Rigby |
| |
|
|
Pitch 2 only. Pitch 1 was top-roped. K.Neal led pitch 1 in 1979/80. |
| Mid 1970s |
Red Chipper |
J.Lamb |
| |
|
|
Lamb enforces a sterner ethic in the valley! |
| 1978 |
|
|
Ace Of Wands |
P.Rigby (pitches 1 & 2), R.Kenyon (pitch 3), D.Bowen |
| 1978 |
|
|
Variations On A Swinger |
P.Rigby, D.Bowen |
| |
|
|
Used a resting point on a nut. FFA K.Lunt, A.Williamson, 8th April 1989 |
| 1986 |
Mar |
15 |
Fear Is The Key |
K.Lunt, C.Crowder |
| |
|
|
Mystery Achievement |
K.Lunt, C.Crowder |
| 1986 |
Apr |
11 |
Lip Service |
C.Crowder, K.Lunt |
| |
|
|
Electric Avenue |
K.Lunt, C.Crowder |
| |
|
|
Savage Rib |
K.Lunt, C.Crowder |
| 1986 |
Apr |
12 |
Suspended Animation |
C.Crowder, K.Lunt. (alt.) |
| |
|
|
Sahara Crossing |
C.Crowder, K.Lunt |
| |
|
|
An early attempt of The Fearful Void. |
| 1986 |
Apr |
14 |
Technical Ecstasy |
K.Lunt (unseconded) |
| |
|
|
Second attempt following a near "groundfall" from the final moves. |
| 1986 |
May |
27 |
Perilous Journey |
C.Crowder, K.Lunt (alt.) |
| 1986 |
Sep |
7 |
Scorpion |
K.Lunt, N.Frowe, M.Carter |
| 1987 |
May |
3 |
Snowball |
G.Dawson, K.Lunt |
| |
|
|
Herbal Abuse |
K.Lunt, G.Dawson |
| |
|
|
Far Above The Splat Mat
|
G.Dawson, K.Lunt |
| |
|
|
Cellnet
|
G.Dawson, K.Lunt |
| |
|
|
The Neighbourhood Bully
|
K.Lunt, G.Dawson |
| |
|
|
The Right Stuff
|
K.Lunt, G.Dawson |
| |
|
|
The Cockpit
|
K.Lunt, G.Dawson |
| |
|
|
Red Square Dare |
G.Dawson, K.Lunt |
| 1987 |
May |
30 |
I Can't Breakdance! |
K.Lunt, I.Makin |
| |
|
|
King Of The Swingers |
I.Makin, K.Lunt |
| 1987 |
Aug |
2 |
Stained Class |
K.Lunt., S.Williamson |
| 1987 |
Sep |
16 |
Gothic Horror |
A.Kay, K.Lunt |
| |
|
|
Nemesis Towers |
K.Lunt, A.Kay. |
| 1987 |
Oct |
1 |
The Fearful Void |
K.Lunt., A.Kay |
| |
|
|
An apt name, taken from the title of the book by Geoffrey Moorhouse about his attempt to traverse the Sahara; as much an examination of inner feelings as a journey! |
| |
|
|
Eye In The Sky |
K.Lunt, A.Kay |
| 1988 |
May |
12 |
Demolition Dancing |
K.Lunt., Miss S. Oliver |
| 1988 |
Sep |
11 |
Machoman |
K.Lunt, N.Ibberson |
| |
|
|
Originally climbed on nuts and one peg for aid and recorded as Microman, by T.Dale, P.Rigby (varied leads), 13th december 1972. |
| |
|
|
Footfall |
K.Lunt, N.Ibberson |
| 1988 |
Oct |
29 |
Rattle And Hum |
K.Lunt (solo) |
| |
|
|
Red Barchetta
|
K.Lunt (solo) |
| |
|
|
The Toe |
K.Lunt (solo) |
| |
|
|
Sunflower |
K.Lunt (solo) |
| 1988 |
Dec |
31 |
Neptune |
S.Grieve (unseconded) |
| 1989 |
Apr |
4 |
Pavane |
K.Lunt, M.Tomlinson |
| 1989 |
Apr |
8 |
The Horror |
K.Lunt, A.Williamson |
| |
|
|
Originally done as a top-rope problem by W.Lounds, T.DALE, S.Wilson, P.RIGBY, 3rd March 1973. |
| |
|
|
Variations On A Swinger |
K.Lunt, A.Williamson |
| 1989 |
Jul |
5 |
Why Flymo When You Can Napalm? |
S.Grieve (unseconded) |
|
| |
|
