Located on the lower south-eastern flank of Wild Boar Fell in Mallerstang; the upper valley of the River Eden, Aisgill is a most impressive ravine containing many crags, however the best lie relatively low down, only a couple of hundred metres west of Aisgill Farm, at which it is advisable to seek permission to climb (though now on access land this may not now be necessary (to check !!). From the farm, ascend a track on the north side of the beck, on CROW Access Land onto the fell and under the railway viaduct, carrying the famous Carlisle-Settle railway. Continue along a track towards the ravine then via slopes to below the crag.
The first and most impressive crags are on the north side of the gill, facing south.
The Main Face is obvious and up to twenty metres high. To its right is a short steep wall (Right- Hand Buttress) and further up the ravine is buttress with a prominent nose of rock, just before a bend right (Left- Hand Buttress).
Some stakes have been left in situ however these appear to be of dubious stability. It is best either to bring stakes or make use of the trees at the top of the crag.
The routes are described from right to left as one enters the ravine
Right-Hand Buttress
This buttress is to the right of the Main Buttress with solid rock and is less attractive.
Colonel Biffo 12m VS 1982
(4a). The steep chimney/crackline.on the right of the buttress
Time Being 13m E3 * 1992
(5c). The crack in the face right of Shark's Fin Soup leads with increasing difficulty to a roof. Swing over this to finish. Bridging out onto a branch reduces the grade.
Shark's Fin Soup 13m VS 1982
(4c). Start right of a prominent fin of rock, just right of a crackline, and ascend to a ledge. The fin is followed up to the final wall.
Grand Designs 17m E3 *** 1992
(5c). Follow a rising ramp in the left side of the main wall rightwards to a shallow groove. Traverse left a few metres to better holds, then pull up to a short crack at the top. Move right to a small tree and lower off this with tape/krab.
Soft Target 13m VS 1992
(4c). Climb the left edge of the wall using a hollow-sounding pillar. Continue past a small tree to belay at the top of the gully on the left.
Main Buttress
The highest buttress in the centre of the crag reaching 20 metres in height. A convenient ledge goes along its base.
On The Footplate 20m VS 1980's
(4b). The more broken face to the right of the right arete on the right flank of Main Buttress.
Full Steam 20m E1 ** 2006
Start below a wide chimney/crack at the left of the gangway below the Main Buttress.
(5b) Climb the chimney crack then exit left past a tree stump to below an overlap. Move right and surmount the overlap to gain a ledge. Continue up a wide crack and crack in wall above, with use of slightly dubious flakes to the top. Belay on tree to right
Raising Steam 20m HVS 1987
(5a). The obvious central crackline, with a peg for protection and interesting layback leading to a ledge. Final crack has a potentially lethal block below an overlap.
Photo: Chris King on the first ascent of Full Steam (Ron Kenyon).
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The Navvy 8m VS 1982
Even one of the first ascentionists is not sure where this goes. It is either the obvious prominent corner on the Left Hand Buttress or the corner crackline left of Raising Steam - still to be sorted
(4c). The cracked corner on the left.
Left-Hand Buttress The Aisgill Experience 13m E2 2006
Start to the left of a broken rib left of a prominent corner (possibly The Navvy).
(5b) Climb the crackline to a ledge below an overlap. Traverse left (Rock 3 in small vertical crack, half way along, where the break widens) with a long step to a foothold and gain the hanging corner, left of the prominent nose. Finish up the corner.
| Between
1982
and 1987 |
The Navvy, On The Footplate, Shark's Fin Soup, Colonel Biffo |
R.Kenyon, S.Wilson |
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Raising Steam |
Stew Wilson, Stu Ferguson |
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Originally called Angel in the Centrefold. |
| 1987 |
Sep |
13 |
Shark's Fin Soup |
Andy Kay, Karl Lunt |
| 1992 |
Jun |
14 |
Time Being |
Geoff Dawson, Karl Lunt |
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Grand Designs |
Karl Lunt, Geoff Dawson |
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Soft Target |
Geoff Dawson, Karl Lunt |
| 2006 |
Jun |
? |
Full Steam |
Chris King, Ron Kenyon |
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The Aisgill Experience |
Chris King, Ron Kenyon |
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