This is the most impressive of all the buttresses at Scratchmere Scar, has the best rock, the best and longest climbs and is the point of arrival at the crag. The buttress projects out of the hillside and presents a short face towards The Leaning Tower. The front face is longest and has a large birch growing out of the face just above head height. To the right of the birch is a very steep wall with roof at mid-height providing short, hard problems finishing on a good ledge above, whilst the right-hand wall has a fine flake crack providing one of the best routes here: Greta's Climb.
12. Extraction 10m HVS *
A good climb at the lower limit of the grade. Care needs to be taken in the placing of protection. Start from an embedded flake just left of the left-hand arete of the front face.
(5a).
Climb the arete on flat holds to a recess below an overhang. Continue up the rib above via a square hole.
13. Out Of The Dark 14m VD *
A good climb with a steep start and a sympathetic conclusion. Recommended. Start at the left arete. Pull up steeply and struggle onto the top of the flake. Traverse right for about 4 metres to a corner by the birch. Climb the corner which is easy and move onto a ledge on the right. (stance and possible belay on nuts). The shallow corner on the left is the easiest escape.
14. Into The Light 11m E1
Another good climb whose main interest lies in the smooth wall below the final roof. Unfortunately it moves left to finish. Start one metre right of the left arete.
(5b).
Climb onto the top of the flake and gain a small ledge above. The middle of the steep wall is climbed on small holds to the horizontal break beneath the roof. Traverse left under the roof to finish up the last few metres of Extraction.
JK suggests: Into the Light E1 5b: Unless side runners are used in neighbouring routes, serious climbing at E2 5c, considerably harder for the short.
15. Upright Pavement 11m NL
(5c). The direct finish to Into The Light, straight over the roof.
JK suggests: Upright Pavement NL 5c: Harder than 5c - suggestions?
16. Peanuts 12m E1
This climb accepts the challenge of the attractive left-facing, shallow corner below the roof, but disappointingly, exits right. Start one metre right of the left arete as for Into The Light.
(5b).
Climb onto the flake and move easily right to gain the top of a block below the shallow, left-facing corner. Climb the corner which is technical and fine and move out right below a small overlap to gain the obvious left-slanting crack (Stormy Petteril) to finish.
JK suggests: Peanuts E1 5b: An odd route I'd give E1 5c but some people find it much harder.
Both this and Into the Light lend themselves to top roping, and an on-sight lead is quite a necky undertaking hence suggested upgrades.
17. Stormy Petteril 12m HVS **
At the lower end of the grade, but a fine climb with a slippery-feel to the rock in the higher section. Start directly below the big birch tree on the face.
(5a).
Climb the vertical, fist- wide crack to gain the birch. Easy rock above leads to a slim crack trending left to the top of a pedestal block. Swing left on smooth holds to gain and finish up the fine, left-slanting crack above.
To the right of the birch is a smooth wall split by a central groove. The wall is capped by a small roof. This section provides four short but technical climbs on impeccable rock:
18. Overdose 6m NL *
Start just left of the central groove and below a "stoneground" smooth wall.
(6c).
Climb the wall to the roof. The wall above the roof is green-streaked and provides a desperate sequence involving long reaches and some pretty "nifty" footwork.
19. The Black Streak 6m E2 **
A much sought-after and attractive problem.
Start at the central groove.
(6a).
Climb the groove to the roof and surmount this to finish up the shallow, dimpled, black-streaked scoop.
20. Milligram 6m E1 ***
Magic! The original and best climb on the short wall. Start one metre right of the central groove directly below the slim, hanging flake crack.
(5b).
Climb direct to the roof. Gain the flake and proceed carefully to the top.
To the right of Milligram, the wall bends round to the right and gain height.
21. Scratch 7m E4 6b **
Sustained and devoid of runners. The landing could be better. Start 2 metres right of Milligram and just right of the blunt arete of the lower wall. Climb the right-hand side of the arete to a horizontal pod at half-height. From the pod move up the steep wall above, but slightly right to benefit from presence of the odd edge here and there.
JK suggests: Scratch E4 6b: Has become considerably more chipped in the last 2 years.
To the right of Scratch, the ground at the foot of the crag steps up via a pedestal of rock.
22. Greta's Climb 11m HS **
One of the original climbs and still one of the best. Strenuous and a bit bold. The finish is superb. Start from the top of the pedestal block to the right of Scratch.
(4b).
From the top of the block, layback boldly up the flake crack to gain a good ledge. From the point of arrival on this ledge, it is possible (and necessary) to reach a good horizontal break in the smooth wall above (runners). Swing right along this (exciting) to reach a groove and good finishing holds.
23. Don't Worry 9m VS
Start one metre right of Greta's Climb below a groove and a cave recess.
(4c).
Climb the groove to the cave. Finish direct on good holds or right at a similar grade.
24. Be Happy 9m HVS 5b
Rather contrived but still worthwhile. Start to the left of the obvious birch tree 2 metres right of Don't Worry. Climb the wall behind the tree using a thin crack and the right-hand edge of the cave.
The crag to the right of Be Happy is broken and of no interest for ten metres. A large oak tree above the face is a landmark hereabouts.
|
