This is the section of the crag to the right of the drystone wall beyond the cottage of Windmore Green.
When approaching from the gate between Windmore Green and Windmore End Farm it is the first part of the crag to be reached. This is probably the best section of the crag, with good compact rock, although there is some loose rock on the top few feet of some of the lines. It hosts a good selection of harder climbs and micro-nuts are "de rigeur".
86. Light Bulb 6m VS
Start one metre right of the drystone wall.
(4b).
Climb the face at a faint crackline.
86a. Samoon 6m
Start 3 metres right of the stone wall.
(5a). Follow a hairline crack past a small bulge at half height.
Karl Lunt, 4th September 1999
87. Smoke Ring 6m S
Start 4 metres right of the drystone wall. Climb to a sloping ledge, then trend right to the top.
88. Far Groove 6m VD
Start at a groove just right of a blunt rib. Climb the groove.
89. Windy Nook 6m D
Climb the more pronounced corner just right of Far Groove.
90. Flake Crack 6m S
Climb the short layback crack right of Windy Nook. This leads to a ledge.
The crag now forms a long steep wall, overhanging at its left-hand end and offering good climbing on the best rock at Windmore.
91. Anticlimbax 7m VS **
(4c).
Climb the overhanging crack left of the bulging wall into a short corner.
91a. No Problem E3
(5c). Climb the bulge between Anti Climbax and Rebel without a Pause.
Steve Crowe (solo), 13 June 1996.
May be the same as:-
91a) Dogless Boulder 7m 6a (probably 6b for shorties)
The overhanging wall left of Rebel Without a Pause from the small corner at ground level. A very long reach from the seam to an obvious vertical slot high up left and another hard(er) move to reach a jug just up to the right, then easier to the top.
Nigel Thomas (solo), 27th September 2002 (Probably climbed before)
92. Rebel Without A Pause 7m E3 ***
Start below a thin crack to the right of the bulging wall.
(5c).
Climb this to the top. Superb.
93. Viva Garibaldi! 8m E2 **
Start 3 metres right of Rebel, below a small arched overlap at 2 metres.
(6a).
Climb straight through the overlap to good holds then move up and left across the wall to the finish of Rebel.
94. Alverton 9m E2 **
Start just right of the arched overlap at an indefinite groove line.
(5c).
Climb this for a few metres then pull out left onto the wall and head for the finish of Rebel. Largely made redundant by Rebel and Strangeways.
94a. Low Level Traverse
(5c). Traverse
leftwards from Alverton to Windy Nook. Excellent.
Nigel Thomas (solo), 27th September 2002
95. Strangeways 7m E3 **
(5c).
Climb the indefinite groove as for Alverton but continue directly up the wall above.
The wall to the right is smooth with few identifying features.
96. Rock And A Hard Place 7m E3 **
Start 3 metres right of Alverton. A small "T" is scratched on the rock near ground level.
(5c).
Climb direct to a tiny arched overlap in the centre of the wall and continue up the steep wall above. Bold and unprotected.
97. Touching The Void 7m E2 **
Start 4 metres right of Alverton.
(5b).
Climb the wall following a hairline crack to a steep finish. Another bold climb.
98. Chill Factor 7m E3 *
Start 3 metres left of the thin crack of Becher's Brook below a very shallow groove.
(5c).
Climb this then the steep upper wall rightwards on fragile holds.
99. Becher's Brook 7m HVS **
Start 6 metres left of the grassy corner (Grassy Crack) at an obvious thin crack.
(5a).
Climb this and either pull left through the overlap to finish or move right to a ledge.
100. Squeeze My Lemon 7m VS
(5a). Climb the wall 2 metres right of the crack of Becher's Brook. Trend slightly right to a ledge near the top.
101 Lime Street 8m S
Start 2 metres left of Grassy Crack and follow a left-trending weakness to the top.
102. Wall Street 7m VS
(4b). Climb the slab immediately left of Grassy Crack.
103. Grassy Crack 7m VD *
Climb the grassy corner. A pleasant climb.
104. Beanz Meanz....... 7m E2 *
Start one metre right of Grassy Crack.
(5b).
Climb directly up the pillar which is split by a hairline crack.
105. Wind Power 7m HVS **
Start 3 metres right of Grassy Crack.
(5b).
Follow a thin, right-trending crackline.
106. Windy Moss 7m S
Start 6 metres right of Grassy Crack below a small ledge at head height. Gain this ledge then climb the wall above.
107. Windy Miller 7m HVS
Start 2 metres right of the small ledge of Windy Moss.
(5a).
Climb the wall direct.
108. Wind Breaker 7m VS
Start further right, below the next more obvious feature; a thin crack system.
(4c).
Climb this wall.
109. Wall Of Wind 7m HVS *
Start at the smooth wall right of the thin crack system.
(5b).
Climb this on small incut holds.
110. Sue's Route 8m VS **
(4c). Climb the crack which slants up right and which is the most prominent feature hereabouts. The loose block at the top needs care.
111. Hurricane Force 8m E2 *
Start 3 metres right of Sue's Route at a tiny groove.
(5b).
Climb this groove to a sloping ledge then enter a scoop below the roof. Step left to finish.
112. C.90 8m E1 **
(5b). Climb the thin crack which runs straight up the wall five metres right of Sue's Route.
113. Crozzly Wall 8m E2 *
Start just right of C.90 at some small, stepped overhangs.
(5b).
Pull over these and climb the wall direct on mosaic-work rock.
114. Tamalin 8m E2 **
(5b). Climb the wall 2 metres right of the stepped overhangs, using thin discontinuous cracks.
115. Speeding Like A Jet 8m E3 **
Start a further metre right where the wall is split by a vertical hairline crack.
(5c).
Climb this with some difficulty.
116. April Fool 7m HS
Start below a downward-pointing flake 2 metres right of Speeding Like A Jet.
(4c).
Climb the wall above the flake, moving right to a tiny ledge. Finish direct.
The crag continues further right. Several problems have been done but are unrecorded. |
