The following is adapted from the article that first appeared in the FRCC Journal 2002. Some slight errors have been corrected, and extra material added.

WINTER CLIMBING IN THE LAKE DISTRICT 1870–1941

A list of first recorded ascents and early attempts

Compiled by Mike Cocker & Colin Wells

Introduction
In an article published in the F&RCC Journal in 1997 (F&RCC, Vol 26, 76, pp 197 – 213) one of the authors attempted to indicate the extraordinarily high standard of winter climbing which pre- Great War Lakeland climbers achieved (including routes up to Grade V). The intention was to draw attention to the fact that Lakes -based climbers had effectively reached '1950s' standards of 'Scottish' style mixed winter climbing a good half-century before these became commonplace north of the border. What the article was not, was an exhaustive list of first winter ascents of the period, a task which required a considerable amount of further historical sleuthing.  Since the original work was published, continued archival ferreting has unearthed a plethora of extra evidence of early winter ascents embedded in journals, logbooks, and reminiscences. The new data both confirms the original thesis that the Lake District (rather than Scotland) was the arena in which technically difficult winter climbing was first practised regularly in the UK, and also corrects some inaccuracies concerning the dating of some ascents and dramatis personae present in the 1997 article.

The research indicates that a small and tight knit group undertook many of the earliest winter climbs (up to the early 1890’s) and, fortunately, recorded their activities quite carefully. So we probably have a reasonably accurate record of the very first ascents for this period. After the late nineteenth century, however, when the numbers of participants start to expand, the data becomes 'fuzzier' and we are sometimes less confident that the 'first recorded' ascents really are 'the first ascents'. Some activists (such as the excessively modest Hopkinsons, for example) took a dim view of recording anything at all, and may have been up to all sorts of things a year or two ahead of their peers. Nevertheless the data still undoubtedly posses a sufficiently robust general chronology to prove that the standard of winter climbing was very high at a very early period in climbing history.

An opportunity has also been taken in the current review to extend the record up to the Second World War. This has thrown up further surprises, such as the discovery that the first Grade VI mixed climb was evidently accomplished as early as 1919 - decades earlier than previously considered likely. And unlike the Victorian and Edwardian periods, the documentary record for the inter-war era has been augmented by interviews with some of the surviving pioneers from that time. Indeed the authors would particularly like to thank the two outstanding winter pioneers of this period, Jammy Cross and her late husband Sid, for their hospitality and forbearance as they were quizzed about their activities. We would therefore like to dedicate this article in honour of the memory of Sid, one of Lakeland climbing's great pioneers and characters.

Sid Cross

Lakeland Winter climbs: A list of first recorded ascents 1870-1941

1870 JAN 10th              SOUTH GULLY   -  BOWFELL    (Grade I )

                                     G.H. Wollaston, A.R. Stogdon, J.Stogdon.

                                     The very first recorded winter ascent in the Lake District.

The group set off from Elterwater on a clear morning with a sharp frost to climb Bowfell by “ the great couloir” and then continue on to Wasdale Head. John Stogdon takes up the story:

            “The slope got steeper and steeper, steps were always necessary, and at last having come up 350 feet or more, we found ourselves within a few feet of the top on a slope of 63º, with an overhanging cornice of ice above us, and snow nearly up to our waists for a few feet below the top, which I could just reach with my axe.  The next few minutes must have been pleasant to my friends below me, as the cornice was gradually tumbling upon their ears in a shower of icy fragments.  Then I pulled myself up by my hands on to the level snow field above, and a short run up easy slopes soon bought us to the top.”

Stogdon, J.  1870,   “ The English Lakes in Winter”,

                                  Alpine Journal, 5,  34-38.

1873  MAR                  SHARP EDGE  -  BLENCATHRA    (Grade I)

                                     George Seatree and party

                                     First recorded winter ascent.

            “ In March 1873 a party of us ascended when the first part of the steep slope from the edge to the summit was snow and ice covered.  In those days there were no ice axes or ropes used, and in fact we came very close to a serious accident by reason of the conditions.”

Seatree, G.  1910,  “Reminiscences of Early Lakeland Mountaineering”,

                               F&RCC, Vol 2, 1, 8.

1880 APR 4th               CUST’S GULLY  -  GREAT END    (Grade I )
Arthur Cust and over twenty members of the Alpine Club. Who said crowds on Great End were anything new?  First recorded winter ascent (but almost certainly ascended prior to this by Cust)                            “ On Sunday the party…….leaving the carriages at the farmhouse above Seatoller, climbed Scafell Pike by a very interesting chimney or couloir, which, being filled with snow and ice, gave unexpected satisfaction.  There is a very remarkable natural arch in the couloir, which Mr Cust claims to have been the first to discover, and he was therefore entrusted with the guidance of the party.” Freshfield, D.W.   1882,  “Alpine Meeting at the Lakes”,                                          Alpine Journal, 10, 45. (A.L.Mumm and J.E. King glissade down Cust’s Gully in 1882.)		Early pioneers on Great End

1881  EASTER               MICKLEDORE CHIMNEY  -  SCAFELL (Grade III)

                                        A.L. Mumm

                                        First recorded descent.

Mumm’s article contains an account of the descent of the chimney, he also comments:

            “ What we……were keen about was first finding steep snow slopes, preferably hard enough for us to cut steps in and pretend we were in Switzerland and secondly, getting as long a glissade as possible on the way home.  The gullies on Great End provided the largest amount of amusement of the former kind, and I once remember having a sitting glissade down Cust’s Gully.”

Mumm, A. L.  1924,  “ Some Rambling Recollections of Wasdale Head”,

                                   F&RCC, Vol 7, 3, p 325 - 329.

1882  EASTER               DEEP GILL – SCAFELL (Grade I/II)

                                        A.L.Mumm,  J. E. King

                                        First recorded descent.

            “ In a time of extremely deep snow two men, both strangers, walked down the snow the whole way without knowing they had done anything remarkable.”

Slingsby, W. C.  1903,  “Reminiscences of a Few Days Climbing in the Fell Country”,
                            
                                     F&RCC, Vol 1, 3, 253 – 260.

            “ I did, in fact, know exactly what I was doing, and had learned enough about Wasdale to be well aware that to find Deep Ghyll choked up with snow must be a very rare occurrence.”

Mumm, A.L.  1924,  “Some Rambling Recollections of Wasdale Head”,

                                    F&RCC, Vol 7, 3, p 325-329

1885  MAR 1st              PILLAR  (Unknown, but possibly including Great Doup /West Cove Gullies Grade I)

                                      W.C. Slingsby, J.A. Slingsby, W. Ecroyd, G. Hastings & C. Hastings

            “ Found the snow in most splendid order, were five hours climbing gullies and couloirs around the Pillar Rock.”

Jackson, H.M. 1980, “ Lakeland’s Pioneer Rock Climbers”  - Based on

                                     the Visitors' books of the Tysons of Wasdale Head,

                                     1876 – 1886.  (Row Farm )                         

1886  MAR 27th             PILLAR (probably the same gullies as above)

                                       G.Hastings, J. Mason, W.C. Slingsby

            “ Had a capital day on the Pillar Fell amongst the snow couloirs, though in thick mist.”

Wasdale Hotel Visitors' Book 1885 – 1891, p. 44

1886  MAR 28th             DEEP GILL  -  SCAFELL   (Grade  I/II )

                                       G. Hastings, J. Mason, W.C. Slingsby

                                       First winter ascent and first ascent.                                    

Detailed account in:

Slingsby, W.C.  1903,  “Reminiscences of a Few Days Climbing in the Fell Country”, F&RCC, Vol 1, 3, 253 – 260.

(On March 2^nd 1885 W.C. Slingsby and G. Hastings had attempted Deep Gill but, “ fail on the first block on account of the ice glazed rock”.

Slingsby, W.C.  1903,  “Reminiscences of a Few Days Climbing in the

                                      Fell Country”,

                                      F&RCC, Vol 1, 3, 253 – 260.)

(Second ascent in winter conditions, J.W. Robinson and T.G. Creak 7th January 1887. Wasdale Hotel Visitors' Book 1885 – 1891 p. 107)

1886  MAR 29th             BRANCH GULLY – GREAT END  (Grade I )

                                       G. Hastings, J.Mason, W.C.Slingsby

 First recorded winter ascent, may have been climbed earlier.                                   

            “ The same party made a variation on Mr Cust’s Gully on Great End. They made first for the great or central gullies up which one of this party and a friend had climbed on Easter Monday 1884, but as during the previous night about four inches of snow had fallen on the old hard snow, it was deemed to be unwise to attempt such a steep and awkward gill so they turned to the smaller gully.  A grand glissade could have been made from the mouth of the gill down almost to the footpath below. The party cut their way with axes steadily forward and instead of going up through the natural arch of rock, which looked most weird through the mist, they turned up the right hand branch, and after one short awkward climb over a fallen block of rock, and a fairly steep snow slope they found themselves on the top in a furious snow storm.  A few good glissades and a scramble down the side of Grain’s Gill ended a most enjoyable mornings adventure.”   W.C.S.

Wasdale Hotel Visitors' Book 1885 – 1891 p. 46.

1887  JAN 4th              WATERFALL GULLY  -  PILLAR  - Attempt (Grade IV)

                                    J.W. Robinson, T.Creak.

                                    A near successful attempt on a grade IV climb.

            “ The deeply drifted snow gave us easy passage over the first fall, and in a few minutes the upper fall was before us, a solid column of hard ice.  This was so vertical, and as no opportunity presented itself of gaining support from the wall of the ghyll, progress was no easy matter.  Steadily cutting step over step with a deep notch for hand holds, we were able to get within six feet of the top – when down came darkness, and we quickly realised that we must make tracks at once or spend the night in that uncanny place.”

Robinson, J.W.  1907,   “A Novice in Snow”, 

                                       F&RCC, Vol 1, p. 16.

1887  JAN 4th             GREAT DOUP GULLY – PILLAR  ( Grade I )

                                    J.W. Robinson, T.G.Creak

First recorded winter ascent, but probably climbed earlier (see Slingsby on Pillar, March 1885 above).

            “ Mountains covered with ice and snow.  Ascent of Pillar via Great Doupe, very tough near the top owing to frozen snow and the cornice.”

Wasdale Hotel Visitors' Book 1885 – 1891 p 107.

                        “ We now decided to try our luck up the Great Doupe, for the moon was beginning to show and the light increasing.  Formidable indeed, as we looked up, was the steep snow slope at the head of the hollow, surmounted by an immense cornice.

            “ Shall we want the rope?” I asked.

            “ Oh no, it’s in the sack and it won’t help us!”

I did not feel at all sure about this, as, unable for the moment to get any further, I crouched under the great protruding lip of the cornice, and looked into the black and uncertain depth below.

            “ Can we get out,” I said.

            “ We must, so here goes, hold my feet on this big step whilst I try to cut down the overhanging edge.”

Ten minutes more, a struggle, a gasp, and breathless we emerged into the moonlight of the Pillar – 6.30 p.m.  We scurried away to Wasdale, and never were climbers more thankful for their suppers.”

Robinson, J.W.  1907,  “ A Novice in Snow”,

                                        F&RCC, Vol 1, p 16.

1887  FEB 5th              CENTRAL GULLY – GREAT END  (Grade II/III) G.Hastings and party (including some or all of the following C.Hastings, J. Mason, J.A. Slingsby, C.H. Slingsby, A.E. Preston, H.A. Beeching.) First recorded winter ascent, but may have been climbed earlier. An entry in the Visitors' Book in 1886 March 29th, for example, mentions that Central Gully had been climbed at Easter 1884 by Slingsby or Hastings. However, without a record of the conditions we have no way of knowing if this was a winter ascent.             “ Climbed up Great End by the Central Chimney which starts at the head of the long scree close to Grains Gill.  The snow came well down onto the scree, and was in good order; we took the left-hand branch and had to take to the rocks to overcome the “block”.  We then crossed over the Pikes to Mickledore, the rocks of which were very wet.  The early part of day was very wet, snowed hard while we were in the “Central Chimney” and did not cease until we got on to Scafell, when it cleared up, and we had a glorious view of the mists rolling up out of the valleys, and disappearing leaving all the hills quite distinct.” Wasdale Hotel Visitors' Book 1885 – 1891 p 108. (Second recorded winter ascent J.W. Robinson, E. Carr, G.Hastings, E.Peile and W.A. Wilson. 1890 December 26th or 27th.)  “ The central gully in Great End took about 2 hours with the help of the steps cut by Mr Robinson’s party a day or two before in the magnificent upper ice-fall.  Without their assistance it would perhaps have been barely possible within the limits of a winter day.” R.C. Gibson, 28th December 1890. Wasdale Hotel Climbing Book 1890 – 1919, p 38.
		Central Gully on Great End, ca 1890 (FRCC Abrahams Brothers collection).

1887  MAR 7th                SKEW GILL – GREAT END  (Grade I/II)

G.Hastings and party (including some or all of the following E.L.W. Haskett-Smith, C. Hopkinson, W.C. Slingsby)

First recorded winter ascent, but may have been climbed earlier. 

            “ Ascended by Skew Gill, a very interesting and neat cut to the north face of Great End.  We climbed, duly roped together the western gully on the north face by the snow, and turned up the left of the two forks (Cust’s Gully) and after many hundred steps had been cut in the hard snow by our axes, we went through the well known arch of rock and, after one hour forty minutes step cutting we stood in the sunshine on the top of Great End.  After a short walk along the top we looked down the fine Central Gully, and Hasting’s pointed out to us the steps he had cut on the ascent of this gully on February 5^th.  After a capital glissade, we made our way over the moors to Stickle Tarn to attempt the ascent of Pavey Ark by the Central Gully.”

Wasdale Hotel Visitors' Book 1885 – 1891 p 111.

            “ To go by Grainy Gill and this one  [Skew Gill], and so up Cust’s Gully, has for many years been the regulation expedition for the first day of a winter sojourn at Wastdale Head.”

Haskett Smith W.P.  1894,  “Climbing in the British Isles ”, p 144.

1887 Dec 30th               SCAFELL PINNACLE - SCAFELL (attempt)
Attempt by C. Hopkinson, H. Woolley, H.W. Holder, E.W. Bury.

"Three of the party, led by Hopkinson, made an attempt on the Deep Ghyll Pinnacle from the entrance to Lords Rake. They succeeded in climbing 150 to 200 feet, but were stopped by a steep slab of rock covered in ice. From this point, however, a good traverse was made to the first gully, or chimney, on the left. They forced their way up this gully to the top of the chimney. At the top of which was a trough of ice about 30 feet long, surmounted by steep rocks glazed with ice, which brought the party to a stop. They descended the chimney again and returned to Wasdale, unanimous of the opinion that the day's excursions had afforded one of the finest climbs the party had ever accomplished"
Wasdale Head Hotel Visitors Book 1885-1891, p168

Herman Woolley probably made the entry in the visitor's book. O.G. Jones refers to this ascent in his book " Rock Climbing in the English Lake District", and records that the Hopkinson party climbed up the Pinnacle face until they were forced leftwards into what is now known as Hopkinson's Gully, which they subsequently descended. Although the exact line the party took has never been determined, this ascent has become part of British climbing mythology, variously described as "one of the greatest tours de force that will always be spoken of with bated breath" and "an expedition second to none in the history of English rock climbing". Al Phizacklea, author of the current Scafell guidebook, after reading the original account, believes that the Hopkinson party never went onto the Pinnacle face. He suggests that they climbed the lower tier of rock, starting near the memorial cross, up to the Pinnacle Terrace, and then traversed left into Steep Ghyll, which was ascended as far as the narrow chimney, just above where Slingsby's Chimney Route climbs out on the right. This latter-day explanation fits well with the original route description and is probably the more accurate interpretation of events. Although its originator admits to a degree of disquiet at the debunking of such established climbing tradition.

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