FRCC - Rock Climbing

THE CLIMBING SCENE


From large mountain crags to varied valley crags; bolted slate and granite quarries to limestone outcrops; seaside sandstone to pleasant riverside outcrop and much more - that's climbing in the Lake District.

The distinctive pinnacle of Napes Needle, on Great Gable, witnessed historic ascents over a hundred years ago and since then Lake District climbing has developed way beyond that practised by the pioneers based at Wasdale Head Hotel at that time. Over the years routes have been created and now for its size the Lake District must have one of the most varied concentration of routes in the world.

Climbs of all grades are available and the companionship on crags can be enjoyed. An ascent of the classic mountain severe of Tophet Wall on Great Gable is done adjacent to the spectacularly steep E5 of Supernatural. Bridge's Route, another classic severe on Esk Buttress, can be enjoyed whilst nearby are the challenges of the awe-inspiring Cumbrian at E5 and Fast and Last and Always at E7. In the valleys the many easily accessible crags such as Shepherds Crag and Falcon Crag in Borrowdale, Raven Crag in Langdale and Buckbarrow Crag in Wasdale give many challenges at most grades required.

Man has left his mark on the Lake District - infact the whole of the area has been shaped by activities such as sheep farming and quarrying. Rock is still quarried in the area however the old quarries now provide new challenges for climbers. The potential of these quarries was first appreciated in the early 1980's with the development of Hodge Close.

Rock climbing styles are dictated by the nature of the rock - in the Lake District there is a wide spread of rock types. The core of the central crags is based on the igneous Borrowdale Volcanic Series however in addition there are extrusions of granite and gabbro. To the north the soft Skiddaw Slates give limited climbing and the rounded domes "back o'Skiddaw" are the preserve of the fell walkers and runners however in the south east the Silurian slates give different challenges now exposed with years of quarrying to produce the likes of Hodge Close and the Black Hole (Cathedral Quarry). To the south and to a lesser extent in the north of the area limestone scars throw out steep challenges and on the coast to the west, at St Bees, and in the Eden Valley to the east permian sandstone gives different problems.

The attention of visiting climbers to the area is usually held by the main central Lake District crags. Around the area are a number of outlying crags - Chapel Head Scar, St Bees and Armathwaite - which now provide useful alternatives both in their own right and as wet weather alternatives.

The Lake District has been a destination to visit from throughout the world. and for many years it has been a place of interest and recreation. Many writers and artists have found inspiration here - Wordsworth, Southey and Coleridge roamed the fells long before the popularity of the area became intense. Much wildlife is found - a peregrine falcon is often a companion whilst climbing on the crags and the presence of the powerful but acrobatic raven is shown by the number of Raven Crags climbed upon. Sometimes a slowworm may be encountered in Hodge Close and ant plague Gowder Crag - only a part of the wild life of the area.

A trip to the Lakes may be spoilt by the inclement weather because being situated on the west of the country the area receives more than its fair share of rain. The area at the head of Borrowdale has the dubious distinction of the wettest place in England. If it does rain there are a few options still available - one can look around the area or outside the Lakes District to the outliers for better weather or a "traditional", wet ascent of an old classic can be contemplated. A visit to one of the number of climbing walls is however probably more in keeping with modern climbing scene.

It does not however always rain and infact many days with superb weather are waiting to enhance the excellent climbing on the Lakeland crags.

Many years ago prior to the ice age the Lake District was a large dome believed to be 3000 metres high. Glaciation and time has eroded this away to the present geography with valleys flowing down from the central fells rather like the spokes of a wheel . Through the centre of the Lake District a rift valley has created the distinctive valley slicing north to south of Thirlmere to Grasmere and Windermere. The guidebooks are based around the sequence of these valleys starting in Langdale going round the Lake District - there are the outlying areas of the Eden Valley, St.Bees and South Lakes Limestone.

The Lake District is geared up for the visitors and climbers. There are a number of town with shop etc. together with campsites and accommodations scattered throughout the Lake District. Many hostelries are well position in which to obtain refreshment, a good pint and a chat about the days exploits.

Climbers have been exploring the Lake District crags for many, many years. This guide has been produced to bring together a varied selection of routes together with information appropriate for those wanting an insight into the climbing in the area.