Posted by Barry Clarke on April 28, 2006 at 10:23:52:
Route:Dois de Seigneur
Length:28m
Grade:VS
Crag:Round How Buttermere p 53
Climbers:BJ Clarke (solo)
Date climbed:27.04.06
Description:Two interesting pitches up the buttress just right of "Central Route". Start 2 metres right of "Central Route" at a miniscule V-groove.
1 20m (4b). Pull up the V-groove and follow a thin crack above until a step up and left gains a ledge. Move right and follow a shallow scoop (a bit mossy) in a rounded rib to reach a rock glacis. Flake and nut belays.
2 8m (4b). Climb the headwall leftwards to finish boldly up a shallow flake just right of the steep crack on "Central Route".
NOTES: The freeze/dry early Spring months of the last couple of years have certainly done this crag a favour! The black moss cover has declined markedly!
Starchaser is a good VD and may deserve a star after a few more ascents.
Route 2 is worthwhile, but is a bit "climb anywhere" higher up. A direct finish up a quartz slab is Severe.