Posted by Barry Clarke on May 08, 2006 at 10:44:22:
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Description:The notional, but apt name for the steep wall that stretches left (south) from the foot of "Shampoo a Rhinoceros". The wall supports the terrace/ramp system crossed by Shampoo.. and contains a dozen or so strong lines up to 18 metres long. The rock is gritstone-like, good and clean and basks in the morning sunshine. However, the rounded nature of some of the holds makes the climbing harder than it looks!
Moving left from Shampoo.. the first feature reached after some 16 metres is a 3 metre high needle of rock standing next to the wall. After a further 14 metres a prominent V-chimney is seen 7 metres above the ground. Finally, the wall terminates 15 metres further left at a left-facing corner.
The story so far:-
"Mayerling" 18m HS
A worthwhile climb, starting at the foot of the left-facing corner.
(4a). Climb the fine slab forming the right side of the corner to a ledge. Continue up a slabby ramp to reach an overhung slab. Climb up to the left and pull over a slight bulge to gain the terrace.
FA BJ Clarke (solo) 05.05.06
DESCENT: A long way to the left (looking-in), or down Shampoo..(with care).
"Broad Walk" 18m MS
The easiest way up the centre of the wall, linking a series of ledges; still awkward! Start 4 metres left of the V-chimney at a block-filled cleft.
Climb the cleft to a ledge and step up left to another ledge. Move up, then follow easier ground rightwards to a slab. Cross this, and climb a steep little wall to the terrace.
FA BJ Clarke (solo) 05.05.06
NOTE: The "arduous approach" to this crag can be softened by following the tourist track up Glaramara until it levels out then contouring below Combe Head. A pleasant walk, but still taking 80 minutes!