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BUTTERMERE
& NEWLANDS
Buttermere (pages 32 - 94)
Page numbers refer to the FRCC Guide:
Buttermere & Eastern Crags (1992).
Buttermere will be covered in the forthcoming Buttermere & St Bees guide. |
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FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB
of the
English Lake District |
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Dropped Routes Index
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| The descriptions of some routes that are not described in full in the guide can be found on the Dropped Routes Index. |
A Plea for Photographs |
| Photos of crags in good light in summer are needed for the next edition of this guide. Please contact the FRCC Guidebook Photographs Editor if you think you have any such photos (in any format). Needless to say any good action photos would also be well received - for these we need to know: crag, route, grade, pitch, name of climber, name of photographer. You don't get paid I'm afraid, but you will get a free guidebook if we use any of your pictures! |
BUTTERMERE
Goat Gills Crag (191 162 Alt. 280m South-West Facing) |
This small steep crag lies hidden in a delightful setting, perched near the foot of Goat Gills on the flank of Robinson. The hand-full of routes offer surprisingly steep, exposed climbing. The rock is reasonably firm, quick drying and catches all the afternoon and evening sunlight. It is easily accessed from the lay-by opposite Dalegarth. Follow the path (sign posted Robinson), through the wood beside Hassnesshow beck, crossing two stiles and continue up the path which overlooks the beck from time to time. Just after a steep
section (at about 10min) the crag comes into view up ahead on the left momentarily. Bear left along a faint path just above a small dam in the beck and cross the first tributary to gain and ascend the spur,
which leads to the foot of the crag, in just over 15min. Climbs are described from left to right.
Descent: Scramble steeply (advisable to keep the rope on) up to the left of the upper crag, towards a large holly tree, traverse left above it. Descend a shallow grass/bracken gully, until just above the Gill, traverse round ribs back to the foot of the crag (the Gill can be negotiated in times of low water). Alternatively: a 25-metre abseil
from a sling around the tree, above the first terrace (at the top of Paddy Maginty etc), will be preferred by most.
Scapegoat 19m VS 2006
Worthwhile but lacking independence. Start at the left side of the crag, beneath the left side of a short easier angled subsidiary wall.
(4c). Climb easily, diagonally right up the wall to a ledge at a diagonal fault. Step up rightwards onto the steep wall, move up then right again onto the left edge of the central face. Climb up (junction with Billy the Kid) until a scoop on the left can be gained, move up a short quartz slab and pull up right to a shattered
pinnacle and belay.
Colin Read, Phil Fleming, 26th September 2006
* Billy the Kid 18m HVS 2006
A good climb, on which interest is maintained throughout. In the centre of the face are overhangs, the middle of which forms a downward pointing prow. Start just beneath and right of this.
(5a). Climb up beside the prow to the right-hand overhang, pull boldly out left onto the face and climb it directly throughout, to belay beside a shattered pinnacle.
Colin Read, Phil Fleming, 22nd September 2006
The rock face beyond this point is 18-15 metres high, but belays are further back.
* Paddy Maginty 25m VS 2006
Interesting throughout. Start as for Billy the Kid, beneath the obvious corner, just right of the central overhangs.
(4b). Pull up and rightwards onto the wall and continue up beside the corner, as the rock steepens move right, then pull up left steeply to a resting-place. Continue up the steep groove above to land on a heather terrace. Cross it and climb a short steep wall towards its left side, to gain a rock ledge, traverse easily right to beneath a tree and belay.
Phil Fleming, Colin Read, 7th October 2006
* Gillwilly 25m HVS 2006
Steep climbing, which initially has minimal protection. Start 3 metres right of Paddy Maginty, below a steep wall and just below and left of a ledge beneath a prominent corner. Both starts have merit.
(5a). Just left of the belay crack, climb on small holds directly up the wall (possible skyhook) to reach better holds. Step right to beneath the next steep section and climb it direct to a small sapling, beneath an overhanging prow. Move up left, then step out right to reach good holds and pull round the overhang onto the
front of the prow; step up to the heather terrace. Cross it rightwards and climb a short groove directly to the tree belay.
Colin Read, Phil Fleming, 15th October 2006
Alternative Start
Pull awkwardly up right from the belay crack, to gain the ledge at the foot of the corner. Step immediately left and climb the arête and face above (thin tape runners), to a resting place beneath the next steep section. Continue as for the main description.
Colin Read, Phil Fleming, 15th October 2006 |
|
Colin Read on the first ascent of Gillwilly
(Philip Fleming)
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* Butt Head 23m E1 2006
Steep and strenuous for 10 metres, protection is good low down, but diminishes when most needed! Start on a higher ledge 6 metres right of Gillwilly and 5 metres left of the right-hand edge of the crag, beneath a very steep wall at a blocky fault line.
(5b). Climb directly on blocky holds towards the right-hand end of a small overhang. Pull up and reach rightwards to get established on the wall. Move a little left then up until the angle eases. Continue, trending left to the heather terrace. Cross it and climb a short steep wall towards its left side, to gain a rock ledge (as for Paddy Maginty), traverse easily right to beneath a tree and belay.
Colin Read, Phil Fleming, 7th October 2006
Goat of many Colours 23m S 2006
Steep and with some interest. Start near the right-hand edge of the crag, at a crack with a chock stone in it, directly beneath a tree. Climb the crack and pass the tree on the left. Step out left and climb the face to a second large tree, traverse left below it to a junction with Butt Head. Trend up left to the heather terrace. Cross it rightwards and climb a short groove directly to the tree belay.
Phil Fleming, Colin Read, 15th October 2006 |
BUTTERMERE
Yew Crags
(p32)
|
|
Notes
from Colin Downer: Vulture thought to be E2, 5c, worth
** but rather dirty. The scramble approach is harder than the
route. Substitute thought to be E2, 5b.
After the Glitter Fades 20m E2
A good continuation pitch for Vulture.
5b). Ten metres above the top of Vulture is a clean brown
wall. Climb this direct.
Stuart Wood, Stephen Ashworth, 25th September 2003
Holly
Tree Grooves - Variation start HS
A worthwhile alternative,
making a sustained route.
Start
3 metres right of pitch 1, at the edge of a wall.
1a
15m (4a). Climb
the rough wall direct, to a ledge with saplings, pull left over
a block, to the belay at the foot of the groove of pitch 2.
C
Read, C M Jones, 8th December 2001
Very
wet and mossy, still needs cleaning up.
Hearth Direct seems desperate for E1, E2 (5c) would be nearer the mark, and Hearth should probably get E1 (5c) - we imagine the latter might have once been HVS with a point of aid? (CK, SR)
Chimney
Buttress: care required with (the remaining!) loose rock in
the open groove - there looks to be a bit more to come.
|
BUTTERMERE
Zorro Buttress
(p38) (220 145) Alt. 420m South-West Facing |
This steep, rather narrow buttress, has an atmosphere more akin to
larger venues and an open sunny aspect, it is worth the walk: In
the centre are two distinctive left facing corners, a striking crack on
the left and it is split by a deep cleft on the right. The rock is
generally firm, but some flake holds need treating with respect.
It lies above and slightly left (west) of Maidenstone Buttress.
Approach as for Maidenstone Buttress. Pass a short distance below
that crag; ascend leftwards to cross scree and a stream (sometimes
dry). Continue left well below the crag under another rocky bluff,
into an open scree chute, up this until a traverse right-wards leads
to a flat rock pedestal, about 20 metres below the crag (25min), this
is a good vantage point and gearing up place. It can also be
reached from Yew Crag Knotts. Climbs are described from left to right.
Descent: Traverse left (west) above a subsidiary wing of the crag.
Descend a grassy gutter, then as soon as possible turn back towards
the crag and descend diagonally to its foot.
** Mark of Zorro 30m E1 1977
A fine crack climb. Taking the obvious crack, which rises to the
overhangs then curls onto the left-hand face. Start beneath the crack,
just below a tree on a ledge.
(5b). Pull up onto the ledge and climb the crack to the overhang,
then follow it awkwardly onto the left-hand face. The impending
crack above is strenuous and leads to poor belays, better to
continue up heather for about 12 metres to an embedded block.
** Zeta 27m E2 2006
Good, steep and strenuous. The left-hand corner, directly above the
tree. Start as for Mark of Zorro, below and left of the tree.
(5c). Pull onto the ledge and ascend rightwards into the corner.
Follow it, passing the first overhang via a hollow flake, strenuous
moves lead up to the lip of the second overhang and with difficulty
pull up and round the right arête, to a resting place (junction with
Bandaeros). Step up the edge and move back into the corner,
surmount the third overhang and immediately traverse left to the
sharply deffined arête, follow it to the top. Move down right to a
small cluster of belays, or continue up heather for 15 metres to an
embeded block belay.
Oct 14th 2006 C Read, G L Swainbank
** Bandaeros 25m E1 2006
Interesting throughout. The right-hand corner. Start directly below it.
(5b). Climb the short steep wall to a ledge in an overhung recess, just right of the tree. Move up the right wall and pull onto the right arête, move back left and up onto a sloping ledge in the corner. Climb the corner (crux) to sharp flake holds and swing out right at the top to a resting place. Move up and step across to the left edge
of the wall (junction with Zeta). Climb the wall above directly, on sometimes alarming but apparantly secure holds, to a small cluster of belays a few metres higher, or continue up heather for about 15 metres to an embeded block belay.
Oct 14th 2006 C Read, G L Swainbank
Photo: Colin Read on the first ascent of Bandaeros (Graham Swainbank) |
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* Sabre Cut 23m HVS 2006
This is the prominent chimney/crack at the right-hand side of the face.
(5a). Follow the crack as it develops into a chimney, squeeze up as
far as possible to the overhang and step left out onto the wall, move
up to a small ledge. Pull up into the line of the continuation crack
and using sharp stacked flakes which form the right arête, follow it
to the top and a small cluster of belays, or continue up heather for
about 15 metres to an embeded block.
Oct 14th 2006 C Read, G L Swainbank |
BUTTERMERE
Maidenstone Buttress (220 144 Alt.360m South-West Facing) |
This compact crag: is distinguished by a prominent square cave at mid-
height. It lies above the first lay-by (it has a large boulder on it),
when descending from Honister pass. Approach directly up the steep
fellside beside the stream on the right (15min), or traverse from Yew
Crag Knotts. It has a lovely outlook and catches all the afternoon and
evening sun. It will reward a visit with a vigorous workout. The
rock is generally good, but there is still some grime and debris in
places, which should clear with use. Routes are described, right to left.
Descent: Easily to the right.
|
Maidenstone Buttress |
| 1 |
Maidens Cave (E1*) |
|
3 |
Maidens Cheek (E1*) |
| 2 |
Maiden's Twin (HVS*) |
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4 |
Right Arete (VS) |
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Maidens Chimney 15m D 2003
The obvious, easy, shattered chimney, on the right side of the crag.
Aug 10th 2003 A Graham, P Norman
Right Arête 15m VS 2003
Start just left of the right arête, at a thin crack.
(5a). Climb it awkwardly to a break via some dubious blocks.
Continue more easily up cracks, exiting rightwards at the top.
Aug 6th 2003 A Graham
Repeated by S Reid and C King and thought to be HVS- (5a). Not worth a star. It is hard to see how this and the next route are independent of each other.
* Maidens Gangway 15m VS 2003
Start 1 metre left of the thin crack of Right Arête.
(4c). Climb the wall directly to the foot of the obvious gangway
and follow it to the top.
Aug 10th 2003 A Graham, C Cookson
* Maidens Cheek 15m E1 2003
Good bold climbing, if the direct line is adhered to. Start 2 metres left
of the thin crack of Right Arête.
(5b). Thin unprotected moves lead directly to a break. Pull strenuously up the wall above to meet the top of the gangway.
Aug 10th 2003 A Graham, C Cookson
Repeated by C King and S Reid and thought to be E2- (5b). Worth a star.
* Maidens Twins 15m HVS 2003
Good climbing, up the twin cracks, which pass the right side of the cave.
(5a). Follow the cracks to the top.
Aug 6th 2003 M Park, C Cookson
Repeated by C King and S Reid and thought to be HVS+ (5a). Worth a star.
* Maidens Cave 15m E1 2003
Steep and strenuous: Start at a thin crack, just left of the twin cracks of Maidens Twins.
(5b). Climb directly into the cave, move up (some suspect holds).
Pull out left and climb a steep jamming crack to the top.
Aug 6th 2003 C Cookson, M Park
Repeated by S Reid and C King and thought to be HVS+ (5b). Worth a star.
Maidens Groove 13m HVS 2003
Steep and awkward: Start left of the cave, below the obvious groove.
(5b). Climb the wall, pull into the groove and exit left, to avoid very dubious blocks.
Aug 10th 2003 P Norman, A Graham |
|
Chris King on the first(?) ascent of the
Hunchback of Notre Dame (E2*).
|
Maidens Nose 17m HVS 2003
Start as for Maidens Groove.
(5a). Follow Maidens Groove up the wall, swing left below the
nose and fight past the ash tree, to pull out right onto the nose,
move up to a ledge. Climb the crack in the wall above to the top.
Aug 11th 2003 J Grove, A Graham |
BUTTERMERE
Buckstone How (p39) |
|
Sinister
Grooves: The last pitch
seems to have slipped 1m left from when I last did it...
Now easier but lots of loose material sitting in the back of what
is now a chimney groove (DH).
Octavia
75m HVS
Takes a line between Sinister Grooves and Cumbrian’s
Climb and passes between the two prows of rock visible at
about two thirds height on the crag. A climb of continuous interest.
Start 4m left of the large block at the foot of the crag, beneath
an obvious curving crack line.
1
25m (5a). Climb the crack passing an overhang at 6m. Continue
past a sapling and climb into the groove on the right side of
a large block. Pull right onto the arete and continue up to the
block belay below the V-groove of Sinister Grooves.
2
35m (5a). The wall behind is climbed on the right, from the top
of the block, keeping just left of a groove, until a pull right
can be made. Move up left to the bottom of a steep wall. Step
left and climb it directly, continuing up the slab above towards
the foot of a steep groove, until a move left gains a rock ledge.
Climb directly up the impending wall above (between the prominent
prows) to a landing on a rock ledge with a small sapling. Climb
the narrow arete on the left, to a stance level with its top (belays
3m higher at the foot of pitch 4 of Cumbrian’s Climb).
3
20m (4b). Move right from the stance to ledges (junction with
Honister Wall) at a belay beneath pitch 6. Above is a steep
left slanting groove; gain and climb it to the top.
G
Swainbank, C Read (AL), 17th May 1997.
(Climbed
on sight in damp conditions and found to be hard for the grade.
The grade given assumes a drier ascent).
|
BUTTERMERE
Buckstone Howe, Lower Right-Hand, Upper Right Hand & Incline Wall |
|
Lower Right-Hand
This wall is situated immediately above and right of the first, rather ill-defined, incline when approaching Buckstone How from Honister Pass. It is clearly visible.
Musical Chairs 13m VS 2006
The rib on the extreme right of the wall has a line of flakes on its right-hand flank (facing Honister mine). Start below here on a higher ledge.
(4b). Climb the flakes with care to a ledge at the top of the rib. Move up for 3 metres then step right to a motley collection of spike belays.
BJ Clarke (solo) 27th July 2006
Leporello 14m MVS 2006
A rather better offering, starting 3 metres left of Musical Chairs at the base of a groove, from the top of which springs a fine-looking flake crack.
(4b). Climb the left rib of the groove and gain the flake crack delicately from the left. Continue up it to join Tuning Fork , and finish as for that climb.
BJ Clarke (solo) 27th July 2006
Barry adds:
1. There seems little doubt that the three hard routes, Factotum, Talks with Arms and The Pugilist at Rest (2002) are situated on the second tier of rock right of and above the descent from Buckstone How. This is the tier climbed by pitch 2 of Ray McHaffie's Frozen Finger Grooves (1991).
2. It is almost impossible to ascertain which is the groove forming the first pitch of FFG on the first tier. There are 4 aretes here, each forming a groove!
3. Thus the routes Tuning Fork and Leporello seem to be on a previously overlooked wall, situated right of these tiers.There is more scope here for newies, but everywhere, there is the Buckstone curse; musical flakes!! This
buttress is above and right of the normal descent route from the
main crag. The rock is reported as being quite sound.
Upper Right-Hand
Frozen
Finger Grooves
45m HVS
Start
on the lower ramp at a deep groove.
1
20m (5a). Climb the groove and pull out right at the top. Cross
the ramp to the foot of a groove.
2
25m (5a). Climb the groove to a block belay. Descend on the left.
R
McHaffie, T.Richardson 28th December 1991
Incline
Wall (225 142)
This
crag lies just above and right of Buckstone How.
Factotum 20m E3
(5c). Climb
the obvious arete on the left-hand side of the crag. Pumpy.
Stuart Wood, Stephen Ashworth, 7th June 2002
Talks with
Arms 20m E3
(5c). Climb the crack in the wall to the ramp. Pull out boldly
rightwards to the top.
Stuart Wood, Stephen Ashworth, 7th June 2002
The Pugilist at Rest 18m E1
(5b). Climb the pillar on the right directly up the middle. Superb.
Stuart Wood, Stephen Ashworth, 7th June 2002
|
|
BUTTERMERE
Un-named Crag |
|
When
facing the Honister Boulder look up right to another huge
boulder on the scree. Behind this is a small buttress. The route
is on this buttress.
Kids that Kill 15m E4
Start on the right hand side of the slabby wall.
(5c). Make a series of technical moves up the wall, passing a
small wire. Continue boldly to a break with a steep little wall
above. Step right and climb this to the top.
Duncan
Booth, Jimmy Beveridge, June 2001
|
BUTTERMERE
Honister Crag
(page 44) |
|
Ozymandias 70m E2/3
An
eliminate route taking a very impressive and exhilarating line
between Hyperspace and the Comet, topping out up
the super exposed arete above and left of the Hyperspace
finish. The climbing and situations are of equal quality to both
Hyperspace and The Comet. Both Ozymandias
and Hyperspace dry quite quickly.
1
24m (4c). First pitch of The Comet. The first ascent party
belayed (small Ffriends) on the top grass ledge directly below
the actual start of The Comet corner.
2
25m (5b/c). Pull up from the left edge of the belay ledge (2 metres
left of Comet corner), after a couple of tricky moves the
holds improve. Climb straight up to a steep shallow 3m corner
(in-situ protection peg) . A long reach is made from an undercut
to a pull out onto a small slab. (The route Hyperspace
reaches this mini slab from the left and also moves off it at
its left side). Step up to the right from the slab then straight
up to a prominent little spike. Traverse left a few feet then
up to a small stance below the overhangs. (It would be possible
to climb pitches 2 and 3 as one, but watch out for rope drag).
3
18m (5b/c) . The very exposed left arete is climbed via the short
groove (mini wire) to a fixed protection peg just below the small
overhang. Pull out left onto the edge admire the view then climb
directly to the top. Superb situations.
Paul
Ross, Peter Lockey 8th May 1993.
Climbed
earlier but route improved and reclimbed on the above date.
"My
name is Ozymandias, King of Kings: Look on my works, ye Mighty,
and despair!" - Shelley
|
BUTTERMERE
Striddle Crag (p50) |
| Striddle
Crag is totally heather-choked; one team even failed to reach the
start of their route! BC |
BUTTERMERE
Round How (p53) |
|
Round How is overrated, being mossy and overgrown! The area around Salome is better, but still dirty (BC). However, the freeze/dry early Spring months of the last couple of years have certainly done this crag a favour! The black moss cover has declined markedly! (BC)
Dark Noises 50m HVS
Thirty metres right of Chimney Route, the main (frowning) wall of the crag starts in earnest. It is riven by three impressive, unclimbed crack-lines (all very dirty - unfortunately). This route takes the cleanest line up the left side of the wall and has negligible protection; hence the strange grade! Start 30 metres right of Chimney Route, and 25 metres down and left of Central Route, directly below the left-hand and thinnest crack-line.
1 10m. Easy slabs lead to a flake belay in a small corner.
2 40m (4b). Move up right for 3 metres, then back left across a ramp to reach shelves and a ledge below a steep wall. Step left, and climb a shallow groove and wall to a small ledge and a thin vertical crack (first protection - tiny). Continue up easier slabs to reach medium/small Friend belays in a cleaned slanting crack well back to the right.
BJ Clarke, Sue Greenwood, 10th May 2006
However, Colin Read notes that this may be the climb referred to in the 1970 guide book page 40, which is not reffered to in later editions. Dois de Seigneur 28m VS
Two interesting pitches up the buttress just right of Central Route. Start 2 metres right of Central Route at a miniscule V-groove.
1 20m (4b). Pull up the V-groove and follow a thin crack above until a step up and left gains a ledge. Move right and follow a shallow scoop (a bit mossy) in a rounded rib to reach a rock glacis. Flake and nut belays.
2 8m (4b). Climb the headwall leftwards to finish boldly up a shallow flake just right of the steep crack on Central Route.
Route 2 is worthwhile, but is a bit "climb anywhere" higher up. A direct finish up a quartz slab is Severe.
(BC) Stargazer
35m D
Start immediately left of the grassy rake.
1 20m. Follow slabs just left of the rake to a block belay
2 15m. Go up and slightly left and then straight up to the top.
M
Lynch, J Lynch (alt), 15th June 2003
Starchaser
35m VD
Start 5 metres left of the rake. Virtually protectionless.
Climb straight up, crossing Route 2, to follow a right-facing
open corner, and then trend left slightly to the top.
J Lynch, M Lynch (alt), 15th June 2003
Both routes are similar on perfect clean rock but the Starchaser
has virtually no protection.
Starchaser is a good VD and may deserve a star after a few more ascents (BC).
Farandolle 35m S
A pleasant climb taking the left-bounding rib of the open corner of Starchaser. Start 2 metres left of that climb below a tiny rectangular roof at 3 metres.
(4a). Climb past the roof and up a short thin crack to gain a ledge. Step up left to the large ledge of Route 2, then trend right to gain the rib. Up the rib to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 27th April 2006 Salami 25m E1 5b
Start
3 metres right of Tambourine. Climb direct up the fingery wall
(unprotected) to a widening in the slanting crack. Follow the
crack rightwards to a small block. Move up (crux) trending leftwards
to finish - a good but slightly harder companion to Salome.
Neil
McAllister, Gordon Higginson, Jim Lawrenson, 25th May 1997
Bratwurst 25m VS 4c
Climbs
the open groove in the right side of the obvious blunt arete 20 metres
right of Salome. Exit right at the top of the groove and
finish direct up the broken wall above - pleasant.
Jim
Lawrenson (Solo), 25th May 1997
Pepperami 25m VS 4b
The
left side of the blunt arete of Bratwurst. Start up good
holds on the left or better follow fingery holds from nearer the
arete. Either way climb directly up the scruffy wall above and
finish just right of the heathery corner - not so pleasant.
Neil
McAllister (Solo), 25th May 1997
Note:
Salome is quite a bit stiffer than 4c as shown in the guidebook,
by current day comparisons - top end 5a at least.
|
BUTTERMERE
Little Round How (p53) |
| Little Round How is the prominent knoll 250 metres north of Round How (more properly called Great Round How). The east-facing slabs have been scratched on for years, but the sterner west face has now offered a couple of routes on razor-rough clean rock. With the bonus of full sun after 12 noon!
Twelve metres right of the arete by the path an unclimbed flake crack leading to an imposing headwall looks worthwhile, whilst a further 24 metres right a grooved arete has given the two routes either side of this feature (the arete direct will be eliminate, good and serious!).
Gil Favor 11m VS (4b).
Start at the foot of the arete and climb the right-trending ramp for 4 metres. Step left and follow the rounded cracks on the right side of the arete to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo) 22nd March 2006.
Rawhide 11m VS (4c). Start as for Gil Favor and gain the offwidth crack from the right. Up this, and the twin cracks above to a recess. Step up left to easier ground.
BJ Clarke (solo) 22nd March 2006. |
BUTTERMERE
Haystacks
(page
59) |
The
following has been received from a "modern day climber"
and is reproduced here in an effort to make Bill Peascod turn in
his grave. It will no doubt raise a few chuckles amonst the older
generation!
Y Gully 175m XS (E3 5c/A0?)
Lured by the lyrical description in the Buttermere
Guide into repeating this 1941 Peascod Classic. Can confirm that
the rock does indeed "make lego look solid", however would
question the "VS 4c" grade. Even if the slimed rock ever
dried out (doubtful) this route would remain a totally traumatising
ordeal, with entire pitches of insecure unprotected vegetation leading
to the terminal interminable chimney - a sustained epic of desperate
moves on crumbling rock and soil. Accident or injury is only a loose
block away, and rescue improbable. Magnificent!
Some changes to the description:
1 30m (HVS 4a). (There is NO chockstone at the base of the gully)
From the foot of the first barrier climb rightwards up black, dripping
Engine Oil Slab. Keep rightwards up vegetated rock (the First
Grass Field) until it is possible to trend back left ino the
gully to belay at the foot of a dripping rock barrier.
2 40m (E2 5b/A0). Traverse rightwards below the barrier to its end.
Unearth a decent small wire then tenuously rock-up right to grasp
a tiny wild rose stem. Mantle grass ledges, unearth more gear then
make hard moves straight up holdless heathery rock. Run it out up
an immensity of hanging rushes (the Second Grass Field) then
traverse left to enter the base of the chimney (old peg belay).
3 55m (E3 5c/A0). Say a prayer to the Gods of Slime-Climbing. After
about 40m things ease-off somewhat. Exit the gully on the right
and head up heather to a decent tree belay.
4 50m. Easy heather. |
BUTTERMERE
High Crag
(page
60) |
|
Red,
Raw and Itchy
20m E3
Takes
the thin crack between Foul Play and The Executioner's
Song.
(6a).
Climb the crack and then the wall direct.
W
Williamson, B Shaw 18th June 1992.
The
Executioners Song - Variation Finish E3
(5c).
From the runner placement at the top of the arete, move up and
rightwards to the crack splitting the overhang.
A few strenuous jamming moves lead to the top.
B
Davison, Rick Richardson, 20th June 1992
On
the 20-metre wall left of the main crag only Indecent Obsession,
Foul Play and The Executioner's Song are clean; the rest are mossed
over! On the main crag the area around the top half of Psychois
extremely dirty with a strange (alien) fungus-like growth!! The
rest is ok, but needs a few more ascents and a good drying out
(like everywhere). The routes Journey after Dawn and Hassness
Buttress could not be located. BC
The
Three Kings 45 m HVS
Climbs the first
steep wall of rock at the left side of the main buttress. Interesting
climbing.
Start from ledges
15 metres left of Rock Table
Ledge, at a rock ledge beneath three distinctive triangular
niches.
1 20 m (4a).
Climb the wall crossing a diagonal crack, continue via
the three niches to reach easy slabs above, which lead up then
left to the foot of a steep clean wall, just left of the capped
corner of Artefact.
2 25 m (5a).
From the centre of the wall trend rightwards to cracked blocks
(care). Move up and traverse diagonally left to reach and follow
a slightly cracked groove, gain the ledge above (possible belay).
Move up and pass the first of two overlaps on its right, pull
up and step left, ascend directly up the steep wall to gain the
top.
C Read, BR Shackleton,
6th May 2000
Resurrection
Route - Direct Finish 20m
VS
Start from the
belay at the top of pitch 2, the main crack.
(4c). Climb the
short groove, stepping right onto the wall as soon as possible,
and follow the less mossy streak up the wall and through a bulge
to easier slabs.
S Stout, SJH
Reid, 15th June 1999
Dry
Trim – a comment has been received that it seems more like HVS,
5a, than E1, 5b.
Close Shave 28m
E1**
The following
makes an excellent sustained route.
(5b). Follow
the Direct Start to Samson
through the roof to the good rest at the foot of the main crack
of Samson. Step right again into a thin crack a metre and a half to the
right of Samson. Climb
this for 2 metres and either make an awkward step right and up
onto The Philistine or make another move up the crack and hand traverse
right to the same point. The
Philistine goes up right here; move back
left instead and climb the wall to gain a thin crack that slants
up leftwards and follow it through the bulges above.
Stephen Reid,
Steve Stout, 15th June 1999 but with the ordinary start to Samson.
Since climbed
with the Direct Start by Jim and
Kate Arnold.
The upper section
is the right hand finish to Samson
(more like 5b than 5a incidentally) and there is only a short
section of new climbing involved.
The
Israelite 45 m E3
An
eliminate line between Lost Colonies and High Crag Buttress
which nevertheless contains some fine and bold climbing. Start
as for Psycho.
1
15m (5c). Gain the top of the detached flake then take the thin
left hand crack until it ends at a sloping shelf. Difficult moves
up and right(small wires) lead to the left-hand cave.
2
30m (5c). Pull out of the left-hand side of the cave, step right
and climb directly to the upper break below the leaning headwall
(? Friend up and left).Climb boldly up the wall heading for the
apex. The angle then eases. Either step left and belay beside
some blocks or continue up the pleasant rough slab to the highest
point of the buttress.
W.
Young, W. Hannah, alternate leads. August 1994
Nebuchanezzar’s
Dream – a comment has been received that it seems more like E2,
5c, than E1, 5b.
Fellwanderer 55m HVS
An
eliminate line incorporating much previously climbed ground but
nevertheless an excellent way up the crag at this standard with
a superb second pitch that traverses high across the steepest
part of the buttress. Start as for Psycho.
1
20m (5a). Gain the top of the detached flake and climb cracks
above to the left hand cave. Step down into the right hand cave
and exit rightwards to a grass ledge.
2
25m (5a). Climb up leftwards onto a rib and follow it up and left
into the upper cave on High Crag Buttress. Hand traverse
left from the cave along the superb flake to its end and then
make a difficult mantle shelf move up and step left to better
holds. Step down and traverse left on jugs to easier ground and
go up to a huge block belay.
3
10m. Climb the slab on the right to the top.
Adrian
Cammack, SJH Reid (AL). 27th June 1996
|
BUTTERMERE
Wall End Buttress
(page 66) |
Epaulette
Ridge is an interesting route, but the description finishes
below a barrier of vegetated slabs, leaving no obvious way up or
down. A way was found by down-climbing just right of Turvy
(V Diff). Even this led to complex ground comprising shelving slabs,
steep walls and the ubiquitous heather requiring care!
Topsy 10m MVS
The first pitch of Epaulette Ridge forms a slab on its left
flank, clearly seen from Gatesgarth. Start 6 metres up and left
from the starting crack of Epaulette Ridge.
(4b). Climb the slab trending left to reach the ridge, poor protection.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th July 2005
Turvy 14m S
The "final peak" of Epaulette Ridge forms a fine,
slabby wall on its right flank. Start 2 metres left of the right-hand
end of the wall.
(4a). Use a thin crack to gain a large spike at 5 metres. Step off
its tip and climb the pleasant slab rightwards to finish at the
twin blocks on the ridge.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th July 2005
Note: Topsy/Turvy can be linked by a traverse right! |
BUTTERMERE
Sheepbone Buttress
(page 69) |
Mr
Why 40m VS
Interesting climbing
to the right of Angst. Start as for Angst.
1 26m (4b). Gain and climb the smooth right-hand groove, using holds
on the right rib to the large ledge. Move right and up on grass
for 8 metres to belay on blocks below a corner formed by a pinnacle
(well past its sell-by date).
2 14m (4a). Climb the pinnacle flank and corner on dubious rock,
before stepping up and left to finish up cracks leading to the apex
of the buttress.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th July 2005
Note: Sheepbone
Buttress itself has good-looking, but wayward lines all showing
signs of neglect (moss/dirt). Incidentally the inocuous-looking
Route 2 on the right of the crag is Severe not Diff!
* Herdwick Rib 25 m D 2005
Pleasant and easy on superb rock.Well to the right of Route 2
is another short buttress of compact rock.The route takes the
extreme right edge overlooking an open gully. Start a few metres
up on the right pull left to gain the rib and follow it throughout.
C Read,
7th August
2005
|
BUTTERMERE
Eagle Crag
(page 76) |
|
A good descent route has been found to the east
of this crag. To the east of Border Buttress there are
twin gullies and then an un-named buttress. The descent takes
the open gully to the east of this. Reported as better than the
usual descent route.
Birkness
Grooves
50m VS
High
in the grade and unfortunately wet except in drought conditions.
Start between Border Buttress and Tailgate at a
prominent black corner left of a smooth brown wall (best reached
via the eastern descent after one of the longer routes).
1
25m (4b). Gain the clean black groove and climb to the pasture.
Belay 5 metres back by an old peg on the left.
2
25m (4c). Just right of the belay, climb a thin crack and open
groove to the top.
D
Bodecott, R Lloyd (AL), 27th June 1992
The Clown is described as moving right to the arête before the overhang. There is an extremely dangerous detached and perched block, torso size, which is on that move. I looked at it long and hard before finishing up Harlequin, because the block is totally unsafe. It is not possible to pass this at the grade (which we felt was closer to E1 5a because of "slim" gear. The block will strike anyone belaying in the gully. (Glenn Wilks)
Carnival Variation Finish 42 m
5a (4b). Follow cracked rib as for start of pitch 5 moving left to follow the arete left of grassy trench to the top - a much better finish than the original.
Des Johnson, S O Miller, 25th June 1995
Mardi Gras 137m E1** 2006
Interesting varied climbing, on good rock. Start 2 metres left of the blunt arete, which forms the junction of the north and west faces of the crag, at the foot of an open groove line, immediately left of the V-groove of Birkness Front.
1 32 m (5b). Climb the groove, at its top trend left, move up then follow a ramp leftwards until it merges with the ramp on pitch 2 of Eagle Front (old peg runner on left). Step right and climb an awkward, steep and strenuous crack and groove (crux) to a sloping stance at its top, beneath the slabs of Eagle Front.
2 15 m (4b). Traverse right and pull up round the skyline onto a good ledge. Move right and up to a large ledge, traverse to its left end and a large block belay.
3 22 m (5a). Step back right 2 metres and make a difficult pull up onto a large foothold on the wall above. Step left and climb direct to a grass ledge, or traverse right to join Pigott’s Route. Scramble up to the Terrace and a block thread belay.
4 18 m. As for Pigott’s Route. Up to the higherterrace, go right and belay on top of the short slab.
5 50 m (4b). From the top of the slab, step up onto the wall above and climb direct, until the angle eases. At about 30 metres stay on good rock trending rightwards and pass a small spike/block runner. Move up onto the steepening rib, climb it until a move left leads onto the final slab. Block belay on the wall above.
Note: this pitch requires the full 50 metres of rope!
C Read, G L Swainbank (alt), 16th July 2006
Climbed and cleaned on sight, so there may still be a little grime in places.
Photo Top Right: Graham Swainbank on pitch 1 of Mardi Gras. (Colin Read).
Photo Right: Graham Swainbank on pitch 2 of Mardi Gras. (Colin Read). |
|
|
The
Barn Door is Severe if taken on the crest (there are alternatives).
The rock is loose and dirty! (BJC)
|
BUTTERMERE
Grey Crags
(page 82) |
|
Mitre
Buttress
Mitre
Mouse 37m HS
Start as for Mitre Buttress Ordinary.
1 25m (4a). Step left and climb up to a triangular roof on the
pinnacle-buttress above. Avoid the roof on the left and climb
daintily up the wall to reach the pinnacle top. A short wall and
easy blocky ground leads to a belay at the foot of the corner-chimney
on pitch 3 of Mitre Buttress Ordinary.
2 12m (4a). A soaring,jug-infested pitch. Climb the crack 1.5
metres right of the corner-chimney, then continue up a slight
groove and wider crack direct to easier ground. An easy scramble
up the ridge leads to the top of the buttress.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd June 2005
Mitres Well 20m E1+ / E2
Two contrasting pitches, starting from below the triangular cave at the top of pitch 1 of Mitre Buttress Ordinary.
1 9m (5a). The striking thin crack to the left of the roof. Gain this from the corner on the left, toe-traversing to the crack just above the roof. Superb jams lead to the ledge. Move left onto the blocky ledge, and re-belay just left of the wide crack of Mitre Buttress Direct top pitch.
2 11m (5b). Climb the crack to a small ledge (last runners) below the steepening. Pull over a small roof to a finger ledge and traverse left to a jug in a small recess. Finish up a vague groove above, past a small wire.
Alan Phizacklea, John Holden, 6th May 2006
Ribbon Wall 26m VS
Start on the ledge below the wall, right of the first pitch of Mitre Buttress Direct.
(4c). Climb blocky flakes on the left to a thin horizontal flake, and pull up right to a small spike. Continue to a small protruding flake and move up to a shallow corner which leads to a belay on Mitre Buttress Al Alan Phizacklea, John Holden, 6th May 2006
Rib and Wall is not "worthy"...." , it's a poor, loose route! (BJC)
Sol 36m VS* 2006
Delicate fingery climbing leads to vigorous jamming. It lies in isolation on the top right-hand side of the buttress and can be reached from the scramble path, which leads from the top of Harrow Buttress to the foot of Chockstone Buttress . Start from near the saddle, beneath the blunt rib of a huge boulder, above which stands a prominent left facing corner.
25 m (4a). Step of a block under the right side of the left face and climb the right edge on superb crinkley rock, to the top of the boulder. Continue up an easy slabby rib, to a ledge beneath the prominent left facing corner.
11 m (4c). Jam/layoff up the superb corner crack, to the summit.
C Read, S W Pollington, 17th June 2006
Photo left: Steve Pollington on the first ascent of Sol (Colin Read).
Photo below: Colin Read on the first ascent of Sol (Steve Pollington). |
|
|
Harrow
Buttress
* Harrow
Rib 40 m HS 2005
Interesting and direct. Start 2 metres left of Harrow Buttress,
beneath the rib.
1 21 m (4a). Starting on the left climb the rib direct to a ledge
at 15 metres. Step up left and continue up the short rib to easier
ground, beneath the upper section of the rib.
2 19 m (4a). Climb up to the right side of the rib, climb up the
wall beside it and make a pull up left to regain the crest continue
up it to the top.
C Read,
14th August 2005
Spider
Wall -
the "loose but apparently mechanically safe handhold"
on Pitch 2 has joined its fellows on the scree. Whether this has
affected the grade of the route is not known.
Arachnophobia
35 m E2* 2004
Interesting and direct. Start 6 metres right of Spider Wall
and immediately left of Harrow Wall.
1 21m (5c). Scramble up to the right end of the long grass ledge
at the foot of a short wall beneath the overhangs. Ascend a break
in the wall to a groove, which splits the overhangs (some loose
but apparently mechanically sound holds). Pull up and left strenuously
over the overhang to hidden holds, make committing moves leftwards
onto the wall above, and move up to gain a rightward slanting
crack. Follow it more easily to a small ledge and belay at a horizontal
break (junction with the traverse of Harrow Wall).
2 13 m (4c). Move up the edge above and step right into a short
rightward-facing corner. Follow this and continue straight up
the final headwall to the top.
C. Read, G.L. Swainbank (alt), 22nd August 2004
The overhangs of pitch 1 were first climbed by C. Read and N.L.
Tonkin, 30th April 2000.
Chockstone
Buttress
Tranquillity 48 m E1**
Delightfully
delicate climbing directly up the left side of the slabs. Low
in the grade but with minimal protection. Start up the gully about
5 metres beneath and right of a small grassy bay, which bounds
the left side of the slabs and 4 metres above the traverse line
of Slabs Ordinary Route.
1 28 m (5b). Climb straight up to twin thin leftward
slanting cracks, follow these, then continue straight up to a
small niche. Ascend more or less in a direct line to a ledge with
a pile of perched blocks, under a jutting nose in the headwall.
2 20 m (5a). Move along the ledge to the right of
the blocks and climb up then leftwards to beneath a small diagonal
roof. Pass it on the right, then ascend directly up just left
of the right arete, to the top.
C Read, N F Tonkin,
16th July 2000
Dance
Fever 54m VS
Climbs the arête right of Slabs West Route, with
a technical start and a bold finish. Start at the toe of the slabs
8 metres left of Chockstone Ridge.
1 18m (4c). Move up and start the arête awkwardly from undercuts
on the left. Follow it, becoming easier, to reach a large ledge
at the rock scar.
2 18m (4b). Climb the right-hand side of the scar and continue
up the rightwards-trending ramp, eventually stepping left to an
arête (loose blocks). Continue to a ledge below the upper
arête.
3 18m (4b). Start the arête on the right before moving up
and left into a scoop. Climb directly up the steep arête
above by a series of thrilling moves to reach easier ground and
the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 31st May 2005
Note
from Colin Read: this appears to be Return with a Vengeance. Note from
Trevor Langhorne
Dance Fever is simply a 15' (sorry 5m) variation to the
start of Return climbing the left side of the rib rather
than the crack on the right. The rest of Dance Fever is as for
return via pitch 2a. The Dance Fever start is certainly on nice
rock and fits with the arete theme of the top pitch. Climbed that
way the route is still MVS (4c - 4b) but not sustained. Worth
a star.
Return with a Vengeance 69m MVS*
Takes the right
arete of the slabs overlooking Chockstone
Ridge. The main difficulties are reserved until the finely
situated top pitch. Start at the lowest point at the right-hand
toe of the slabs.
1 25m (4a). Climb
easily to a sloping grass ledge at 3 metres. Pass the bulge on
the arete by pulling into a thin crack on its right. Follow this
until it is possible to step left onto the crest, which is followed
to a junction with Slabs Ordinary Route. Belay on the right
side of a large sloping ledge.
2 20m. Climb
a few metres up the ramp on the right, to the leftward-trending
crack and ascend it to a ledge. Trend right up slabs to a stance
at the foot of the right-facing corner/groove of Slabs
Ordinary Route.
3 24m (4b). Traverse
4 metres right to the edge of the buttress. Climb up as close
to the arete as possible, with steep moves at mid height, crux
(protection is only available where most needed).
Variation 20m
2a (4a). Follow the ramp to its end and continue
up a slabby wall over large perched blocks (care needed) to reach
the same stance.
W F Hurford,
C B Fitzhugh, 21st August 2000
Pitch 2 was originally
climbed as a variation to Slabs Ordinary Route on 21st May 2000
by C Read and W F Hurford
Slabs Ordinary
Route - the first and last sections are pretty much as before
the rockfall. The rock scar is fairly simply overcome by a right
to left zig. Overall though there are a few loose blocks around.
Grade: Diff. (BC). Note
from Colin Read: With regard to Slabs Ordinary
Route Will Hurford repeated it and re-established the line just
left of the rock fall scar, on good solid rock, in 2000.
Grey Sombrero 50m HS
An interesting but wandering line, following the ridge just right of the gully bounding Chockstone Ridge. Start up Sauviter.
1 27m. Follow Sauviter to the crack on pitch 2, then traverse left to a good spike on the arete. Move up 2 metres, then traverse left across a steep wall to a ledge and small wire belays.
2 23m. Move left to the ridge overlooking the grassy gully, and follow this directly over several steps, finishing up a short steep groove.
Alan Phizacklea, John Holden, 6th May 2006
John Major 26m HVS+ / E1
Good climbing, a little dirty at the bottom.
Start between Sauviter and Lucky Strike (5a, maybe 5b?).
Climb a crack which runs into a recess in the overlap, and pull over using a dubious hold to the traverse of Sauviter. Step right (tiny spike) and climb the crinkled wall to a crack and ledges above, then follow the V-groove and twin cracks of Grey Wall to the ledge. Climb the centre of the headwall to finish.
Alan Phizacklea, John Holden, 15th April 2006
Lucky
Strike 47m VS
Fine
positions on the left edge of Grey Wall. Start just left
of Suaviter.
1
23m (4c). Climb onto the wall past shattered blocks and follow
the left edge. Move right to the bulge, pull over it and up to
the block at the foot of the crack on pitch 2 of Suaviter. Move
left to the edge and follow it throughout to a large stance.
2
24m. Trend up left to a short steep groove, up this and slabs
above.
C
Read, NF Tonkin, 11th October 1992. (A welcome return to the Lakeland
new route scene by
Colin
Read, with his "little black book", after many years
absence.)
AP says: Lucky Strike is nowhere near VS. The start is delicately poised on sloping holds, good (5a) and quite necky. The only runner I got was a lonely skyhook, which reduces the grip factor to HVS. Otherwise, I'd recommend E1 as a grade. You've got to be confident at soloing 5a to lead this route.
 |
Brahma 43m E1
Steep,
interesting, on good rock, and low in the grade.
Start
4 metres right of Raven Crack, beneath a narrow buttress.
(5b).
Climb directly up the left side to where it steepens, move
up and pull right into a hanging groove. Climb this to enter
a recess beneath the overhang. Move left and up, climb above
the overhang to the top.
C
Read, NF Tonkin, GL Swainbank, WAF Gladstone, 24th
June 2001
Photo:
Tony Gladstone on the first ascent of Brahma (Colin
Read)
|
Oxford
& Cambridge Buttress
I Spy 30m D*
Good climbing
on excellent rock up the grooved rib to the left of Oxford and Cambridge Ordinary Route.
Start 3 metres
up and left of the polished chimney of Central
Route at a fine rib to the left of a vegetated groove. Climb
the rib and follow a steep groove through the bulge above to a
slab and open square chimney/groove. Pull up the steep wall above
via a short chimney/crack and climb rightwards to the top, or,
better, move up right to the right arete and step up before pulling
back left opver a bulge and into a grey scoop.
SJH Reid, CAJ
Reid (aged 8!) 14th May 2000
Variation: SJH Reid, M Armitage, 11th September 2005
Central
Route deserves two stars perhaps.
There seems to
be some muddle about the routes on the left hand side of this
crag, with descriptions of Oxford
& Cambridge Ordinary, Central Route and Oxford & Cambridge
Direct varying considerably over the years. The best start for
Central Route would appear to be the obvious well-climbed shallow
chimney, on the left side of the left-hand wall, which leads direct
to the overhung groove. That being so there was an obvious gap
between Central Route and Oxford & Cambridge Direct which
has now been filled with:-
Oxbridge Entrance 40m S*
Start at the
centre of the left hand side of the crag, between the shallow
chimney of Central Route on the left and the stepped
groove of Oxford & Cambridge
Ordinary Route on the right.
Climb a grassy
crack to a shallow right facing groove and on up grassy slabs
to a possible stance beneath the bulging crack at the start of
the second pitch of Oxford & Cambridge Direct. Climb up
to the foot of the crack and then avoid it by traversing left
(at hand or foot level) along a horizontal crack in the slab on
the left until it is possible to move up to a ledge. Climb rightwards
up the wall above to a pronounced crack, midway between the crack
of Central Route on
the left and the ârete of Oxford
& Cambridge Direct on the right, and follow it to the
top.
SJH Reid, JE
Reid, 23rd June 1999 (It is impossible to be sure whether this
is a new route or not, and it is quite likely that it has been
climbed before though not recorded. It is however a good pitch,
and that is undoubtedly more important.)
University
Challenge 37m
VS
Start
3m right of Oxford & Cambridge Direct at a thin crack
left of Dexter Wall.
1
15m (4b). Climb the crack line direct to ledge above.
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