 |
DOW, DUDDON
& SLATE
Duddon - Above Cockley Beck
(pages 264 - 283)
Page numbers refer to the FRCC Guide:
Dow, Duddon & Slate (1994) |
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FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB
of the
English Lake District |
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A Plea for Photographs |
Photos of crags in good light in summer are needed for the next edition of this guide. Please contact the FRCC Guidebook Photographs Editor if you think you have any such photos (in any format). Needless to say any good action photos would also be well received - for these we need to know: crag, route, grade, pitch, name of climber, name of photographer. You don't get paid I'm afraid, but you will get a free guidebook if we use any of your pictures! |
DUDDON
Cockley Crag
(p265) |
|
The altitude
in the guide is wrong, it's more like 380m (AP).
Cochlear Implant 11 m VD
Between
Cock-o-Leekie and Cockroach. Climb the slab with
the thin crack, finishing just left of the cockroach corner. No
stars at all.
Andy
Malony, Dave Morton, May 1994
Cockchafer
9m S
The crack just left of Cock-Eyed.
M Lynch, D Kay, 14th July 2002
Cock-A-Hoop
9m HS
Straight up the thin mossy streak just right of Cock-Eyed.
M Lynch, D Kay, 14th July 2002
Prawn Cocktail
Rib
immediately left of Cock and Bull.
D.
Morton (solo), May 1994
Cock Sure HS
Steep
between Cockburn's Revenge and Cock to Spare.
Ted
Rogers, MK, 25th September 1996
Cock to Spare HVS/E1
(5b)
Crack line 3m right of Cockburn's Revenge. Start off rock
step.
FI,
Ted Rogers, 25th September 1996
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DUDDON
Cockley Upper Crag
(249 028 Alt 500m South facing)
|
| The
main buttress lying 300m directly above Cockley Crag. It
is rather broken in appearance.
Top Cock
14m HVS
Thin and awkward climbing, starting in a recess in the centre
of the crag, it follows the clean rounded pillar between the moss.
(5a). Climb up to a ledge, then up and left to a good hold and
a short crack, which has a precarious finish.
Al Phizacklea solo 2nd April 2005
The rounded
clean slabs to the right of this line is a pleasant M or D, this
lies next to the footpath, and as such it may have been climbed
before by scramblers.
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DUDDON
Cockley Crag West (p267) |
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Midget Gem 13m S
From the lowest point of the crag, which is on the left, climb
directly up the mossy rock: after about 3m the rock becomes clean. Continue up the stepped rock to the top.
Protection is poor.
Paul C Bennett (solo), 3rd September 1998
Too Many Cocks E2
(5b)
Crack and step between Stopcock and Half Cocked.
Ted
Rogers, NT, 25th September 1996
Another Fun Day Out 11m El
(5b). The crack 1m to the left of Half Cocked. Climb
the crack which slants to the left and then to the right, continue
up the right until the crag steepens sharply and finish up Half
Cocked on the right about 3m from the top.
Protection is poor.
Paul C Bennett (solo), 3rd September 1998
Rainy Day People 13m HVS
lm left of, and 1m higher than Stopcock there is a crack
with some shrubbery at its base.
(5a/5b). Climb this, hard to start, and make a rising traverse
across the crag. Finish up a crack/corner on the right. Protection is poor after the initial crack.
Paul
C Bennett (solo), 3rd September 1998
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DUDDON
Little Stand Crag (p267) |
|
Central Buttress
Tomorrow's Hero E6
(6c)
The steep crackline on the central buttress.
David
Birkett, 23rd June 1996
Big Little
Man 18m MVS
Not
the world's best route, but it fills a gap. Start
8metres left of Little Big Man, at the left end of a short
overhanging wall
(4a). Climb the left edge of the overhanging wall by making use
of a mossy groove, to reach a ledge. Tip-toe right along this,
pull onto a higher ledge and finish up the groove above.
Al Phizacklea (solo) 2nd April 2005
Nose Buttress
Yankee 17m VS
(4c) Start 5m left of Gringo at left-hand of 2 steep
grooves. Straight up, move right and then up twin mossy cracks
to finish.
M Lynch (solo), 3rd July 1994
Hi-Fi
23m E2
A fine route with a boulder problem start, just right of Gringo.
(6a). Pull over the overhang on layaways to enter the groove right
of Gringo. Pull up the arete on the right then follow
the groove above to the top.
David Armstrong (solo), 25th June 1996
Bookend
Wall Area
Doodle 15m VS
(4c)
Start 5m right of Bolting Bill. Up a left slanting crack.
M
Lynch, J Holden, B McKinley, 3rd July 1994
Lower Slab
Escape from the In-Laws S
Start about 2 metres up left from the toe of the buttress.
Follow a vague broken crackline to the top.
Paul C Bennett ( solo), 20th June 2005 |
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DUDDON
Little Stand Summit Crag
(p275) |
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A
fine crag offering superb clean knobbly rock.
Blackbeard 20m
MVS
Start
as for Dark Haired Warrior.
(4b).
Climb the right edge of the wrinkly slab to the grass ledge, then
climb the deep groove bounding the right side of the face.
J
Daly (solo), 19th October 1997
Rhubarb
22m HVS
Start around the corner about 8 metres right of The Dark Haired
Warrior.
(5a). Scramble up to a short wall with a prominent crack and pull
up to a ledge. Follow the curving crack above to a mossy niche,
and finish up a groove.
Al Phizacklea, Steve Merry, 12th May 2005
The Thunder Dragon 24m
E2 (high in grade).
A
teasing route starting just left of Group 4.
(5c).
Climb direct up to the recess in the centre of the slab, pull
awkwardly into it and precariously gain height using its left
edge until a reach up right to a small hollow flake allows progress
to the ledge. Climb the bulging left edge of the open niche of
Group 4.
J Daly (unseconded), 22nd November 1997
Left
again is a steeper wall with 2 vague cracks leading up to a diagonal
weakness through a bulge at 11 metres. Ticket To The Moon
starts at the right side of this wall beneath the feint right
hand crack.
Ticket To The Moon 24m
E3
(6a).
Climb the crack using two small pockets then make an awkward sequence
of moves up the wall to a pinch grip. Move up then left to good
holds in the diagonal break above the bulge. Easier slabby climbing
leads to the top.
J Daly, D Geere, 22nd October 1997
Good
climbing with fair protection, the grade is probably (5c) - AP.
The
left hand crack and bulge is taken by,
Toots 20m E3
A pleasant route with a
thin start, following a thin crack and bulge 5 metres right of
A Vroom with a Ewe.
(5c). Climb the crack then
straight up over a bulge. Easier slabs above lead to the top.
David Armstrong, Mark Hetherington,
14th September 1996
Turd
20m VS
(4c). The mossy crack and groove between Toots and Toad,
finishing up the right rib.
Al Phizacklea (solo), 12th May 2005
Just
left is a slim steep pillar of rock taken by,
Toad 20m E3
Steep
fingery climbing up the narrow face just right of the V-groove
right of A Vroom with a Ewe.
(5c)
From the foot of the groove pull up right onto the wall and straight
up to ledges. Easier climbing direct to the top.
David
Armstrong, Nick Barraclough, 14th July 1996
Teardrop Explodes 22m
MVS
Good
climbing up the bookend corner just right of A Vroom with a
Ewe, (left of Toad).
(4b).
Bridge up the corner using the left arete until a ledge is gained.
Pull out left then climb up pleasantly to finish up the right
side of the headwall of A Vroom with a Ewe.
D
Geere, J Daly, 27th October
1997
Cabin Boy 18m E3
(6a).
The crackline just left of Captain Crater, followed by
an easy continuation rib to the top.
Chris
Thorpe, Rick Graham, 22nd June 1995 (First ascent details are
wrong in 1995 supplement)
One for the Money 14m MVS
(4b).
Up a groove left of Captain Crater to a huge detached block.
Make a long stride right then straight up.
M
Lynch (solo) 25th June 1995
The True Show 11m
E1 (Two for the Show - direct)
(5c).
Start just left of One for the Money. Climb the arete direct
without using holds on the two routes alongside. A technical eliminate.
J
Daly (solo), 22nd November 1997
Three to Get Ready 10m HVS
(5a)
Just left of the arete up to an obvious square hold then a crack
to the top.
M
Lynch (solo) 25th June 1995
A
repeat ascentionist has described this as a pleasant route but
only VS (4c), not HVS (5a).
Two for the Show 9m HVS
(5a).
The arete just left of Three to Get Ready
M
Lynch (solo) 25th June 1995
It
has been suggested that the “95/96 New routes supplement” description
is wrong and the route climbs the arete just left of One for the
Money. Howewever if it is the same arete Two for the Show seems
unlikely to merit an HVS grade, unless the arete was climbed using
holds on the routes alongside (eg: the obvious square hold on
Three to Get Ready), which might make it rather contrived.
Aviation Fuel 10m
E1
(5b).
Climbs the thin crackline in between Three to Get Ready
and Clapped Out, finishing by a rock scar.
J
Daly (solo), 19th October 1997
Angelic Upstart 8m
E1
(5b/c).
Start just left of Clapped Out. Climb the thin crack past
an obvious triangular hold at 5 metres.
J
Daly (solo), 22nd November 1997
On The Rocks 10m
HVS
Start
3 metres right of Go Man Go, just right of a small overhang
at 3 metres.
(5a).
Climb a wrinkly slab/wall trending left above the overhang then
straight up to a ledge. Climb the short wall above.
J
Daly (solo), 22nd November 1997
Go Man Go 8m S
The
V-groove starting just right of a block 10 metres left of Clapped
Out.
M
Lynch (solo) 25th June 1995
Dodgy Deals 8m
VS
(5a).
Climbs the tricky crack high in the rib just left of Go Man
Go.
J
Daly (solo), 22nd November 1997
14
metres right of Blackbeard is a short wrinkly bouldering
wall offering:-
The Plum 8m
E2
(5c).
Climb the awkward steep left side of the wrinkly wall, pulling
out right at the top.
J Daly (solo), 27th November 1997
The Prune 8m MVS
(4b).
The shorter right side of the wrinkly wall, then trend easily
up left.
J Daly (solo), 27th November 1997
75
metres further up right behind Summit Crag is an edge containing
a number of good problems. The best two are up near
the left end.
Pin Prick 10m
HVS/E1
(5b).
Climb the centre of the obvious pocketed Pincushion slab
to gain a short hanging corner, then direct over the oblong overlap
above.
J
Daly (solo), 19th October 1997
Top Deck 8m
E1
Takes
a short steep wall 16 metres left of Pin Prick. Start 1
metre right of a moss streak.
(5c).
Climb directly up the centre of the wall using precarious layaways
to gain a shallow scoop and the top holds.
J
Daly (solo), 19th October 1997
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DUDDON
Red How
(252 029
Alt 600m South facing) |
|
Found on the
hillside between Cockley Crag and Gaitscale Buttress,
this steep little crag remains hidden from the road by a wide
terrace on the hillside below it. The rock is steep, fast drying,
but it tends to have a fair amount of black moss in some areas.
Left-Hand
Wall
There is a dirty niche at floor level in the centre of the crag.
8 metres left of this is the first clean wall. The route numbers
refer to the diagram
1 Waylon
Smithers 8m VS
(4c). Start 10metres left of the niche at a good flat landing,
and climb the centre of a clean wall.
Steve Merry, (solo), 12th May 2005
2 Monty
Burns 9m HVS
(4c). Follow the central crackline up the wall, finishing up a
short groove.
Al Phizacklea, (solo), 12th May 2005
3 Reverend
Lovejoy 9m E1
(5a). Follow the steep thin crack to a small overhang near the
top, this is overcome by a long reach for a flat hold and a rounded
finish.
Steve Merry (solo), 12th May 2005
4 Troy
McClure 8m S
Six metres left of the niche is a square block on the ground.
Stand on this and climb the flake line above.
Al Phizacklea (solo), 12th May 2005
There is a
moderate descent scramble down the broken rib here.
5 Sideshow
Bob 10m E1
(5b). A good route. Move up the left side of a steep wall to a
Friend slot, and follow the flaky line above to a good hold, finish
on the left.
Al Phizacklea, Steve Merry, 12th May 2005
6 Krusty
the Clown 10m E2
(5c). Climb the right side of the wall, not touching the groove
on the right, to poor wires in the centre and finish out left
on Sideshow Bob. The direct finish is E3 (6a), but has
not been led.
Steve Merry, Al Phizacklea, 12th May 2005
7 Barney
9m VS
(4c). The obvious central niche and mossy line above.
Al Phizacklea (solo), 12th May 2005
8 Homer
Simpson 12m E3
(5c). Excellent bold climbing starting 2 metres right of the niche.
Boulder up left past a dubious Flexi-Friend to reasonable holds,
and make a long reach right to an awkward exit (Micro-Friend).
Follow the easier pillar above.
Steve Merry, Al Phizacklea, 12th May 2005
9 Nick
Riviera 11m HS
Climb the prominent flake line 5 metres right of the niche.
Al Phizacklea (solo), 2nd April 2005
10 Ned
Flanders 11m HVS
(5a). A good route starting 3 metresright of Nick Riviera.
Boulder up left to ledges, then step right and climb the thin
crack up the wall above.
Al Phizacklea, Steve Merry, 12th May 2005
11 Chief
Wiggum 11m E1
(5b). Another good line, following the crack right of Ned Flanders
to finish up a fine cracked groove.
Steve Merry, Al Phizacklea, 12th May 2005
12 Nelson
8m VD
The chocky flake crack at the right side of the crag above a sapling.
Al Phizacklea (solo), 12th May 2005
Right-Hand
Wall
This is more broken than the Left-Hand Wall, there are descents
at either end.
13 Moe
7m VS
(4b). The slabby groove on the left of the wall.
Al Phizacklea (solo), 2nd April 2005
14 Fat
Tony 9m MVS
(4a) The wall right of the prominent corner.
Al Phizacklea (solo), 2nd April 2005
15 Julius
Hibbert 8m VS
(4b). Climb the steep shallow corner just right of the hanging
groove.
Al Phizacklea solo 2/4/05
16 Santa's Little Helper 8m VS
(4c). The overhanging wall and crack above just right of Julius Hibbert.
Al Phizacklea (solo), 2nd April 2005
17 Otto 7m HVS
(5a). The steep, short arete.
Al Phizacklea (solo), 2nd April 2005
18 Snake 6m HS
The prominent crack at the right side of the crag has a steep entry on good holds.
Al Phizacklea (solo), 2nd April 2005
Beanpole 6m HVS
(5a/b).To the right and round the corner of Snake is a narrow wall; climb this direct on good but small positive holds.
Paul C Bennett (solo), 30th April 2006
Photodiagram shows line of Beanpole (HVS). |
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DUDDON
Gaitscale Buttress
(p276) |
|
Left
Buttress
Stanage Edge HVS*
(5b).
The arete on the left of the buttress.
Martin Bagness Ian Almond, 3rd July 2005
Ian Almond and Martin Bagness also did Back Seat Driver (E1
5b*) on the same day (description awaited).
Pauly E2
An
interesting steep problem up the wall left of Instant Karma. Start
at a small overhang right of a prominent crack.
(5c/6a).
Climb up with a long reach for a small flake, swing up slightly
left, then straight up to ledges. Easier climbing direct to the
top.
David
Armstrong, Nick Baraclough, 14th July 1996
Main Buttress
Anniversary
Wall 25m E2
(5c). Climb the
rounded rib right of Crack
of Dawn avoiding the grassy corner. Move left through the
bulges above by a layback/egyptian move. Finish up the last few
metres of Crack of Dawn.
Ted Rogers, Rick
Graham, 29th April 1999
Hesitation 25m E2
A direct start
and right hand finish to The
Masterplan. Several line slings will be found useful. Start
a few metres left of The Masterplan.
(5b). Climb to
a good hold at 3m, then up (skyhook) and right to the nut runner
on The Masterplan. Continue up to the left-hand
of two short open cracks. Move left onto the rib to finish.
Rick Graham,
Ted Rogers, 29th April 1999
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DUDDON
Cold Pike Crag, Ulpha Fell |
| This
is the west-facing crag about 200 metres west of the summit of Cold
Pike and over looking Wrynose Bottom above Cockley Beck, Duddon
Valley. It is the highest crag of the series of crags on this fellside
known as Gaitkins, and has been referred to elsewhere as
Far Upper Gaitkins. It is most easily reached from the summit
of Wrynose Pass. Follow the path north west to below Long Crag.
Cross the flat boggy area to the west and pick up the path leading
up to the southern shoulder of Cold Pike. Continue up towards the
summit of Cold Pike. On reaching the electric fence, follow this
west for 100 or 200 metres (don't cross it). Eventually the crag
is reached below you but is not obvious from this direction! To
approach it from below takes a longer time. It is about 40 minutes
from the road.
Three routes
were recorded here by Brian Davison and Pete Carter in 1998. Tom
Walkington and Jim Cooper visited the crag in 2002 and 2003, producing
a range of additional routes. Mostly the routes are suitable for
beginners or oldies. In character it is similar to the neighbouring
Black Crag, Pike O'Blisco - superb rock, superb situation,
very quick drying, facing the sun and accessible but with an additional
advantage of solitude (so far!).
Taken together
with the Gaitkins Crags (an extra 10 minutes further on
below), this area has a wide range of excellent routes which could
make Wrynose an even more popular rock climbing centre.
The crag is
divided into three sections. Main Sector (on the left),
Right Wall and Upper Right Bay.
Main Sector
This
is the left-hand side of the crag, at least 30 metres high and
mostly easy-angled. Most of the routes start from the wide grassy
shelf part way up near to the Rock Crevasse.
Star Turn
D 30m
From the boulder field below the left side of the crag gain a
ledge and then a wide corner/flake crack. Then take the easiest
line to the top.
Jim Cooper, 6th October 2002
Happy Days
MS 30m **
From the Rock Crevasse take a direct way up to the top
via the right side of a blunt rib at half height. Both easier
and harder variations are possible but protection can be sparse.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 6th October 2002
Four Falls
E2 30m
1 10m (4c). Hand crack and then a scramble.
2 20m (6a). The innocuous looking crack in the wall to the right
of Davison's Corner.
Martin Bagness, Steve Ashworth, May 2005 2002
Davison's
Corner VD 30m *
This takes the obvious left-facing corner in the upper part of
the face. The easy-angled rock beneath the corner is reached from
near to Happy Days by a variety of ways (up to 4b). The
corner is straight-forward.
Brian Davison, Pete Carter 4th October 1998
Hip, Hip,
Hooray VS 30m **
1 10m (5a). From the grassy shelf, find a way up the centre of
the steep wall to the large ledge below and right of Davison's
Corner.
2 20m (4c). Climb the wall immediately to the right of Davison's
Corner.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 6th October 2002
Right Wall
This
is the obvious 10 metre wall to the right of the Main Sector,
with a crack running the full height up the centre (Mid
Life Crisis).
Edjukashun,
Edjukashun, Edjukashun E2 10m *
(5c). Climb the left arete and wall of Mid Life Crisis.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 6th October 2002
Mid Life
Crisis VS 10m **
(5a). Climb the crack.
Brian Davison, Pete Carter 4th October 1998
Carter's
Climb. S 10m
Climb the right edge of the wall taken by Mid Life Crisis.
Brian Davison, Pete Carter 4th October 1998
The following routes have also been claimbed by Paul C Bennett (solo) on 24th April 2005. It is not known exactly how they relate to the above.
1. Bramble E1
In the middle of the lower wall to the right of the rock crevasse is a crack.
(5b).
Climb this direct using the crack and the wall on the right side.
2. The Shipping News VS
Start about 2 metres to the right of Davison's Corner in the upper part of the face and right of an obvious crack.
(4b).
Climb the wall direct to the top. The easier rock below is climbed to reach the wall.
3. Sunshine Cracks S
Start from a grassy ledge just to the right of Right Wall, about 2 metres higher.
Climb a fine crack to a small overlap running up right. Move left and follow another easier crack to the top.
4 . Moss Streak S
About 2 metres right there is a dark mossy streak.
Climb this and the wall above.
Direct variation finish. About half way up there is a narrow ledge on the right. Move right along the ledge and climb the wall to the top.
5. Mossy E1 5b
Start 2 metres to the right of Moss Streak where the wall starts to get mossy again.
(5b). Climb the wall below a large block overhanging near the top. Finish either side of the block (might be easier if cleaned).
6. Twin Cracks S
To the right of Mossy, and right of the mossy corner, there is a narrow slab.
From the bottom, climb a gangway/crack to the right side, follow broken cracks to a ledge, and climb the crack in the centre of the wall at the back of the ledge. |
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|
Upper Right
Bay
Forty
metres to the right, and at a higher level, is a cosy little bay
with a wall about 6 to 8 metres high. Seven routes have been done
here, but these do not include the featureless wall above the
large flat boulder. The routes are:
VD. Climb the far left edge via small ledges.
S. Climb the crack just to the left of the large flat boulder.
Finish up the rib and blocks.
S. Right of the flat boulder climb the crack and ledge finishing
left.
HS (4b). Climb straight up the wall and crack to an impending
finish.
VS (5a). Climb the crack forming the left side of the slab direct
to the top.
VS (4c). Climb the centre of the slab.
S. Climb the rib and V-groove on the right of the slab.
All routes:Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 5th April 2003.
Paul C Bennet has also soloed the routes listed below. It is not certain how these relate to the lines above. |
1. VD
2. S
3. S
4. S
5. VS (4b)
6. VS (4b)
7. VS (4b) |
|
8. VS (4c)
9. VS (4c)
10. VS (5a)
11.
VS (5a)
12.
S |
 |
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DUDDON
Upper Gaitkins (p279) |
|
Plaque
Slab (256 030)
This is the south-facing granite slab, a short stroll 75 metres
west of Upper Gaitkins
The
smooth granite slab is in a tranquil location above the small
tarn. It has an east-facing right-hand wall of volcanic rock,
visible from Upper Gaitkins. Both slab and wall have yielded
a number of absorbing routes that complement the climbing at Upper
Gaitkins. All the routes are on sound rock, however, where
Plaque Slab and the Right Wall meet, there are several
perched granite flakes that need to be avoided.
 |
|
The
routes
are described from left to right.
On Plaque Slab, there is a prominent Nose
that juts out of the slab at 5M height.
1
Brass Plaque Vandals 13m VS.
(4b). Pull up just left of the Nose onto the main
slab. Climb up the slab, trending slightly left, to finish
up a faint rib.
Jimmy
Eccles, Mike Willoughby, 30th March 2005
2
Plaque Attack 12m VS
Start one metre to the right of the nose.
(4c). Climb straight up, past a rock spike, to gain the
leftward-slanting gangway. Follow the gangway up left to
a large flat foot-ledge, The Tablemat. Step left,
and climb directly up the slab by the steepest line.
Jimmy Eccles, Mike Willoughby, 30th March 2005
Plaque Attack only HS (4b) - Wet and cold conditions on the first ascent led to an over-grading of the original line.
Direct Start
Superior to the original line and makes the original way somewhat redundant.
Pull directly onto the jutting nose (The nose is above the head of the figure in the picture) in the middle of the slab using a flakey pocket. Continue directly up the slab by the steepest line. A very pleasant evening route!
Mike Willoughby, Martin Bagness, 2nd April 2007
3
Trench Town Rock 14m MS
Follow Plaque Attack to the Tablemat. Toe-traverse
horizontally right for 2m, then follow the left-slanting
crack to the top.
Mike Willoughby, Jimmy Eccles, 30th March 2005
The
next climb is on right wall.
4
Reluctant Snowmen 8m S
On the left side of the right wall is an overhanging niche.
Climb the niche, then step right and finish up the steep
headwall above.
Mike Willoughby, Jimmy Eccles, 30th March 2005
Ted Rogers states that "Plaque Slab is a bit over-rated as one can solo anywhere at about severe standard. Perhaps worth one line in the Guide."
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Photo: Jimmy Eccles about to commit to the crux moves on Plaque Attack (Mike Willoughby).
|
Smooth Slabs
Once Bitten 9m S
The
middle of the slab 30 metres left of Seriously Smooth.
M
Lynch (solo) 25th June 1995
The Mountain Ringlet* E1
(5b/c?)
Climbs the slab left of Seriously Smooth.
Ted
Rogers, Rick Graham, 1st August 1995
* This is the name given on the Lakes Rock Topo.
Deserves E2 and worth a star (Al Phizacklea). Suggests description should read "Climb up to a conspicuous hold below the short crack in the centre of the slab, continue, using the rounded crack on the right, until a hard rock-over left onto a small edge allows a finish up the centre of the slab."
Seriously
Smooth - the flake has broken off. It will obviously be harder
and is not known to have been repeated. Al Phizacklea however says that the flake has not been broken off and the grade is unchanged (Feb '08).
The Scoop 25m S
Climb the peapod like scoop 6 metres left of Runnynose. Then directly to the top.
D.Wearing MJ Knight, 29 April 2006
Nick's
Route 16m VD
Cracks left of Runny Nose.
Nick Evans, Tom Walkington, 23rd March 2003
Diamond Wall
Snecklifter 12m MVS
(4b)
Just to the left of Ratbag is an arete. Climb the arete
and pull through the overlap. Follow the crack directly overhead
- protection in the upper crack.
Gareth
Dearlove, G Wilson, A Blackburn, 11th June 1995
John Shuttleworth 14m E3
(5c).
Climb the wall between Ratbag and Jilted John.
A strenuous and unprotected start up the bottomless groove/corner
in the middle of the wall then use the left arete after about
5m to continue to a flake crack and follow this easily to the
top.
B.
Davison (solo), 26th September 1998
Pigs in Shit E3
(5c/6a)
The thin crack left of Iced Diamond.
Rick
Graham, Ted Rogers, 1st August 1995
Repeated
(with Direct Finish over roof above) by Dave Armstrong
and Nick Baraclough and thought to be E4, 6a. Al Phizacklea says "excellent gear in the lower crack but only a single micro-wire to protect the upper wall. Serious, the direct finish is particularly hard, possibly E5 to lead?"
Ahabs 12m E4
(6a).
Climb the wall and arete between Thar She Blows and Iced
Diamond. Start up a crack in the wall between the above
two routes and when this runs out side pull on the left arete
until it is possible to pull onto a ledge on the arete.
Move back right and follow the corner through the roof
and continue easily to the top.
B
Davison (unseconded), 26th September 1998
This
is probably Pigs in Shit.
Seven
Pillars
Slab Route 9m VS
Left
of Cool Hand Luke is another mossy crack then a clean slab.
(4c).
Climb the slab direct with thinner VS moves at the top or escape
right into the top of the mossy crack at HS.
B
Davison (solo), 26th September 1998
Al Phizacklea says this is the same as Virginia.
Virginia 9 m MVS
(4b)
The slab just right of Arizona.
M
Lynch (solo) 25th June 1995
Cool Hand Luke 10m HVS
(4c).
Climb the slab to the left of the mossy crack at the top of Cool
Hand Fluke.
B
Davison (solo), 26th September 1998
This
may be Arizona. Al Phizacklea says "very contrived - it is impossible to keep oot of Tennessee."
Tennessee 9m MS
The
mossy crack just left of Cool Hand Flake
M
Lynch (solo) 25th June 1995
Twice Stung 9m S
Clean
slab left of Deep Freeze.
M
Lynch (solo) 25th June 1995
Narrow
Square Pillar VD*
Forty metres to the right of Cool Hand Fluke.
Martin Bagness (solo), May 2005
Heather's Ledge 11m VS
(4c)
Start as for Deep Freeze. At the ledge traverse right to
below a small heather choked ledge. Climb the crack above on the
left-hand side of the slabs taken by Four Play - protection
at the heather ledge behind a flake and in the crack above.
Gareth
Dearlove, G Wilson, A Blackburn, 11th June 1995
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DUDDON
Middle Gaitkins
(GR 258034) Alt. 630m |
|
Thrice-Claimed
The
crag is 100 metres right and slightly lower than Upper Gaitkins
with two obvious thin cracklines in the front face.
Pedestal Route 10m HS
Climb
to the base of the pedestal then take it on its left side to a
ledge and climb the short wall above.
B
Davison (solo), 26th September 1998
Left-Hand Crack 14m HVS (5a)
Rick
Graham, Ted Rogers, 1st August 1995
Also
claimed by B Davison as One Crack, 26th September 1998
Right-hand Crack (aka Thrice Claimed Crack)14m
E2 (5c)
Ted
Rogers, Rick Graham, 1st August 1995
Also claimed by B Davison as Two Crack, 26th September 1998
Wall Route 10m E3
(6b).
Sharp fingery climbing up the wall to the right of the twin cracks
leads to a mossy recess after some tricky moves by a small undercut.
Ted
Rogers and Ken Forsythe, 17th September 1995.
Also claimed by B.
Davison (after top rope inspection), 26th September 1998
Right Groove 10m VS
(4c).
The right hand end of the wall has a mossy streak at its base.
Pass this and enter a leftward trending depression to reach the
mossy recess and follow the wall to the top.
Ted
Rogers and Ken Forsythe, 17th September 1995.
Also claimed by B
Davison (solo), 26th September 1998
Right Arete 11m HS
Climb
the wall right of Right Groove to a broken arete and follow
this to the top.
Ted
Rogers and Ken Forsythe, 17th September 1995.
Also claimed by B
Davison (solo), 26th September 1998
|
DUDDON
Lower Gaitkins (p 281) |
|
Monkey
Grooves
The buttress
50 metres left of the slab containing Tuppin Harness. It is the furthest left
of the Lower Gaitkins’ buttresses, and is mentioned in the guide
as a “small steep grooved buttress, guarded by bands of overhangs”.
An obvious feature near the left end of the buttress is a prominent
sentry box high up a hanging arete. The first route starts 3 metres
left of here and climbs a finger crack. Routes described from
left to right.
|
Dog’s
Breakfast 10m MS
A short initial
slab leads up to the obvious crackline above. Follow this
to the top.
D Geere, J Daly
12th June 1999
Iron
in the Monkey 13m E2*
(5b). Start
as for Dog's Breakfast and climb up rightwards through
a small niche to the smooth upper wall. Move right to join
Monkey in Your Soul's gritsonesque top out.
Chris King, Stephen Reid, 1st July 2005
Monkey
in your Soul 13m E2*
A ‘gritstone
classic’, starting directly beneath the hanging sentry box.
(5c). Climb the
slab to an overhang and gain the sentry box above, either
direct or more easily from the right. Finish directly up
the wall above.
J Daly, D Geere,
12th June 1999
Thought this finish
5b, not 5c (CK, SR).
Photo
Right: Chris King on Iron in the Monkey (Stephen
Reid).
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