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Main Buttress
Gunga Din 64m MVS
Climbs
the right-bounding slab of Against All Odds rib. Start
as for Dressed For Success.
1
18m Pitch 1 of Dressed For Success.
2
23m (4b) Traverse left below the wall into a dirty corner. Move
up and step left onto the steep slab which is climbed to a belay
beneath an overhang.
3
23m (4b) Follow the crack to the left of the overhang to ledges
beneath the headwall (possible belay). Traverse left to an abrupt
finish up a short corner.
D
Geere, J J Geere, 15th August 1996
Valhalla
46m E2
A quality route on clean rock. Start as for Yggdrasil.
(5c). Climb the slab and right hand of two shallow corners to
a rock ledge. Pull onto the rock fin on the right, bridge the
prominent corner/sentry box right again, then climb the continuation
finger crack above to the flake on Odin. From its top climb
up rightwards to another good flake edge, then climb the slab
direct passing just left of two grass ledges to finish up the
right side of a rock nose above.
J Daly, K Phizacklea 2nd September 2002
Lap of the Gods 20m HVS*
The slim, slabby buttress lying in the middle of the open gully
to the immediate right of the Main Buttress. Start opposite
Odin at the foot of the buttress below a clean slab which
is undercut at its bottom.
(5a). A tricky move from the left side gains the excellent rough
slab. No gear until a horizontal break at 5 metres then easier
climbing up the slab to the top.
Simon Harvey, Peter Bardsley, 7th July 2005
Lower Buttress
Whore’s Drawers 36m VS
Fingery.
Takes a direct line through the prominent quartz streak. Start
just left of Hors D'Oeuvre.
(5a).
Climb directly up a steeper slabby pillar , just left of the easier
slab and jagged overhangs capping Hors D'Oeuvre, and continue
up through the quartz streak to a ledge. Up the grooved rib to
finish.
J
Daly, 5th April 1996.
Savage Skies 47m E3
(5c/6a)
A fine climb taking the exposed prow just left of the huge overhanging
corner. Start up the left facing corner of Triarder. From
the corner step left to a block then up left to the slabs left
edge. Climb this to beneath the right wall of the Prow.
Swing precariously out left onto the Prow, step left to
a tiny spike, then straight up the face above.
J
Daly, D Geere, 8th June 1996
Between
Triad Buttress and Grey Buttress is an additional
rib/buttress taken by Cold Front. Start 5 metres up the
right bounding gully of Triad Buttress.
Cold Front 44m S
Climb
direct over two flakes, pull steeply onto the rib above and follow
the easier angled rib line above to the top.
J
Daly, D Geere, 30th March 1996
Conquistador 25m E3
(5c/6a)
An excellent route up the imposing right arete of Grey Buttress.
Start up the crack of Grey Buttress, then move up right
to the overhang in the arete which is climbed direct to a marginal
peg runner. The arete above is followed in its entirety.
J.Daly,
D Geere, 17th June 1996
Grey Seal 22m E3
A line up right edge of buttress.
(5c). Climb short slanting crack. Move up to small overhang
on the right. Directly up flake holds to good wire. More easily
up right edge of slab to top.
T Thompson, Dave Rowan, 20th July 1997
Note from John
Daly: A route has also been claimed on Great Blake Rigg by Tony
Thompson (Grey Seal); the description sounds very much as though
it takes the same line as Conquistador that we put up at an earlier
date. Perhaps the very suspect peg runner that we had in the arete
has since fallen out!
Eighty
metres right of Grey Buttress, past some slabs, is another
buttress with a prominent central pinnacle. The next route climbs
the left rib of the buttress.
Crash Test Dummy 42m E1
1
26m (5b) Climb the stepped rib to a difficult mantleshelf onto
a rock ledge, from its right end climb a groove to a belay between
two large pinnacles.
2
16m (4b) Chimney up behind the left-hand pinnacle and pull onto
the rib above, up this to the top. Belay well back.
J
Daly, D Geere 30th March 1996
Achtung Spitfire 40m E2
(5c)
Start 6 metres right of Crash Test Dummy. From the left
end of the glacis step up right over a small juniper, then climb
up and through the crack in the overhanging wall above to gain
easier ground. Climb the wide crack up the pinnacle on the right
and up the rock above.
J
Daly (1 in-situ wire), 7th September 1996
Woolyback Jumper 40m MVS
(4b/c).
6 metres right of the central toe of the buttress is a rock letterbox.
Climb the rib line above to a large ledge on the right, then climb
the slab behind breaking out left to finish. Belay well back.
J.Daly,
D.Geere 17,5,96.
Upper Wall
Flakey Wall
15m HS
Twenty-five metres to the left of Outside Left Slab, on
the upper wall, lies a steep wall with a line of flakes up it,
climb these. Strenuous.
Simon Harvey, Peter Bardsley, 7th July 2005
Outside Left Arete 15m HS
The arete left of Outside Left Slab.
Peter Bardsley, Simon Harvey, 7th July 2005
The next route starts just right of Outside
Left Slab and climbs the right edge of the slab. Masonic
Connotations is the stepped arête further right.
Armadillo
12m VS
(5a). Up a short steep diagonal crack to the overlap, pull over
rightwards and use small layaway flakes to climb up to the right
arête which is followed to the top.
J Daly, D Geere 5th May 2002.
Kleptomaniacs 15m E4/5
Start
3 metres right of Laypincher.
(6b).
A short wall and crack lead to a steep cracked wall. Make a series
of difficult moves up past a peg, to a flare at the top of a very
thin diagonal crack, (wires in flare). Move up to small ledges
and finish rightwards around short rib.
T
Thompson, R Southall, 2nd June 1996
Beano Buttress
The next routes
are situated on a buttress about 50 metres below and right of the
The Upper Wall. The left side consists
of easy angled slabs whereas the right side is a shorter steep wall
split by a horizontal break/overlap.
Dandy 20m
MVS
(4b). Start 3
metres left of Beano.
Gain the left side of a perched triangular block then pull up
left beneath an overhang, surmount it to gain a ledge above and
from its right-hand end climb a bulge then easier slabs to the
top.
J Daly solo,
16th July 2000
Beano 20m S
On
the clean buttress right of the upper wall. Start in the middle
of the wall at an obvious jamming crack. Up the crack and then
the right-hand side of a big jammed flake then straight up to
the top.
M
Lynch, B McKinley 16th July 1994
The next route
starts 5 metres right of Beano.
Take care with a perched flake in the corner.
The
Mantrap 20m VS/HVS
(4c). Climb the
obvious leftward curving corner making an awkward exit out left
at its top to gain a hidden layaway flake. Finish up easier slabs
passing a tiny overhang.
J Daly solo,
16th July 2000
Mighty
Mouse 14m VS
Start between Mantrap and Scary Canary.
(4c). Climb the prominent corner and spaced blocky holds above.
J Daly (solo), 1st September 2002
Scary
Canary 11m HVS
(5a). Start 4
metres right of The Mantrap.
Climb the left trending crack with awkward moves to gain the horizontal
break, finish up the broken groove line above.
J Daly solo,
16th July 2000
Beezer 11m E1
(5c). Start 2
metres right of Scary Canary.
Climb the blank centre of the wall using small undercuts to start.
Surmount the bulging overlap above to finish on good holds.
J Daly solo,
16th July 2000
Topper 11m VS
(4c). Start just
right of Beezer at the
right-hand end of the wall. Flake holds and layaways lead to the
break/overlap. Finish up the dirty groove above or better, traverse
2m left and finish as for
Beezer.
J Daly solo,
16th July 2000
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