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Last Updated: 5/4/08

	DOW, DUDDON & SLATE Duddon - South Duddon Valley (pages 196 - 233) Page numbers refer to the FRCC Guide: Dow, Duddon & Slate (1994)
		FELL and ROCK CLIMBING CLUB of the English Lake District

A Plea for Photographs

Photos of crags in good light in summer are needed for the next edition of this guide. Please contact the FRCC Guidebook Photographs Editor if you think you have any such photos (in any format). Needless to say any good action photos would also be well received - for these we need to know: crag, route, grade, pitch, name of climber, name of photographer. You don't get paid I'm afraid, but you will get a free guidebook if we use any of your pictures!

DUDDON
Dunnerholme - Askam In Furness - The Rock (800 210)

West-facing sea-level cove, on the limestone plug in the Duddon Estuary. Mentioned in the Lancashire Guide. Not worth a long detour, in fact even the local sport climbers can’t be bothered with it!

Routes described from the right looking in. Rather shattered limestone. Routes are 8-9 m in length. Bolt route grades are English. Ample belay stakes at top. Bolts are M12 Stainless, Hilti Resin anchors, minimum 6" long.

La Villa Strangiato E1

(5b). Short wall direct to upper arete.

R Southall, 1st August 1993

Different Strings HVS

(5a). Overhangs to horizontal break, finishing slightly rightwards.

R Southall, T Thompson, 1985

Natural Science E2

(5c). The thin crack in short white wall gained by rising traverse from left (can be done direct).

R Southall, T Thompson, 8th August 1996

The centre wall is around VS 4c

The Overhanging Left Wall

Permanent Waves

(6b). The right-hand bolt line

T Thompson, 5th June 1994

Caress of Steel

(6c). The central bolt line (very fingery for a couple of moves)

T Thompson, 19th May 1996

Grace Under Pressure E2

(5c). The overhanging crack system

R Southall, T Thompson, 31st July 1993

Power Windows

(6a) The left-hand bolt line.

T Thompson, R Southall, 25th September 1993

DUDDON
Stonestar Crag (p196)

Ppi Cuppa VD 12m
The rib to the left of Patgonian Penguin gives a pleasant well-protected pitch.
Make a hard start by gaining the front face of the 3 metre pinnacle from the left and climb to its top. Stride across the gap, and finish more easily up the arete.
Jude Osborne, Steve Giles, 2003 Climbed the arete via the back of the pinnacle, start added by Stephen Reid, Chris King, 26th August 2004

Patagonian Penguin VS (?) 13m
Start immediately to the right of the 3 metre high pinnacle at the far left of the crag which is just to the left of First Arete.
(4c). Climb the blocky groove immediately to the right of the pinnacle. Continue up the steepening corner until a small bulge is reached at about 9 metres with a rightward-slanting crackline slightly higher up. Ignoring the crack, make a long stretch rightwards (crux) to a small flake which is used to gain the arete which makes up the top section of the sharp prow. Finish easily.
Jonathan Croxford, Jane Cooper, 29 September 2002.
Not sure of grade. Crux moved seemed about 4c and is just about protected by small wires.

First Arete is worth a star.

Dennis The Menace 23m E3
A powerful line up the overhanging wall just left of Stonestar Groove. Start at the base of that route.

(6a). Step out left and climb the mossy slab via a niche to the base of the overhanging wall. Climb the centre of the wall using a spike/pinch and Friend 1/2 slot, then trend up left to a good hand hold high on the left arete (good nut up right). Pull back right and continue up the overhanging wall past a dubious peg to the top.

J Daly, D Geere, 9th August 1998

Last Chance Saloon 23m MVS.

Starts beneath the right end of the square cut overhang of Double Entendre.

(4b). Climb up onto a fin of rock and continue up the crack above. A tricky move gives access to the right trending crack running parallel to and just left of the top crack of Venezuela, follow this, then finish up the wall above.

D Geere, J Daly, 25th October 1997

Venuzuala is worth a star. Also we climbed it slightly differently from the description as it would seem that the traverse can be done at two levels. The way we climbed it would be described: Climb the wall left of the groove of Columbia until forced back right to a block runner. Climb the groove above the block (the left-hand of twin grooves) to a good foot-hold. Traverse horizontally left with difficulty into a crack on the left and finish up this.

Riding The Stack 26m E2

A bold but escapable eliminate taking the blank slab between the upper cracks of Venezuela and Columbia. No holds or runners are to be used on any of the parallel routes. Start 2 metres right of Last Chance Saloon.

(5c/6a). Climb up to and over the middle of a knobbly bulge, where delicate moves lead up to the centre of the Venezuela traverse (wires). Make an awkward rockover onto the slab above, then sustained delicate climbing leads direct up this slab to the highest flake of Challenger (runners on right). Up the last few feet of Challenger to finish.

J Daly, D Geere, 25th October 1997

The Breech is worth two stars, and is probably E2 5b rather than 5c. It is a much easier and safer proposition than The Challenger (E2- and E2+ respectively?). It is hard to see how Riding the Stack differs much from the upper section of The Challenger.

Vinegar Store E4

(6a) A filler in route to right of The Breech. Follow Anchor Handling to the prize jug where the route goes left. Follow the bubbly wall up and rightwards to obvious sidepulls. Finish directly to a very bold and technical finish.

S Wood, 9th July 1996

To the right of Vinegar Store lie two prominent clean ribs high up the crag. The next three routes all share a common start below the right hand rib.

Daddy Pigs Out 26m MVS

Climbs the corner line between the main wall and the left hand rib of Planet Waves. Start as for Hungry Planet.

(4b/c). Easily up the blunt rib to a ledge at 7 metres. From its left hand end trend up and left to a shattered ledge, then climb the stepped corners above finishing direct.

D Geere, J Daly, 31st January 1998

Planet Waves 26m E1

Climbs the bold left hand rib; start as for Hungry Planet.

(5a) Easily up the blunt rib to the ledge at 7 metres. Traverse left round a rib to a corner which is followed up then left to beneath the steepening left hand rib. Climb a short awkward crack, step right, then pull back left to finish up the rib above.

D Geere, J Daly, 31st January 1998

Hungry Planet 26m HVS

A good climb up the right hand rib. Start beneath the rib, 5 metres right of The Breech.

(5a/b). Easily up the blunt rib to a ledge at 7 metres. The steep rib above is climbed on its right side by following a crack through the bulge to gain a niche above. Pull out right to gain the upper slab/wall, then move up and follow a right trending line of footholds to an interesting finish.

D Geere, 23rd November 1997, (Free - needs checking?  J Daly, D Geere, 31st January 1998)

Repeated and confirmed at HVS 5a. Quite bold in the upper section and some interesting climbing, but not really worth a star.

DUDDON
Common Wood Quarry (Low Wood) (203 947)

Drive up the Duddon valley for one mile past Ulpha P.O. to where the road inclines gently up to the brow of a hill with Low Wood House on the right. Wallowbarrow Crag is visible from here. From this point follow a diagonal track that zig-zags up through the wood, pass through one wooden gate then over a stile/gate, the quarry lies just above this final spoil heap. (12 minutes walk). The quarry was actually formed by the collapse of a huge underground chamber, and as such caution should be practised in and around the quarry due to the presence of a number of deep clefts and tottering blocks etc. Special care should be taken with a gaping hole beneath the right side of the main wall which drops about 15 metres into a watery "black abyss". There are two walls offering climbing, the main south facing wall offers steep climbs up to 20 metres in height. 50 metres down to its right is a shorter west facing slab offering V grooves and cracks. Some of the bolt routes offer additional good natural gear, so take a mini-rack. The Main Wall belays are a large block, 3 stakes and a bolt (all about 7 metres back). So as not to antagonise the local farmer the exposed parts of the steel belay stakes have been kept short (hence difficult to locate when the bracken is up), please cover them with rocks when leaving the crag. Routes described from left to right

The Main Wall

The first 2 routes are on a short steep wall 15 metres left of the obvious slab of Hound Dog. Twin stake belays either side of a grass mound. Access the Main Wall from its top left end.

Publish And Be Damned 12m E1/2 (2 bolts)

(5b). Step onto a ledge and make a couple of long reaches up to gain a short black sandwiched slab, up this breaking out right on dubious flakes to finish as for The Provocateur.

J Daly, D Geere, 23rd May 1998

The Provocateur 12m E3 (2 bolts)

(6b). Make a hard step off the ground, sustained climbing then leads diagonally up right to beneath a flakey overhang. Surmount this to gain a flake and short easy rib to finish.

J Daly, D Geere, 9th May 1998

Hound Dog 9m VS (2 bolts)

(5a). Climb the obvious slab at the left end of the Main Wall pulling out onto its right arete to finish Stake belay.

J Daly, D Geere, 15th February 1998

Round the corner to the right is an impressive overhanging wall with a black corner groove to its right. The next superb route starts "down in the depths" beneath the bottom left corner of the overhanging wall. It has also been climbed via a direct start.

Meltdown 18m E4 (5 staples)

(6a). Pull onto the overhanging wall and climb steeply past 2 bolts, then use a thin diagonal crack on the left to gain the central ledge. Above the ledge a continuation crack and small overlap provide sustained climbing to the top. Stake belay.

NB:- bridging on boulders reduces grade to E2 !

J Daly (1 rest), D Geere, 16th May 1998

J Daly (free), 23rd May 1998

Cold Fusion 18m E4

A diagonal route across Meltdown wall.

(6a). Clip "Boob Tubes" first bolt, then climb the curving weakness up left to join Meltdown at its 2nd bolt. Gain a standing position on the ledge above, then traverse left onto Hound Dog slab and finish up its right edge.

J Daly, 31st May 1998

Boob Tube 17m E4 (5 staples)

An excellent climb up the black corner groove. Delicate, strenuous and always precarious.

(6b). Pull onto a glacis in the base of the groove, then precariously climb the corner groove in its entirety.

J Daly, D Geere, 16th May 1998

Fall From Grace 17m E3 (4 staples)

A fine climb starting 2 metres right of Boob Tube.

(5c). Step across the void and climb up rightwards following a line of razor sharp fins all the way to a steep finish onto a ledge 2 metres below the top.

J Daly, D Geere, JJ Geere, 10th April 1998

The Tormentor 16m E3 (3 staples)

Start 4 metres right of Fall from Grace.

(5c/6a). Pull up rightwards onto a small glacis then make a steep awkward sequence up to gain a ledge beneath a V-groove. Up the V-groove past an overlap to finish.
J Daly, D Geere, 16th May 1998

In the centre of the Main Wall is an open blackish corner leading up to a rectangular roof at 14 metres.

Black Mamba 19m E1/2 (4 bolts)

A good climb starting just right of the open corner.

(5b). Climb up left to a block, then follow the corner/wall above to the roof. Pull round the right side of the roof to gain a right facing hanging corner/crack and pump up this to the top. J Daly, D Geere, 9th March 1998

To the right is a prominent loose arete with a corner/pod to its right. The next route starts at the base of the pod. There is a bolt belay (well back) for the next three routes.

Wild Garlic 17m HVS/E1 (2 bolts)

(5a/b). Climb the pod/corner and continuation flakey rampline above. Near the top pull steeply out left to finish up the left side of a hanging flake.

J Daly, D Geere, 23rd May 1998

Just right is a chest high wobbly block.

Fly By Wire 17m E1 (3 bolts)

(5b). Pull onto the wobbly block and use layaway flakes to steeply climb up to where the angle eases at the 2nd bolt. Move up and step right to a ledge, then delicately climb the rolling slabs above to a teasing stretch to the finishing V-nick.

J Daly, D Geere, 28th March 1998

Hell's Mouth 17m E2 (2 bolts)

Start beneath a short finger jamming/friend crack just right of Fly by Wire.

(5c). Step onto a tall rock spike and climb awkwardly up right past the bolt to gain a short hanging groove. A dynamic move up the groove leads to a ledge on the right (bolt), continue up to a roof which is climbed via a short wide crack.

J Daly, D Geere, 13th April 1998

The Slab

Situated 50 metres down and right of the Main Wall. The obvious central feature of this buttress is the deep V-groove taken by Brilliant Disguise. Some 5 metres left of this is the V-groove of Dead Head.

Dead Head 14m Hard Severe

Make a tricky move to gain the V-groove, then jam up it to a roof formed by a hanging flake. Step right and surmount the flake via a crack to finish.

D Geere, JJ Geere, J Daly, 10th April 1998

Licking The Wounds 15m MVS

(4b). Start 3 metres left of Brilliant Disguise and climb the shattered crackline to the top.

D Geere, J Daly, 9th March 1998

Dead Calm 16m E1 (1 staple)

Takes the slabby pillar between Licking the Wounds and Brilliant Disguise.

(5c/6a). Pull up to gain a V-groove in the rib and climb it to a small overhang (bolt). Surmount the overhang and use its right edge to smear delicately up the slabby pillar to better finishing holds.

D Geere, J Daly, JJ Geere, 10th April 1998

Brilliant Disguise 16m E2 (natural gear)

A good route starting at the base of the prominent V-groove.

(5c). Climb the groove to a roof at 11 metres, then swing out left to gain a good foothold at the base of a hanging V-groove above. Teeter precariously up this to the top.

D Geere, J Daly, 8th March 1998

Just right is a slab with 2 prominent crack lines and a flake leaning against its base. The same 2 bolts provide protection for both routes.

Dick Tatoes 14m HVS

(5a). Up the front of the flake then climb the left hand crack up the slab in its entirety.

J Daly, D Geere, 8th March 1998

The Toulouse Sausage 14m VS/HVS

(4c). Pull onto the flake and layback up the wider right hand crack to a finish over blocks at the top. J Daly, D Geere, 9th March 1998

DUDDON
Wallowbarrow Crag (p201)

The farm has a new tenant. He is happy for climbers to park as before and is intending to open up a bunkhouse within two years.

West Buttress

Peter 30m VS

Start 2 metres right of The Leaf.

(4c). Follow the right-slanting groove line to the rib just above the undercut. Climb the rib

directly until joining up with The Leaf which is followed to the top.

Recorded by Tony 'Faz' Faraday, Bryony White, Tom Walkington, with a first ascent date of 28^th August 1999, but noted by the same team as "mentioned in the 1993 Duddon Guide as 'the short undercut rib immediately right of The Leaf providing interesting moves at VS (4c)'. Deserves a proper description."

Christine 30m VS

Takes a crack line left of Western Wall. Start as for Western Wall.

(4c). From the detached-looking block step right then climb straight up to a crackline which is followed to a small ledge. Continue up a few metres, then up rightwards on rock and heather to a corner crack just left of Western Wall. Climb up the corner crack and continue up a vague crackline to the top.

Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, Tony 'Faz' Faraday, 28^th August 1999

Western Traverse 50m HVS A fine eliminate style main pitch is the highlight of this climb. Start just left of the easy initial rib of Malediction Direct. 1 35m (5a). Scramble up steep heather for 20 metres to the foot of the buttress, some 5 metres under the hanging groove of Malediction Direct (wire). Traverse 2 metres left on heather and climb onto a large perilously poised block. Steep moves over the bulge above and up the rib/groove (Micro-Friends) lead to a good resting point and junction with Western Wall. Make a few moves directly up the wall (as for Western Wall) to a good Friend slot and wires, and then traverse horizontally left on excellent fingerholds, passing just under a shallow scoop, to gain a good foothold on the rib on the left. Follow the rib more easily to a good stance. 2 15m (4b). Climb the wall just right of the stance to heather, then gain and follow the rib above (just right of the final groove of the Leaf. Either belay directly, or run the rope out and sit down in a hollow in lieu of anchors! SJH Reid, J Campbell (AL), 11th June 2003 NB! The large perilously poised block at the start of pitch 1 has now joined its fellows on the scree! This will probably make the start a bit harder, if not impossible.

Malediction Direct - Alternative Start
The following eliminate makes a good alternative start to all the routes which share the first pitch of Malediction Direct. Start as for Malediction Direct.
(4b). Scramble up grass to the left of the broken rib of Malediction Direct for 10m to a smooth slab on the left side of the rib. Climb the slab to two stacked blocks and finish directly up the slim groove above.
SJH Reid, C King, 7th November 2003
Definitely done before - but worth recording.

The following two routes may share some common ground.

Contradiction 30m HVS
An eliminate starting left of Malediction at a recess with an overhang split by a crack. Either scramble up to the base of the recess, or do the first pitch of Malediction and traverse left.
(5a) Climb up first on the left of the recess, then on the right. Pull over directly on to the steep buttress and continue directly to the top, deviating neither left nor right.
Bob Bennett, Maggie White, 2nd May 1998

Serendipity 49m VS

Well protected.

1 24m Climb the rib of Malediction Direct.

2 25m (4c). Climb directly up for approximately 3m to the right side of the

pillar, then traverse left onto the front of the pillar and climb this

direct, Belay on the left as for Malediction Direct.

Paul C Bennett, Roger Whittle, 30th August 1998

Each Peach is fairly easy VS (4c just) not HVS (5a) as in the guide - worth a star though (SR).

The Skyline Rib is hard for the grade and worth a star.

East Buttress

Nameless/Grey Wall - Alternative Finish
40m (4a). From the stance at the foot of Pitch 3 of Nameless, traverse diagonally leftwards to a large poised block on the arete and surmount this to a slab which is climbed rightwards rto an arete. Climb the arete on its left side and the easier rib above to a small roof. Pull directly over this and go up leftwards to a stance.
SJH Reid, C King, 7th November 2003
Probably done before.

Marilyn Pitch 4 talks of a large diagonal break, but it is actually a large ramp.

Good Friends E2
(5a). Climb the wall left of Digitation (left of the corner of Vegitation) direct. From the corner step left onto the face and climb to a break/small overlap (shallow Friend), then direct to a big ledge. Finish up another route.
Dave Douglas, Jon Kerr, Mark Saddler, 3rd July 1999
Note - The route was not cleaned before been climbed (big mistake!). Will be cleaned soon. Nice climbing when clean!

The following route was omitted from the guide - the name gives a clue to it's quality!

Vegetation 50m VS

Start in the corner left of Digitation.

1 40m (4a) Climb the corner to the overlap, pull out left and climb leftwards, passing to the right of a bulge, then climb over a split perched block on the left edge. Follow the mossy slab direct to Oak Tree Terrace.

2 10m (4c) 2m left of the holly is a steep crack. Climb this then pull up right to a good ledge. Climb the steep mossy corner above, finishing right, at the top of Digitation.

W E Pattison, S Yearsly, J Williams, 11th June 1978

Oak Tree Slab 30m VS
(4c). The normally disgustingly slimy, wet and unattractive wall immediately left of Digitation is climbed direct to the big oak tree. A couple of neat moves at about 6 metres constitute the crux. Protection is adequate, the rock solid, and it is totally independent of Digitation. It would clean up nicely with traffic but is probably only doable in a drought.
Rick Gordon, G Dearlove, 19th April 2003
Could be the same as Vegetation 1978?

Toad In The Wall 25m E2
(5c). From the oak tree on Oak Tree Slab/Digitation, drop down about 7 metres to a heavily moss-covered boulder. There is a hole (about Friend 2 size ) at face height in the wall. Levitate with difficulty to a black jug at about 4 metres, pull left on small holds into a vague green groove, and ascend to a junction with Logan Stone Route, and a rest. Continue up to bulging rock and surmount the overhang/bulge by a breach on the left (Friend 3 or 3.5). Pull up and right to finish on flatties. All a bit friable, pumpy and most entertaining!!!
Rick Gordon, Gordon Hutchinson, 25th May 2003

Agitation (MVS in the guide) as one climber said "Nothing much Mild about that!". Probably deserves VS 4c, 4c with bold climbing on both pitches.

The following routes are on a short impressively overhanging right-angled wall at the very top right hand end of the main crag. The best approach is up the path between the East Buttress and the Far East Buttress; the wall is on the left at the top of the path. Good pumpy challenges on compact rock. Routes described from left to right.

Action Man 8m E3

(5c). Climb the central corner crack to gain the ramp above. Up this rightwards or finish direct.

(Good gear, good holds, but can you get on the ramp?)

J Daly (unseconded), 13th September 1999

Flashpoint 8m E3

(6a). Climbs the impressive overhanging layback crack just left of the central corner of Action Man.

J Daly, D Geere, 24th January 1998

The next route starts 5 metres right of Action Man where a 2.5 metre high triangular spike lies compacted against the face. A fine pitch for the connoisseur of impending rock.

Space Cowboy 10m E4

(6a). Climb the spike and awkwardly gain the diagonal crackline above (peg and small rocks), hand traverse it rightwards to a jug on the arete, then finish directly above.

J.Daly (second went into orbit), 29^th April 2000

NB:- A route Hidden Razor was claimed in this vicinity, but the description and length bear no resemblance to the routes on this wall. As both Flashpoint and Space Cowboy required some essential cleaning to reveal crucial holds and protection prior to their ascents, neither route could have been climbed before.

Hidden Razor 13m E4

(6a). At the top of the gully is a short overhanging outcrop. Start in obvious first wide crack, then come across diagonal flakes to make long move on the top of ramp. Finish direct.

Tony Simpson, Andy Chapman, 27th July 1997

Far East Buttress

Paradise - Venables Variation: Climb the steep crack direct to a heathery finish (VS 4c/5a).
Paul C Bennett (solo), 29th July 2000

Roger Wilkinson notes: Paradise (VS 4c): overgraded. At most, MVS 4b, I wouldn’t quibble at HS, and certainly nowhere near the middle of the VS graded list. Harder than Shark’s Fin Scoop? You must be joking. It is nowhere near as hard as Digitation or Agitation. (The latter is solid VS, by the way, and not MVS). Gear is a bit spaced on Paradise I suppose, so MVS is probably right. Another comment: Paradise overgraded at VS 4c: an easy HS 4a is more like it. Good climb though.

Parallel: showed no signs of ever being climbed, which is sad as the top pitch (4c, not 4b) is a little gem, being steep but on positive holds and good gear. At least one star. Overall, mid-grade VS.

Shark’s Fin Scoop: this is a chop route! It is virtually a solo – there is one No 2 Friend placement at half height, behind a projecting tooth of doubtful rock. The crux is well above this and is at least 5a. I stepped into a groove around the arête to avoid it, while my second (who leads HVS competently) just managed the direct on the top rope. And what joker placed it at the bottom of the VS graded list? Heresy – would benefit from a couple of bolts! (forget I said that). Another comment: Shark's Fin Scoop: probably more like E1 (5a).

DUDDON
Low Crag (p213)

Main Buttress

Hangover Direct First Pitch 13m HVS *
This is a good natural line which climbs directly up to the tree belay at the top of the first pitch of Hangover.
(5b). Climb the steep wall (crux) to enter the open corner at 4 metres. Up the right wall of the corner to a shallow groove, then move round to the ledge on the right edge. Up a short corner and slab to the tree belay.
Tom Walkington, Eric Barnes, 8th May 2002

Leprechaun Super Direct 40m E1**
1 9m (4b). As for Leprechaun.
2 31m (5c). Climb the thin crackline (crux) in the steep short wall 2 metres right of the corner of pitch 2 of Leprechaun. Continue up the sloping ledge for 4 metres to a short overhanging corner (possible belay on a tree up to the right). Up the corner then up to the (right) traverse on the top pitch of Leprechaun. Climb straight up the wall, passing a large hidden flake, to reach the left traverse on Leprechaun. Continue straight up the wall in the area of a feint crackline (bold but not technically difficult) to the top.
Tom Walkington, Eric Barnes, 17th April 2002

Upper Tier

A better approach to the routes at the left end of Low Crag, Upper Tier is to follow the Main Crag path, cross the stream, then at the first bend follow a vague path rightwards beneath Sharks Fin Buttress to reach the top of the gangway splitting the two tiers of the Lower Crag. The Beatrix Potter routes are reached first.

Immediately above the main buttress about 25m left of Off Yer Rocker is a large dead tree at the foot of a blunt rib. The following routes are described with reference to the tree.

Peter Rabbit 17m S

Climb the rib directly behind the tree.

M Lynch, I Wall, 18^th April 1998

Jeremy Fisher 16m VD

The cleaned crackline 3 m right of the tree.

I Wall, M Lynch, 18^th April 1998

The next route starts at the same point as Jeremy Fisher (just right of the dead tree, 25m left of Off Yer Rocker).

Roger Rabbit 15m MVS

(4c/5a). Climb easily up rightwards to the right end of an overhang at 6 metres, a one move crux over this and a short slab above lead to the top.

J Daly, D Geere, 28^th December 1999

Tom Kitten 17m S
Takes the arete 13m right of the tree.

I Wall, M Lynch 18^th April 1998

Squirrel Nutkin 16m MVS
Start 2 m left of the tree. Climb the wall and the right facing square corner above.

M Lynch, I Wall,18^th April 1998

Jemima Puddleduck 16m VS

Start 7m left of the tree at a blunt rib on the right of a grassy gully. Climb the rib and the obvious steep groove above.

M Lynch, I Wall, 18^th April 1998

Crispy Duck 16m VS

Start beneath a slabby wall 6 metres left of Jemima Puddleduck.

(5a). Without using the right arete, climb the technical wall direct to a shallow depression and flake edge at 8 metres. Finish directly above this.

J Daly, D Geere 26^th February 2000

Fair Bird 13m VD/MS
Just left of Pigling Bland, climb a narrow slab with a small overlap about 2 metres up.
Paul C Bennett (solo), 6th May 2006

Pigling Bland 13m HS
Approximately 40m to the left of the tree is an obvious cleaned arete. Poorly protected

I Wall, M Lynch, 18^th April 1998

JD & DG have checked the M.Lynch/I.Wall routes and found most grades/lengths about right. ‘Jeremy Fisher’ and ‘Peter Rabbit’ are both pleasant pitches, but starting the arete of the latter direct felt more like 4c.

The next three routes start beneath a large right facing corner some 6 metres left along a ledge from the bottom of Venus Arete.

Footloose 16m HVS

(5a). After a delicate start the obvious leaning right-facing corner is climbed in its entirety. Easy slabs above lead to a large flake belay.

J Daly, D Geere, 15^th January 2000

Fancy Free 16m HVS

(5a). Climb half way up the corner of Footloose, then pull out left to a ledge and finish up the arete/wall above.

J Daly, 23^rd April 2000

The Drop Zone 18m E2

(5c). An excellent delicate route climbing the clean wall right of the corner of Footloose.

Start up Footloose then climb delicately out rightwards across a smooth slab to a triangular nose at its right end. The wall above the nose is then climbed to the top. Easy slabs above lead up left to a flake belay.

J Daly, D Geere, 15^th January 2000

The following routes have also been recorded on the Upper Tier. Howewever it seems likely that many of the above have been done before, mainly by I.Wall and M.Lynch (see above). The more obvious clashes are listed below:-
Andys Rib = Peter Rabbit.
Cracked Slab = Jeremy Fisher.
Overlap Slab = Roger Rabbit.
Erics Rib = Tom Kitten.
Corrie's Groove = Jemima Puddleduck.
Banana Rib/Groove? is probably 'Crispy Duck' with the easier crack/rib start (done before JD/DG 26/2/00)

The descriptions are: Upper Tier
A pleasant area of good rock at the col above the Main Buttress, 30 metres left of Off Yer Rocker. Some routes may have been climbed previousl