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Last Updated: 10/12/2007

DOW, DUDDON
& SLATE

Duddon - West to Cockley Beck
( pages 233 - 264)

 

Page numbers refer to the FRCC Guide:
Dow, Duddon & Slate (1994)

FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB

of the
English Lake District

A Plea for Photographs
Photos of crags in good light in summer are needed for the next edition of this guide. Please contact the FRCC Guidebook Photographs Editor if you think you have any such photos (in any format). Needless to say any good action photos would also be well received - for these we need to know: crag, route, grade, pitch, name of climber, name of photographer. You don't get paid I'm afraid, but you will get a free guidebook if we use any of your pictures!
DUDDON
Troutal Gorge
(p233)

Right-Hand Wall

Oops  9m  E1

(5b) Climbs a short ramp and wall 4 metres right of Willie. Unprotected.

D Geere, 17th May 1997

 

Waterfall Buttress

 

Summer Time Blues 15m E3  

Left of Phil's Chimney is a wall with a flake line in its centre. Start from a small ledge at the left side of the wall just above water level. 

(6a). Climb the few feet to a large sloping mossy ledge and move right to the centre of the wall.  Gain a horizontal crack in the wall and then the base of the flake which curves right and allows a groove at the top right of the wall to be reached to finish.

B Davison, Nick Green, 3rd July 1994

DUDDON
Lower Brandy Crag
(226 988)

A small compact crag, which has been revealed by the recent felling of the wood in front of it. On approach, at first glance, it looks like a quarried face, but it is in fact a clean solid face with rock as rough in texture as any gabbro.

The crag is on the hillside to the right of the path, 200m before Brandy Crag. From the car park at forest road entrance, walk up the forest road towards Brandy Crag and taking the bridleway opposite Birks Homestead, towards Harter Fell. After 100 metres, take the left junction, and after a further 250 metres thrash across the tree fellings to the crag.

Lower Brandy Crag (click diagram for a bigger picture)

The crag is 10 to 12 metres high and has a distinctive deep V-groove/ chimney on its right-hand side - the Groove. The routes are described from right to left.

The Slab on the Right S
Start right of The Rib in a steep corner. 
Pull up and over strenuously onto the slab and trend up right to a crack move up and left and follow slabs bulges and overlaps leftwards to the main belay block.
Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 28th May 2007

16) The Rib HVS
(5a). Climb the crack and rib to the finish just right of Right Wall. Continue easily above.
Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 31st October 2004

15) Right Wall E1
(5b). Start in the centre and climb up and left to a hard move right to a slab finish up the bulge on the right. Continue easily above. - Ted and Ken, 18 July 2004
Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 18th July 2004

14) The Groove 12m HVS
(5a). The obvious deep clean groove is climbed direct.
Bryan McGowan, Glenn Wilks, 20th June 2004

13) Left Rib E2
(5b/c). Follow the arete direct to finish at a layback flake.
Ken Forsythe, Ted Rogers, 18th July 2004

12) Duddon Challenge E4
(6a). An eliminate line with a bold finish.
Rick Graham, Peter Graham, 31st October 2004

11) Solstice 12m E3
Start 2 metres to the left of the groove in the centre of the main buttress below an obvious sickle groove.
(5c). Climb a slim groove to the sickle groove directly. Make a move left and finish directly. Small wires.
Peter Strong, Bryan McGowan, Glenn Wilks, 21st June 2004
Grade confirmed by Ted Rogers.

10) Summer 12m E2
Start 2 metres to the left of the Groove.
(5c). Climb direct to finish just right of the prow. Small wires required.
Peter Strong, Glenn Wilks, Bryan McGowan, 21st June 2004
Thought to be E1 5b by Ted Rogers.

9) Stumpy and his Friends 12m E2
(5b) Starting 5 metres left of the Groove, a broken groove with a noticeable V-slot at the top is climbed direct, to the left of the prow above.
Bryan McGowan, Glenn Wilks, 20th June 2004
Thought to be HVS/E1 5b by Ted Rogers.

8) Slim Groove E3
(6a). Climbed using holds on the right rib (small wires and Friend). Swing left at top to finish.
Ken Forsythe, Ted Rogers, 18th July 2004

7) Snake HVS
(5a). Climb diagonally leftwards following the obvious line.
Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 31st October 2004

6) Don't do Football 11m E15b
Towards the left end of the crag is a left to right diagonal ramp. Start below the middle of the ramp.
(5b). Climb direct to the ramp and follow it to the overlap, then straight through this to finish up the top crack.
Glenn Wilks, Bryan McGowan, 20th June 2004
Thought to be HVS 5a by Ted Rogers.

5) Brandy Snap E1/HVS
(5a). Climb just right of rib in a direct line to a bulge and ledge. Then straight over to top slab.
Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 18th July 2004

4) Napoleon HVS
(5a). Climb rib direct to left end of ledge then move left and up slab to finish.
Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 18th July 2004

3) Three Barrels VS
(4b). Straight up to crack climbed on right.
Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 31st October 2004

2) Cognac S
Straight up to a grass ledge
Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 31st October 2004

1) Courvoisier VD
Climbs the last piece of decent rock, to finish at grass ledge.
Ted Rogers (solo), 31st October 2004

Upper Crag

17) Leaning Tower E1
(5b). Climb the left hand side of the upper wall with some steep pulls up a leaning wall.
Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, Frank Booth, 31st October 2004

18) Brandy Sour E1
(5b). Climb a wall into a slim groove which is quite delicate and not without interest.
Ken Forsythe, Ted Rogers, 18th July 2004

All the upper pitches can be combined in any combination as long pitches, or split with a belay on the halfway ledge.

DUDDON
Kepple Crags
(219 989)    SW Facing  Alt 370m

A series of buttresses slanting up to the left a couple of minutes walk from the forestry track.

All routes are described from left to right.

 

Left Hand Buttress

 

At the extreme left end of the Left Hand Buttress is a short clean slab.

 

Foot Servant    8m        VS

(5a). Straight up the middle of the slab on small holds.

Mike Lynch, Dave Kay, Paul Reinsch, 3rd July 1999

 

Just to the right of the large grass ramp/gully is a short wall cut by an easy angled rock ramp and two obvious cracks.

 

Ramp & Wall   20m      S

Up the easy ramp to the large ledge and then directly up the cleaned wall.

Mike Lynch, Dave Kay, 23rd June 1999

 

Left-Hand Crack           20m      VS
(4c). Climb the steep crack to the ledge, pull up steeply into the continuation crack above and follow this to the top.

Mike Lynch, Dave Kay, 23rd June 1999

 

Between the Lines       20m      MVS

Half way between Left-Hand Crack and Right-Hand Crack is a narrow pedestal at the base of a steep wall.
(4b). Climb on to the pedestal and pull steeply on to the ledge above. From the ledge another steep pull into the deep crack line brings easier ground. Exit on the left of the deep crack.

Dave Kay, Mike Lynch, 23rd June 1999

Clear Streak 20m  S                                                    

An obvious naturally clean line up a slab.

Rick Graham, 31st May 1998

 

Crack and Slab 25m VS

(5a). Start left of a pinnacle and climb the crack. Step right over a mossy

streak to finish up clean slabs.

Rick Graham, Ted Rogers, 4th June 1998

 

On the right is a steep bay starting halfway up the crag. Full descriptions have yet to be obtained.

 

Bailiff Left Hand 12m E2/3

(5c).                             

Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 24th May 1998

 

Bailiff 12m E2

(5c)

Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 24th May 1998

 

Angler’s Crack 10m VS

(5a)

Bill Birkett, Rick Graham, 24th May 1998

 

Poacher’s Wall 10m E3

(6a).

Rick Graham, Bill Birkett, 24th May 1998

 

Poacher’s Arete 10m HS

(4b).

Rick Graham, 24th May 1998

 

Fly Corner 10m S        

Ted Rogers, 24th May 1998

 

Across the grassy gully there is an unclimbed crack, possibly severe in standard, then....

 

Right Hand Crack 20m VS

(5a).

Rick Graham, 21st June 1998

 

Just to the right is,

 

Ted’s Wall E1

(5b).

Ted Rogers, Rick Graham, 4th June 1998

 

The quartzy vein is,

 

Quartz Movement HVS

(5b).

Rick Graham, Ted Rogers, 4th June 1998

 

The next five routes are packed together by a prominent overhanging crack (Tommy's Crack).

 

Cornice Wall E1

(5b) The wall just left of Tommy's Crack.

Rick Graham, Ted Rogers, 21st June 1998

 

Tommy's Crack E1

(5b). The prominent crack leads steeply to the large grassy ledge.

(5a). Climb the slabby walls behind, finishing out to the left.

Bill Birkett, Rick Graham, 24th May 1998

 

Scoopy Doo E1

(5b). Start just right of Tommy’s Crack and climb direct, but with a

precarious deviation right then left around the scoop.

Rick Graham, Ted Rogers, 21st June 1998

 

Ted’s Crack E2

(5c). A direct route up the crackline a couple of metres further right.          

Ted Rogers, Rick Graham, 21st June 1998

 

Chapman’s End VS     

The easier crackline a couple of metres further right again.

(4c). The crack to a ledge.

(4b?). To the top.

Pitch 1: Ted Rogers, Rick Graham, 21st June 1998

Pitch 2: Pete and Cherie Chapman, Summer 1998

 

About 25m to the right of Tommy's Crack is the most continuous stretch of rock.

 

Slab and Rib 40m HVS

(5a).     

Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, Summer 1998

 

Grotty Slab 40m           VS

(4c)

Ted Rogers, Rick Graham, Summer 1998

 

Up to the right a short wall gives,

 

Ken's Crack 10m HVS

(5b)

Rick Graham, Ted Rogers, Summer 1998

 

Ted’s Slab 10m VD

Ted Rogers, Summer 1998

 

50m down to the right, in the trees, are,

 

Bulimia 15m E4

(6a). A diagonal line on the wall, climbing rightwards.

Ted Rogers, Rick Graham, 31st May 1998

 

Hidden Edge 15m E2/3

(5c). The arete.

Rick Graham, Ted Rogers, 4th June 1998

 

Groovy Ken 15m E1

(5b). The grooveline right of the arete.

Ken Forsythe, Bill Birkett, 31st May 1998

   

Right Hand Buttress

The steep buttress in the trees to the right of the main crag.

 

Ffid 15m D

Follow the ramp line on the left-hand side of the buttress to the top.

Paul Reinsch, Dave Kay, Mike Lynch, 3rd July 1999

DUDDON
Brandy Crag
(225 989) Alt 350m       SE Facing

Rick Graham notes that The Brandy Crag described by Dave Kay is actually located 200m further west than the crag named on the OS map at 225 989.

 

10 minutes walk up the hillside from a good parking place on the forest road (2.5 Km from Birks Bridge car park). A pleasant slabby crag with two steeper sections separated by an extensive area of easy angled slabs.

Upper Wall
These routes are on the same west/south-west facing wall described by Rick Graham. As pointed out by Rick, the Dave Kay routes are actually on a different buttress some 200 metres west of here. From Birks Bridge car park follow the left-hand forestry road to The Birks Junction, then take the Harter Fell footpath on the right. On reaching the forest, take a path up leftwards (south-west) along the forest edge for 400m to where some fallen trees block the path. Now follow a break on the right to a clearing where a hidden path in the trees on the right leads in 50m to Brandy Crag's lower tree-bound buttress. Skirt round the left side of the crag and up 100m to find this wall in an open gully at the top of the tree line. Routes are described from left to right starting with a short blocky pinnacle just left of the open corner of  Way Up.

One for the Coccyx 15m VD
About 30m across and up left from the bottom left of Brandy Crag is a narrow piece of rock.
Start at the toe of the easy angled slab and climb this direct to where it steepens then continue up the left rounded arête to the top.
Paul C Bennett (solo), 19th June 2007

Photodiagram shows One for the Coccyx (VD)

The Teaser    8m   VS/HVS 

(5a). Climb the left wall of the pinnacle (close to the arete), and the off-width crack above.  

J Daly (solo), 6th December 1998

 

The Stretcher    10m   MVS 

(4b). The right side of the pinnacle is climbed using the obvious off-width crack and its left wall, swing up left to finish.

J Daly (solo), 6th December 1998

The next three routes all start at the same point, the left end of the huge roof.

 

Way Up 11m  VS (4c) -The obvious open corner climbed by R.Graham 98.

 

Firkin Fruitcake    15m HVS/E1
(5a). A good pitch. Enter the corner of Way Up, then traverse rightwards along the lip of the roof to a spike (Friend). Reach up and follow steep flake holds diagonally rightwards to gain the mossy ledge above. Easy rock to finish.
J Daly (unseconded),  25th April 1999

 

Outcast    16m   VS  

Friends useful.

(4c). The rightward diagonal break beneath the roof is followed in its entirety to finish at the top of the arete of  Prowler.

J Daly  (unseconded),  25th April 1999

 

The Bat    16m   HVS

Start 3 metres right of  Way Up.

(5a). Delicately climb the centre of the slab to the diagonal break, follow this to the right end of the roof, up a short corner, then back left to a mossy ledge and easier ground.

J Daly  (unseconded),  25th April 1999

 

The toe of the left hand buttress has an easy angled glacis abutting its base. Just left of this glacis is a jumble of boulders with an obvious hanging groove directly above. Routes are described from left to right.

 

19:46 33m E2
Fifteen metres left of the toe of the buttress is a rowan by a brown wall. Start just right of the rowan.
1 15m (5a). Climb the wall boldly (no gear) to an obvious ledge at 5m. Swing out right and up to finish. Walk to the back of the ledge to belay.
2 18m (5b). Start below a small V ledge in the centre of the wall. Climb up to the ledge and straight over the bulge to easier ground.
Ed Luke, John L Holden, 10th June 2007

 

Next Generation 27m HVS

About 7m left of the hanging groove is a shallow corner with a fine crack just to its left.

1.17m (5a). Starting up its slightly less obvious lower section climb the crack directly past a sloping ledge to belay well back on the terrace.

2. 10m (4b). Pleasantly up the cracked wall and easy slabs.

James Kay, Dave Kay 26th May 1997

 

Dwarves' Crawl 50m MVS
Start behind the jumble of boulders at the left end of a rightward-sloping gangway.
(4b). Climb the gangway for 10 metres to a steepening and move delicately up to a good ledge. Traverse right across a mossy scoop. Continue up the right hand side of the slabs to its top. Step up to more slabs and follow these easily to belay below the large ledge.
John L Holden, Ed Luke, 10th June 2007

 

Family Affair 30m VS **

Start behind the jumble of boulders at the left end of a rightward-sloping gangway, as for Dwarves' Crawl.

(4c). Climb the gangway rightwards over a small step then move steeply back left (small wires) to enter the bottom of the 'V' groove direct. Easily up the groove to the continuation groove on the right of a large detached pinnacle. Up this groove and step off the top of the pinnacle to finish up easy slabs.

James Kay, Dave Kay 26th May 1997
Worth ** according to John L Holden
and Ed Luke.

 

Rain Stopped Play 30m El

Start from the grass ledge immediately right of the glacis at a shallow recess with a steep crack on its right.

(5b). Climb the crack to the grass ledge. Move up the corner for a couple of metres and then climb the cracked wall on the left and finish easily up the rib.

James Kay, Dave Kay, Mike Lynch, 14th June 1997

 

Anniversary Wall   E3

Takes the crackline right of Rain Stopped Play starting above the rock step.

(6a). Climb the steep, well protected crack to a precarious pull out (make sure you place the highest possible runner to avoid a potential deck out). Easier climbing leads to the top.

Ted Rogers, Rick Graham, 15th June 1999


Fathers Day MS

Start at the right end of the grass ledge just before it merges into the hillside at a short steep crack.

(4a). Climb the crack and then follow the fault line in the easy slabs slightly rightwards to where the rock steepens then climb the crack and obvious flake back left to a good ledge and belay.

Cokie van der Velde, Dave Kay, 15th June 1997

 

To the right of the grass rake in the centre of the crag the rock steepens again. The first route takes the first obvious fault line right of the rake.

 

ProdigaI Son  12m VS

Start at the pointed flake that leans against the wall.

(4c). Pull steeply onto the ledge using the pointed flake and then climb directly up the

groove on small holds to an abrupt finish.

Cokie van der Velde, Dave Kay, 15th June 1997

 

Parable 18m MS

Starts just right of Prodigal Son at a fine easy angled slab.

Up the slab rightwards, into the continuation groove and exit leftwards to a good

belay ledge.

Cokie van der Velde, Dave Kay, 15th June 1997

Legends 25m VS
A direct route up this part of the face; starts below and right of Parable at the lowest point of the sweep of easy angled slabs and just left of Epilogue.
(4c) Climb the slabs direct to a junction with the hanging slab of Parable. Either climb direct the short wall above to a narrow ledge, or more easily, step right and climb a short corner (good runners) and step left onto the ledge. Climb the next short wall direct to a shallow depression in the slabby wall above and follow this to the top.
Jim Loxham, Paul C Bennet, 1
0th June
2007

Photodiagram shows Legends (VS)

Epilogue 30m VD

Start at the extreme right end of the easy slabby section.

Climb the right hand edge of the slabs until they steepen. Then move slightly

leftwards and pull up the upper wall just left of the heather.

Mike Lynch, Dave Kay, 27th July 1997

 

Anecdote  30m VS

Just right of the easy slabby section is a steep crack.

(4c) Climb the crack (not as easy as it looks) and blunt rib above passing to the right of

the finishing ledges of Parable to belay on two small spikes at the top of the crag.

Mike Lynch, Dave Kay, 27th July 1997

 

Fable 20m VS

10m right of the easy slabby section is a fine corner.

(4c). Climb the corner and pull out left at the top then follow the rib more easily

rightwards to the top.

Mike Lynch, Dave Kay, Cokie van der Velde, James Kay, 7th June 1997

 

Aesop 20m MVS

2 m right of the corner is the smaller of two hanging slabs below two 'V' grooves.

(4b) Climb on to the small hanging slab, move right and then pull up the short wall into the left hand 'V' groove. Follow this to the top.

Mike Lynch, Dave Kay, Cokie van der Velde, James Kay, 7th June 1997

 

The Proverb 20m VS

5m right of the corner of Fable is the larger of two hanging slabs below the two 'V' grooves.

(4c). Climb on to the larger hanging slab and then climb the steep crack at the back into the right hand 'V' groove. Follow this to the top.

Mike Lynch, Dave Kay, Cokie van der Velde, James Kay, 7th June 1997

 

The Weathermen HS

Start at the same point as The Proverb.

(4b). Pull on to the larger hanging slab, follow it to it's right hand end then pull up the rib

into a groove. Follow this groove to broken ledges and the top.

Dave Kay, Cokie van der Velde 15th June 1997


Shipping News 25m E1
Start 4 metresright of Weatherman at the foot of a left-slanting rib which leans against the crag. Very nice climbing.
(5a). Climb the rib, or better bridge up the groove to a large jammed flake. Make bold moves up the wall to reach the diagonal crack (runners). Follow the crack its entirety to merge with the upper section of Weatherman, which is followed to the top.
Paul C Bennett, Jim Loxham , Martin Scrowston, 19th June 2007

 

2. Shipping News (E1)
3. Curving Crack (MVS)

 


Curving Crack 20m MVS
Start 12 metres right of Weatherman at a thin cleaned curving crack, which is 2 metres left of Grooved Arête. Well protected.
(4b). Climb the crack direct to the the parallel diagonal cracks. Take the lower crack rightwards into the corner. Up this onto a rib on the left to a junction with Weatherman, which is followed to the top.
Paul C Bennett, Jim Loxham, Martin Scrowston, 19th June 2007

 

 

 

 

 

Paul Bennett on the first ascent of Curving Crack (Jim Loxham)

 

Grooved Arete  VS
Start 15m right of The Weathermen.
(4a). Climb the grooved arete.
Ted Rogers, Rick Graham, (both solo), 15th June 1999

West Facing Section

 

The west facing section of the Brandy Crag is just out of sight of the above routes.

The routes are described from left to right. All are 15 to 20m high.

 

Way Up VS

(4c). A corner with off-width crack in its left wall.

Rick Graham, Ken Forsythe, Summer 1998

 

Prowler            E2

(5c). The arete in the centre.

Rick Graham, Ken Forsythe,  Summer 1998

 

Diamond Wall E2

(5c). Gain the niche from the left, move left and climb the wall direct to the top.

Rick Graham, Ted Rogers, Summer 1998

 

Sox E1

(5b). Gain the niche in centre of wall from the right and exit rightwards via the

jamming crack.

Ken Forsythe, Rick Graham, Summer 1998

 

Sucks VS

(4b). The corner to the right.

Ted Rogers, Rick Graham, Summer 1998

Thirty metres up and left from Brandy Crag is a small grey crag.

Wakefield 15m E1
Start at the foot of the easy-angled slab.
(5a). Climb the slab and steeper wall above: one runner at half height.
Ed Luke, John L Holden, 10th June 2007

DUDDON
Wallhead Crag
(212 000) alt 570m SW Facing
A small pleasantly situated crag on Harter Fell. It can be reached in 25 mins from the end of the forestry road. (2 miles from Birks bridge). (This crag could possibly belong in the Eskdale guide.) Follow the path to the water shed between Harter Fell and Crook Crag. Then follow the path up Harter Fell until the crag can be seen up to the left.

Early Doors 20m D
No description supplied.
I.Greenwood, M.Lynch (both solo), 7th June 2004

Lock In 14m MVS
The obvious cleaned line near the right-hand end of the crag.
M.Lynch, I.Greenwood, 7th June 2004

Last Orders 14m VS
A line 3 metres left of Lock In, starting up a short corner.
I.Greenwood, M.Lynch, 7th June 2004

DUDDON
Dropping Crag
(226 993)     Alt 400m           E Facing

A long steep crag revealed by extensive forest clearance, the obvious crag across valley from Little Blake Rigg, with an orange coloured base. 20 minutes walk up the hillside from Birks Farm. (1/2 km along a forest road from Birks Bridge car park). The best descent is on the left. The climbs are described from left to right. The original two routes of the crag (The Selfish Gene and The Blind Watchmaker) appeared in “Recent Developments 1995 - 1996” (p44) but were erroneously described as being on Mart Crag. Their descriptions are reprinted below for completeness. The diagram is the work of Ted Rogers.

 

Just round the corner at the extreme left hand end of the crag is a large block below a square groove.

 

Drop Kick 15m S

From the top of the block step right or to the wall and make a rising traverse right to

a ledge. Then straight up to a block belay.

Mike Lynch, Dave Kay, 24th May 1997

 

Birk Crack 20m HVS

(5a/b). Climb the crack at the left hand end of the crag.

Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 14th June 1997

 

Wobbly Wall 20m E3

(5c/6a). Gain a ledge with difficulty and follow a vague groove until a hidden finger hold on the right is used to gain a good jug on the left followed by a rounded finish.

Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 14th June 1997

 

The Selfish Gene 20m E2

Line at left hand side of crag.

(5c). Follow a line of slots leading diagonally rightwards to finish up a short hand jamming crack.

Steve Edmondson, Richard Ebbs, August Bank Holiday weekend 1996

 

Fingery Wall 20m E5

(6a/b). Climb the wall to the right of Selfish Gene direct.

Dave Birkett, Bill Birkett, 14th June 1997

 

Swinging Wall 20m E4

(6a). Start just left of Blind Watchmaker and climb the wall direct to good runners in a horizontal break. Traverse left to make a hard pull into the final crack.

Ted Rogers, Bill Birkett, 26th May 1997


The Blind Watchmaker 20m E3

The next obvious line of weakness, 7m to the right.

(5c). Pull up to a ledge, move leftwards, and follow a cracked weakness to finish by a Friend 3 slot. Quite substantial at the top.

Steve Edmondson, Richard Ebbs, August Bank Holiday weekend 1996

 

Ticking Groove 12m E3/5c

Climb the wall right of Blind Watchmaker into the groove above and climb groove direct to an easy wall above.
J Shepherd, T Rogers, K Forsythe, 6th June 2002

 

Gruesome Groove 25m E1

(5b). Start just right of The Blind Watchmaker and climb rightwards across the wall, up the corner, and swing left (good Friend) to gain the upper groove.

Ted Rogers, Bill Birkett, 26th May 1997

 

Drop of the Hat 20m VS

Starts from the bottom of the obvious crack/corner line in the centre of the crag.

(4c).Up the rib on the left of the corner to a good ledge. Then trend slightly left and up to

a good ledge and belay.

Mike Lynch, Dave Kay, 24th May 1997

 

Drop of the Hat Alternative Finish HVS

(5a) From the good ledge at half height continue straight up the shallow crack line with

poor protection to finish at the same point as Drop of the Hat.

Ted Rogers, Bill Birkett, 26th May 1997. (Also claimed by Dave Kay, 31st May 1997)