| Truss
Buttress
The Gelding 20m E3
Start
4 m left of Vasectomy in a grassy corner.
(6a)
Climb the overhanging wall to flat holds, move up left on sharp
incuts (wire), to reach a small spike. Pull right into a niche
below a overhang (peg). Move slightly left and pull around a bulge
on small holds to reach a good layaway (protection above). Step
left to a flake and climb back right to a crackline. Follow this
up and left, with excellent protection, but dirty rock. Step right
to a grass ledge and exit easily rightwards.
P.Carling,
solo 28.8.93.
A
Snip In Time 20m E3
(6a).
Climb The Gelding to beneath the overhang (peg). Exit rightwards
from the niche to reach a thin crack, awkward. Pull up to reach
a jug. Follow the crack above more easily.
P.Carling,
solo 28.8.93
Incision
27m E4
A good route that requires a bold
approach. Takes the wall between Vasectomy and Castration
Crack.
(6a). Climb the tricky wall (no runners) to gain a scoop. Move
up this to a good ledge and runner. Climb the steepening wall
leftwards (runner in Vasectomy). Pull back right and climb
the narrowing diagonal crack to a good jug over the bulge. Climb
the easy rib on the right to the top.
Phil Rigby, Mark Hetherington, 31st May 1999
Surgical
Cut 30m E3
Another good route which takes the
obvious diagonal crack across the left-hand side of Truss Butress.
Almost a girdle of this fine wall! Start four metres left of Vasectomy
at a grass shelf.
(6a). Pull into the niche (peg runner on the Gelding),
and follow the crack rightwards across Vasectomy. Make
a hard move into the top of Castration Crack and follow
this to the top.
Phil Rigby, Mark Hetherington, 31st May 1999
Slab
Start to Truss Buttress - more like HS than MS (RW).
Razorback - Alternative Start
The obvious groove left of the start provides a better introduction
at about the same grade (4b) - but unprotected.
N Thomas (solo), April 2003.
Razorback
(HVS 5a) is noted as being quite a good route, despite the "poor
line" comment in the current guide. Possibly overgraded -
VS 4c might be more appropriate. There is one awkward move entering
the final groove, but the climbing before and after is easy.
Mist
Arete 25m E1
Takes the arete just left of the corner
of Sam. Start below the mottled wall, 5 metres left of
the start of Sam.
(5b). Climb the wall to gain the easy slab. Continue up to the
left of the arete. Runners available above the large block (of
doubtful stability). Move up the wall (small RP) to gain the arete
(further RP) and follow the arete more easily to the top.
Ron Kenyon, Clive Rhodes, John Davis, 20th May 1999
Appliance
of Science 40m MVS
An intricate and exciting route. A bit mossy at present as it
was led on sight, but should quickly clean up. Rope drag can be
a problem - take lots of slings to use as extenders. Start as
for Hernia.
(4b). Climb the easy ramp as for Hernia, but from its left
end descend a corner and traverse left behind a tree to a slab.
Pull over a bulge onto an upper slab and climb boldly up this
and then traverse right into a corner where there is a huge flake
(Friend 3.5 or 4). Hand traverse the flake rightwards to below
a slim groove cutting through the bulge above. Climb the groove
to a ledge (possible belay in the corner on the left). From the
right end of the ledge, climb boldly up rightwards to gain a slab
which leads back leftwards to the top.
SJH Reid, C.King, 20th May 2004
The upper half of this route is as for Strider (E1), but it
probably makes a better MVS than it does an E1.
Slabby
Course 20m VD
Start 3 metres up and to the right of Scabby Horse, at
the foot of a flaky slab. Climb straight up to the apex of the
slab, avoiding heather patches in the lower part.
R. A. Smithson, D. Heard, 23rd March 2003
However from the guidebook writer "climbed
long ago: claimants include:- Misplaced Trussed 2000, Slab in
the face 1997".
The next two routes start 3 metres
right of the tree of Scabby Horse at a small heather-filled
groove. Note that one of these routes may be Slab in the Face,
1997.
Misplaced
Trussed VD
From the groove climb rightwards up a clean slab until just below
blocks on the left. Move slightly right to finish up easier slabs.
M Turner, A Blyth, 24th July 2000
Trussed
in Me VD
From the groove climb the slab rightwards
heading for a small overlap, which is in fact the bottom of a
semi-detached flake. From here move rightwards to finish up a
fine slab.
M Turner, A Blyth, 24th July 2000
Slab
in the Face
15m MS
Sparsely
protected.
Start
4 metres right of Scabby Horse and climb the slab direct.
D
Douglas, K Whittaker, N Thompson, 2nd August 1997
Practice
Wall
Late
Night Groove 17m VS
(4c)
About 5m to the right of Practice
Wall is a groove. Climb
this, moving right to a ledge near the top.
Some of the rock is still friable.
B
Davison, Penny Clay, 16th August 1992
Fang Buttress
The Stopper 40m
HVS
A filling in type route on the left of the crag. Rather scrappy
low down but improves with height. Start 3 metres left of the
Filling on the very left-hand side of the pillar on the
left of the buttress.
1 20m (4c). Step of a block on the left and follow a series of
jugs up the left side of the short wall to gain an easy-angle
grassy ramp. Follow this to a spike at the foot of the upper wall.
Climb a short groove on the left of the spike to gain a large
horizontal flake. Traverse this rightwards until you can stand
on it and then sidle rightwards round the arête to a belay
in the groove below the huge poised flake on Tamarist.
2 20m (5a). Step back along the flake a move to a short impending
groove. Make a long reach up rightwards for a spike (thin sling),
and pull out leftwards on to the buttress above. Keep moving up
leftwards and then scramble to the top.
SJH Reid, C.King (alt), 20th May 2004
Some of this may have been climbed before by Al Davis and Al
Hewison.
Tautalist E4
Climbs
the steep line out of the cave to the left of Tamarist.
(6a/b)
Bridge out of the back of the cave. Moving left to good undercuts.
Powerful moves lead up to a good fingerlock and large Rock. Another
move gives a large hold. Rockover right to finish up the ridge.
(in-situ Rock 7 + Krab lower off).
J.
Robertson, J. Beveridge. 7.8.94
The
following route has been recorded but it may take a similar line
to Tautalist.
Boddy
Count 27m E4
Start
at a squat pinnacle left of the Tamarist cave.
(6a).
Step off the pinnacle and climb up to a peg. Pull right onto some
sloping ledges under the overhanging crack. Climb this (strenuous)
to a good ledge. From the ledge follow the thin crack to the top
via a niche and small roof which is overcome on the left.
Mark
Charlton, Alison Cater, Alan Moist, 24th May 1997
Loaded
Dice 25m E2/3
Varied
climbing with a technical start and a bold finish. Start just
left of Sostenuto, below a short groove capped by a small
roof with a diagonal groove above.
(5c)
Move up the groove to below the roof then move left along a horizontal
crack (Friend 1½ plus opposing nuts in crack). Use undercuts,
above the left of the crack, to ascend a slight groove to gain
a good hold. Move up right and ascend slanting ledges to the ledge
on the girdle traverse (peg runner). Gain the flake crack above
and move up (Friend 3½) to flat holds on a slanting broken crack.
Worryingly move up (good nut placement up to the left on the arete),
then move back right, in an exposed position to gain the last
few moves of Sostenuto, at its finishing crack.
Chris
King, Ron Kenyon 16.9.95
|
Relentless Rage 30m E7 ****!
(6a). Follow Sostenuto to ledges below an impressive
steep groove. Fill the ragged horizontal crack with runners
(last before the top), step right and climb the groove directly
to a small overhang. Pull straight through this, onto a
large ledge to belay. Superb and quite bold.
Duncan Booth, Jaime Robertson, Mark Greenbank, Jimmy Beveridge,
27th September 2003
Photo
right: Duncan Booth high above the last runners on the first
ascent of Relentless Rage (E7 6a). (Jimmy Beveridge).
Click photo for a second image.
|
|
|
Left Edge - The Doghouse Variation MVS **
A straightening out (and
improvement) of this route, avoiding all the moss and heather-ridden
cracks at mid-height. A bit harder (and less well protected) than
the original.
(4b). Climb the groove and walk along the ledge to a niche. Climb
the steep crack to a narrow ledge. Step off the triangular block
and climb the wall slightly leftwards on a series of good ledges,
then back slightly right to climb boldly to the foot of the right-facing
V-groove. Finish up the groove.
Roger Wilkinson, Bert Peace, 17th August 2003
It is just possible that this
is what is implied by the existing description in the guide, but
it is certainly not what most people do.
Keep
out of the Kennel
E1
Blinkers job - but some good climbing
- for those not wanting to commit on Bloodletting.
(5b). Start as for Bloodletting - but keep to the left
of the slab, placing gear in Kennel Wall but not using
its crack. Ascend the shield to the left of the flake on Bloodletting/Bloodhound
- to join and follow Bloodletting. At the top, climb the
wall between the two cracks.
Ron Kenyon, Clive Rhodes, 20th May 1999
The
Dalesman E4
(6b). From the big spike on Dog Leg Crack go left direct
through roof, via a hard move to good holds and a peg. From here
climb to a peg on One Step Beyond, then straight up to
finish.
Richie Patterson, Andy Scott, 13th June 1998
One
Step Right 12m E1
Climbs
the clean slab right of Dogleg Crack.
(5a).
Start at the right hand end of the overhang and move onto the
slab and left to its centre.
A long reach allows a good hand hold to be gained. Easier
climbing leads to the top.
B
Davison, Penny Clay, 16th August 1992
The
Dalesman E4
A
3m variation on One Step Beyond.
(6b).
As for One Step Beyond, follow Dog Leg Crack, but
where the crack turns horizontally right, move left over the overhang
and up to the low peg on One Step Beyond.
Richie
Patterson, Andy Scott, 12th June 1998.
Nymph
Buttress
The
following routes lie on a short outcrop to the right of The
Nymph, and take a wall to the left of a stone wall.
Time
Stops for No-One
16m E1
Start
five metres left of the stone wall at a large block near the base
of the buttress.
(5b)
Move up left to a sloping ledge and a comer and up to a precarious
block. Continue up right to a good hold. A short comer leads to
the top.
R
Kenyon (unseconded), 5th September 1992.
Crack
of the Under-Table World 16m
HVS
(5a)
Start 7m left of the stone wall and climb the crack in the left
wall of a slanting vegetated corner.
R
Kenyon, M Golden July 1992.
Showtime 16m HVS
In
the centre of the wall, just left of the crack of UTW,
is an obvious nose of rock. On the left of the nose is a crack
line.
(5a)
Attain the crack and follow it to a ledge. Move left to finish.
R
Kenyon, A Heron 5th September 1992.
Golden
Shot 16m HVS
(5b)
The prominent crack just left of Showtime gives a short
struggle.
R
Kenyon, M Golden July 1992.
Bouldering
Some
excellent bouldering has been discovered under the North-East
and Truss Buttresses for those of you climbing at V6 and
above - including , it is claimed, one of the best boulder problems
in the Lake District. For a free topo visit www.lakesbloc.co.uk.
Please note that climbing on the "Peregine Boulder"
is banned from 1st March to 30th June due to the bird restriction
on North-East Buttress.
 |
|
Photo
Left: Matt de Vaal (photo, Trevor Suddaby) on Classic
Crack (V2), and Above: Trevor Suddaby (photo, Greg Chapman)
on J.Mascis (V7 and "a contender for the best
problem of its grade in the entire Lake District"),
on the newly discovered boulders at Gowther Crag.
|
|
