 |
EASTERN CRAGS
Patterdale
(pages 174 - 248)
Page numbers refer to the FRCC Guide:
Buttermere & Eastern Crags (1992) |
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FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB
of the
English Lake District |
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A Plea for Photographs |
Photos of crags in good light in summer are needed for the next edition of this guide. Please contact the FRCC Guidebook Photographs Editor if you think you have any such photos (in any format). Needless to say any good action photos would also be well received - for these we need to know: crag, route, grade, pitch, name of climber, name of photographer. You don't get paid I'm afraid, but you will get a free guidebook if we use any of your pictures! |
CARROCK
FELL
Slape Crag (p172) |
Bloodaxe:
Jim Arnold reports "excellent little route on perfect rock.
Bottom end E2. 2 Stars."
* Scrubs
Up Nicely 25m E2
(5b). Climb
the slab between Bloodaxe and Slape Crags Direct.
Jim Arnold, Kate Arnold, Al Davis, 23rd August 2005 |
GRISEDALE
Eagle Crag (p174) |
|
Cold
Frontier 37m VS* 5a 4c
A good, strenuous route. Begin between Grisedale Corner
and Taliban, below a smooth wall capped by an overlap.
1 12m (5a). Climb up via an awkward mantel onto a ledge to gain
the smooth wall. Climb straight up the wall and over the left
side of the overlap to a small ledge and flake belay.
2 25m (4c). Climb the front face of a slender pillar, then up
to a ledge below the final headwall.Climb this left of the finish
of Taliban.
Graham Uney (solo), 23rd September 2004
Taliban
37m VS
An interesting little climb. Start 2 metres right of Grisedale
Corner.
1 12m (5a). Climb a shallow corner to beneath a small overhang.
Move right and up to enter a short V-groove, climb the wall on
its right to a ledge and spike belay.
2 25m. Climb directly over two short steps to beneath the final
headwall. Ascend it directly on fingery holds.
C Read, G L Swainbank (alt), P Fleming, 22nd September 2001
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Raptor
25m HVS
A superb pitch which climbs a complex
looking wall at a reasonable standard. Sustained and delicate
with good protection. At the top end of its grade. Start
from the broad ledge to the right of Original Route,
below the left end of a large chamfered bulge about 4m up.
(5a). Climb straight up the left side of the bulge into
a shallow groove. Cross the wall leftwards past a rock scar
to a higher resting place. Trend right and follow the shallow
corner direct, cross a ramp, and continue up to the Pasture.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, 25th July 1999
90
Years Young 26m HVS
Start as for Raptor.
(5a). Climb to the ledge and move up left to below a corner
crack. Follow this to gain a small ledge on Raptor,
below a rock nose. More left below the nose and climb the
wall above and short wall beyond to the Pasture.
Ron Kenyon, Dave Jones, 5th May 2002
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Photo:
Raptor (Ron Kenyon)
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Grand
Day Out 37m VS
Superb, well protected climbing, with
good positions. High in the grade. Start as for Sobrenada.
1 15m. Climb the slab.
2 22m (4c). Gain a higher grass ledge, then step right and climb
a steep rib/groove (to the left of the cave of Sobrenada)
to pull leftwards onto the slab. Trend left beneath a small shelf
and gain this direct or slightly to its left. Pull out left and
follow a steep shallow groove direct to the Pasture.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, Frank Fitzgerald, 24th June 1999
Thoroughbred
40m E1
Follows the most obvious natural line
on the lower tier. Exellent climbing with good protection except
for the first 5m of the second pitch. Start as for Heavy Horses.
1 15m. Climb the slab to the belay on Sobrenada.
2 25m (5b). Step back down the slab a couple of metres until just
right of the obvious V-groove. Climb directly up to gain a layaway
flake which is followed boldly to a good resting place. Follow
the diagonal fault to its right-hand end and then pull up to a
small platform (junction with A Grand Day Out). Climb the
awkward tapering groove on the right to pull out leftwards at
the top and follow easier rock to the Pasture.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, 25th July 1999
(The start follows Heavy Horses. A logical continuation would
be Nexus (E1, 5b) giving 65m of E1 climbing on good rock)
Nexus
25m E1
Excellent climbing throughout, well
protected and with fine positions. Start from the Pasture just
to the right of the piled blocks (same point as Sobrenada
pitch 3).
(5b). Climb directly up the black-streaked slab into the triangular
niche. Step right then climb shallow cracks with interest, to
join Sobrenada. Step right again (above the chimney of
Sobrenada), and climb the fine corner directly to the top.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, 8th July 1999
Note: The final corner above the chimney on Sobrenada is
HVS (5a) and would make an excellent direct finish to that climb.
A note from Dave Musgrove has been
received as follows:
Horse Power 65m E2
1. 35m 5c. Follow Heavy Horses to
the spike on Pericles. With a runner on this step back
right and climb the steep, delicate slab boldly up to the pasture.
2. 25m 5c. As description in current guide.
Dave Musgrove (Snr.), David Musgrove (Jnr.), Graham Arthur, 28th
May 1989
The climb was led on-sight and before I realised that Heavy Horses
was included in the addenda to the 1987 guide. My later reading
of the description of Heavy Horses, however, gave me the impression
that that pitch joined and finished as for Pericles. The last
section of my first pitch was certainly harder and bolder than
E1 5b and, unlike the lower section, showed no evidence of previous
cleaning. I thought the whole route was good and probably worth
2 stars. I'll leave you and your local team to confirm or reject
that assertion.
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GRISEDALE
Tarn Crag (p183) |
| Historical
note from Mike Cocker: First ascent of Dollywagon Gully Wilberforce,
N. Tribe and John Robinson 22nd July 1896. Second ascent G. Abraham
and A. Abraham 20th October 1898. |
GRISEDALE
Tarn Outcrops (GR 352 124) |
| Standing 100 metres above the Grisedale Tarn outflow at GR 352 124 are two steep little outcrops. The right-hand outcrop has a cave at its base, whilst the left-hand has a central arete capped by prow-like overhangs.
Left-Hand Outcrop
Shelf Life 10m HS 2006
Deceptive climbing up an easy-looking wall.
Start just right of the central arete.
(4b). Climb up and rightwards, until a move up a steep wall gains a recessed ledge. Pull over to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 16th September 2006
Griselda 10m HS 2006
Takes the slabby V-groove at the right end of the outcrop. Start 4 metres right of Shelf Life on a higher ledge.
(4b). Gain the V-groove awkwardly by shuffling along a ledge from the right. After one move up the V-groove, climb its slabby right wall to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 16th September 2006
Note:- There is more potential here for fierce, little problem-style routes; but the rock is not the cleanest. The bonus, is that it gets the full sun for most of the day!
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GRISEDALE
St Sunday Crag (p184) |
| North Buttress
This is the most northerly section of crag, and is the first substantial piece of rock encountered on the normal Elm How approach. It lies just to the right of an un-named shallow scree gully and 300 metres left of
East Chockstone Gully. It is graced by a bulging arete on the left, a grassy chimney groove in the centre and on its right, a corner groove topped by a pointed rock.
Introit 7m MVS 2006
Takes the cleanish, water-washed wall at the left end of the buttress. Start 2 metres right of the shallow scree gully.
(4b). Climb the wall direct, finishing with a heathery pull leftwards.
BJ Clarke (solo), 22nd September 2006
Descent :- a grassy ramp on the left leads into the scree gully.
Montmartre 18m VS 2006
The rib just left of the grassy chimney groove gives a pleasant pitch. Start at its foot.
(4c). Climb the rib, mainly on its right side to its top. Step left and follow an easier rib to finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 22nd September 2006
Noye's Fludd 15m VS 2006
Takes the intricate, but rather dirty grooves in the buttress to the right of the grassy chimney groove.
Start 4 metres to the right of the chimney groove, below a V-groove with a mossy streak at its back.
(4c). Gain the V-groove and follow its right rib to a bulge. Step awkwardly left and move up past a pinnacle to reach the upper groove. Up this for a move, then step left to follow a slab to easier ground on the left.
BJ Clarke (solo), 22nd September 2006
Seraphim 15m VS 2006
A good route up the left wall of the corner groove at the right side of the buttress.
Start 3 metres up and right of Noye's Fludd.
(5a). After an awkward start, climb the wall up and leftwards to gain a groove. Up this, then follow a handrail rightwards onto the rib; finish up this.
BJ Clarke (solo), 22nd September 2006
Santiago 35m S 2006
Start 3 metres left of Slab Route (which is incidentally 20 metres left of East Chockstone Gully , not 30), at the left-hand crack in the slab.
Gain the crack delicately from the right and follow it to a ledge. Trend leftwards up slabby walls to finish up a blunt rib.
Descent:- Down grassy ledges to the right (looking-out), eventually reaching a small gully, go down this.
BJ Clarke (solo), 7th September 2006
Sine Nomine 14m VS 2006
The prominent rib 30 metres left of Slab Route, identified by a perched flake at half-height and a short impending striated wall at its base. Start below the striated wall.
(4b). Climb the wall to a ledge. Continue up the arete, past the perched flake and a shallow groove, to finally pull over the slight nose to finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 7th September 2006
Blade Buttress 14m HS 2006
25 metres left of the start of Pinnacle Ridge lies a small. pear-shaped buttress riven by cracks. Start at the toe of the buttress.
(4b). Climb the awkward crack over a small bulge to reach a block. Step left and follow the Blade boldly to gain the top of the buttress. Scramble up for 20 metres, then descend the gully on the right.
BJ Clarke (solo), 7th September 2006
NOTE:- This is a very obvious line and has probably been done before. Maybe it's part of the mysterious Rib and Slab, mentioned only on p158 in the "old" Winter Guidebook! Sensor Slab 7m HVS 2006
The slab immediately left of Slab Route gives a fine delicate pitch.
Start one metre left of Slab Route.
(5b). Climb the slab just right of the faint vein on tiny chickenheads, and reach the first break (and a nice surprise!). Move up to finish by utilizing the undercut flakes. Either continue up the wall and groove above to reach the top, as for Slab Route; or descend down to the right (the "official" Broad Buttress scramble).
BJ Clarke (solo) 22nd September 2006
La Haye Sainte 35m VS 2006
Good climbing up the slab, rib and buttress just right of Slab Route. Start 2 metres right of that route at a block.
(4c). Step off the block and climb the slab somewhat gingerly. Continue up the rib to a ledge below the final impressive buttress. Ascend a series of flakes on the right side of the buttress to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 7th September 2006
Upper North Crack 4m S 2006
For those people who have found Pinnacle Ridge too tame, more excitement is available 25 metres left!
(4b). Climb the obvious crack cleaving the south face of a pinnacle.
The arete just left, utilizing the Crack for the right hand is a cagey (5a).
6 metres further left, the left arete of an inset slab is (4c).
In all cases BEWARE the BAD landings!
all BJ Clarke (solo), 7th September 2006
Pillar Front: the easiest-looking line on the little tower was found to be loose and dirty and VS (4c), rather than MS (BC).
Pillar Direct is loose and Severe; remove the star (BC).
One hundred and twenty five metres right of West Chockstone Gully, and at a higher level, is a large open gully (Far West Gully?). It is flanked on its right by a rounded buttress guarded on its left side by a rectangular overhang. This area enjoys rather more sunshine than the rest of the crag!
25 metres left of the base of Far West Gully lies an obviously fine, but short, sun-catching wall; seamed by grooves and capped by overhangs.
Matins Slab 9m HS 2006
Start 3 metres left of Mitre Grooves.
(4a). Climb the slab past the small scoop and finish up the left side of the rib above.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th September 2006
Mitre Grooves 10m VS 2006
Start 2 metres left of the central, recessed groove at a V-groove with a bulge at 3 metres.
(4b). Start up the V-groove, then cross the slab leftwards to pull up into the upper V-groove, finish up this.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th September 2006
Mirum Wall 9m VS 2006
Start one metre right of the central, recessed groove.
(4c). Climb a subsidiary block, then the cracked wall on the right to reach perched blocks beneath the overhang. Slither up the notch on the left to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th September 2006
Mercy 18m HVS 2006
Twenty metres up and right of the base of the Far West Gully, and right of the rounded buttress a slabby rib, with a leaning crack on its left side, juts boldly forward. Start at the large flake forming the base of the rib.
(5a). Climb the left side of the front wall of the flake to a ledge. Step left and move up the scrappy corner for 3 metres (this corner eventually forms the leaning crack). Make fingery moves up and right to reach a hold on the rib. Using the next series of flake handholds carefully, pull onto the rib proper; from where an easier slab leads to a block belay at the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th September 2006
The Unknown Ridge 150m D 2006
70 metres right of Far West Gully is found the final ridge of the crag, before the fellside begins in earnest.
Start at a cairn and follow the line of least resistance. The finest feature is a tower-like buttress at one-third height; climbed on its left flank at first, then by its central crack system. A small buttress above also gives a stiff pull up a crack. Higher, easier ground leads to the summit slopes.
"Re-discovered" BJ Clarke (solo), 11th September 2006
20 metres above the tower-like buttress on The Unknown Ridge, the small buttress supporting the "stiff pull up a crack" forms a series of aretes and grooves on its right flank. 15 metres right of the line of the Ridge is a right-facing corner formed by a prow of rock. The climb takes the arete immediately right of the corner.
Sant Sulpice 12m MVS 2006
(4b). Follow the right side of the arete to easier ground and large spike belays.
BJ Clarke (solo), 30th September 2006
25 metres futher right, a pair of striking pinnacles (The Aiguillettes) adorn the fellside.
The Forgotten Ridge 50m VD 2006
Start immediately right of The Aiguillettes at an obvious slabby arete.
1 9m. Climb the pleasant slabby arete.
2 13m. Starting on the right flank of the next tier, climb the loose grooves; a pitch best forgotten!
3 28m. Scramble up, taking in the little walls and buttresses, to reach the summit slopes. Either plod up the slopes, or descend the gully on the right (looking-in), with care!
"Re-discovered" BJ Clarke (solo), 30th September 2006
Note:- The Aiguillettes themselves, will offer the adventurous boulderer a few scary, highball moments (bouncy castle essential!). As an appetizer, the south-west facet (facing Grisedale Tarn), of the upper pinnacle; climbed by its left arete and pockets is (4b). This problem starts at the "col" and is best reached by following pitch 1 of The Forgotten Ridge for 3 metres and spanning left.
|
PATTERDALE
Thornhow Crag (p188) |
| Thornhow
Wall and the Groove on the "clean" slab on
the left are now very dirty. The rest of the crag is pristine and
worthy of a short visit when "group-free". Kneewrecker
Wall is good, but in view of its relatively serious finish move
grade up from MS to S. (BC) |
DEEPDALE
The Sugar Lump (NY
359 123) |
| A remarkable 15 metres high block buttress (the Sugar Lump), stands on the left (E) side of the ridge leading up to Cofa Pike from Deepdale Hause. Plainly visible, it is easily reached by striking off left from the path after it completes the first slabby scrambling section, 5 minutes from the Hause.
It is characterized by beetling overhangs on its right; but the showpiece is a sheer wall of rock staring boldly across to Hutaple on its left side.
Sugar Lump Original 16m VS 2007
This route represents the first "attempt" on the sheer wall, and starts 2 metres right of its left-bounding corner.
(4b). Make a steep pull up a flake to reach a ledge. Follow the bilberry corner until the wall falls back to slab angle. Step up right and continue diagonally rightwards up the slab, keeping below the "moustache" and utilizing a series of small flake edges.
BJ Clarke (solo), 29th April 2007
Note:- Adventurers wishing to try the wall would be well advised to arm themselves with a few Skyhooks. |
DEEPDALE
Hutaple Crag (p192) |
| The Ampitheatre: The crux of the second pitch is very thin 4c/5a and quite a way from the last gear (I'm talking about the traverse across the steep slab). So possibly the climb should be HVS 4c. I must confess that after trying this section several times I had to give up and climb back down. However, I had climbed Hangover on Dove Crag the night before and Beowulf on Scrubby the next day without any problems so I did have some idea of the standard in the Eastern Fells. (Ken Daykin) |
DEEPDALE
Scrubby Crag (p199) |
| Beowulf definately worth 3 stars. (Ken Daykin) |
DEEPDALE
Hart Crag Left-Hand (p205) |
Wildebeest 17m MVS 2007
Twenty metres down and left of the re-built cairn at the foot of Zip , a 2 metre high pinnacle stands below slabs with a prominent stepped arete above.
(4b). Step off the pinnacle and climb the slabs to a ledge below the arete (not the undercut arete to the right!). Continue up the right-hand side of the stepped arete using a nice series of moves. Step left on to a cracked block (loose), before finishing up the rib above.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th April 2007
The lower tier has been investigated; the rocks are shorter but cleaner!
Gazelle 15m VS 2007
Halfway along the lower tier, and opposite a cairn, an easy-looking groove snakes up a rounded buttress.
(4c). Gain the groove from the left, step up right to a sloping ledge and step back left into the groove. Follow its left rib and make a few awkward moves up the headwall to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th April 2007
Impala 14m VS 2007
Below the start of Spiral a slabby pinnacle, attended by a gendarme marks the end of the lower tier. A good, unusual route!
(4c). Gain the ridge of the gendarme from the right and follow it for 4 metres. Stride across to the rib of the pinnacle and follow it to the quartz gangway.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th April 2007
One hundred metres north of Hart Crag a stand-alone rocky knoll presents a fine-looking buttress to Link Cove.
Norwester 17m S 2007
Start 10 metres up and right of the lowest rocks on a grassy ramp at a tiny slab. Pleasant climbing on rough rock.
(4a). Climb the right-trending shallow groove and the knobbly wall above to a ledge. Finish up a series of grooves in the arete.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th April 2007
The 8 metre high wall on the right-hand side of the buttress is also worthwhile (Grate Wall VD, 2007). BJ BJ Clarke (solo), 11th April 2007 |
DEEPDALE
Erne Nest Crag Left-Hand (p207) |
| 200 metres left of, and at a higher level than Erne Nest Crag, is a grassy promontory below a broken slabby buttress. 100 metres further left is a line of slabby walls interspersed with blank, overhanging sections (GR 378 120).
Hearty Slab 11m VS 2007
8 metres up and left of Ahab's Slab is the final slab of the crag. This sustained climb takes a series of inocuous-looking shallow grooves up the left-hand side of this slab.
Start immediately right of the left edge of the slab at a thin crack.
(4c). Climb the crack, and meander up the shallow grooves to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 30th April 2007
Ahab's Slab 23m VS 2006
More quality slab climbing up the slab on the left, but steeper! Start 6 metres left of Moby Dick, below a twin-stemmed tree.
(4c). Climb the slab (easing as height is gained), keeping to the right of the twin-stemmed tree. Higher, trend right to finish as for Moby Dick.
BJ Clarke (solo), 26th September 2006
Moby Dick 23m S 2006
Exquisite padding up the slabby, whaleback buttress 30 metres left of Terpsichore.
Start just left of a slabby corner, and follow a broad rib, thin crack and a final arete to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 26th September 2006
The black water-streaked slabs just left of the centre of the crag have provided the following climbs. These are routes where low-angled clean and rough rock compensates for the almost complete lack of protection. Drought conditions required.
Terpsichore 25m MVS
Twelve metres left of the series of black water-washed slabs left of centre of the crag an attractive arete rises above the lower rocks.
(4b). Gain the arete, and follow it direct on a continuously surprising set of positive, but hidden holds. From the ledge at its end, step right and follow the pleasant slabby rib to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 26th September 2006
Descent :- easily to the left.
Mephisto 35m HVS 2007
Start 12 metres up and right of Terpsichore at a projecting block with a small holly, below a black bulge.
(4c). Climb the bulge then trend right up the bubbly wall to gain a ledge below the right side of a black wall guarding access to the main slab. Move up, and step left onto the dark slab, follow this trending slightly leftwards. Overcome another black wall and reach a large hidden pocket. Continue direct up the steeper slab to a ledge and finish up a rib and a short corner crack.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th April 2007
Pequod 35m VS 2007
Start as for Mephisto.
(4b). Climb over the bulge as for that climb, but continue direct up the fine bubbly wall to reach the ledge below the left side of the black wall. Pull directly on to the slab and follow its left side to another black wall. Pull up the black wall, a metre left of Mephisto, and continue direct to gain a ledge up and left and a small spike runner-phew! Finish up the blunt rib on the left.
BJ Clarke (solo), 11th April 2007
Eachan Trillvite 27m HVS 2007
A fine climb up the rib, crack and slab just to the right of the thin slanting crack set in the overhanging wall up and left of Flashdance. An obvious feature at the right-hand end of the crag. Start 7 metres left of Flashdance at a clean wall.
(5a). Climb the wall to a ledge, then the rib on the right to below twin cracks. Move up the left-hand crack with difficulty for 3 metres, then step left. Pull over the slight bulge using a pocket and tiptoe up the glorious slab to a ledge. Continue up a steeper slabby wall, then easier slabs lead to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 30th April 2007
Flashdance 16m VS 2006
Takes the razor-slashed thin crack in the right flank of the buttress at the right-hand end of the crag; giving a fine finish on amazing rock!
Start below and just right of a small silver birch tree at a free-standing finger of rock. A cracked overhanging wall 9 metres up and left is another landmark.
(5a). From the finger of rock, climb the slab and rib to a ledge below the headwall. Step left and follow the excellent thin crack and finish up the arete.
BJ Clarke (solo), 26th September 2006
Slaberitif 19m MVS 2007
Two nice, unserious pitches at the right end of the crag. Slightly marred by the large grass terrace, but the route probably gives the best introduction to the style of climbing! Start 8 metres right of Flashdance at a stand-alone rib.
1 9m (4a). Climb the rib, mainly on its right side, and cross the terrace to a slab.
2 10m (4c). Climb the slab, via the slanting crack and by utilizing the left rib to reach a spike. Finish up the blunt arete.
BJ Clarke (solo, 30th April 2007
|
DEEPDALE
Erne Nest Crag (p207) |
| Erne Nest Crag is a greeny, grim place! Erne Nest Crack is overgrown. Erne Nest Wall couldn't be located with any certainty.
The two harder routes Bad Penny and Prodigal Son are covered in dirt and lichen. A shame, as they look rather good! BC 2006. |
DEEPDALE
Mart Crag (p207) |
|
This
crag was grossly under developed until 1995(?) when Ian Weetman
and Dave Birkett added two excellent routes up the largest untouched
buttress. In 1997 Ted Rogers, Rick Graham, Bill Birkett
and Andy Jones made several visits and climbed (almost) all the
remaining lines. The rock
is excellent, has dried quickly even in the poor weather, and
most of the routes are so good the first ascentionists have climbed
them twice. The 1992 Fell and Rock guide is accurate apart from the comments
on poor protection being a
bit overstated.
A
good selection of Friends of all sizes to #3 is very useful.
The
sketch shows all the crag except for about twenty metres of scruffy
rock at both ends.
Chameleon 35m E3
(6a)
Climb easy right slanting cracks to a ledge. Possible belay. A
short shallow corner leads to a hidden jug on the blank wall above
(Friend 1). Climb this to a precarious exit onto the slab above.
Up slabs to the top.
Ted
Rogers, Rick Graham, 16th August 1997
Bat
Crack 35m E2
(5c)
Follow Chameleon to the ledge and a possible belay. The
overhanging crack/chimney on the right gives a well protected
jamming exercise.
Ted
Rogers, Ken Forsythe, Bill Birkett, 10th August 1997
1. Grotto Crack 25m E1
(5b).The
vague grassy rib leads
to a jam crack and the left-hand side of a hanging slab forming
the base of a cave. Gain the slab and cross it precariously to
gain jam cracks leading to the top.
Not to be missed despite its appearance.
Ted
Rogers, Rick Graham, 5th July 1997
2. Gremlin Groove 20m E2
(5b).
The corner. The initial
layback can be avoided by an easy slab on the left.
Ted
Rogers, Rick Graham, 10th June 1997
3. Polecat 30m VS
(4b).
The left arete of the LH main slab.
Rick
Graham, Ted Rogers, Bill Birkett, 1st June 1997
4. Badger Wall 20m E3
(5c).
Start up #2 but move right onto the wall after 2m.
Climb the centre of the wall over a small roof and rock
scar. Move right on easier ground then climb through
the bulge via a diagonal crack.
Ted
Rogers, Bill Birkett, Rick Graham, 1st June 1997
5.
The Widowmaker 30m
VS 1984 (see
FRCC Guide)
6. Ghetto Blaster 35m VS 1984
(see FRCC Guide)
7. Ride the Wild Turf 80m E2
(5b,
5b). Starts as for Polecat and takes the obvious diagonal
crack line across the crag in two pitches.
Climb over or pass under the turf just before the belay
after 40m.
Rick
Graham, Ted Rogers, 10th June 1997
8.
Chocolate Frog 30m E1 5a 30m
1984 (see FRCC Guide)
9. Parched Parakeet 30m E2 5a
1984 (see FRCC
Guide)
10. Rabbit Run 30m E1
(5b).
The well protected diagonal crack line. An excellent pitch.
Ted
Rogers, Rick Graham, 28th May 1997
Minuteman
20m E3
Start
on the large ledge at the top of Parched Parakeet, Rabbit
Run etc, at the left side of the arete.
(6a).
Climb the flared crack to the arete and good handholds around
the corner. Continue steeply up the right hand side of the arete.
Two Friend 2's are useful after the initial crack.
Rick
Graham, Ted Rogers, 23rd May 1998.
11. Slab and Groove 50m E2
1
(5b). Climb a ramp line rightwards for 8 metres then trend left
to an obvious blocky spike. Stand
on this and make a committing move rightwards before running it
out to the grass ledge up on the left.
2 (5b). Climb over a blocky ramp (more stable than it looks )
and up narrow grooves left of the larger blank one. Nearer the top mantelshelf left (Friend 2)
then trend rightwards to the top.
Ted
Rogers, Rick Graham, 10th June 1997
Diamond
Wall 45m E3/4
(6a)
Climb Slab and Groove for 10 metres, then climb a short
thin crack to the base of the steep upper wall. Move left up the
main ramp for a few metres. Climb onto a narrow ramp leading back
right to a good wire placement. Move left into the shallow scoop
and climb this boldly to a good hold (hidden RP 4 or 5). Make
a long reach to the traverse line of Ride the Wild Turf.
Move left and climb another shallow scoop to easier ground. Finish
at the same point as Slab and Groove.
Rick
Graham, Ted Rogers, 16th August 1997
12.
Route Twelve 40m E4
The
obvious shallow grooveline.
Start
between the two obvious trees at a short corner.
(5c).
Climb up and leftwards on occasional
rock and grass to below the groove.
Clean your boots! Climb up a couple of metres to a Friend
3 placement. Continue delicately up the groove. At the top of
the groove move right followed by easier climbing through
the bulges passing to the left of some hanging blocks.
Ian
Weetman, Dave Birkett, ca 1995
Direct
Finish
(5b).
The direct continuation of the groove. Still dirty but a lot easier
than the climbing below.
Rick
Graham, Ted Rogers, 16th August 1997
13. Route Thirteen 40m E4
(5c).
Follow #14 up the diagonal crack for a few metres before following
the vague crackline a couple of metres right of #12.
Finish easily up #12. Could be unlucky number 13 if you miss the
RP and small spike runner placements on route.
Ian
Weetman, Dave Birkett, ca 1995
(Either
13 or 14 were climbed by Weetman and Birkett but it is uncertain
which.)
14.
Route Fourteen E3
Same
start as #12 and #13.
(5c/6a).
Climb to the Friend 3 placement then follow the diagonal crack
rightwards to climb the slab a few metres left of the groove of
Jumblat ( #15). Finish by climbing directly up the top crack
of Jumblat, hard to start
for the short.
Rick
Graham, Ted Rogers, 8th June 1997
15.
Jumblat
30m E2 5b 5b 1984 (see
FRCC Guide)
16.
Jungle Genocide 30m
E2 5b 1984 (see
FRCC Guide)
The
first groove can be protected and the peg backed up.
17.
Route Seventeen 30m E3
(5c/6a)
The arete 2 metres right of Jungle
Genocide.
Bill
Birkett, Ted Rogers, Rick Graham, 1st June 1997
Mart Crag - "every nook and cranny sprouts moss and veg!" BC 2006 |
DEEPDALE
Cofa Pike Slabs (GR 359 120) |
| Though beloved by walkers and scramblers, the rocks here are usually too broken to offer worthwhile climbing. However, on the Pike's east flank, overlooking the upper reaches of Sleet Cove is a sweep of continuous slabs (GR 359 120).
Despite the presence of tussocky ledges, the rock in between is rough and clean, giving good but bold climbing.
Sofa on Cofa 34m VS 2007
Start at the left-hand side of the slabs below a small roofed recess at 3 metres; cairn. Fine sustained slab climbing.
1 19m (4c). Gain the recess and pull over its left side, before trending right to a ledge. Move up slightly leftwards to reach and climb the faint seam up the "blank" slab above and so reach a comfortable bilberry ledge with spike belays; the Sofa!
2 15m (4b). Pull out to the left and climb the pleasant slab to a ledge, then follow a left-trending ramp. The nice cracked slab above is optional but should not be missed. Descend to the right (looking-in).
BJ Clarke (solo), 16th April 2007
Yonder Slab 30m MVS 2007
Takes the right-hand side of the slabs.
Start 3 metres right of Sofa on Cofa.
1 18m (4b). Climb the blunt rib, keeping just left of the grassy fault, to reach the Sofa.
2 12m (4b). Step right up a short gangway and climb the slabby wall towards the prominent bulbous headwall. Avoid this on the left and reach the top. Descend as before.
BJ Clarke (solo), 16th April 2007
The next two pleasant routes are on probably one of the more attractive craglets on the north flank of Cofa Pike, facing St. Sunday Crag.
It lies 150 metres south-east of, and just below, the level of Deepdale Hause and is easily identified by its brown-coloured slab.
Sultan (12m, MS, 2007) takes the slabby arete with a step left near the top. Whilst a direct line up the steepening slab just right is
Sultana Slab (10m, S 4a, 2007).
NB: Sultan and Sultana Slab are not actually in Grizedale but overlook Sleet Cove (Deepdale).
Both : BJ Clarke (solo), 16th April 2007
It's Easily Done 25m MVS 2007
Just down and left of Sofa on Cofa is an undercut buttress marking the lowest point of the rocks. 40 metres left and up from here a grassy terrace (cairn) leads right to blocks below a slabby arete. A razor-slashed crack cleaving an overhanging wall high up is clearly visible and forms pitch 2. Start at the blocks.
1 15m (4a). Climb the right-hand side of the slabby arete pleasantly and its continuation to a ledge.
Scramble 10 metres right and up to gain a comfortable grassy ledge below the razor-slashed crack.
2 10m (4b). Overcome the steep wall to gain the crack; follow the crack using a specially-designed set of footholds on the left, until a final awkward move gains the finishing slab. Descend to the right (looking-in).
BJ Clarke (solo) 29th April 2007 |
DEEPDALE
Grey Crag (GR 363 126) |
Situated on the sunny south-east flank of St Sunday Crag, facing across to the brooding Hutaple Crag, this crag consists of a series of walls separated by mossy grassy sections. As a contrast a series of brown moss-flecked slabs adorn the crag's right-hand side.
The climbing is much steeper than it looks, whilst the initial impression of rough juggy rock doesn't live up to the promise - it's fissile and brittle. Nevertheless there could be some good wall climbs here.
Napoleon 25m VS 2007
Start at a high grass bay below the brown, moss-flecked slabs at the right end of the crag.
(4c). Climb the slabs direct for 10 metres, before being forced up and right into the sanctuary of a bilberry corner. Follow a shelf leftwards on to the headwall for 2 metres; pull up a steep wall and so reach easier ground. Descend well to the right (looking-in).
BJ Clarke (solo), 17th April 2007
Kesselrinne 20m VS 2007
Start at the extreme left end of the crag at a steep wall, one metre right of a grassy gully.
1 10m (4b). Climb the wall with unsuspected difficulty to reach a grass ledge with a large pinnacle to its right.
2 10m. Climb the crack on the right-hand side of the pinnacle to its top. Finish up the wall above.
BJ Clarke (solo), 17th April 2007 |
DOVEDALE
Gill Crag (p209) |
|
Younger
Days - Extension
A minor addition of 4 or 5 metres to the original
route - probably done before but worth noting. At the top of the
corner, move right onto a grooved arete directly above the corner.
This much improves the finish - pleasantly exposed on very rough
rock. Worth a star with this finish. Original route does not seem
as poorly protected as guide description suggests (although soloing).
Total now 38m and grade now Severe.
Will
Walker (solo), 13th July 2002
Table de Roc 24m MVS
Start 10 metres right of Main Slab Route, on top of the
perched rock table.
1 12m. Climb the wall to Bird Cage Walk.
2 12m Gain the juniper ledge on Pitch 1 of Right Ridge,
from the left. Step left immediately onto the rib and climb it,
and the horizontal section above leading to easier ground.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd September 2002
|
DOVEDALE
Black Crag (p211) |
| The
right-hand section of the crag is very overgrown, but tiny areas
of rock are visible poking through the fields of vegetation. The
three routes on the left-hand section are cleaner but not clean.
The term "dead tree" used in the description to these
routes should be changed to "dying juniper" thus avoiding
confusion with a dead tree some 30m lower and to the right. Bilberry
Rib is just about worth climbing but not worth a star. Hanging Chimney
appears to be very accurately described. Impromptu is rather better
and shows signs of recent activity, ie chalk! Reaching the start
is probably the crux as the bayis protected by climber-devouring
juniper. Best to approach up Bilberry Riband hurl oneself into the
heather above the juniper (BC). |
DOVEDALE
Dove Crag (p213) |
|
James
McHaffie comments that Flying Fissure Finish is worth ***.
|
Variation:
The FFF Link E5 ** (F7a+)
(6b) Start up Explosion until it steepens, step left
and reach down to clip the thread on Fetish for Fear.
Continue as for Fetish for Fear to finish up the
Flying Fissure Finish.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog, 16th August 2003
Fetish
For Fear 30m E8***
(6b) Start up the initial flake of Fast and Furious,
to its top. Move up and right, passing a loose block to
the base of a slim, left-leaning groove. Climb this (Friend
1 and 2) to an overlap. Reach over this to good holds. Make
committing moves leftwards to an obvious large flat hold
and in-situ thread on left. Move up and right on large spaced
holds to join the Flying Fissure Finish at its peg.
Continue up this to the top.
Chris Hope and Duncan Booth both led. Seconded by Alan Wilson
and Jimmy Beveridge. 6th July 2003
Repeated by Steve Crowe who comments "Great route
climbing directly into the Flying Fissure finish. Bold but
not desperate, possibly only E7 after I found and cleaned
an additional hold at the crux!" Onsighted by Chris
Hope and David Birkett.
Photo
Right: David Birkett on Fetish for Fear
(Photo: Steve Crowe)
|
|
|
 |
|
North
Buttress Superdirect 37 m E5 **** 1981/2003
(5c/6a). A direct line up North Buttress linking
the start of Fast and Furious to the finish of Bucket
City for the easiest direct line up the cliff. TakeFast
and Furious to the top of the groove and move left to
gain the prominent spike on Bucket City, which is
followed to the ledge system. Make a couple of moves up
the groove above before breaking out left via a line of
holds above the lip of an overlap. These lead (slightly
downwards) to an obvious slot (small cams) from which a
line of reasonable holds, breaks and ledges lead directly
up the wall, passing a peg runner just below the top.
Rick Graham, D Lyle, Bill Birkett 27th June 1981 - Climbed
as far as the ledge system then continued as North Buttress.
Steve Crowe, Karin Magog both lead. Seconded by Alan Wilson,
16th August 2003
May well have been done before.
Variation:
The Inside Out Link E5/6 *** (F7b)
(6b) Start up Fast and Furious following the rightwards
traverse (past the peg on FFF) to finish up Outside Edge.
Mega pump.
Steve Crowe, Alan Wilson (both led). Seconded by Karin Magog,
August 2003
|
|
The
Darkest Hour E7/8
The logical direct start to Dusk to Dawn.
(6c). Pull through super steep ground, right of Bucket
Dynasty/Dusk Till Dawn, to join Vlad, then finish
up Dusk.
David Birkett, 9th June 2005
Dusk Till Dawn 40m E7 6b***
An awesome route - outstanding. This route climbs the huge
leaning pillar on the North Buttress and is one of
the steepest lines in the Lakes. A double set of small cams
(at least) is required.
(6b). Start as for Bucket Dynasty to meet Vlad
at the Friend 3 (Bold). Reverse Vlad for a couple
of metres to good holds (Friend 0.5 or Wallnut 6). Make
moves up and right to gain the right side of the pillar.
A series of big moves on good holds following a leftwards-leaning
ramp leads to a huge shake-out hold below a ramp sporting
a good peg at it's top. Make hard moves up to and past the
peg (leftwards) to superb jugs on the left side of the pillar.
More huge moves upwards lead to small ledge. The tricky
groove above is climbed to a good ledge. Abseil descent
(gear in situ).
Alan Wilson, Chris Hope (both led),19th July 2003
"Oh my God, that is unbelievable " Chris Hope
topping out on the 'most out there trip in the Lakes'.
This route saves you the long walk home. When you ab off
and remove that last bit of gear, at the end of the swing,
you're over the road !!.
Variation
Right-Hand Start
Start via Vlad before finishing up the Dusk till
Dawn headwall - same grade but even pumpier.
Al Wilson, 2003
|
|
Photo
Above Left: Al Wilson on Inside Out
(Photo: Steve Crowe)
Photo Below: Al Wilson on the first ascent of
Dusk Till Dawn
(Photo: Steve Crowe)
|
Vlad the
Impailer repeated (after 13 years) by Alan Wilson and Steve
Crowe. Grade and stars confirmed. Vlad is now (24/6/05) clean
from bottom to top and now sports two new (replaced) pegs near
it's top.
Fear
of Failure 50m E7 (maybe E8)
A very "big"
route, freeing the old aided first pitch of Broken Arrow,
before taking a sweeping runout across the top wall.
(6c).
Climb the wall as for Vlad but pull up with difficulty
to good sidepulls (peg - from old aid section), make a hard move
via a sloping pinch and continue with exciting moves to reach
the ledge. Step up left to clip the first peg on the second pitch
of Beyond the Pail, then make a harrowing traverse up rightwards
to buckets on Bucket City and finish up this or the groove on
the left. Exciting!
James McHaffie, August 2002
Repeated (on sight!) by David Birkett, 2003 - grade confirmed
at E8 - possibly the first E8 onsight in the UK.
James
McHaffie comments that Pailface is worth ***.
Bucket
Dynasty repeated and thought the grade should be E7 6b (F7c).
Worth ***. Described as "hard climbing with a very long run
out above good gear. Continuously hard and interesting".
(SC, CH)
The Brasov
Incident 40m E6 6b (F7b+)
(6b). Follow Bucket Dynasty to the bulge but traverse right
beneath the bulge, passing two pegs, to join Fear and Fascination
at the spike below its crux. Move up and across as for Fear
and Fascination to a junction with Bucket City and
continue up until it is possible to step right onto Fast and
Furious below its crux. Move up to the good jug then continue
rightwards beneath the Flying Fissure Finish to finish
up the Outside Edge.
Steve Crowe and Karin Magog (both led, but Karin finished up the
Flying Fissure Finish), 9th August 2003
Graham Hoey writes: Extol - despite what people may have claimed, this is a superb route where all the holds used are clean. I would definitely give this E3 5c - it's the hardest Rock and Ice Route I've done. As I led Bucket City (E6 6b) later on, I don't think I was climbing too badly, but Extol felt old-fashioned HARD!
On a lone
boulder at foot of Dove Crag will be found the following problem.
Impailed 7m V7
Overhanging
arete climbed on right side. Classic high ball arete. Brilliant!
Phil Wake, 17th August 2005
See
www.lakesbouldering.co.uk
for pictures shortly.
|
PATTERDALE
Dubhow Crag (408 147) |
| This crag is situated on the SW flank of Stony Rigg (itself a north-west outlier of Angletarn Pikes) and overlooks Bridgend. The rocks in the main are broken and juniper infested, but high on the left is a worthwhile buttress, identified by a 3 metre high pinnacle at its base with a right-angled corner above and to the right.
It is reached in 30 minutes by following the Boredale Hause track for 300 metres, before striking directly up the fell and contouring rightwards above the broken area. Although a bit grubby at present, the buttress offers pleasant climbing in a nice situation with a classic Lakeland panorama. The rock is steeper than it looks, but adorned with incuts and spikes, uncanningly reminiscent of Castle Rock- before they all fell off of course.
Goldrill Thrill 11m S 2007
Start 2 metres left of the pinnacle below a small recess in the wall.
(4a). Climb the steep wall just left of the recess to a ledge. Continue up a shallow crack-line to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 29th May 2007
Ker-ching 13m HS 2007
Takes the obvious V-groove just left of Beckstones Buttress. Start one metre right of Goldrill Thrill at the left side of the pinnacle.
(4a). Move up the wall, utilizing the pinnacle; step right and climb the V-groove. Continue up the slab slightly leftwards to finish above and left of the small circular recess.
BJ Clarke (solo), 9th July 2007
Beckstones Buttress 14m MVS 2007
Good climbing, with a bold finish. Start at the pinnacle.
(4b). Climb the right arete of the pinnacle to its top. Step across, and move up to reach the right-angled corner; go up this to a ledge. Swing left and finish up the wall.
BJ Clarke (solo), 29th May 2007
Goldrill Grooves 14m HS 2007
Start 3 metres right of the pinnacle below a series of grooves.
(4a). Climb the grooves to a ledge below a steep wall. Gain the groove above containing a small holly from the right. Move up it, and finish up a scooped wall above and slightly right.
BJ Clarke (solo), 29th May 2007
Flossy 12m VS 2007
A climb with unsuspected difficulty and an exciting finish. Start 7 metres right of Goldrill Grooves on a grass terrace at a stance with a juniper belay, below an easy-angled mossy scoop.
(4b). Move up the scoop for one metre, then step left and climb the slab to a ledge. Move right and climb up to the base of an impending corner defining the right end of the headwall. Bridge up, until a few reckless moves lead up the clean, overhanging wall on the left to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 9th July 2007
The bonus route lies 30 metres to the right along a goat track, and comprises an attractive rib rising through the greenery.
Old Bones Rib 20m HS 2007
Start 3 metres up and left of the toe of the rib.
(4a). Move right on to the rib by utilizing the hollow flakes, and continue to large spikes below the rib proper. Climb the rib, keeping slightly to the left, to reach a ledge. Step right and climb the upper rib via the scoops.
BJ Clarke (solo), 29th May 2007 |
PATTERDALE
Coffee Slab
(??? ???) |
This small, but easily spotted brown-coloured slab lies below Dubhow Crag, a mere 45 metres above the Boredale Hause footpath, and 15 minutes from the road.
Apart from occasional brittle flakes and spikes, the underlying rock is excellent granite and should clean up nicely, although there is still a layer of loose stones at the top needing care.
Coffee Morning 7m D 2007
Takes the rib and slab at the extreme right end of the slab.
BJ Clarke (solo), 7th June 2007
The next two routes have a common start at a 2 metre high right-angled corner in the centre of the slab, 6 metres left of Coffee Morning, past some brittle grooves.
Nero 8m S 2007
(4b). Climb the right-angled corner and step up left to a large sloping ledge. Move back right and go up the slab to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 7th June 2007
Compresso Crack 11m HS 2007
(4b). From the large sloping ledge, step up left before following the diagonal crack rightwards across the slab.
BJ Clarke (solo), 7th June 2007
Mocha 12m MVS 2007
Start 3 metres left of Nero on a glacis.
(4b). Pull up the tiny corner, move up, then rightwards to gain
Compresso Crack. Climb this for 2 metres, then follow the left-slanting crack to a tricky finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 7th June 2007
Con Leche 11m HS 2007
Takes the white-flecked rib at the left end of the slab. Start as for
Mocha .
(4a). Step left and follow the rib trending leftwards, before finishing more directly to a distinctly unhealthy tree.
BJ Clarke (solo), 7th June 2007 |
THRESHTHWAITE COVE
Raven Crag (p227) |
|
Road
Rage 40m E6
An
excellent route on very good rock - hard moves in an exciting
position.
Start
as for Grand Prix as far as the left sloping ramp,. Arrange
good gear here. Step right onto the shield underneath a small
overlap. Move right to a good flake then make hard, committing
moves up the wall on poor holds to a flat hand ledge. Peg on left
and Chouinard 4 Stopper - first gear since Grand Prix!!
Continue directly up until the headwall is reached, left of the
finish of Top Gear. Step up and right onto a ledge (peg)
before finishing directly up the crack.
Nick
Wharton, Helen Davies, Paul Claney, Dominic Donnini, 27th June
1995
Second ascent by Duncan Booth, June 2005
Liquid
Wall E8
Takes the bulging wall between Liquid Engineering and High
Performance.
(6c). Start up Liquid Engineering and climb to the good
holds up and right of the peg. Place a Rock 2 and 1 up and right
of the peg. From the jugs undercut upwards to an obvious edge,
and snatch back left on small crimps and slopes to the left of
the obvious bulge. Continue more easily past a Friend 00.
Andy Mitchell (unseconded) , 31st July 2004
Led after several days. Grade reflects the fact that a fall
from the top crux could leave the leader on the ground.
|
ULLSWATER
Fall Crag (409142) Alt. 330m West Facing |
|
A
small crag 20m high found on the left of the beck which drains
Angle Tarn. Pleasant on a summer's evening. Limited parking on
side of track north of Hartsop (406138). Walk to end of track
(300m), through gate and on to the fell. Cross Angle Tarn Beck
and Fall Crag is visible as the most prominent bit of rock
300m away (10 mins walk) up hillside. 2 routes have been climbed
on the main face. Both routes start from a terrace above a small
crag.
Lost
Left Sock 17m S
Start
at the green corner on the left of the prominent slab. Climb the
corner direct, step left at the top and climb direct above to
easier ground.
Ian
Healey, Marc Day, 22.9.94
Broken
Jinx 17m VS
Start
2m right of Lost Left Sock. Climb the right hand edge of
the slab. Step left at the top of the slab and climb the steep
central groove directly above to easier ground and belay.
Ian
Healey, Nick Austin 22.9.94
Dobby's
Sock 15m E2
Takes the obvious groove on the right of the crag.
(5b). Climb the groove to the large overhang. Step right and move
up the wall.
Karl Telfer, Charlotte Telfer, 13th August 2003
Mentioned as top-roped in 95/96 Recent Developments. The team
also repeated other routes on the crag.
|
KIRKSTONE
PASS
Kirkstone Crag
(p232) |
Red
Pit Crack
12m HVS
Start between The Great Game
and Resignation Route.
(5b). Climb the damp crack to the overhang. Exit this on the left,
step back right and climb the groove, passing a large block on the
left, to the top. Belay well back.
Alan Swann, Rick Gordon, August 1999 |
ULLSWATER
Brunt Crag
(p236) |
|
The
Brunt 12m HVS
Start
just right of Picnic Groove at a pedestal.
(5a).Climb
up onto a small ledge. Above is a line of flake holds leading
up and rightwards across the steep wall. Follow these to reach
the horizontal break with difficulty. Continue to the top onbetter
holds. Good rough rock with adequate protection.
A.
Slattery, R Davison, 7th May 1993.
Working
Lunch HVS
(5a).4
metres left of Jack’s Chimbley. Climb the overhang direct
Daran
Hall, June 1994
|
ULLSWATER
Gowbarrow Crag
(p236) |
|
Lower
Buttress
There
was a big rockfall here in 2004
Middle
Buttress
The Whisperer
E3
Climbs the overhang and buttress right of the Whistle Away.
(6a). Step off the block and move up to the overhang - good thread
on the Whistle Away. Make a long reach right from undercuts.
Swing out and up to good holds and easier ground.
Karl Telfer, Charlotte Telfer, 13th August 2003
The Whinger
E3
Climbs the overhang between Valicide and the Whistler.
Start left of the Whistler.
(5b). Move up to the small bush and climb the overhang directly
above this to good holds then up to join the last few moves of
the Whistler.
Karl Telfer, 14th August 2003
NB
The bush has been 'manicured' at some time in the past and the
overhang cleaned.
Valicide
seemed hard for 5b, not entirely obvious and very bold. I would
certainly say 5c and possibly E4 (or E3 with a health warning).
(Notes from Nigel Thomas).
Tick It
VS
(4c). Ascend the wall between Valicide and Shamrock
Annon, 2002
Sweet Williams
20m VS
Start at the foot of the flake crack near the left-hand end of
the middle tier.
4c. Move up the flake crack to place a runner, then step back
down to the ledge. Move right across the steep wall until it is
possible to move up and right to a good ledge where the angle
eases. Go up the slab and finish over the overlap via a short
groove on the left.
William Parker, William Ripley, 6th April 2002.
Tick It and Sweet Williams
seem to be the same route. The route is best started from just
left of Valicide, up a short corner to reach the bottom of Shamrock
Crack. Grade confirmed, possibly worth a star.
Upper Buttress
It's a
good job the Vulture's got Long Wings: The route is more than
40m. With belays, the pitches are 1. 25m, and 2. 35m. The gear
is good. The rock is sound. Lower end of HVS. Worth a star. (Worth
two stars if Mike's Dilema is the benchmark) - notes from first
ascensionist.
Bypass 20m HVS
A
variation to the Girdle, starting from the top of pitch 1.
(5a).
Traverse left to Susan, step left and continue traversing
the mossy 3 slab into Gowbarrow Buttress. Climb the crack
for 3 metres, move left around a rib and traverse left to an oak.
B
Rogers, S Scott, 26th October 1975
|
MARTINDALE
Thrang Crags (p241) |
| These crags are really dirty and neglected. |
MARTINDALE
Upper Thrang Crag (p245) |
|
Odile 25m HVS
Climbs
the steep wall and shallow groove 3 metres right of the arete
of Gouttes d'Eau.
(5a)
Start directly below the obvious V-groove. Climb straight up the
wall to the groove and follow it to a good ledge. Step left and
make an awkward move up the arete, then cross the mossy slab to
finish at the same point as Responsibility.
John
Unsworth, Dave Blanden, 9th September 1995
|
ULLSWATER
Main Crag - Roscombe Rigg
(408 193) |
|
Most
probably climbed on in the '60s and '70s by Ullswater Outward
Bound instructors but nothing has been recorded. The crag is in
a fantastic situation with further possibilities for development.
Approach from Sandwick (Ullswater) in 35 minutes. Descent is by
the obvious gully on the right of the crag. The routes are described
from left to right.
|
25m VD
From the lowest point on the crag, ascend the obvious arete
to the top.
Mathew Cox, 25th June 2003
25m
HVS
Climb the right side of the overhanging nose, pulling out
right onto the slab, then back left to gain the rib. Continue
up to the back of the mossy ledge, then climb the clean
left wall of the groove.
Mathew Cox, 25th June 2003
25m
HVS
Climb the centre of the slab until it is possible to move
right onto a clean rib and continue to the top.
Neil Mackay, 25th June 2003
25m
HS
Climb the slab in the centre of the crag on good holds,
moving first left, then right, to avcoid dirt holds.
Mathew Cox, 25th June 2003
Gully
Area
12m
S
Climb the right-trending crack over bulges.
James Rutter, 25th June 2003
|
|
Photo
Above: Main Crag
|
|
Corrections |
|
