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North Gully Wall
Diamond Jubilee 22m E2
Climbs the lower left wall, starting near the foot of the diagonal ramp that leads into the dank descent gully. Start below a short, prominent groove in the front of the wall. The rock's not bad, but I noticed that abseiling sent down a shower of dead heather flowers across the upper wall, which may have covered some of the holds.
(5b) Climb a short dark groove (the right-hand one) and step left to a ledge under the prominent groove. Step up to the overhang (good gear), swing left onto a spike and pull hastily up to a larger spike. Climb diagonally left on good holds (keeping above a sloping ledge) to gain a smaller ledge by a rather unprotected move. Step right on good holds to finish. Tree abseil point in place.
A Phizacklea, JL Holden, 9th September 2007
The name reflects the fact that it's sixty years since Jim Birkett did the last route on this wall - to put this into a historical context, sixty years before that, Haskett Smith had only just climbed The Needle! I'm amazed that such a large area of |
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Photo Above: Martin Armitage on the
second ascent of Diamond Jubilee.
Photo: Dave Bodecott |
rock on one of the busiest crags in the district has been overlooked for so long. I climbed the prominent central corner on-sight, in a usual attempt to be wholly ethical, but my intended line, going back right through the bulges, couldn't be done without cleaning. I finished up by battling over a very unaccommodating heather cornice onto the ledge where Diamond Jubilee finishes. There's a good deal of potential left, but it'll need a good clean. Most of the rock is good, but some of the flakes tend to be a bit friable.
North Crag
The tree mentioned at the end of pitch one of Barbican is not an oak apparently!
It
has been found that the following two routes have been misdescribed
in successive guides.
Matheson
Avenue 24m
E1 1977
Confusion
has arisen as to where to upper part of the climb goes with most
parties finishing as for North Crag Eliminate which probably
accounts for its HVS grade in the current guide. The description
should read:-.
A
superb pitch. Start from a large ash some 4m above the yew on
North Crag Eliminate.
(5b).
Carefully avoiding two large loose blocks at the start, climb
the excellent crack to the niche on North Crag Eliminate.
Make a hard move into the steep groove directly above the niche
(and just left of the finishing groove of North Crag Eliminate)
and follow it to the top.
P
Gomersall, B Masson, Easter 1977
The
crack was climbed by K Woods, M Gough and M Biden in 1965
Side
of the Hill
70m E1 1974
This
climb originally had three pitches, but only the top one ever
made it into the guide books. The lower two have recently been
re-cleaned, and the whole, as described, makes a worthwhile route.
Start
as for North Crag Eliminate, at a large ash just left of
the stone wall.
1
25m (5b). Climb the steep crack direct to a narrow ledge at 4m
(Direct Start to North Crag Eliminate). Traverse
the footledge horizontally to its left-hand end and then make
a rising traverse leftwards up slabs to a small cracked ledge
on the arete (junction with The Watchtower). Climb the
bulge above to pull out onto the ramp of North Crag Eliminate
(Watchtower goes right here) and follow its left arete
leftwards into a scoop. Climb out of this to a belay at the foot
of a short cracked corner overhung by brambles.
2
25m (5b). From the foot of the corner, step diagonally leftwards
and gain the arete. Move up with difficulty to a resting place
and then follow the blunt arete above, direct to a ledge behind
the yew on North Crag Eliminate.
3.
30m (5a). Climb the yew to gain holds above the overhang. Move
left and climb the corner groove just left of the flake crossing
North Crag Eliminate just left of the flake and continue
direct to the top.
S
Miller, N Robinson, August 1974
Pitch 2 the length should be 15m (not 25m). The route as described
is worthwhile, but pitches 1 and 2 are a bit grubby. Take a brush.
(CR). Top pitch is probably 5b (SR).
Agony:
Protection of the top pitch is considerably worse than it used
to be as many of the flakes that provided spike runners have gone
- a possible contender for E2 (5a, 5a)
Crusader
74m E3
Start
as for Agony.
1
30m (5a). Climb to the thin flake at 5 metres, then go vertically
up the cleaned wall to join Zig Zag at the bulge. Continue
up Zig Zag to the left end of the terrace. Tree belay.
2
20m (6a). Up the clean wall on the right to a ledge below the
Last Laugh crux. Traverse left for 3 metres and climb the
shallow groove (peg runner) slanting left through the bulges(crux)
direct to the tree belay on North Crag Eliminate pitch
3.
3
24m (5b). Continue up the gangway as for North Crag Eliminate
pitch 4.
T.
Daley, D. Bodecott, J. Campbell, D. Absalom, C. Bonington. 22nd
July 94
World
Party E1
A
direct on One World, One Family.
(5c)
Climb the groove direct without placing runners in Agony.
C.
Downer, F. Fowler, 7th August
Deliverance 25m HVS
A
good direct pitch taking the natural line that pitch 2 of Agony
avoids. Starts from the junction of Agony, Overhanging
Bastion and Zig Zag.
1
25m (5a). Step onto the foot of the slab of Zig Zag, leave
it immediately by a shallow corner leading to the flake on Agony,
continue to the grass ledge. Climb the excellent corner/crack
into the easier groove which joins the big slab of Zig Zag.
Cross the slab and belay as for Agony.
2
20m (5a/4b) . Finish as for Agony or Zig Zag.
T.
Marr, M. Tooke, 31st August 1994
Z Climb: thought the climbing to be almost as hard as OB. The first pitch had a section of hollow large blocks / flakes which I think should be removed before someone gets hurt. I don't mind climbing loose stuff if the protection is sound but on these sections the runners are amongst the suspect rock. The final pitch is well protected but again the grade needs a hike to at least 4c. Again, there are some very loose holds which I feel should be removed under controlled conditions before some poor sod pulls them off or worse still, drops one on someone at the base of the crag. Must admit I won't recomend these routes in there present condition. (Tony Marr).
Overhanging Bastion: felt the first corner of OB worthy of 4c not 4b, the crux move is OK at 5a but the climb is marred by the loose rock at the junction with Barbican. Thought the loose flakes [which do lift out] to be extremely worrying [especially when there was a party directly below on Agony] are there any plans to make this pitch safer?? (Tony Marr).
May
Day Cracks should be HVS (DB and others).
Thirlmere
Eliminate - Original Finish 55m E1
The
original finish to the last pitch has now been cleaned and reclimbed.
(The pitch was lead on sight in 1955 and was still moss covered).
The original finish now provides cleaner, more continuous climbing
to the very top of the crag. The description of the original finish
has been omitted from the Eastern Crags Guide but is as follows:-
(5b)
Climb the 5b moves to above the overhang then a couple of 5a moves
are made up to the left edge. The difficulties ease and pleasant
climbing up right brings you to the large birch tree at the top
of
the pitch.
P.
Ross, 30th June 1994
Die
Another Day ** 35m E6 6b
Takes
the pillar between the second pitches of Triermain Eliminate
and Ghost and finishes up the the rib above in a superb
position. (The 'non route' in the '92 guide p135 - Last Liveseyan
'78 Supplement). Gives an appropriate second pitch to Snapdragon
/ Make Hay .... (89/90 & 97/98 supplements). A good
route that uses no holds or protection on either Triermain
Eliminate or Ghost.
1. First pitch of Triermain Eliminate or Harlot Face.
Belay on the long ledge.
2 35m (6b). Start behind the hawthorn on the long ledge, below
a thin crackline. Climb the crackline to a good jug on the right
at about 5 metres (poor Black Diamond Microstopper 3 down left,
good RP 1 high left). Continue up the crackline to a downward-pointing
spike. Reach high left and climb the bulge (crux) to easier rock
and past two old pegs to a blocky ledge on the right.Step left
and round onto the rib and climb past the Rigor Mortis
traverse to the top. Tree & nut belay. Grass scrambling to
the top !!
Karl Telfer, Paul Morgan, 14th September 2003. Top roped &
rp's pre-placed prior to ascent. May be E7 to onsight but are
looking at 80'-90' ground fall if the RP's pull!
Make
Hay while the Sun Shines
12m E7
(6b).
The short and serious wall to the left of pitch 1 of Harlot
Face.
Dave
Birkett, Andy Hyslop, 27th July 1997
From JP Hotham: Make Hay while
the Sun Shines - this route was originally climbed in about
1993 by John Paul Hotham and Ed Brown, graded E5 6a and called
Snap Dragon. It was included in a Lake District Supplement
after being written up in the new routes book at Rock and Run.
Possibly omitted at the time due to not having reached the top
of the crag.
Ted
Cheasby Direct Finish
A very good direct finish to Ted
Cheasby. Follow Ted Cheasby to the top of its crack,
but instead of going right into Angel’s Highway, make a
hard move up and left to sinking jugs. Follow the wall past a
sapling and the groove on the right to a tree covered ledge.
J McHaffie, Colin Downer, Spring 1999. However opinion is that
this has been climbed many times before.
Angel's
Highway: since the demise of the spike, this route probably
deserves E1.
Shaw Brown comments: Eliminate Girdle - Has
anyone done the first pitch of this route recently? I found it
very serious for the grade, more so than Thirmere Eliminate or
even Agony. You join Angel's Highway at the crux with only a sling
over a blunt spike. If it stays at E1 in the new guide, then a
health warning may be a good idea.
South
Crag
Chapel
Cracks is a bit pushy for MVS. Should be VS 4c. Description
could be improved as follows: P1 .......... belay on holly. P2
(existing description doesn't make much sense) (4b) Climb groove
behind holly and scruffy wall to right to reach large ledge (RW).
Via Media (S) would be much better done as one pitch. It
is direct, and the belays at end of pitch 1 are very dubious (RW).
Direct Route - Direct Start VS
4b **
Although it may not look it, this is a well protected pitch on
good holds, and is less strenuous than the normal start.
It takes the smooth looking groove bearing a stunted Yew tree,
directly above the wall / fence.
(4b). Enter the groove using the tree, move up to a spike then
step right and climb the wall on good holds to the lip of the
groove, move slightly left and exit on even better holds. Continue
straight up the normal route.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke, 18th September 2002.
Definitely done before but well
worth recording.
Other variations at Castle South Crag:The above start, but then
carry on up the left -hand side of the wall taken by Failed Romantic
to join the finish of that route - this gives an excellent HVS.
Another variation is to follow that as far as the Failed Romantic
traverse and then reverse this to pull out rightwards onto Kleine
Rinne. Or climb Failed Romantic direct up the right-hand side
of the wall and then ignore the traverse and climb straight to
the top (HVS/E1). Both sides of the wall containing Gazebo also
give good pitches that are fairly independent at about HVS.
Romantically
Challenged 36m E1 **
A left-hand variant on Failed Romantic. Start at the fence.
(5b). Climb the short groove containing a stubby yew, then straight
up the wall to a rightward-rising crackline. Cross this and continue
directly up the left-hand side of the wall to join the last few
moves of Failed Romantic, and gain the ledge. Pull over
the juggy sandwiched bulge above.
Stephen Reid, Tony Lywood (I think!) 2002ish, repeated by SR,
Mike Searson 25th July 2004.
Not a new route - it's all been done before, but an excellent
quick-drying way up the crag for those who have done everything
else.
BC
comments: Southern Traverse: You will need a steady second
on this route; pitch 2 is all descent! The first section on pitch
3 is tricky (4b) and still in descent mode. It would probably
be a better route in reverse; maybe starting up Via Media.
The
route described below may take a similar line to Pinnacle Wall.
Basil
the Behemoth
E1 5b
Start
in an eroded hollow at the foot of Yew Tree Climb.
1
(13m). Climb directly up the left hand side of the large wall,
bounded on the right by Gangway Climb - via two rock steps.
The steep wall leads to a grassy ledge - poor protection, a bit
of a monster.
2
(19m). Up and slightly left to another grassy ledge with a sapling.
Trend left up a gangway to reach a crescent shaped crack beneath
a large flake. This point is directly above the holly tree on
Yew Tree Climb. Climb the crack left of the flake.
Huw
Smithson, Richard Smithson 14th April 1995
In
Commemoration
E2
(5c).
A short filler-in taking a direct line through two small overlaps
just left of the pinnacle. Cross Gangway Climb and finish
more easily up the wall above. No gear until past the overlaps.
Needs a good brushing!
M
Turner (solo), 9th April 1995
(The
above route seems to have been inadvertently missed out from earlier
updates.)
Gangway Direct 22m VS 4c
(4c). Follow Gangway Climb to the blocks at the top of the first pitch and then stretch for good handholds on the lefthand edge of the gangway itself and swing round left on to the face at a heather-filled crack. Now climb direct, through Gangway Climb, and up the lichen-speckled wall above to a ledge with pinnacle at its left end. Finish direct.
Frank Wilkinson, Mike Bebbington, Ian Knight, 10th October 2007
Lilith HS
A nice alternative to Wall Climb and Slab Climb.
Start
2 metres right of Wall Climb.
Ascend
the slab and steep wall above. A hold does move on the steep wall,
but it is well protected.
Dave
Pomfret, 18th October 2002
Sursum
Tuus 100 m E1
A left to right girdle. Surprisingly independent and with plenty
of interest, low in the grade and not sustained. As with all traverses,
care is needed to protect the second. Start 10 metres left of
Chapel Cracks, at the left side of a multi-stemmed tree,
above which is a prow of rock.
1 12 m (4a). Climb up the right side of the prow, passing a stunted
tree, to reach a ledge. Climb the steep wall above to a sapling
belay.
2 20 m (5a). Traverse right, step up onto a platform. Gain, and
traverse rightwards along, the slabby shelf, into the corner of
Chapel Cracks. Make an awkward move down to a ledge. Traverse
straight across the wall on the right, into the obvious corner,
move down and enter the chimney on the right, climb up it into
a rock crevasse, belay. Junction with Scoop and Crack.
3 12 m (5b). Step right into the groove, move right and up, pull
round onto the steep slab of Green Eggs & Ham. Move
right and climb a short steep wall to gain runners in the narrow
groove above on the left (to protect the second). Traverse right
across the top of a groove and pull out right to a belay (junction
with Gazebo).
4 20 m (4b). Move up and traverse right along a rock foot ledge,
to gain and climb a rightward rising crack line to the arete (junction
with Kleine Rhinne). Step round onto the slab and bridge
across the top of the corner, pull out right to tree belays on
Yew Tree Climb.
5 36 m. Step right and up, before making a slightly rising traverse
rightwards across the wall, to gain a spike runner just above
the gangway on Gangway Climb. Traverse right across the
wall to gain the top of the slabs and traverse these just beneath
the steeper headwall to the foot of the short steep corner of
Slab Climb, move right and climb the pleasant clean wall
rightwards to the top.From the foot of the short steep corner
of Slab Climb, the traverse can be continued across a little
vegetation onto the final rocks of No Name. Then continue
to the extreme right edge of the crag!
G L Swainbank, C Read (alt), 29th August 2005
Pitch 1 is still rather scruffy, but should improve with traffic.
The name implies the attitude required if attempting this on a
busy day. |
