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15 minutes walk
across the moor from the view
point on top of Ulpha Fell the outcropping is plainly visible.
Just left (and below) of the obvious grass rake cutting the crag
is a square corner.
Al Phizacklea notes: There is a notable unclimbed line here - bound to be hard - the thin crack above the start of War Crimes.
The following
climbs have been recorded by JW Bremner.
A ruined sheepfold
wall abutts the crag. Above is a groove whose bottom overhangs
the base of the rock.
Grooved
Buttress 43m HS
1 17m. Start
a metre or so from the wall and climb steep pleasant rock trending
right to reach the left end of an obvious traverse; follow the
traverse to an awkward move into the groove and climb the groove
to a ledge.
2 14m. Continue
up the groove, then follow a whaleback to a wall.
3 12m. To the
right the wall has a large shallow scoop. Drop down grass for
a few metre or so, traverse into the scoop and exit it by a groove
above.
JW Brenner, Karen
Hewitt (Alt), 19th August 1974
Nocturne
42m MVS
1 14m. Climb
the fine inclined corner right of Grooved
Buttress to a stance and belays.
2 5m. Cross grass
to a large block.
3 23m. From the
top of the block climb a corner to an obvious flake, pull up and
right into another well-defined corner, then traverse right across
a slab, under a chockstone groove. Continue up the slab immediately
right of the groove and finish by trending slightly left up steep
rock on perfect holds.
JW Bremner, Anthea
Hardy, 26th June 1975
Kraken
Corner
23m
HVS
Right of Nocturne is a wall with a grass ramp either
side of it, and split by a central crack. Above and somewhat right
is an obvious corner. The aim, imperfectly realised is to follow
the central crack.
1 10m. Climb
a recess and step left to reach a flake jammed in a hole at the
foot of the crack. Pull up and right onto a small ledge and move
diagonally left to exit via the crack using a jammed flake. Belay
on a ledge.
2 13m. Climb
the slab rightwards from the stance to the foot of the obvious
corner. Climb the corner until forced right by a bulge, then finish
on easier rock above the bulge.
JW Bremner, Anthea
Hardy, 23rd June 1975
Pisa
Pie 23m VS
A crackline runs
all the way up the crag starting from the foot of a grass ramp
which is itself immediately right of Kraken
Corner. The bottom section of the crack is formed by a tower
which leans against the wall to its right. The top section is
a groove which bends left and then right.
1 11m.The crack
followed by ledges, to reach a ledge and belays at the foot of
a short overhanging wall.
2 12m. Follow
the crack up the wall (crux), then continue easily to finish up
the bendy groove.
JW Bremner, 21st
June 1975
Gangway
& Turret 63m
VD
Towards the right-hand
end of the crag is a horizontal sloping gangway which overhangs
a pedestal slab.
1 31m. Gain the
gangway at its right-hand end, move left along it, then up either
right or left of jammed blocks, to reach a grass ledge.
2 32m Move left
and up a pleasant rib, then diagonally left across grass to an
outcrop with a 3 metre turret abutting against it. Climb the corner
right of the turret, move left onto a ledge and up to a spike
on the left. Step off this to finish up a slab.
JW Bremner, 14th
August 1973
Left-Hand
Groove 26m MS
Start a metre
left of Right-Hand Groove.
1. Pull up onto
a gangway similar to that on Gangway
& Turret but higher and move left along it to a break.
Follow the break and a groove to reach an overhung slab. Make
a sensational move left to escape the overhanging wall, then go
up easily to a grass ledge (on Gangway & Turret).
2. From the foot
of the corner right of the belay, pull left on a good spike and
up a sort of short crack.
JW Bremner, 13th
October 1974
Right-Hand
Groove 26m MS
A steep short
groove starts from the right-hand end of Pedestal
Slab. Climb this and the groove above, which has a slightly
overhanging start. Scramble up a metre or so of heather and up
the groove directly above which is just right of the groove of
Left-Hand Groove. At
the top, pull onto the rib on the right, then traverse right across
an easy slab to finish up a short steep left-tilted crack.
JW Bremner, 13th
October 1974
The following
lines were recorded recently by Dave Kay who was unaware that
the earlier climbs had been done. There may be some overlap. These
climbs are described from RIGHT to LEFT.
Pleasant
Enough 30m
D
Start at the
bottom of the easy angled rib which bounds the very right-hand
side of the crag.
Climb the slab.
A pleasant outing.
Cokie van der
Velde, Dave Kay, 22nd March 1999
The
Stroll 27m HS
Starts 10m right
of the bottom of the grass rake at the right-hand end of a glacis
slab which abuts the foot of the crag.
From the right-hand
end of the glacis pull up on to the diagonal fault line running
leftwards across the crag and follow this to belay in a bay
Dave Kay, Cokie
van der Velde, 22nd March 1999
Route
51 18m HS
The obvious corner/crack
rising from the back of the bay in the upper wall half way up
the grass ramp.
Climb the corner,
mainly on the right, to good belays
Dave Kay, Cokie
van der Velde, 3rd April 1999
Another
Five Months Gone 18m
VS
(4c). Start about
1m left of the foot of the obvious corner of Route 51 at the back of the grassy bay and climb the steep crack direct
to belay well back.
Dave Kay, Mark
Evans, 29th August 1999
No
Rolling Stone 20m
S
Start half way
up the grass ramp to the left of the bay and just left of a large
triangular block.
Climb the slab
left of the block to the leftward slanting crack line, follow
this, pull on to the slab and finish up the obvious crack above.
Cokie van der
Velde, Dave Kay, 3rd April 1999
The next routes
start in the square corner below the grass rake.
Airstrike
12m E1
(5b). Start at
the foot of the steep rib bounding the right side of the corner.
Pull up strenuously and climb to the grass ramp.
Dave Evans (solo),
2nd April 1999
Slobodan
Slab 14m
E2
(5c). Takes the
wall right of the corner to the same belay as War Crime (details of this route are not known at present!). No Gear
Will Wilson (solo),
2nd April 1999
Milosevic
25m HVS
(5a). Pull on
to the short gangway at the left edge of the corner and then climb
directly to the obvious V-groove above. Enter the groove with
difficulty and follow continuation cracks to the top.
James Kay, Dave
Kay, 2nd April 1999
Mothers
Day 22m D
The left bounding
rib of the obvious corner gives a pleasant route.
Cokie van der
Velde, Dave Kay, 22nd March 1999
About 100m left
(towards Eskdale) is a very steep short wall with a rightwards
slanting gangway on its left.
I’ll
Be Calling Roo 15m
D
Start at the
toe of the little subsidiary rib which abuts the wall on its left.
Climb the rib
and follow the rightward slanting gangway to the top.
Mark Evans, Dave
Kay, 29th August 1999
100m left again
from the steep wall and well down on the end of the knoll of Great Crag is an easy angled rounded buttress.
The following routes take in this buttress.
One-2-One
20m S
Takes the slab
at the right-hand side of the buttress.
Pull on to the
slab and follow a thin crack directly to the top.
Mike Lynch, John
Lynch, Dave Kay, 28th August 1999
Friends
& Family 20m
S
Start at the
same point as One-2-One
but pull on to the slab and immediately traverse left to a foot
ledge. From here climb directly up the edge of the rib into the
obvious crack line above and finish up this.
John Lynch, Dave
Kay, Mike Lynch, 28th August 1999
Cable
& Wireless 20m VD
At the left edge
of the buttress is a pleasant flake-crack line.
Start at the
toe of the rib and follow the crack to good belays in a grassy
bay.
Dave Kay, John
Lynch, Mike Lynch, 28th August 1999
However
(!) John Daly writes, "A while back I also
did some new routes on Great Crag, Birker Fell, but because two
groups of climbers had counter-claimed various first ascents (Bremner
and Kay/Lynch) I have attempted to clear up the confusion by checking
all the routes."
Fifteen minutes walk across the moor from
the viewpoint on top of Ulpha Fell, the outcropping is plainly
visible. Just left of (and below) the obvious grass rake cutting
the crag is a prominent steep wall with a ruined sheepfold abutting
the base of the crag (Milosevic Area). The first routes
described lie on the more broken buttress to the right of the
grass rake, and are described from right to left.
Pleasant
Enough 30m D
Start at the bottom of the easy angled rib at the very right-hand
side of the crag. Climb the pleasant slab just right of the rib.
Variation Finish (MS) The steeper slab just right of a
grooved nose.
Cokie van der Velde, Dave Kay, 22nd March 1999
Variation Finish, J Daly, D Geere (solo), 24 February 2001
Gangway
and Turret 37m S
Starts 10 metres left of the rib at the right-hand end of a glacis
slab which abuts the foot of the crag.
1 27m. From the right-hand end of the glacis pull up on to the
diagonal fault-line/gangway running leftwards across the crag
and follow this to belay in a grass bay.
2 10m. The short steep corner and slabby rib above.
JW Bremner, 14th August 1973
Also claimed as 'The Stroll' by D Kay 22nd March 1999
Two other
routes claimed in this vicinity do not merit detailed descriptions.
Left-Hand Groove follows a similar line to Gangway and
Turret, whilst Right-Hand Groove is rambling in nature.
Long Johns
20m VS
Start 7metres left of Gangway and Turret at the centre
of the easy glacis.
(4c). Climb the glacis and pull boldly over the centre of the
overhang above to gain a hanging slab. Easier ground leads directly
up to a prominent short crack and bulge to finish.
J Daly (solo), 18th March 2002
Pisa Pie
28m VS
A broken crackline runs all the way up the crag starting from
the foot of a heather ramp just right of Kraken Corner.
The scrappy crack interspersed with heather ledges leads to a
short overhanging section of crack (crux). A bendy groove above
leads to the top.
JW Bremner, 21st June 1975
Midway up
the grass rake is an obvious large boulder with a grassy bay/ledge
to its right. The next two entertaining routes start up a short
steep wall immediately beneath the bay.
Kraken
Corner 28m HVS.
Start in a small recess on the right side of the wall.
1 10m (5a). From the recess, step left and climb the steep crack
up the right side of the wall to belay in the bay.
2 18m (4b). Climb the slab rightwards from the stance to the foot
of the obvious right-facing corner. Climb the corner until forced
right by a bulge, finish up easier rock above.
Direct Finish (5a). Climb the corner crack direct.
JW Bremner, Anthea Hardy, 23rd June 1975
Pitch 2 also claimed by D Kay as 'Route51' 3rd April 1999.
Direct Finish J Daly, D Geere, 24th February 2001
The Minimalist
9m E1/2
(5b). Climb the centre of the short wall without recourse to either
crack.
J Daly (solo), 18th March 2002
Another
Five Months Gone 17m VS
Start in the grassy bay about 1 metre left of the obvious corner
of pitch 2 of Kraken Corner.
Climb the crack just left of the steep rock pillar to belay well
back.
Dave Kay, Mark Evans, 29th August 1999
Grubstake
18m VS
(4c). Start just left of Another Five Months Gone, and
climb up and left and then straight up the steep wall
M Lynch, D Kay, July 2000
Lime Green
15m MVS
Starts in the grassy bay just right of the large boulder and takes
a direct line through the traverse pitch of Nocturne.
(4b). Climb the obvious lime green groove to an overhang and use
a jammed flake above to gain the hanging V-groove which leads
to the top.
D Geere, J Daly, 17th February 2001
Nocturne
23m VS
Start on top of the large boulder.
(4b). Climb a corner to an obvious flake, pull up right to another
corner and traverse rightwards across a slab, under a chockstone
V-groove, to finish up the slab just right of the groove.
Variation Finish (4c). Traverse further right across a
rock pillar to Kraken corner.
JW Bremner, Anthea Hardy, 26th June 1975
See note below on Nocturne's original pitch 1.Variation Finish
DG/JD, D Geere, J Daly, 24th February 2001
No Rolling
Stone 16m MS
Start halfway up the grass rake just left of the obvious large
triangular boulder.
Climb the rippled slab left of the boulder, trending left towards
an obvious finishing crack.
Cokie van der Velde, Dave Kay, 3rd April 1999
Milosevic
Area
Below and left of the grass rake, a ruined sheepfold abuts the
base of a steep buttress with a prominent central corner crack
and slabby right wing. The next routes are located here.
Airstrike
9m E1
(5b). Start at the foot of the rib bounding the right side of
the corner. Pull up strenuously over a bulge and follow the slab
above to the grass ramp.
Dave Evans (solo), 2nd April 1999
Monte Negra
10m E1
(5c). An eliminate climb up the right edge of Slobodan Slab
with a tricky top arête.
J.Daly (solo), 24th February 2001
Slobodan
Slab 11m E2
(5c). Takes the centre of the slab just right of the corner. Belay
as for War Crime. No Gear.
Will Wilson (solo), 24th April 1999
The corner
crack just left, climbed and named War Crime by Dave Kay's
party, had previously been climbed as pitch 1 of Nocturne by J.W
Bremner. Due to the wandering nature of the latter route (changing
buttresses), I would suggest splitting it and using both route
names.
War Crime
11m Hard Sev
(4b). Climb the obvious corner crack.
JW Bremner, Anthea Hardy, 26th June 1975
The left wall
of the corner has an obvious V-groove high on the left side of
the wall. Milosevic starts beneath this.
Milosevic
20m HVS
(5a). Pull on to a short gangway and then climb directly to the
obvious V-groove above. Enter the groove with difficulty and follow
continuation cracks to the top.
James Kay, Dave Kay, 2nd April 1999
Mothers'
Day 20m D
The left-bounding rib of the obvious corner gives a pleasant route.
Cokie van der Velde, Dave Kay, 22nd March 1999
The start of Mothers' Day and groove of Milosovic had been
climbed before by J.W Bremner, 19th August 1974, as part of Grooved
Buttress - a somewhat disjointed route.
The next route starts on a small subsidiary wall, 15 metres up
left from the ruined sheepfold
Conundrum
15m HVS
(5a). Start at the centre of the wall where a short triangular
rib leans against the face. From the top of the rib pull onto
the impending wall above, make a long reach up right, then up
the wall direct. Spike belay on the easy rib above.
J Daly, D Geere, 17th February 2001.
About 100m
left (towards Eskdale) is an impending short wall with a fence
abutting its base.
Incursion
12m E1
(5b) Start on the flake by the fence. Climb the prominent mossy
right hand groove, taking care with a suspect flake.
J Daly, N White 30th March 2002
Gaza Strip
12m E2/3
(5c). Start on a small rocky rib just left of Incursion.
Climb the steep wall direct using a series of short diagonal cracks.
J Daly, N White 30th March 2002
I'll Be
Calling Roo 13m D
Start up an easy subsidiary rib abutting the left end of the wall
and climb the obvious rightward-slanting gangway above to the
top.
Mark Evans, Dave Kay, 29th August 1999
One hundred
metres left again from the steep wall and well down on the end
of the knoll of Great Crag is an easy angled rounded buttress.
The following routes are on this buttress.
One-2-One
20m MS
Climbs the slab at the right-hand side of the buttress following
a thin crack.
Mike Lynch, John Lynch, Dave Kay, 28th August 1999
Friends
& Family 20m MS
Start at the same point as One-2-One but immediately traverse
left to a foot ledge. From here climb directly up the edge of
the rib into the obvious crackline above and finish up this.
John Lynch, Dave Kay, Mike Lynch, 28th August 1999
Cable &
Wireless 20m VD
At the left edge of the buttress is a pleasant flake-crackline.
Start at the toe of the rib and follow the crack to good belays
in a grassy bay.
Dave Kay, John Lynch, Mike Lynch, 28th August 1999
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