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Last Updated: 12/4/08

	SCAFELL, WASDALE & ESKDALE Eskdale (pages 212 - 336) Page numbers refer to the FRCC Guide: Scafell, Wasdale & Eskdale (1996)
		FELL and ROCK CLIMBING CLUB of the English Lake District

A Plea for Photographs

Photos of crags in good light in summer are needed for the next edition of this guide. Please contact the FRCC Guidebook Photographs Editor if you think you have any such photos (in any format). Needless to say any good action photos would also be well received - for these we need to know: crag, route, grade, pitch, name of climber, name of photographer. You don't get paid I'm afraid, but you will get a free guidebook if we use any of your pictures!

ESKDALE
Bell Stand (p222)

Anniversary Waltz, Bob Wightman writes, "How on earth does this get E2 6a? It is no harder than the HVS crack to the right (I forget the name of this one). E1 5b would be a fair grade for both of them."

WARNING Plumbline (VS): Mike Willoughby writes that this climb currently is in a very dangerous state to climb. Several 'large bible' sized flakes ready to imminently ping off confronted me at about 3 metres, which led to a rapid retreat. A pity as it looks like a great climb, and appears fine from below. However Bill Pattinson states (8/10/07): "Did the route (again) today, yes there is a loose block but it seems mechanicaly sound and you would have to something pretty stupid to displace it, rest of the route no problems encountered."

ESKDALE
Hare Crag (p226)

Trevor Langhorne suggests that some grades are slightly wayward, probably due to use. Celebration is no harder than pleasant slab (S) , the start of Plaque Route is about 4c (rather than 4a) for a handful of moves above a perfect landing. The second pitch of Jugged Hare felt 4b and harder that the first. Jugged Hare - agree with Trevor, but lack of gear on pitch one makes it harder in the head. Roger Wilkinson writes: Birch Tree Buttress (The Lower Buttress) is also overgraded - severe 4a rather than VS 4c. By way of contrast, Slit Wall is undergraded at HVS.

The Lower Buttress

Birch Tree Buttress, Right-Hand Branch 15m VS

Just right of Birch Tree Buttress is a V-corner.

(4c). Climb the slab on the right of the corner to a heather ledge, then the blocky corner on the left.
WE Pattison, DA Barrass, 2^nd April 2000

Central Slabs

Hareless Heart is very easy for E1. A better description would be:
HVS (5a). Climb the flake and wall above to reach the slab. Go straight up this until gear can be placed in a flake crack on the left. At this point a faint diagonal crease runs up right. Follow it to its end, step up to a hand spike, and traverse left and then go up the slab on the left.
It is possible that the original line was more direct, but it is hard to see from the description, and the above is a very logical route.

Birthday Boy is very easy for E1. HVS 5a would be more accurate.

Pre Election Tension 23m VS
This route provides an easier approach to the right hand side of the slabs. Interest is sustained at the grade. Start two metres right of Birthday Boy.
(4c). Follow the left trending stepped ramp out onto the slab. Climb the dirty cracks above directly to the top.
D Bailey, P Bailey, 30th April 1997

ESKDALE
Goat Crag (p235)

Left Buttress

Waiting for the Fall: The guide book shows the wrong start. The original start was the extreme left-hand side of the slab, left of the block. It is delicate with no gear for a long way and probably deserves E2 5b - hence the name (Bill Pattinson).

Right Buttress

The Chytrid* Kid 14m VD
An engaging line: A refreshing contrast from the blank slabs on this section of Goat Crag! Between Billy Goat Arete and Kid You Not is a grassy recess at a slightly higher level. The Chytrid Kid climbs the slab and rightwards-leaning pillar above.
Climb the crack in the slab, just right of the heather-filled groove, then traverse right to a prominent foot-ledge on the front of the pillar. Climb the short crack above to gain the top slab (crux). Romp up the slab to a pleasing stance on top of the pillar.
Mike Willoughby, Jimmy Eccles,: 18th August 2004
*Chytrid: a microscopic fungus of bewildering variety, found in soils universally.

A Crack-in' End S
The crack-system up the right edge of the slab taken by End Slab is gained delicately from the right side of the slab. A Direct Start for thugs gains the crack from the ledge on the right (4a).
Mike Willoughby (solo), 30th May 2005

Lower Right Slab (2012 0199)

Located to the right of, and further down the hill than, Right Buttress. The track to the main crag passes over the top of this slab.

Paddy 15m S

Climb the clean line from the newly cleared area at the left hand side of the main slab and right of the mossy area. Tend rightwards to pass to the right of the black streak on small holds and friction to the top.

D Moger, P Simms, 23rd June 1999

McGinty 18m S

Start approximately 3m right of Paddy.

Climb the clean area past a rightward slanting break to a slab above. Follow this to the top on delicate small holds and friction.

D Moger, P Simms, 23rd June 1999

ESKDALE
Tortoise Crag GR 206 017 Alt 270m approximately (Near Goat Crag)

The crag is reached from the Hove Crag car park in about 20 minutes where the footpath to Scafell is followed diagonally rightwards up the fellside and through four gates close together. Continue for 300 metes approximately before turning off left. The crag will be reached in about 5 minutes from here.

The crag is good granite. It was damp in places on the day of ascent so grades are approximate.

1. Take it Easy 100m HS (4b) 2. Witchy Woman 75m D 3. Lyin' Eyes 50m S (4a) 4. Already Gone 30m VS (4b) 5. Desperado 30m VS (4c) 6. One of those Nights 25m VS (4c) 7. Tequila Sunrise 25m VS (4c) 8. Take it to the Limit 25m VS (4c) 9. Peaceful Easy Feeling 25m VS (4b) 10. Best of my Love 30m VD All routes climbed by Paul C Bennett (solo), 14th September 2002

However, Bill Pattison states that most of the routes mentioned have been climbed from 1980 on by amongst others Penny Kirby, Dave Barras, Jamie Pattison and myself; I agree they are good fun and a great place to have to yourself; or were...

Photos: Top Right: Paul C Bennett on Already Gone (VS). Bottom Right: Paul C Bennett on One of These Nights ( VS). Bottom Left: Paul C Bennett on Already Gone (VS).

ESKDALE
Bull How (205 019)

This granite south-west to west facing crag, just north of Tortoise Crag, gives routes up to 30 metres long in the D - VS. The rock is slabby with blind cracks. Routes have been climbed here in 2004 (by John Temple, Jo Cambell, Stuart Worsfold and George?) and in 2005 (by John Temple and Peter Spalding), but full details are not known. However, Bill Pattison states that most of the routes here have been climbed from 1980 on by amongst others Penny Kirby, Dave Barras, Jamie Pattison and myself; I agree they are good fun and a great place to have to yourself; or were... Bull How: right, a detail, and below, the whole crag.

ESKDALE
Brock Crag (p237)

Crazylegs 19m E1
(5a). Climb the arete 4 metres left of Little Cenotaph on its right until the end of the crack. Step round the arete (care taken with loose block) and go straight up, pulling boldly onto the sloping ledge. Finish on increasingly good holds up the steep crack.
Philip Wake, Rob Fielding, 27th September 2003

ESKDALE
Heron Crag (p237)

Graham Hoey has sent in the following notes on Mean Feat. First pitch cleaner than it looks. Crux holds are fine and the slightly dirty holds above are big. Second pitch is interesting! Bold up to the crux. Small Friend (possibly a bit better than the RP but removes best handhold!). There is a jug and a good peg straight after the crux which had I known about would have made me feel a bit happier on the move which seemed bold for E3. The slab after that to the roof was filthy. At the roof it was very difficult for anyone of my height (5' 7") to get any decent gear in. The last good gear was a long way below and the move over the roof probably 5c (too short to reach the good part of a flake jug which would provide an excellent overhead runner if I could have reached it properly - I just managed to poke a Friend in on two cams at full stretch). We thought the route deserved E4 if you are short/average height?

ESKDALE
Cam Spout Boulders - aka Samson's Stones (p252)

Considerable development has taken place here recently courtesy of Greg Chapman and Neil Kershaw. Check http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/17.html for details, photos and a free topo pdf.

ESKDALE
Esk Buttress (p257)

The Long Good Friday 95m E3
A good, sustained companion route to Central Pillar (see footnote). Start at the base of Square Chimney Route.
1 33m (5b). Move up to a good spike at the very base of the Square Chimney. then step right on a heathery ledge to an incut hold on the steep wall. Pull up to gain a thin crackline in the front of the pillar, which is followed delicately to the top of the large flake on the belay of Bridge's Route. Climb the thin crack just right of the flake corner of Bridge's Route pitch 2 to a stance just right of the pinnacle (which is Bridge's Route second belay).
2 38m (5b/c). Follow the thin crack which leads directly to the junction between the slab and the headwall. Follow this junction rightwards, passing an awkward overhang, (crossing the Cumbrian where it starts to go left on the headwall), and continue up into a delicate scoop. Step right and finish up the last 5 metres of pitch 4 of Central Pillar.
3 25m. (5c). Start up the thin crack directly above the belay to a good hold at 4 metres, then pull rightwards across a fingery wall (poor Rock 2 in a horizontal crack) and lurch for the "doubtful block" on Central Pillar. Pull onto the higher ledge, as for Central Pillar, then reach a higher ledge, which is hand-traversed left to a point directly above the initial crack. Finish straight up.
Al Phizacklea, John Holden, 18th April 2003
Notes: Pitch 3 was top roped on an earlier visit. This line incorporates sections of various routes, but it strings them together into one good continuous line to give a fine companion route to Central Pillar. The majority of pitch 2 is the lower section of Esk Ape, a line I climbed back in '90. It seemed a pity that such a good section of climbing at a reasonable standard wasn't being climbed by anyone operating below E5, so it now forms the main part of pitch 2. The thin crack at the start of P3 is Strontium Dog (not many teams do that route) and the finish above the block on CP is Rick and Johnny's Direct finish to CP. I hope they don't mind me incorporating it into this route. So, if you've already climbed Esk Ape and CP direct finish, this route won't provide much in the way of new rock above pitch 1.

Central Pillar - Direct Finish E1 5a

A good way to finish the route is carry straight on up after the steep wall of pitch 5, avoiding the easy traverse right to pitch 6.

5b 21m (5a). Follow pitch 5 to the "doubtful" block and climb up to a higher ledge. Continue up a steep slab and step boldly left under the overhang to finish more easily up a crack on the right edge of the main wall.

Rick Graham, John Adams 25th July 1998

ESKDALE
Ill Crag - The West Face (p286)

Half a kilometre north of Broad Crag, across the combe, lies a prominent square-cut scree gully (GR 223 077). It is bounded on its right by a steep wall and on its left by a light-coloured attractive slabby ridge. The first route takes the slabby ridge.

Whimsy Ridge 40m MVS 2007
Start at a cairn in an open nook just above the base of the ridge. A delightful climb.
1 32m (4b). Climb the ridge to a ledge below a marked steepening. Follow the steep rib, and continue up the fine, curving arete to a ledge with a block belay on the left.
2 8m. Step back right, and move up a short wall to reach easier ground and the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 14th May 2007

The crag continues left but is rather too broken. However, at its end after 110 metres, the rock compacts to form a short steep wall of excellent rock. It is easily identified by a central crack-line leading to a roofed, circular recess at 4 metres. All the routes are 10 metres long.
The central crack-line itself, taking the roof slightly on its left, is Ill Wind (HS 4b, 2007). The wall and bulge 3 metres left is Merry (MVS 4b, 2007), whilst the wall and shallow groove one metre right of the central crack-line is Pippin (S 4a, 2007). All BJ Clarke (solo), 14th May 2007.

Incidentally, a mere 200 metres north lies the newly-developed (2006) South West Buttress of Great End.

ESKDALE
Esk Pike - The West Face (p287)

Angouleme 16m HS
A deceptively awkward climb taking the angle between the broad ridge and the wall on its left. Start 5 metres left of Lozenge Ridge.
(4b). Climb a blocky ramp for 2 metres then step left onto a rib. Follow this, and grooves, to a sentry-box. Move up and swing right onto a ledge on the arete, and follow the arete directly to easier ground.
BJ Clarke (solo), 8th August 2005

Lozenge Ridge 27m MS
Fifty metres left (N) of Esk Ridge is another ridge-like buttress.Identified by its broad ridge guarded by a steep wall, and a wall on its left facing Esk Hause, seamed by sinuous cracks, with an overlap at two-thirds height. Start at the foot of the broad ridge. Climb the front of the pinnacle blocks and pull up the steep wall to reach an easy-angled groove. Follow this and continue up simple walls and slabs to the top. Descend scrambling down the broken buttress on the left (N).
BJ Clarke (solo), 8th August 2005

Crozzply 15m MVS
The flying arete bounding the lower part of Lozenge Ridge on its right. Easier than it looks due to the preponderence of jugs (except for one section)! Start 3 metres right of Lozenge Ridge.
(4b). Climb the right side of the pinnacle blocks, before pulling up right onto the crozzly wall just left of the arete. Follow this side of the arete to a final thought-provoking move to reach easier ground.
BJ Clarke (solo), 8th August 2005

Bit Part 14m MVS
The small, eliminate buttress of amazing rock just left of Eskapade Chimney.
(4b). Climb the buttress trending leftwards then move up and right to finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 8th August 2005

Eskapade Chimney 15m VD
Start 10 metres up the grassy gully right of Lozenge Ridge below a shallow, square-cut chimney groove (not the wide, loose chimney further up the gully). Bridge the chimney to a steeper finish and so reach easier ground.
BJ Clarke (solo), 8th August 2005

Esk View 45m VD
Twenty-five metres right (S) of Esk Ridge is a prominent arete. Start in a little corner just right. A pleasant ramble with striking views of rock architecture!
1 15m. Up the corner then step immediately left onto the arete. Follow this and belay on the pinnacles above.
2 12m. Overcome the cleft above, then step left across the grassy gully to follow the front of the buttress to a terrace.
3 18m. Step left and follow the slabs to easy ground.
BJ Clarke (solo), 12th September 2005

Eskuses 25m S
Above and right of Esk View is a buttress whose only redeeming feature is a sharp arete overlooking a sea of slabs. Start 18 metres up the grass/scree gully at a short, steep mossy wall guarding access to the slabs.
1 13m. Climb the wall and cross the slab leftwards to reach cracks which lead to an alcove.
2 12m. Move right and make a stiff pull onto the base of the sharp arete. Follow it with surprising ease and scramble to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 12th September 2005

ESKDALE
Long Crag (p287)

Well to the right (several hundred metres) of the routes described on this crag in the current guide is a pink slab facing towards Scafell (i.e West).

Pink Slab Route 1 20m S
(4a). This route takes the left side, just right of the mossy area, on very nice rough rock.
D Forster, S Needham, 1st June 2002
Quite possibly climbed before as it's so obvious (if a little remote).

Pink Slab Route 2 20m VS
Start below the right side of the pink slab.
(4c). Climb to a ledge then up a delicate slab, passing a block and crossing a slight bulge to the base of the upper slab. Move up and left a few feet then ascend direct via some faint cracks. Delicate with spaced protection and feels high in the grade.
S Needham, D Forster, 1st June 2002
Possibly done before?

ESKDALE
Green Howe Crags (Greenhole Crags?) (23x 05x)

When approaching from Lingcove Beck, to the left, and nearest the stream at GR 234 057 is a small, clean and solid wall about 15m high.

At the left end of the wall is a right facing corner.

Liktor VS

(4b/c). Ascend the corner direct over two bulges.

R Gordon, G Dearlove, 28th June 1998

Fasces VS

Start 2 metres right of Liktor at a block.

(4b/c). From the block gain a slab and follow cracks to the top.

R Gordon, G Dearlove, 28th June 1998

Latin Wall HVS

3m right of Fasces is a ramp.

(5a). Gain the ramp and ascend the crack directly with a hard move at the top.

R Gordon, G Dearlove, 28th June 1998

Alaric VS

3 metres right of Latin Wall is a corner/niche.

(4c). A steep start gains a ledge at 3 metres, then climb directly up the crack.

R Gordon, G Dearlove, 28th June 1998

100 metres up the hill to the right is an outcrop with an obvious overhang above a shallow corner.

Pale Rider S

(4b). Ascend easily to the overhang and turn it on the right by an interesting move.

R Gordon, G Dearlove, 28th June 1998

A further 100 metres or so right, and below Pale Rider Wall, the crag gains height.

Pinchers Slab E1

A slab identified by a large black mossy streak.

(5a). Ascend to the right of the moss. Recourse to the blocky groove on the left may reduce the grade.

R Gordon, G Dearlove, 28th June 1998

Twenty metres right and round the corner, the crag now faces north-east.

Blag VS

(4c). A flake crack with big holds leads to a steep corner which is climbed exiting left and finishing via a further corner.

R Gordon, G Dearlove, 28th June 1998

The Commoner VS

(4c). The moist and very traditional Lakeland corner is a little gem if you like that sort of thing. Follow the corner throughout, with the crux at the top.

R Gordon, G Dearlove, 28th June 1998

ESKDALE
Yew Crags (p299)

Churchyard Buttress

Devil’s Edge 17m E3

Start beneath the square arete right of Grave Robber’s Dog.

(6a). Awkward moves up bulging rock lead to a handjam in the base of the groove (good wire). Step imediately up left onto the arete where several hard moves allow a jug on the right side to be reached (skulking up the groove would be avoiding the issue). Pull up and make an exit up right to easy ground.

T Thompson, 19th August 1998

ESKDALE
Hardknott Crag (page 302)

Wheel Squeal 15m HVS
(5a). Climb up front of square detached pillar, directly above pitch 1 of Knack-a-Crack.
M Bagness, M Harris, 13th July 2004

Plasmadawn 23m E1 - Should Be in First Ascent list - Doesn't appear! Climbed by Paul C Bennett and R Barr, 2nd August 1994

ESKDALE
Hardknott Roadside Crag (Horse Howe Crag) (page 308)

This is the broken, south-facing, crag about 200 metres below the summit of Hardknot and about 30 to 50 metres from the road. It could be described as a lower right hand section of Hardknot Crag. It has one route in the 1996 FRCC guidebook called Alpha Beta (HS) - which is surprisingly worthwhile.

The routes described below tackle the short steep wall, and slab above, closest to the road just above the last/first hairpin bend of the road. They are described from left to right. For the arthritic who cannot walk but can climb these climbs are good sport in a super location (except on Bank Holidays!).

Hard Rib 30m V Diff
Start 4 metres right of the left edge of the crag, at a shallow chimney with a crack.
Climb this to the rib above. Follow this excellent rib to the large grass ledge.
Jim Cooper, Terry Kitching, Tom Walkington, 19th October 2003

Retirement Crack 15m HVS
(5b). Climb the thin crack line 2 metres right of Hard Rib. The start is strenuous but the protection is good. Hard Rib provides the finish.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 12th October 2003

Roadside Crack 15m E1
(5c). Tackle the thin crack line 1 metre right of Retirement Crack. This gives another strenuous start with good protection. Finish up Hard Rib.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 18th October 2003

Vee Crack 15M VS 5a.
Start from the top of the pinnacle, 4 metres right of Roadside Crack.
(5a). Step left into the niche and follow the crack finishing right. Finish up Hard Rib or Kennedy Primer.
Jim Cooper (not seconded), 12th October 2003

Kennedy Primer 25m Severe
Three to four metres right of the pinnacle is an overgrown gully/grove.
(4b). Climb the grove and crack in the left wall of this gully and step left onto the slab above. Follow slabs to the large grass ledge.
Jim Cooper, Tom Walkington, 18th October 2003

Alpha Beta 26m Hard Severe.
See guidebook. Some metres right of the above climbs, start at a block lying against a slab.

Gamma Delta 35m Hard Severe.
This route makes the best of the rock to the right.
1 25m. Start 10 metres right of Alpha Beta at a sharp topped boulder beneath discontinuous slabs. Climb the slabs by the line of least resistance to a steepening at 15 metres. This is climbed on the right to the large grass ledge above.
2 10m. Somewhere above is a rightward slanting rib. Follow it.
Jim Cooper, Terry Kitching, 19th October 2003

It's All Greek to Me 30m MVS.
This route attempts to make the best of the rock to the right of Gamma Delta. Start 10 metres right of Gamma Delta.
Climb slabs to the steep top wall. A belay on blocks is possible here. Climb the rib on the right of the wall with a bold move to finish on the right.
Terry Kitching, Jim Cooper, 19th October 2003

The following routes are also thought to be on this crag:

The Slapper's Daughter E5
On the far side of the crag (northwards-facing) up from the large boulders (possible potential for boulderers?). The route takes the 10 metre or so high overhanging quartz wall above the blocks on the ground. Bit too high for bouldering even with a few mats!
(6b). Follow a steep overhanging wall on small finger edges with small wire placements to a very rounded (crux) top out. Really sharp but excellent rock.
Andy Clough, Tom Walkington,

Slap Head goes Happy Slappin' E2 5c
(5c). The hanging groove just to the left of The Slapper's Daughter. Small wires protect. Crux low down, escape off left at the top.

Greener Grass 10m E2/E3?
(5c/6a?). About 7 metres right of Slap Head goes Happy Slappin', pull up into the small overhang and follow steep cracks to a reach out left for a jug near the top, then continue directly.
Andy Clough, Tom Walkington, 15th September 2007

ESKDALE
Castle Knott, Hardknott Pass (227 011)

Though small, this clean compact face of knobbly rock provides fine climbing of a bold nature. It is only seven minutes walk from the top of Hardknott Pass, has a sunny west-facing aspect and is ideal for an afternoon’s soloing. The crag lies above and south-east of Peat Hill Crag, effectively on the undulating ridge between Demming and Hardknott Crag and is easily visible from the latter. Park as for Hardknott Crag and follow the path south for 400m towards Demming Crag. On reaching a wooden gate along the left side of a fenced off bog, head west for 150m to the crag on the west side of a grassy knoll. Routes are described from left to right.

Maitai 12m S

Start at a rock scar 2m left of Hot Toddy. Climb the pleasant slab and bulbous arete above.

J.Daly (solo), 30th July 2000

Hot Toddy 12m E1

(5b). Start on a sloping break beneath a rock ledge at 5m. Climb directly to the ledge, step up left to a mini ledge/slot (possible wires to left), and pull back right onto the steep headwall to finish at its highest point.

J.Daly (solo), 30th July 2000

Daquirie 12m E2

(5c). Start just right of Hot Toddy. From a shallow depression climb up right to a short broken crack / flake (sideways nuts), continue straight up to finish in a V-nick just right of the top.

J.Daly (solo with trailrope), 30 July 2000

Rum Punch 11m E3

(6a). A great pitch starting off the blocks 3m right of Daquirie. Step awkwardly up left onto the fine knobbly wall and climb it direct passing the only gear (RP/Friend 0) in a horizontal crack at 4m.

J.Daly (solo with 1 poor in-situ runner for protection whilst passing), 30th July 2000

Black Russian 10m HVS

(5a). Start off the same blocks as Rum Punch. Climb the prominent impending diagonal crack up rightwards.

J.Daly (solo), 30th July 2000

Ginjina 8m VS

(4c). Start 3m further right. Climb the right side of the short steep wall using broken cracks on the right.

J.Daly (solo), 30th July 2000

Saki 7m S

The obvious left-facing corner.

J.Daly (solo), 30th July 2000

ESKDALE
Horse How Crags (224 008)

This crag is situated about 1/2 mile north of Demming Crag. From the summit of Hard Knot Pass, walk south as for the approach to Demming Crag.

The crag consists of several sections in an arc which faces from the north round to the west. The rock is generally of good quality.

The climbs are described from left to right.

Gollum 28m E1
Ten metres left of the lowest point of the main north-facing slabs is a steep wall. This route follows the vertical cracks near the right end of the wall.
1 12m (5a) Climb the lower crack, then walk left along the grass ledge to below the upper crack.
2 16m (5c).Climb the steep crack, then continue up the slabs on the left to a belay.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 1st May 2004

Gollum Right Arete 35m VS
1 15m. Start left of Slab and Groove and climb up leftwards up slabs to belay beneath the arete.
2 20m (4b). Climb the arete on its right side, then continue up slabs to belay.
Jim Cooper, Tom Walkington, 25th June 2004

Slab and Groove 30m VD
Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress, at an embedded rectangular block.
Step off the block on to the steep slab and up to a large block. Climb up directly behind the block to a rightward-slanting groove and short wall to the top.
Jim Cooper, Ann Mason, Barry Rogers, 1st May 2004

Hardfort Cracks 30m VS
Start 2 metres right of Slab and Groove.
(4b). Climb the obvious stepped crack to a large ledge. Scramble up to the continuation crack, which is followed to the top.
Jim Cooper, Barry Rogers, 1st May 2004

Bazanna 30m MS
Start 3 metres right of Hardfort Cracks at another obvious crackline.
1 18m. Climb the obvious crackline to a large grass ledge. Climb a short crack on the right into a corner.
2 12m. Climb the corner by a high step onto another ledge. Climb the groove above, then a short slab to the top.
Barry Rogers, Ann Mason, 23rd May 2004

To the right of the slabs is a grassy gully and then the crag to the right is split into two tiers by a wide grass ledge.

Lower Tier

Slab and Corner 10m HD
Starts just right of the wide gully and left of a pile of stones at the lowest point of the buttress.
Climb the slab into the corner, then climb the corner exiting to the right. Continue up easy slabs to the top.
Barry Rogers, Ann Mason, 31st May 2004

Upper Tier (Hidden Crag)

Amy Kate 10m D
Start 4 metres to the left of the prominent sharp topped boulder.
Climb a one metre. wide slab, then continue up the bulge above via a crack with a chockstone.
Ann Mason, Barry Rogers 8th August 2004

Umbria 10m VS
Start at the sharp topped boulder.
(4c). Climb the overhanging corner to a good ledge. Climb straight up the thin crack and then the bulging wall on the left to a fine finishing hold. Continue easily up to belays.
Barry Rogers, Ann Mason, 30th May 2004

Cracked Slab Hard Severe 8m.
Start 3 metres to the right of Umbria.
Climb the crack up the middle of the slab.
Barry Rogers, Ann Mason, 30th May 2004

The wide grass ledge becomes narrower to the right and almost disappears as the crag turns to face west. The next climb starts to the right of the narrowest point at another grass ledge, below a dirty corner.

Caesar 15m S
Gain the slab after an awkward start and continue up right to a crack, which is followed straight up to a grass ledge. The pinnacle above is climbed to the top.
Jim Cooper, Tom Walkington, 25th June 2004

Nero's Nose 15m E3
The overhanging arete between Caesar and Titus.
(6a). Climb the arete directly and finish more easily up the corner above.
Tom Walkington (unseconded), 25th June 2004

Titus 15m E2
Start 2 metres right of Nero's Nose below a clean corner.
(5b). The corner is climbed directly, passing two overhangs in its upper section.
Tom Walkington (unseconded), 23rd May 2004

Caligula 15m HVS
Start 2 metres right of Titus.
(5a). Follow the right-slanting crackline, which becomes a groove higher up.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 31st May 2004

Augustus 17m E1
The arete right of Caligula.
(5b). Start by steep climbing just left of the arete. Step right above a bulge to gain the arete, which is followed to join the finishing groove of Caligula.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 31st May 2004

Maximus 17m HVS
Start 4 metres right of Augustus.
(5a).Climb the line of corners to the right of the peapod-shaped corner. Exit left.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 12th June 2004

Claudius 17m E1
Start as for Maximus.
(5b). Climb the shallow corners one metre right of Maximus, with the crux being the top shallow corner. Exit right.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 12th June 2004

Commodius 18m E2
Start 3 metres right of Claudius beneath a steep rib.
(5b).Climb an initial steep wall to the rib. Climb the rib easily for 3 metres, then traverse left (jugs) to beneath a thin crack in the centre of the wall. Gain and climb the crack (crux). Climb up into a niche and exit right at its top.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 12th June 2004

Corrie 40m VS
To the right of Commodius the grass ledge ends and the crag becomes a buttress of continuous rock, which this climb takes.
1 18m (4c). From the foot of the buttress, climb directly up walls and grooves (crux takes a blank wall at about 10 metres) to a ledge beneath an overhanging nose.
2 22m (4a). Climb the groove just left of the nose, then up rightwards via a corner and slab. Scramble up to a block belay.
Nick Evans, Tom Walkington, 2nd May 2004

Hadrian 40m VD
1 18m. Start as for Corrie and climb up to the right of that route to the grass ledge.
2 22m. Climb the grassy gully and rib up to the right.
Jim Cooper, Nick Smith, 31st May 2005

The next route starts 30m to the right of Corrie.

Two Tiers 30m VS
Start 2 metres left of the right arete of the lower tier.
1 10m (4a). Climb the stepped crackline to the large bilberry ledge.
2 20m (4b). Start 3 metres left of the right end of the bilberry ledge and make an initial steep move up to footholds. Traverse left, then climb up leftwards for 6 metres, then up rightwards for 5 metres. Climb up the slab just left of a corner to finish.
Tom Walkington, Nick Smith, Jim Cooper, 31st May 2005

Eighty metres tTo the right is an isolated small overhanging buttress, which has a large boulder on its left side.

Veni Vidi Vici 10m E1
Start on the slab, one metre right of the large boulder.
(5b).Climb up rightwards, then left at the top.
John Bennetts, Tom Walkington, 27th May 2005

To the right, near the centre of the overhanging wall are two obvious cracklines.

The Romans 10m HVS
(5b).The left-hand crack is climbed up to a ramp. Climb leftwards up the ramp passing a thin crack and finish up a groove above.
Tom Walkington (unseconded), 14th May 2005

Rome 10m VS
(4c). The righthand crack is followed throughout.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 14th May 2005

The Layback 10m HVS
Four metres right of Rome is a rib with a short layback corner up to its right.
(5a).Gain the layback from the right. With hands at the top of the layback, move right for 2 metres, then up ledges to the top.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 14th May 2005

ESKDALE
Demming Crag (p308)

Immediately right of the descent gully on the right of the crag is a small clean buttress. The routes are described from right to left.

Made of Stone 14 m MS

Start directly below the overhang. Climb the wall and move left below the roof to climb the blunt rib on its left.

W Wilson (solo), 3rd May 1997

Four metres to the right is a steep clean wall split by three crack lines.

Like Father Like Son 13 m MVS

The wide left hand cleaned crack.

J Kay, D Kay, M Lynch, C Gilligan, 3rd May 1997

Thin Lizzy 13m HVS

(5a). Climb the vague crackline between the last route and the central crack. A little contrived but good climbing.

C Gilligan, J Kay, 3rd May 1997

The Main Crag

Bakers Dozen 13m VS

(4c). The central crack. A good route.

M Lynch, D Kay, 3rd May 1997

Close to the Madding Crowd 8m VS

(4c). The short right hand crack leads to a tricky finish.

D Kay, M Lynch, 3rd May 1997

Fifty metres right past a superb bouldering wall is another wall identified by a huge detached flake with a small pinnacle to its right.

Unlucky for Some 18 m VS

(4c). Up the crack to the right of the big flake and then over some detached flakes (with care!!). Straight up the wall above.

M Lynch, D Kay, 3rd May 1997

Away From it All 17 m VS

Starts 5 metres right of the pinnacle.

(4c). Pull onto the grassy ledge then climb the clean corner pulling out left at the top. Straight up the wall above.

M Lynch, D Kay, James Kay, 3rd May 1997

ESKDALE
Gate Crag (315)

The Sassanach Direct E6 **
The original line has been straightened out. A good route and well worth doing.
(6b). Ascend the obvious ramp, reach an undercut in an overlap (two Friend 00's) and move right to a jug on the lip. Climb a groove on layaways to a small undercut (6b) and reach the flake (as on the original way. Gear is poor in the flake but there is a bombproof Rock 2 above in a horizontal break). Reach/slap left to pinch, and finish more easily up a rib on jugs.
Andy Mitchell, Steve Hubbard, 17th September 2003
Cleaned, top roped and then led. The original route was by I Turnbull, 1989.

ESKDALE
Brantrake Crag (p325)

Lower Crag

Nail File Direct Start HVS
Start 3 metres right of Diagonal Route.
(5b). Climb the thin crack up the centre of the subsidiary slab.
Tom Walkington, Nick Evans, 20th April 2003

Cuckoo Pillar 15m VS
This is the pillar front between Diagonal Route and Lingbeck Chimney.
(4c). Start in a corner at the base of the pillar and gain a ledge to the left. Step right to climb up the front of the pillar.
Tom Walkington, Peter Walkington, 1st May 2003

Lingbeck Pillar 15m HVS
This is the pillar front just right of Lingbeck Chimney.
(4c). Start in a corner and gain a shelf at 2 metres. Continue up to the left. Climb straight up to a ledge on the edge. Move right onto the pillar front, then up to the top passing blocks in the upper section.
Tom Walkington, Nick Evans, 20th April 2003

Main Crag

Brothers in Arms is completely overgrown.

Thirty metres to the left of the Main Wall the crag turns to face north. The following two routes follow crack lines up this part of the crag.

Dinner Ladies' Deadline 17m VS
This follows a crack system up the centre of the wall with a bulge at half height.
(4c). Start at the crack line beneath the bulge. Follow the crack line over the bulge to a ledge (blocks). Climb up to the arête, step right then back left to finish up the arête.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, A (Faz) Faraday, 27th Sept 2003

Barton's Debut 20m MVS
Start 3 metres down to the right of Diner Ladies' Deadline at some blocks.
(4b). Make some awkward moves to gain the ledge on the arête up to the right. Continue up the crack line to a ledge at 7 metres. Step right then climb up the crack line with a move right near the top.
Tom Walkington, Bryony White, Paul Barton, Jim Cooper, A (Faz) Faraday, 27th Sept 2003

Immediately right of the Main Wall is a steep gully with a small slab on the right.

Slim Jim 9m MVS
(4b). Start in the centre of the slab 4 metres right of the gully. Step up onto the slab and climb to the left edge at about 4 metres. Follow the left edge to the top.
Jim Cooper, Tom Walkington, A (Faz) Faraday, 27th Sept 2003

Upper Crag

Closed Season 18m VS
(4c). Obvious line right of Open Groove.
M Lynch, D Kay, J Lynch, 30th July 2000

Open Secret 18m VD
A cleaned line left of Block & Tackle.
M Lynch, D Kay, J Lynch, 30th July 2000

A couple of insignificant new (?) lines at the Upper Crag at Brantrake, Eskdale.
The relationship, if any, to a route named Open Secret recorded by M. Lynch on 30/7/00 is unclear.

(Best) Forgotten Groove VD
Three metres left of Block & Tackle, a prominent right-slanting V-groove starts about 2 metres up. A tricky start leads into the groove which is followed easily to the top.
Roger Wilkinson, Graham Phillips, 21st June 2003

The Rib VS
Start as for (Best) Forgotten Groove.
(4b). Climb to the bottom of the groove and step left on to the steep wall. Climb the wall trending left to finish up the slabby left side of the blunt rib, avoiding the wide dirty crack.
Graham Phillips, Roger Wilkinson, June 21 2003

The next two routes appear to clash with that by Phillips and Wilkinson 21/6/03 and by Lynch 30/7/03.

Open Groove Direct Start VS
(5a.)This enters the groove directly via the steep corner.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, A (Faz) Faraday, 24th Aug 2003

Opportune Rib HVS
This follows crack lines in the rib between Open Rib and Block and Tackle.
(5b). Start up the short wall straight over the bulge (crux). Holds on Block and Tackle are not allowed.
Tom Walkington, Chris Ella, 13th Sept 2003

SR and CK have sorted out the various new routes claimed above taking the area between Open Groove and Block and Tackle, and the following is probably the best description for this Buttress.

Open Groove VD
Start just left of the blunt arête on the left side of the clean part of the buttress.
Climb up rightward to a slot, then climb the shallow groove above. The slot can be gained directly via a short right-facing groove (VS 5a, 2003), but this is rather contrived.
Direct start: Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, A (Faz) Faraday, 24th August 2003

Closed Season S 2000
Start just right of the blunt arête.
Climb up into the base of the green right-slanting groove of Open Secret and then traverse up left to finish up cracks in the arête. The arête can be gained direct without use of holds on adjoining routes but only if you tie your elbows to your sides (HVS 5b, 2003).
M Lynch, D Kay, J Lynch, 30th July 2000
Direct Start: Tom Walkington, Chris Ella, 13th September 2003

Open Secret MS 2000
The green right-slanting groove just right of the arête joins Block and Tackle towards the top.
M Lynch, D Kay, J Lynch, 30th July 2000

The next two routes utilise the huge block just to the right.

Block and Tackle Left-Hand VD
Climb the left side of the block, then straight up the juggy wall above.

Block and Tackle Right-Hand VD
Climb the right side of the block, then follow a line of short grooves.

Face Route HVS
(5a). Start just right of the block, and climb the face direct. It all gets rather artificial near the top. The blank Right-Hand Start is E1 (5c).

The next routes all climb the low wall on the right to the Big Ledge.

Terrace Crack VD
The crack just to the right leads to the left end of Big Ledge. Continue up the corner groove, or climb the blunt arête to its left.

Slim Line Tonic VS 2005
A pleasant eliminate.
(4c). Climb directly up the wall in between Terrace Crack and The Middle Way to Big Ledge. Continue in the same line, moving right near the top.
SJH Reid, C King, 6th October 2005

The Middle Way S
The crack in the centre of the wall leads to the middle of Big Ledge. Take the central crack above.

Dog Leg Crack VD
The crack towards the right side of the wall leads to Big Ledge. Finish more easily up the right side of the wall above.

Edge Hog D
Climb the right edge of the wall to Big Ledge and then finish as for Dog Leg Crack.

Upper Crag Girdle 30m MVS 2005
Enjoyable climbing throughout.
1 15m (4b). Follow Open Groove for 5 metres to stand on a large spike runner on the right of the slot, and then traverse rightwards into the green groove of Closed Season. Continue traversing rightwards across the wall to belay at the left end of the Big Ledge.
2 15m (4b). Climb 3 metres up the upper groove of Terrace Crack, and then traverse rightwards across the wall to its right arête. Step down round this onto an undercut mossy slab, traverse right under a heather cornice, and finish via the right arête.
SJH Reid, C King (AL), 6th October 2005

While on the subject of Brantrake, there are a number of grading anomalies which could be ironed out for the next edition:
Lower Crag:
The Crack gets nowhere near 5a - 4b is nearer the mark.
Main Wall:
RH Crack wants two stars
Central Crack wants two stars
Red Hour - The slab start is worth E1 5b – very thin, sustained, and poorly protected. The rest of it is VS 4b (though not too well protected). It would be sensible to describe the route as follows:
VS 4b Start as for Left Edge. On reaching the big ledge, step left for 2(?) metres and climb the slabs etc etc.
Direct Start E1 5b Climb the face left of the gully foot to the ledge.
Upper Crag:
Face Route is only VS 4c. Much easier than Central Crack and plenty of pro. (RW)

ESKDALE
Great Bank (p333)

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Area D Ten Weeks to Go 17m E5 ** A good route on excellent clean rock. Soft for that grade. Climbs the obvious nose via the roof and groove. Start beneath a long fin to the left of the ivy. (6b). Climb the fin followed by the left hand side of the roof to gain a large jug by a peg. Move up the groove with difficulty to an excellent wire placement, followed by the thin cracks and grooves, keeping to the left. Will Sim (unseconded), 8th April 2008 Top-roped prior to leading. Will notes that the relatively new deer fences can easily be walked around with a detour of about 200 metres further along the forestry track on either side. This isn't obvious and the fence wire is already broken in a few places, (not sure whether this is climbers or not?). Below: Will Sims on the first ascent of Ten Weeks to Go (E5). Photo: John Eccles.