Back to New Routes Index

Last Updated: 1/3/08

	LANGDALE Raven Crag, Walthwaite to White Crag (pages 37 - 164) Page numbers refer to the FRCC Guide: Langdale (1999)
		FELL and ROCK CLIMBING CLUB of the English Lake District

A Plea for Photographs

Photos of crags in good light in summer are needed for the next edition of this guide. Please contact the FRCC Guidebook Photographs Editor if you think you have any such photos (in any format). Needless to say any good action photos would also be well received - for these we need to know: crag, route, grade, pitch, name of climber, name of photographer. You don't get paid I'm afraid, but you will get a free guidebook if we use any of your pictures!

LANGDALE
Raven Crag, Walthwaite (p 37)

Warning! A MAJOR ROCKFALL in the area of of Walthwaite Crack (Yosemite Crack) took place ca 30th Dec 2006. From Colyn Earnshaw (Lakes BMC): The major rockfall, possibly around 100 tons of rock has removed Walthwaite Crack (aka Yosemite Crack) VS and cleared a large area to the adjoining climb, Cliff at Christmas HVS, on the right. The new area on the crag is still very unstable, with some 'blocks' still waiting to come down. Whether there will be further falls here is a matter for conjecture, but, having looked at the 'scar and the area, it seems likely.

The area at the base of the crag below the scar, and to the wall some distance below is 'trashed'. Climbers should be aware of the situation and take what they see as appropriate action.

A notice warning climbers of the situation is in preparation and will be placed in the region of the gate at the road access asap.

The photo above shows the approximate area of the rockfall, and some of the debris under the crag, while that below shows how one boulder almost made the road.

The photos were kindly supplied by Dave Bodecott who adds "Had a look at the rockfall today. It's done a great job of clearing trees from the half way ledge. Walthwaite Crack external portion all gone, just like Parallel B. The biggest blocks went the furthest and landed in the field after taking out a good section of wall. All the rest of the stuff is fairly small plus soil and tree debris. Conservatively, maybe 25 x 4 x 4 feet of rock has fallen, which equates to ca. 30 tonnes at 2.8 grammes per cc. density. Upside 30 x 5 x 5 feet which gives about 60 tonnes. In view of the fact that the boulder was not too far from reaching the road, and the path was well peppered, the remaining poised blocks could do as much, if not more, damage if they decide to fall. It looks like the rockfall was precipitated by expanding tree roots possibly from the holly at the cragtop. There is also a suggestion that it may have been triggered by an earthquake centred on the Dumfries area on 26th December.

Jim Loxham (National Trust) adds: "It is a serious rock fall in the context of the overall size of the crag; 100 tonnes plus, possible more.  The pic's illustrate the location on the crag and the range and damage of the rock fall. Safety notices have been posted on approaches via the public Right of Way, on the gate by the road and on the side of the path coming off the fell.  The R of W passes directly under the line of the massive rock fall.  In all probability there are still areas of loose material still to fall from the crag (some large and some smaller debris). A direct approach for climbers is not to be recommended, as most of the approach path is in the direct firing line of any more material coming off the crag.  Ironically the routes to either side of the rock fall are not affected in any way as far as one can tell, it is the approach to the crag that will need care. On my visit last week I noted that by following the existing approach path for climbers for some 30m and then bearing sharp left at small rocky outcrop and then traversing the hill side to another prominent rocky knoll, before traversing back right, the danger zone can be avoided when wanting to climb routes to the left of the rock fall (facing crag). For the routes to the right of the rock fall, the gauntlet would have to be run, as quickly as is possible along the public foot path passing under the danger zone, gaining height, before traversing back left to gain the right hand side of the crag. Alternatively, by using the first approach, you could climb a route on the left hand side (facing in) and descend to the left (facing out) to gain the right hand side of the crag (facing in)."

The metal stake concreted into the ground on the flat area above the main buttress was removed by the National Trust in August 2000. Belays are much further back, as before.

Enterprize: A note has been received from Dave Wright to the effect that this climb was first recorded as Bollocks Arete by himself and Malcolm Copley in September 1965. He states he added a direct start (solo) in 1993. If possible in future editions of the Langdale guide he would like it to be renamed Beallucas Arete. Enterprize - easy for the grade MVS 4b? (Roger Wilkinson)

Hardup Wall - very easy for VS, though admittedly poor gear. Hard severe 4a? (Roger Wilkinson)

Ewborn 22m HVS/E1

Start 3 metres right of Route 1.

Follow reachy fingerjugs to mantleshelf onto a ledge. Gain the arete and continue with reaches for a good pocket/ledge and then a similar ledge above. Move right via a small hold to the base of an apparently blank wall. Stand on a large foothold and use small edges to gain a large handhold. Work feet up and rock/mantle for a sloping ledge. Follow a line of jugs on the arete to the top. (Big jugs to left of crux are not on route).

David Browne, 16th February 1999

A direct line up the arete at VS/HVS and was also done the same day but this seems likely to be Enterprize (HVS, 1991).

Cliff at Christmas: SR comments "couldn't work this out at all - seemed a complete non-route".

Route 66 40m HVS **

This route with its variation finish is in the recessed area between the upper parts of Cliff at Christmas and Alfresco. Start just left of the toe of the crag left of Route 2.

1 10m (4b). Climb the crack in the wall to join Route 2 at the belay ledge.

2 30m (4c). Climb the poorly protected wall just left of pitch 2 of Route 2, trend leftwards and then straight up to saplings and a block runner and some welcome gear at about 10 metres. Go left for about 3 metres into the recess. Make a high step onto ledges on the left. Climb back right via an undercut crack into the groove leading to the top. Climb the groove first by holds on the left wall and then by the slab on the right.

Jim Cooper, Tom Walkington, 15^th April 2000

Variation: Route 66 Left Hand Finish E2

2a (5c). From the undercut horizontal crack on pitch 2 of Route 66, climb leftwards for 2 metres to gain a steep leaning groove. Follow this to the top.

Tom Walkington, Mick Johnson, 16^th April 2000

The block at the start of pitch 2 of Route 2 (just above the little tree) has become very loose. Take care, in particlular not to picnic below the route if someone is on it (RW).

Deuterus Direct Finish HVS

5a/b. Excellent direct way up, better than the cop-out finish described, and not in the guide. After the crux groove, continue easily up to the overhang and pull directly over at the right side on big holds with excellent gear. Very photogenic, superb.

Dave Bodecott, Colwyn Jones, 15th April 2000

May have been done before.
Repeated by Chris King and Stephen Reid: it gives an excellent exciting finish, with the grade about as they suggest (HVS 5a/b). However the start of the main pitch of Deuterus is very serious with some technical and strenous moves, no gear, and a nasty landing. Possibly worth E2 5b?

Two of Us 40m E2

1 10m. As for the first pitch of Deuterus.

2 30m (5c). Gain the undercut slab between Route 2 and Deuterus with difficulty and climb it to join Route 2 at the end of its traverse. Climb the wall just right of the V-groove above, step right to layaways, then lurch right again to finish direct through the small roof where Deuterus starts traversing rightwards. A bit eliminate but worthwhile.

Graham Iles, Jenny Tweedy, 22^nd July 2001

Climbed on sight - needs some cleaning!

The following routes have been discovered, partly as a result of removing the offending holly branch at the top of Walthwaite Gully, which blocked/spoiled the finish to that route.  I am further informed that the offending falling branch also took off an area of bramble which uncovered a new area of rock.  With the exception of Demeter, all of the following climbs may suffer from wet starts, as was the case of the weekend of the first ascents and while this detracts from the initial climbing all the routes are possible despite the oft wet starts and provide a worthwhile addition to the selection of routes on Raven Crag Walthwaite.

Demeter 27m HVS    
Starts one metre right of Walthwaite Gully, to the left of an obvious large groove and provides steep enjoyable climbing with adequate protection.
(5a). Follow the line of the groove, mainly by the left bounding wall and its left arête, to finish to the right of the holly tree.
Martin Scrowston, Mike Hope, 8th November 2007

Phorcys 27m E1      
A harder companion route to Demeter, direct and on good rock, with adequate protection.  Start directly behind a small Hawthorn, 3 mtres right of Walthwaite Gully.
(5a/5b). Climb the wall to the right of the dirty groove to the overhang; pull through this direct via an obvious square topped spike.  Easier climbing then follows keeping immediately to the right of the groove-line of Demeter.
Martin Scrowston, Mike Hope, 8th November 2007

River Boat Gambler Direct 25m VS    4c      
Good and well protected direct climbing up the wall to the left of River Boat Gambler upper groove.  Start as for River Boat Gambler.
(4c). Climb direct up the wall, via a bulge and following a vague crack line (seen from below) and passing a suspect flake to its right side.
Martin Scrowston, Jim Loxham, 9th November 2007

Riverboat Gambler: Top is very hard and poorly protected (unless I missed something)  Should be HVS 4c?  The same day I did 4 HVS routes on the same crag but found this much harder. (Ken Daykin)

De-Tritus 25m VS        
Much better than it looks and should improve, though the start is often wet.  The route follows the obvious large groove contained in the upper part of the crag.  Start below the groove, 3 metres right of River Boat Gambler.
(4c/5a). Climb the oft wet wall past a small sapling, keeping a downward tongue of vegetation on your left.  Move up and left into the groove, which is followed to the top and is not without interest on the final section.
Martin Scrowston, Jim Loxham, 9th November 2007

Militant Tendency - The indirect version of this route is probably just OK at HVS, though the gear is rubbish, but the direct version involves top end 5a moves over a bulge 2 or 3 metres above a large nut behind a very hollow-sounding small block with the few other bits of poor gear being even worse. Should be E1 5a with a government health warning, and no star! (SR)

LANGDALE
Spedding Crag (325057)

This broken crag lies just up and right of Raven Crag Walthwaite, but doesn’t really warrant the extra effort required to reach it.

Raven’s Nest Rib 20m HVS
Not a bad pitch, and well protected, but some loose blocks give it a serious feel. Start at the right-hand side of the crag below a clean curving arête.
(4c). Gain the arête, and follow it until level with a huge raven’s nest on a ledge on the right. Pull up leftwards with difficulty and climb the fine slab/arête, avoiding the poised blocks if you can. Finish up the arête.
Stephen Reid, Chris King, 21st April 2005

Gashed Anorak 20m VS
Rather too vegetated for enjoyment. Start as for Raven’s Nest Rib.
Climb up the arête a short way, until a traverse left through shrubbery can be made to step onto a hanging ledge on the left. Climb a steep crack above to another ledge, and finish up the heathery crack and V-groove on the left.
Chris King, Stephen Reid, 21st April 2005

LANGDALE
Flagstone Quarry

This is the little quarry on route to Thrang Quarry, Langdale. Take first track on the right after the gate on the Thrang track. Cross a stream and grassy level and take a left into a secluded, rather dark quarry with a vegetated floor. Five minutes from Chapel Stile.

Revival 20m XS
(6a/b). Start in the centre of the wall and work diagonally on easy ground to a fin of rock below a 12 inch bore hole and thread this (top tip: take a threading stick or wire). Move back left and up on powerful moves to a big jug at two-thirds height, take a deep breath and finish right to the top (sky hook protects the top moves).Hard climbing with dubious protection.
Mark Thomas, 21st June 2002
Repeated 28/02/03, grade E5 6b. A very good route, bold with excellent climbing on solid rock. Worth **. Bring threading stick and skyhooks! (DF).

LANGDALE
Thrang Crag (p 45)

Thesis 16m E3*

(6b). The line takes the right hand prow of the crag passing the in-situ rusty peg (original - according to the Langdale guide, 'No possible ascent has been recorded'.) at half height. This can be backed up with two very small and insignificant RP's. A direct line to the top gives interesting and dynamic moves at 6b and 6c, which ease towards the top. Due to the condition and doubtful nature of the protection the grade was felt to be E6/E7 6c.

Mark Thomas, Christian Badcock, 16th March 2000

Originally graded E6/7 (6c). Since repeated by Stuart Wood and David Noddings and down-graded to E3, 6b. Thought to be worth one star. They thought a better description would be: From mossy ledge on right rockover onto the sloping ledge (2 RPs and good peg above head), dyno for big jug (crux) and move easily to the top. Dave Farquar wrote to say that Thesis felt "more serious than E3. Thought to be E5 6b for on-sight lead, due to dubious condition of peg." However, this view was disputed by Stuart Wood who said "The peg can be backed up with a micro wire. There's harder E3s in the valley. What E5s are you comparing it with???", and his view was supported by Martin Panton.

LANGDALE
Middle Scout Crag (p49)

Geldard's Girdle/Top of the Pops 35m E6/7

The Lakeland route that has it all, a wet chimney, technical wall climbing, loose holds, bad pegs (oh - yeah, all lakeland routes have them), good cams, jamming crack and pumpy undercuts. No stars, it's a bag of sh*t. Pumpy, and as bold for a second as a leader

(6b). Go up the wet chimney at the left end of the crag and then break out right about two thirds up across Bob Dylan (hard section). Move down  about 1 metre, then go right across the traverse of Beatles (one of the holds on this traverse is extremely loose), reach down and clip the peg then reverse the crux of Beatles to a hold just right of the flake. Continue moving right then make a move up into the crack of Elvis (cams here). Reverse the vertical crack to get to the flaky undercuts. Stuff cams wildly under these at every available opportunity, making sure you take up all the good hand-holds. Keep going around the arete, past a bit of easier ground, then up and right to finish.

Jack Geldard (unseconded), 21^st April 2002
Although the route was done 'on-sight', I have done most of the 'up' routes at the crag before so previous knowledge was with me.

LANGDALE
White Ghyll (p 54)

Roger Wilkinson suggests: Heather Groove: now so fully lives up to its name as to be virtually unclimbable. Delete from guidebook! Instead, suggest its start (steep pull round a flake) be described as an alternative start to Ethics of War, making an excellent VS+. That slab is delectable despite its brevity!

Health Warning: torrential rain at some time (recently?) has made the first part of the descent route between Upper and Lower White Ghyll (the bit before the "hump") very unstable. Serious danger of blocks being knocked down into the gill. Fortunately, not much climbing below, but I'd think twice before doing Hollin Groove if there's anyone else on the crag. Come to think of it, think twice before doing Hollin Groove anyway.

Clam Jouster 17m E2

(5c) Make a low rightwards traverse from the foot of Rope Not passing a gear slot. Pull into a very shallow scoop and climb up just left of the arete. Starting direct is 6a.

Dan Duxbury, Martin Bagness, 4^th April 2002

Al Evans has written to say that there are mistakes in the 1999 guide historical section concerning:-

White Ghyll Eliminate: This was initially climbed with a rest on a nut for cleaning (9^th May 1971), then cleaned by abseil and climbed free by Al Evans and Graham Millar (10^th May 1971).

The Rampant Finish: Only one point of aid was used, not two.

Titter Ye Not 35m HVS *
A line between The Slabs, Route 1 and Forget-Me-Not on the slab at the top left-hand end of the crag.
1 40m (5a). Start 2 metres right of The Slabs, Route 1 below an obvious downward-pointing flake at 12 metres. Climb straight up to the flake and pull over it, and the bulge above, on its right-hand side. Continue straight up to the spike belay on Forget-Me-Not (optional belay). Passing the spike go up the slight leftwards-facing groove above the spike and belay on the grass ledge above.
2 20m (4b?). Climb the obvious rib above the ledge to the top.
Chris Polden, Andy Lole (alt), 15th May 2004

LANGDALE
Stickle Barn Crag (p 80)

The following comments are from Roger Wilkinson:

A very steep crag with sustained climbing. (Incidentally, the quality of the routes here is better than the stars suggest.) I feel that the routes have been graded on length! We visited this crag in the same

week as Walthwaite and East Raven, where we did Protus and The Chopper, both

found correctly graded. The contrast with Stickle Barn is huge.

Heather Groove should be VS 4b, maybe even 4c. The climbing is sustained and the last ten feet or so, especially the finish, is middle grade VS.

Main Wall Scoop. I found this harder than anything on Protus or The Chopper. Even allowing for personal differences in climbing preference, this is a major sandbag. The crux moves are on very steep rock with no reasonable footholds. Route also sustained and protection on crux is not totally

reassuring. HVS 4c or 5a. Good route though, * or **.

Main Wall Crack. VS 4b doesn’t do this route justice. Again, very steep and sustained. The crux moves at half height are well above good gear, and just above a doubtful cam and for anyone short will be about 5b. No change out of 4c+ for the tall. HVS 4c for the tall - at least as hard as Protus. Quality route though - every move a winner, and fantastic rock. Despite its brevity, it's worth ***. Description should mention following cracks leftwards near the top.

Matt Balmer adds: Recently visited the crag and found the grading to be a little tough. Thought Heather Groove would be better graded at VS 4b. Main Wall Crack is worth three stars and VS 4c would be a little better to describe the climb.

LANGDALE
Tarn Crag (p 83)

Tarn Crag

Tarntasia 16m MVS 2007
Start 4 metres up and left of Tarnation.
(4b). Follow the "blank" slab to a big ledge below the left-hand prow. Make a move up the wall one metre left of the prow before traversing right to a ledge on the crest. Follow this pleasantly to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 6th Oct 2007

Tarnation 18m HS 2007
Forty metres to the left of West Buttress a pleasant crinkly rib nestles beneath two undercut prows.
1 9m. After overcoming an initial steepening climb the crinkly rib to a belay below a groove.
2 9m. Traverse diagonally right to gain the knife-edged right-hand prow and follow this to block belays at the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 6th Oct 2007

Upper Tarn Crag
This crag lies just above and 150m or so left of the top of Tarn Crag and is easily seen from the top of the Pavey Ark path. It has a distinctive triangular slab as a second tier. The crag has a grassy bay with a nice 15m arete forming its left edge.

Vulgaris Rib 15m VD.
The left atete of the grassy bay - start from the lowest rocks of the arete.
Alistair McCaig, Paul Brown, 3rd September 2003

Heather Slab12m D
The central slab sprouting several good clumps of heather.
Paul Brown, Alistair McCaig, 3rd September 2003

Calluna Corner 15m S
The best route is by far. Takes a hanging corner just right of the Central Slab, finishing by a V-groove. A very nice line.
Alistair McCaig, Paul Brown, 3rd September 2003

Red Heather 7m MVS
The triangular slab above has a groove leading to a thin crack which runs from left to right up the top slab.
(4b). Climb up onto a grassy ledge then move out to the right onto the slab to follow the thin crack from left to right to the top
Alistair McCaig, Paul Brown, 3rd September 2003

However TL notes: "Visited this minor piece of rock while scrambling in the rain, did two routes (rib on left-hand side of crag and slab in middle; both felt about Diff). To paraphrase past guidebook writers "best left for those with an exploratory bent to dicover for themselves". If all crags of this magnitude were recorded the guides would weigh a ton!"

LANGDALE
Pavey Ark (p 85)

Climbs below Jack’s Rake

A Wandering Star 95m E1
Follows a completely daft line.
1 35m (5b). Follow Arcturus pitch 1 to the wire slot above the peg. Step down 3 metres and traverse left, crossing Capella at its short traverse. Continue across Alphekka, then round a broad mossy dome to belay at the top of a heather-filled bay in the middle of nowhere.
2 30m (4b). Head left along ledges of unfrozen turf to a belay on Crescent Slabs (possible crux).
3 30m (5b). The main pitch of Venus.
Martin Bagness, Steve Ashworth, 22nd April 2005

Alphekka 35m E1/2
(5b). Takes a line left of Capella. Climb through the bulge from a pinnacle just left of the tree. Then follow the cleaned crack to join Capella below its final bulge and finish up this. Abseil off the holly or continue to Jack's Rake.
M Bagness, B Rope (backrope?), 10th September 2003
Repeated but with independent(ish) finish to the pitch, up mossy ribs just left of steep bit of Capella to reach holly belay.
Martin Bagness, Ian Almond, Si Keenor, 10th May 2005

Venus 30m E1- *
Enjoyable slab climbing up a blue/black water-washed streak. Follow Crescent Slabs to the second belay on a flake spike several metres below the block on pitch 3.
(5b). Climb up right to a jammed flake below the barrier. Use this to step left through the barrier then follow faint cracks through the next bulge. Keep on up the blueish streak to the right end of the Crescent Climb traverse - easier but run-out.
Martin Bagness, Steve Ashworth, 22nd April 2005

Mars 55m E3-***
Enjoyable climbing, mostly slabby, up a band of superb reddish rock. This is at the extreme right-hand edge of the clean slabs, right of the blue band of Venus, which is several metres right of Crescent Slabs.
Start 3 metres left of Crescent Slabs. The first pitch is often wet, in which case the first two pitches of Crescent Slabs can be climbed instead.
1 25m (5a). Climb through an initial bulge to cross the Crescent Slabs traverse, then straight up a black wall to the right of Crescent Slabs groove (good edges and pockets but sketchy gear - an E1 pitch). Trend left between turf bulges to a belay flake (the same belay as the second belay of Crescent Slabs, 4 metres below the block at the crux bulge on Crescent Slabs pitch 3).
2 30m (5c). Climb up and right to the jammed flake below the barrier (as for Venus). Step right a couple of metres into a rock scar, then pull straight up bulging rock for 5 metres to a good horizontal Friend slot (dirty flake crack on right also gives good gear if you can reach it). Keep straight on up the clean rock, which gradually eases but is run-out, to belay at the right end of the Crescent Climb traverse.
P1 Martin Bagness, Steve Ashworth, 15th May 2005
P2 Martin Bagness, Ian Almond, Si Keenor, 10th May 2005

Climbs above Jack’s Rake

Luminous Arete 15m E1
(5b) From the top of pitch 1 of Rectangular Slab (before you walk right) there is an arete up above. Approach easily at first, then up a rough wall. Place gear in the crack on the the left of the arete and climb the wonderfully rough rock on the arete to the top. This pitch would probably make a good finish to the top of Aardvark.
David Menadue, Duncan Davey, June 2004

Luminous Lemon Cake 35m E2/3
(5b). From the base of Rectangular Slab itself, a crack slants left from Rectangular Rib. Climb this and the wall/corner above to belay on the top of Rectangular Slab. This is better that it looks. The next pitch follows the left hand side of the prominent arete above. Pull awkwardly into the niche on the left and move up to place gear, then step right and climb the arete staying on the left (the slab on the right of the arete is actually quite blank).
David Menadue, Duncan Davey, 30th July 2004
The arete if climbed on the right from the ledge, and then up the steep narrow slab above would provide some very hard and committing climbing in a superb position right at the top of the crag.

Broadsword 18m E2
(5c). On the right of Rectangular Slab itself is an imposing steep wall. The right-hand side of this is clean and is climbed easily at first on rough rock to a spike almost flush with the rock. The very thin right facing corner above leads to good holds. A move left past a wafer thin flake (careful!) leads to another very thin right-facing corner/flake to finish. Belay well back on the obvious spike.
David Menadue, Duncan Davey, 29th August 2004

Danny Boy 18m E4
On the right of Rectangular Slab itself is an imposing steep wall. In the middle at the bottom of the wall is an obvious, large, clean circular detached flake.
(6a). Climb up just right of this and place gear in the thin crack above. Fingery climbing up and left leads to another good piece in a wet crack on the left. Make difficult moves over the bulge to better holds. Climb directly to the top passing a strange circular hold. Belay well back on the obvious spike.
David Menadue, Duncan Davey, 29th August 2004

Haardvark (or Aardvark Right Hand) E3

A worthwhile pitch though rather dirty and committing.

(5c). Climb Aardvark to the peg, then launch out rightwards up the wall to an awkward landing on the slab above. Continue up the corner/flake and move back left under a slanting overhang to rejoin Aardvark at the small bush. Finish up the top arete of Aardvark.

Martin Dale (unseconded), 12th June 1999

The Luminous Dog 86m E5 Impressive climbing taking the wall between Gwynne’s Chimney and Golden Slipper. Rather scrappy low down but this is forgotten once one moves into the groove. Height is an advantage and a cool head essential. The belay at the top is set well back and a separate rope was use for the belay. Alternatively a higher belay could be taken at the bottom of the second pitch. Start to the left of Gwynne's Chimney as for Trolls Corner. 1 38m (4b) Move up left to the rowan tree. Climb up and traverse left to join Pokerface on the slabby wall and follow this and the grassy rake to belay on the left below a grassy corner. 2 48m (6a) Ascend the grassy corner rightwards to where it steepens, below a short corner crack. Gain this and climb it to gain the top of the huge flake traversed by Stalag. Move right slightly below the obvious groove – which unfortunately is initially devoid of gear. Getting into the groove is problematical and solved by climbing the undercut wall on the left to gain a hold and small crack in the left arete of the groove (HB Offset 4 placement in the crack). Continue up using the arete left of the groove to gain some sanctity and a poor runner placement at the top of the groove. Continue up the wall above and over a short overlap to a large flake. Finish up the wall above to the right of the corner. Dave Menadue, Chris King, Ron Kenyon, 14th September 2002 Led after a failed on-sight attempt, followed by top roped ascent and cleaning – and also without chalk!

Photo: Dave Menadue on the first ascent of Luminous Dog, Pavey Ark (Ron Kenyon)

Golden Rule 50m E5

Climbs the centre of the wall left of Book of Reasons. Excellent climbing, but bold.

(6a). Follow Book of Reasons, up the flakes and the rib to reach the steepness at an obvious V-shaped runner slot with a hairline crack running up the wall from it. Arrange protection here(Friend 1,large Rock or Hex in the slot, RP2 in the crack above and Rocks 1,2 and 5 in the wall on the right).Climb the wall just right of the hairline crack to a good edge and pocket after a couple of moves (second RP2 in the hairline crack on the left).Continue cranking up the wall on small finger pockets until just beyond the steepness then move left under a slight bulge on sideholds to reach an excellent incut pocket at the base of a faint groove (Rocks 1 and 2).Make a scary rockup onto the top of the bulge, then climb the faint groove with no more gear until a good spike is reached and a junction with Book of Reasons where it pulls through the overhang. Finish up Book of Reasons to the top of its second pitch.
Martin Dale, Dave Wood, Phil Lee, Hal Rzadkiewicz, 5^th August 2001

Aero 30m HS 2007
Fifty metres up and left from Golden Slipper, Jack's Rake turns a corner; after a further 8 metres an attractive rib rises on the right. Start here.
1 15m (4a). Climb the rib and its continuation to a spike belay.
2 15m (4b). Climb the awkward corner crack and finish up the slabs above.

Bubbles 27m MS 2007
Start 5 metres up and left of Aero.
1 13m. Climb the wall, scoop and right-slanting crack, before moving up to the spike belay of Aero.
2 14m. Step left and finish up a series of corners and slabs.


Note:- In times past other pioneers have found these beautifully clean rocks irresistable and their lower sections are well-marked! They are worthwhile.Both re-discovered and named BJ Clarke (solo), 6th Oct 2007

Aerosol 16m MVS 2007
A rather more substantial offering up the walls to the left, with a memorable finish. Start 20 metres left and up from Bubbles, at a flake belay above a belt of slabs on the Rake.
(4b). Traverse a terrace rightwards and climb a short corner crack. Continue up a shallow groove in the wall above to reach a sloping ledge. Teeter up the slabby headwall just right of centre to finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 6th Oct 2007

East Buttress

Keith Phizacklea reports that there has been a further loss to the "downward pointing spike" on the first pitch of Brain Damage. It's harder than 5c  (they couldn't do it which should tell you something!)

Comatose - the small flake is no longer there and the route is now E6 (6a/b), medium difficulty for the grade, worth two stars. Also the line marked on the diagram is wrong as it starts up Mother Courage, not to its left as in the diagram. (Comments from Nick Wharton, Wes Hunter).

Impact Day has been repeated by John Dunne and almost by Ben Bransby.

Angel Heart has received a second ascent from David Birkett and is reported as E7 (6a), very scary and worth a star. David has also recleaned Heartsong.

Cascade Easy Way  VS
If you find the 3 metre corner too hard this variation allows the Cascade slab to be climbed at a well protected 4c. Conditions were very dry though.
Start from the grass ledge below the 3 metre corner (this is probably the the logical start to pitch 2).
(4c). On the right is a flake crack.  Climb this to its top where good holds permit a move left onto the Cascade slab.  Follow a crack/groove line up the right hand side of the slab to its top.  Continue in the same crack-line until it reaches the chimney of pitch 3.  Excellent climbing all the way with good protection. 
Ken Daykin, Anne Daykin, Tuesday 8th August 2006 (no doubt climbed by many other short climbers in the past)

The description of Cascade in the current guide is not very helpful, the one in the selected guide is much better.  I think the guide should state that it is possible to walk to the bottom of the 3 metre corner from the main gully as this is the start of Cascade Direct and Heartsong and it is easy to think you must be in the wrong place if you can walk there. (Ken Daykin)

LANGDALE
Brightbeck Crag, Brightbeck Cove (p 123)

Andy Dunhill writes: I climbed on Bright Beck Cove a couple of weeks ago. I think there is an error in the directions to the crag if you read it and look on the map. It says walk up the west side of Bright Beck then cross it and go up the hillside. It should say follow the east side of the stream.

Let Them Dabble 18m E3
(5c). Climb Bright Beck Corner for 4 metres, then pull out leftwards and climb the wall boldly and direct to reach the top crack of the Tinkerer.
Stuart Wood, Stephen Ashworth, 8th June 2002

LANGDALE
Cove Crag, Brightbeck Cove (287 082)

When standing on top of Brightbeck Crag, looking up and left lies a series of obvious crags about 300 metres away.

The Confidence Man 20m E2
(5b). The obvious left-hand pillar is climbed direct to the crack at 14 metres - first protection. Pull out right and climb the steepening wall direct. Superb!
Stuart Wood, Stephen Ashworth, 8th June 2002

From The Confidence Man, follow the base of the rock up to the right until the last slab before it merges into the fellside. The route takes the slab and "thumb" of rock above it.

Nobble Nibble 18m E1
(5b) Gain the slab from its left edge and climb it on nice rugosities to reach a ledge. Traverse off here right or left and award yourself HVS (4c). Continue up the steeper thumb above more or less direct trending slightly right towards the top. It may be possible to bail into the slope on the right when the going gets tough. No gear to speak of. Delightful climbing.
Martin Dale (solo, with top spotter, Nick Dalzell - he looked over the top and pointed out holds!), 11th June 2006

The Future's Bright 17m E1
(5a). At the top of The Confidence Man is another pillar. Climb this direct to the top.
Stephen Ashworth, Stuart Wood, 8th June 2002

Slab, Ridge and Arete 25m E1
About 30 metres to the right of The Future's Bright is another pillar with a ridge running down from its left-hand arete.
(5b). Climb the middle of the slab to join the ridge about 3 metres from where it meets the arete. Climb the arete directly.
Stuart Wood, Stephen Ashworth, 8th June 2002

LANGDALE
Harrison Stickle (p 126)

Primavera 75m VD 2008
A direct, fairly continuous climb up the south face of the dome-shaped buttress directly below the summit, easily seen from the path via Pike Howe.
Start at the foot of a ridge of white slabs projecting from the base of the buttress below its right side, cairn. The South Central Buttress scramble ( Vol 1 Scrambles in the Lake District), takes this ridge.
1 50m. Climb the left flank of the ridge via a steeper section until blocks lead to a steep buttress. Follow this directly up its left edge to a small grassy terrace and a block belay. A fine, lofty perch!
2 25m. Pull up the steep rib on the right, and continue up the shallow groove. Step left and finish up an arete and pale slab above.
A pleasant ramble up the slabby rocks on the left leads to the summit cairn in 60 metres.
Re-discovered BJ Clarke (solo) 19th Feb 2008

Treasure 35m MVS 2007
A good, direct and exhilerating climb taking the grooved arete immediately right of Harristicklefront. Start as for that climb.
1 21m (4b). Gain the arete by a stiff pull and continue to an alcove. Climb the steep right wall of the alcove, before following a crack just right of the arete to a ledge and block belays at a paler area of rock.
2 14m (4a). Climb the rounded groove above and slightly right, and continue up easier slabs to reach a small juniper terrace. Nut and block belays. Twenty five metres of pleasant scrambling leads to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 18th Oct 2007

Tweed Wall 30m HS 2007
A continuously interesting climb up the wall left of Waller's Crack.
Start 10 metres down and left of Waller' Crack at the foot of a spiky rib.
(4a). Climb the rib and continue up the black crack for 4 metres, before moving right and up to a ledge. Follow the wall above, trending right to finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 18th Oct 2007

LANGDALE
Dungeon Ghyll Bouldering

Martin Panton notes that in the deep ghyll of Dungeon Ghyll itself, above the second main waterfall, lies a huge amount of large boulders at grid reference 286 067. There are far too many boulders to map and describe as yet although he is working on it. Many climbs climbed whilst just checking the area out, from scrambles to 5b although much higher grades can be found. Excellent quiet and beautiful surrounds with only a half hour walk in. A bouldering mat is useful due to bouldery landings. More to follow on this area.

LANGDALE
Pike Howe (NY 289 069)

This fine miniature pike has two rock facets, south-west and south-east; divided by a pale overhanging wall with a slanting groove on its left-hand side (uncanningly resembling Shifter, Burnt Crag, Duddon).
The south-east facet is steeper and compact, but mossy. The south-west area is more broken, but protruding buttresses have provided a few opportunities which may be worth the 30 minute walk.

Eustacia Vye 18m HS 2007
Start 14 metres down and left of the pale overhanging wall at the left-hand and cleanest of a series of ribs.
1 9m. Climb the rib and follow easier ground to a terrace. Block belay on the right below a slab split by a thin crack.
2 9m (4a). Climb a subsidiary block and continue up the thin crack in the slab to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 20th Oct 2007

Orford Buttress 14m VD 2007
25 metres left of Eustacia Vye a slab slants left under an overhang. Start below the right-hand end of the overhang at a small rib.
Ascend rightwards past a flake to gain the foot of the buttress on the right. Follow this pleasantly to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 20th Oct 2007

Senta's Rib 15m S 2007
Ten metres left of Orford Buttress, at a higher level, is a two tier arete, identified at its base by a small block overhang, cut by a thin crack on its left.
(4a). Climb the thin crack and continue up the aretes to the top. Nice climbing.
BJ Clarke (solo), 20th Oct 2007

Pamina's Pillar 13m MVS 2007
The final, and shortest rib lies a further 10 metres left.
(4b). Gain the rib from the left and follow it daintily to a ledge. Continue up easier rocks to finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 20th Oct 2007

LANGDALE
Raven Crag (p 128)

There is a report of a large loose block on the descent from Raven Crag (5/6/06). This has now been removed (19/11/06)

West Middlefell Crag (left of Middlefell Gully).

Fifty metres up and left of the start of Middlefell Buttress there is a large tree growing from the base of a crag. Left of the tree is some clean steep rock with the following two routes. 15 metres left of the tree is a chimney. Just right of the chimney is an overhang at 5 metres height. One to two metres right is a short leaning groove.

Two Grooves 20m E2*

(5c). Climb the short leaning groove to a small ledge at 4 metres. From the right end of the ledge reach up for big holds. Move up, then across right to a short groove which is climbed to easier ground. Continue up to a crack which is followed leftwards to the top.

Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 8^th July 2000

Catherine Zeta 18m E3**

Start 2 metres right of Two Grooves.

(5c). A steep pull leads to the small ledge of Two Grooves and on up to the big holds. Move up left and follow a thin crack line which becomes steeper and wider (just left of the arete). Easier climbing leads to the top.

Tom Walkington, Eric Barnes, 5^th July 2000

Where the next route lies in realtion to those above is not yet certain.

Gordon the Warden 10m HVS
Takes twin cracks in steep pink wall on the west side of gully to west of Middlefell Buttress - on a level with top of that route just above descent route.
(5b). Follow the left hand crack - jams and cams - to a lofty summit.
M Bagness, S Ashworth, 19th April 2005

Middlefell Gully

Sixty metres further up the gully from Slim Buttress is a large boulder embedded in the gully bed.

Lancelot 15m VD
Ten metres below the embedded boulder is an obvious rib.
Climb the rib starting on the left (higher) side.
Jim Cooper, 29th March 2003

Chancelot 20m HVS 4c/5a
Takes the south-west-facing wall behind the embedded boulder. Start just right of the left arete of the wall.
(4c/5a). Climb up for 4 metres to a small overlap. Traverse right for 2 metres to a vague crackline which is followed to easier angled rock and a large ledge.
Tom Walkington, Jim Cooper, 29th March 2003

Middle Fell Buttress

Whisper Slab 11m VS

The clean slab on the right of the gully above Curtain Wall. Trend left to the top.

D Wright 21st October 1993

Lower Gully Wall

Armalite is more like E3 (KP).

Mendes Wall

Fuzz Face E1 5b
The wall between Bradleys Damnation and Mendes.
Start as Mendes to gain slab over first bulge. Where this heads right into the main corner, keep straight on up the wall - follow a faint line just left of a tiny hanging corner to a final fuzzy rock-over. Good gear, furry rock, needs a shave.
Martin Bagness, John Kelly, 26th September 2007

Brown Eyed Girl 30m E1

A good pitch following a very obvious line, parts of which may well have been climbed before.

(5c). Start at the overhanging groove at the right-hand side of the roof of Power of Imagination. Climb the groove and the wall above to a more open groove. Up this to easier ground (peg and nut belays - as for Gamekeeper ).
Karl Telfer, Paul Morgan,17th June 2001

Gamekeeper: A crucial hold has broken off the bottom overlap with Martin Armitage attached - now E2 (5c) at least.

Raven Crag Buttress

The following comments are from Roger Wilkinson: Odin (aka Evening Oak Variations - description identical in previous edition) - quite hard to follow this route, and its relation to Patella Pinch isn’t very clear. Second pitch - couldn’t find a chimney - is it the “heather filled crack” mentioned in Patella Pinch? Do these routes cross Evening Wall? This bit of the guide could be clearer! Description for first pitch of Odin doesn’t really make sense. Suggested re-write: Climb slabby rock to foot of groove. Climb groove for a few moves till the slabby rib on the left looks more attractive and climb it past left end of overhang as for Patella Pinch to reach a good ledge with poor belays.

From Trevor Langhorne: I read Roger Wilkinson's comments on Odin in the recent developments section with interest. I found the first pitch easy enough to follow and was independent of patella Pinch until easier ground is reached. I looked at moving to the left arete and onto Patella Pinch as Roger did but scurried back to the groove (and a superb runner) pulling left over the overhang as the guide suggests to large cleaned jugs (best moves on Odin?). The second pitch reverses a fair bit of the evening wall p2 traverse and is well to the right of the first pitch (25' ish); it climbs the prominent steep heathery weakness through the overhangs with limited protection. I think Patella Pinch belays below this weakness. Overall worth doing when you have done the rest.

The Original Route, Pitch 3 'move back right 3 metres' should be left! Terry Gifford.

Trilogy (E5 6a): description is more off-putting than needs be, as pegs can always be supplemented. Lots of small OK wires by first low crux, bomber nuts right above second peg and gear just below pegs in upper roof. Climb the big roof just to the right of the corner. Bomber gear from here to the top. A brilliant, clean route (Grimer).

Euology grade confirmed E6 6b, deserves 2* (CH, AW).

Variation: Euology Direct Finish E8 {F8a/8a+}
Described as a 20 foot boulder problem on top of an E6! Worth wearing a helmet for as if you fall off you'll take a big swing into the corner of Trilogy.
(6c). Follow Euology until first roof of Trilogy, then move right past a shallow peg and finish up between Trilogy and Dawes.
David Birkett, 4th May 2005

Bilberry Buttress Eliminate E2
Shares the same belays as Bilberry Buttress.
1 (5b). Climb a slabby rib to gain a triangular niche a few metres left of the crack of Bilberry Buttress Pitch 1. Pull over onto a slab and climb this direct to the belay. The E2 grade is given for this pitch.
2 (5b). Climb the crack as for Bilberry Buttress pitch 2, but continue up it where Bilberry Buttress pulls out right, to reach a small roof on the left. Pull over this leftwards on improving holds and continue up the arete.
3. Same as Bilberry Buttress pitch 3 or Pluto pitch 3.
Martin Bagness, John Kelly 18th September 2007

LANGDALE
East Raven Crag (p 151)

Ophidia: the quartzy flake which is used to pull right out of the initial niche is becoming loose - could be a decker from there (RW).

By Jingo 18m E1 (just?)*

Fine wall climbing with just adequate protection. Start 1m left of Jingo (and 2m right of Ophidia) at a vague raggedy crack.

(5a). Climb the crack and then boldy up the wall above directly to finish via the last few moves of Ophidia.

Stephen JH Reid, Colin Read, Colwyn Jones, Ann MacDonald, 16th April 2000

Horse or Pony 15m E1

Takes the steep wall just to the right of the scoop in which Ophidia starts.

(5a) Go up and over the bulge to a good ledge, continue up the steep wall directly above the bulge keeping left of the big holds on the route to the right. Poor protection on an interesting crux, the route is far better than the appearnce would suggest and the holds are clean and solid.

Doug Davies (solo), 3^rd April 2002

Sounds very similar to By Jingo

Bingo 18 metres VS, 4c
Start as for Speckled Band.
(4c). Climb up to the short right facing corner at 4 metres. Climb the corner to a small ledge. Then move up and right to a small letterbox (Friend 2). Climb up and left to a vertical crackline and up and left again to another crackline which leads to the top.
Tom Walkington, Eric Barnes, 8th August 2003

The Chopper: First ascent Ian "Wilf" Williamson, Paul Cornforth, 1983.

LANGDALE
Far East Raven Crag (p156)

Warning: There has been a big rockfall from the roof right of Babylon, (taken by Warlock), and it sounds as though the area is very unstable.

Ur... 48 m MVS
This combination of pitches gives a pleasant route and the easiest line on this part of the crag. Protection is good after the first 8 metres.
Start 2 metres right of Samarkand at an obvious slabby rib defining the left edge of the large bay containing an oak tree.
1 13m (4a). Climb the rib, which soon eases. Where it steepens again head up diagonally right, passing to the left of a large blunt spike (runners) , then continue to belay at the ledge below Pitch 2 of Damascus.
2 7m. Traverse easily left to belay on the holly on Samarkand (part of Far East Traverse in reverse).
3 28m (4b). Continue the traverse left past a bulge until access can be gained to a groove with a sapling (junction with Nineveh). Climb up, as for Nineveh, to a stunted oak, then bridge straight up on small holds, keeping left of the right-slanting groove of Nineveh.
R Smithson, D Heard (alt), 12th May 2004
Not much new climbing - the existing route Jerusalem is probably close to the first pitch for the first few metres, but so vaguely described that it's hard to know. The middle pitch is not new, and only the top of the third pitch is independent of Nineveh. It's quite a nice route though, and would probably be of interest to climbers of modest ability.
Richard: "Mos