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LANGDALE
Gimmer to Langdale Boulders
(pages 165 - 316)
Page numbers refer to the FRCC Guide:
Langdale (1999) |
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FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB
of the
English Lake District |
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A Plea for Photographs |
Photos of crags in good light in summer are needed for the next edition of this guide. Please contact the FRCC Guidebook Photographs Editor if you think you have any such photos (in any format). Needless to say any good action photos would also be well received - for these we need to know: crag, route, grade, pitch, name of climber, name of photographer. You don't get paid I'm afraid, but you will get a free guidebook if we use any of your pictures! |
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LANGDALE
Gimmer Crag (p
165)
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Main
Wall
The Purple Edge 48m VS 2007
Despite the contrived start, a fine, direct and clean route taking the arete which bounds Main Wall on its right.
Start one metre right of Main Wall Climb.
1 17m (4c). Climb directly up the left side of a rib
(crossing Main Wall Climb) to reach a scoop. Move up, then diagonally left to gain a corner. Up this for 2 metres, then trend rightwards to the stance atop Pitch 1 of Main Wall Climb.
2 31m (4c). Gain and climb the shallow groove in the arete directly above, and its steeper, trickier continuation; before moving up and left to reach easier climbing and the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 18th Oct 2007
Out
of the Blue 60m VS
Pleasant
climbing on good rock
1
45m (4b). Climb straight up the wall for 4 metres to where it
steepens., move left and continue diagonally to a small short
corner and climb it. Continue directly up the wall and rib above
to a leftward-slanting crack, follow it, then step down left to
a bilberry ledge.
2
15m. Move left a few metres and climb directly up the fine clean
wall on superb rock.
C
Read, GL Swainbank (alt), 10th June 2001
Repeated
by Stephen Reid who notes the start
is 2 metres left of the chimney,
below a bulge. Above the bulge there is no need to move
left into the groove as good holds lead up diagonally leftwards
to the same point.
South-East
Face
Remembrance:
The downward-pointing spike on the crux has gone but the grade
is unchanged.
Bracket
Direct 96m HVS **
A pleasant series of eliminate pitches giving a direct line
up the junction of the South-East and Alphabet Faces.
The difficult sections are short but stiff! Start as for Bracket
and Slab.
1 31m (5a). Follow the rib of Bracket and Slab for
a few metres to the good spike and then traverse from this
horizontally rightwards to make an awkward pull up into a
small niche. Continue up the slab and rib above, overcoming
an overlap at its left-hand end, and belay on the terrace
under the Bracket. |
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2
31m (5a). Climb directly up to the left end of the Bracket,
stand on it, and follow the thin crack directly above to
exit steeply via a large spike. Climb up to a bay (belay
on Bracket and Slab) and continue directly up the
rock above via a heathery crack to emerge on Thompson's
Ledge at a blunt nose in between the crack of Crow's
Nest Direct on the left and Amen Corner on the
right (possible belay). Overcome the blunt nose direct via
via a long reach and an awkward mantelshelf and exit rightwards
onto the Gangway.
3 10m (4c). Splitting the overhanging pink wall directly
above is the thin rightward-slanting crack (Crow's Nest
Direct variation). Climb this directly to the stance
on Crow's Nest Direct.
4 24m (4b/c). Step up right from the belay and climb the
steep wall to a bilberry ledge. Move left along the ledge
a metre or so and climb the slab, tending rightwards, to
the top.
C King, SJH Reid (AL), 16th October 2003
Via the Original Finish. Pitch 4 as described was added
by SJH Reid, J Roberts, 24th May 2004.
Little of the route was new, probably only Pitch 1 and
the upper section of Pitch 2, but none of it had been recorded
except the variation to Crow's Nest Direct which forms Pitch
3. However it does make a good HVS up this area of Gimmer.
Repeated by the guidebook writer and awarded **.
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Finish 4 24m (4c). Follow the heathery crack/groove which
lies just right of the line of Crow's Nest Direct leftwards
to the Crows Nest. From the left side of the Crow's Nest,
climb directly up the blunt arête (without moving left
into the chimney). Easier rock leads to the top. |
Frank
Yates notes that: we went up Bracket and Slab the other day,
and wondered why pitch 5 was included. "It seemed to us that,
rather than have pitch 4 ending at a poor stance, then a six metre
pitch to a superb stance, that pitch 4 and 5 could be combined,
with merely a runner used in the thin crack presently serving as
the belay point at the end of pitch 4. There might be some reason
for this, but it seems a little silly to us."
Also,
the big blocks making up the Bracket of Bracket and Slab are appparently worryingly unstable - noticed August 2006.
Roger Wilkinson adds: I see that the description of the pitch after the bracket, including the Neat Bit, are as confusing as they were in the 1967 guide which I have just been looking at. It's amazing that anyone new to the crag can make any sense of it at all! May I suggest replacing the description for pitch 4 with the following: Step up into a niche then traverse easily for about 15m to where a ramp descends from the left from Amen Corner. The ramp peters out at a spike (poss. abseil escape). Next is the Neat Bit - climb the steep but juggy wall to reach a short steep crack which leads to a poor stance (or continue with pitch 5). I also thought that description of pitch 7 could be simplified and thereby improved. The details of the existing description make little sense. I suggest the following: Climb onto the slab above the left side of the gully and follow as closely as possible its right edge.
Stephen Reid adds:
I'd suggest the following rewrite.
*** Bracket and Slab Climb 97m S 1923
An excellent, long and varied route, which is MVS if the Strenuous Chimney is included. Some 15 metres directly above the gearing-up ledge on the main path under the South-East Face is steep slab which has a striking diagonal crack running up it: this is the Variation Start. Five metres below and left of this crack is a slabby rib leading up to a large spike flake. This is just to the right of the Bilberry Chute.
1 21m. Climb the easy-angled rib/slab to the spike. Step left into a groove and follow this, and/or the rib on its right, past several awkward steps to a grassy bay. Follow this to the top of the bay (just above a blocky lump that is often used as an abseil point) and belay in a rocky corner beneath an overhanging V-groove/niche (on Crow's Nest Direct). This is at the extreme right-hand end of Ash Tree Ledge.
2 12m. The Bracket is the large block stuck on the wall up and right of the belay, and horizontally right of the base of the niche. Climb up to the right of the groove leading to the niche, and make a devious traverse horisontally rightwards for 6 metres, either foot or hand-traversing the Bracket, to gain a groove just to its right which leads up and leftwards to a stance in an alcove.
3 26m. Climb out rightwards from the alcove and traverse diagonally rightwards over easy ground, well below the overhanging Amen Corner, to just before the left edge of the first chimney pitch of Gimmer Chimney (there is an abseil spike here). Follow a leftwards-rising ramp (the Neat Bit) up the steeper wall to a huge ledge system (the Gangway). Traverse easily rightwards along this to the foot of the left-hand of two chimneys.
4 9m. The Strenuous Chimney is the narrow, slightly overhanging left-hand chimney. It is better protected than it appears but is MVS and best suited to thin masochists who will bury themselves in it seeking security of sorts. Stouter individuals or those preferring a more consistent grade will opt for the easier chimney round to the right (as for Gimmer Chimney).
5 19m. Traverse leftwards onto the rib on the left of the gully and follow it keeping close to its right-hand edge, but moving left a little just below the top.
Variation Start
The clean slab, split by a prominent right-to-left slanting crack, 5 metres up and right of the normal first pitch is a worthwhile but harder start, more in keeping with the grade of the left-hand chimney.
1 (4c). Climb the crack in the slab, passing an overlap at 9 metres. This leads to the grassy bank at the top of pitch 1.
Chris King did Poacher which he thought was hard for E1, and the second pitch undergraded at 5a - might be worth checking. He said it doesn't seem to get a lot of traffic.
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Stone
the Crows 14m E2
This variation on Pitch 2 of Crow's Nest Direct gives
a short but desperately sustained struggle.
(5c). Follow Crow's Nest Direct to the niche which
is climbed directly.
C King, SJH Reid, 16th October 2003
Crow's
Nest Direct Variation to Pitch 3 - the description mentions
starting from a small pedestal just right of 'B' Route.
There are actually two such pedestals. The left-hand one
is the route proper, but it is also possible to climb off
the right-hand one. This is harder (5b?) and rather serious.
Note:
On the diagram above of the SE Face of Gimmer, Thomson's
Ledge is marked wrongly. The right-hand T should
be under Amen Corner.
It seems
that pitch 2 of Crow's Nest Direct was first climbed
by Ivan Waller and Jack Longland on April 13th 1931 as a
variation to Bracket and Slab (see CC Journal 1931, p259).
Photo
Right: Chris King on the first ascent of Stone the Crows
(E2 5c)
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West
Face
C Route - Variation to pitch 2 (HS)
On pitch 2, on Thompson's ledge, where it says move right to climb
the right side of the flake, climb straight up the left side of the flake via a crack - a bit of a struggle and rejoinn the standard route after a few metres.
Stephen Reid, Sally Bennett, 9th April 2006
Rpeated and found to be an insecure HS, 4b by Barry Clarke.
Dipthong probably
deserves HVS due to its desperate start
Variation:
Dipthong Super Direct Finish **
Better than the
original finish (which was originally called the Direct).
2a (4b/c). Move
up to the right of the roof and step back left over the top of
it. Climb delicately up a scoop, moving leftwards into a second
scoop and up to a point where it would be possible to traverse
left into 'C' Route.
Step up right and finish directly up the hanging rib.
SJH Reid, A Lywood,
29th March 2000
Trevor
Langhorne notes that: Lichen Groove is rather harder than
implied in the new guide. Technically it is as hard as any move
on Whit's End, i.e. 4c and the difficulties are subtle with poor
protection. Mid to high VS 4c would be a safer grade.
The "good" flake belay above Lichen Chimney (P 5 "A" Route); is now in terminal decline. Fortunately, a good crack exists 2 metres to the left.
The Crimson Pirate 41m VS 2007
An eliminate, giving good, direct climbing up the rib above the ABCE wall. Start as for "E" Route.
1 18m (4b). After 5 metres, climb the shallow groove one metre left of the obvious overhang. Cross Oliverson's Variation and continue up a further groove to gain the rib proper. Follow this direct, climbing the right edge of the small crimson-coloured corner; until moves up and right lead to a belay at the top of the Forty Foot Corner .
2 23m (4a). Step up left and climb the leftwards-slanting shallow groove to reach the top of Lichen Chimney. Enter the green corner directly above and follow it for 3 metres; until a traverse right leads to a shallow recess. Climb the wall above to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo) 15th Nov 2007
Topaz 40m HVS 2007
An eliminate, giving fine and bold climbing up the walls delineating "E" Route. The protection is poor where it matters, necessitating precise route-finding.
Start as for Oliverson's Variation.
1 16m (4c). Climb direct to a ledge, then step left and follow the shallow crack/groove line to the terrace above pitch 2 "E" Route.
2 24m (4c). Move right along the terrace and pull up onto a ledge in a shallow recess (situated about 2 metres right of the crack on pitch 3 of "E" Route. Move up again, and follow a slightly ascending rightwards traverse below a rounded bulge to reach the base of Lichen Chimney. Up this for 4 metres, then step left to gain a ledge below a scooped slabby wall. Climb this to the rock staircase on "A" Route, and follow this to an alcove below the finishing corner crack of that route. A stiff pull out of the right side of the alcove leads to better holds and the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 15th Nov 2007
D Route: The amount of detail in the description is very confusing. Why doesn't it say: climb up to the diagonal crack which bounds the edge of the smooth slabs, climb it to the top. (Ken Daykin)
Barry Clarke adds: The right-slanting groove on "D" Route is 5 metres to the good ledge, not 9 metres.
At the top of the same route, the moves involving the sloping ledge on the left seem to be too contrived, and raise the grade (a poorly-protected 4c) unnecessarily. Judging by the decrease in polish here, most folk romp enjoyably up the final crack of "A" Route.
Phiz-Holden's
Climb is
very bold - probably E2 (5b).
Whit's
End: P3 - replace "a short distance" with "2
metres". (DA)
Found this description very confusing. First pitch description is fine . Second pitch should read.......Continue the traverse to the right edge of the slab on small ledges. Climb steeply up (worth 5a) until it is possible to traverse into 'D' Route. Third pitch (desciption is wrong) my suggestion: A short distance above , a very thin horizontal crack leads out left into a scoop. From the scoop make a hard move up and left onto the slab, where difficulties ease and enjoyable etc. This might sound like nit picking. The main point is that there is no 'pull up into a scoop'. (Ken Daykin)
Roger
Wilkinson notes that two experienced pairs did Whit’s End
and Kipling Groove. Both were much more comfortable doing
the latter than the last pitch of the former. All were of the
opinion that Whit’s End, while being 4c, merited HVS to do justice
to the extremely bold last pitch. Not only is the crucial sequence
poorly protected (by a distant side runner almost on E Route)
but after you’ve done the move, about 5 metres of 4b climbing
in a very exposed position has no gear you’d be happy to fall
on. A very serious pitch.
Whitless 43m
E1*
A straight-line
eliminate between ‘F’ Route
and Whit's End Direct,
but free of both. Start just left of Whit's
End.
(5b). Climb directly
up the thin wall just left of Whit's
End’s initial crack. Pull over the bulge using the prominent
flake on Whit’s End then directly up the wall to
a horizontal crack which leads rightwards to a large flake on
Whit's End Direct. Follow the black mossy
slab first on the right, then on the left, then pull back right
and up the short groove between ‘F’
Route and Whit's End
Direct and so to the top.
SJH Reid, D Bodecott,
5th September 1999
Eastern
Axe E6
Start as for
Equus
(6b). Follow the Kipling Groove undercling to a weakness in the overhang left of Equus. Using sloping undercuts make committing
and dynamic moves, using the arete, to a good hold and protection
above. Continue up the
arete via a tricky move to attain a standing position
on a large flat hold. Continue much more easily.
James McHaffie,
Stuart Wood, 21st August 1998
Gimmer High
Girdle: Variation to
Pitch 1 HVS
A very airy outing.
More logical and less contrived than the original way.
(4c). From the
Bower, climb The Crack for 5 metres and then go diagonally up the fine right wall
to the rib of Gimmer String.
Climb this to below Gimmer
String's final crux wall and launch boldly rightwards on to
a small ledge. Swing right again - and keep going on the same
horizontal line to end up with your feet in the Kipling
Groove hand traverse. At the end of the traverse line, step
down and round to the stance on Poacher.
Martyn Hopson,
Frank Wilkinson, 16th June 2000
North-West Face
Gambol 22m MVS 2007
Despite the rather brittle rock in its lower reaches, this is an interesting little route taking the slabs and overlap left of Cartwheel. Start 3 metres up and left of that climb at a thin crack.
(4b). Climb the thin crack and move up and leftwards to the overlap. Pull through this at the main weakness, then step left onto the nose and follow the thin diagonal cracks leftwards, past a steepening, to reach a ledge. Two slabby walls above and slightly left lead pleasantly to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo) 15th Nov 2007
Suitors for Cartwheel (VD) maybe a little surprised by the spooky, brittle start at 4b! Perhaps an upgrade to Severe at least?
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Photo Above Right: Steve Venables on the upper part of pitch
2 of North-West Eliminate during the first ascent.
Most of the bit that can be seen is in common with Intern
(E1), but the pitch finishes up a scoop on the bottom left
of the photo, whereas Intern finishes up the crack
in the arete as for North-West Arete. |
North-West
Eliminate 45m HVS
An eliminate line that is still enjoyable despite getting a bit
squeezed out in the higher reaches. Start as for Asterisk,
North-West Arete etc at the good spike belay.
1 20m (5a). Make an exposed traverse horizontally rightwards to
pull round into the ramp of Intern. Follow this up and
leftwards to a hanging stance at its left end.
2 25m (5a). Step left round the arete onto North-West Arete,
but climb up directly to the overhang. Pull straight over this,
stepping out leftwards, and then immediately traverse right around
the arete. Climb the arete/wall on its right throughout to not
far below the top where a scoop/series of footholds on the right
leads to a thin finish.
Stephen Reid, Steve Venables, 24/9/04
The upper part of the second pitch is common with Intern, though
the finish is new. Part of this route had already been climbed
by Sarah Norminton and Adam von Lopik in August 2004 in an attempt
to climb NW Arete as directly as possible.
Repeated
by Max Biden who suggests the following as a better description:-
North West Eliminate 48m HVS **
An enjoyable eliminate line, whose pitches provide an excellent
contrast in style. Start as for the alternative start to North
West Arete (below a prominent narrow gangway, hanging just
above the gully floor).
1. 25m (5a). Pull across into a short corner guarding entrance
to the gangway. Climb the awkward corner and ramp above to easy
ground and up to good runners by the start of Asterisk
(optional belay). Make an exposed traverse horizontally rightwards
with increasing delicacy, immediately above an impending wall,
to pull round onto the ramp of Intern. Good spike belay
and hanging stance on arrival. (There is a runner half way across
the traverse to reduce the fright factor for the second, and a
further runner on the wall above and left of the belay itself.)
2. 23m (5a). Climb up the ramp behind the belay and step left
round the arete onto North-West Arete. Move directly up
to beneath the square-cut overhang above. There is a juggy thin
horizontal crack above this leading out to the right. Gain this
and more goods holds above, which facilitate a gymnastic move
up right onto the lip, and so regain the arete. Climb the arete
on its right-hand side throughout until just below the top. Then,
either follow the fractured crack as for North West Arete
(better), or move rightwards into a vague scoop which leads to
a thin finish.
Elektra
57m HVS*
Takes a straight
line up the obvious well-protected rib left of Godiva Groove. Start at the foot of the rib as for Godiva Groove.
1 38m (5a). Follow
the rib using cracks and thin grooves on its left side to easier
ground. It is best to move right and up to spike belays in Godiva Groove.
2 19m (5a). Return
to the line, continue directly up the wall, pulling through the
small capping roof at a groove, then onto the left rib in a fine
airy position.
D Bodecott, SJH
Reid, (alt), 5th September 1999.
Led on sight.
One aid point used for cleaning on the first pitch: the move was
then done free.
Pallid
Buttress
Hash
n' Trash is very hard for E1 - E2 (6a)? (KP).
Suggested
improved description for Nocturne:
1 (4c). As before.
2 (4b). Climb directly up pleasant slabs, passing small overlap
on its right to reach right end of heathery ledge. Either climb
the steep crack for a few moves and traverse left to reach an
overhung niche (rather artificial), or walk left and scramble
up to the same niche.
3 (4c). Climb diagonally left to ledge on arete. Finish up two
rather mossy cracks above,first right, then left (couldn't
see a mossy corner). (Roger Wilkinson)
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LANGDALE
SE Facet of Pike of Stickle (GR 273 073) |
| Just below the summit and facing towards Gimmer Crag, this sunny facet of rock is steeper than the slabbier SW and W faces; although still plagued by ledges in its upper reaches. Its lofty elevation compensates somewhat!
The two routes so far start from a grassy terrace, gained by a tricky traverse from the right. Descent: Up to the summit, then follow walker's paths east to the col and the start of the tricky traverse.
Loafer Rib 34m HS 2007
Towards the left side of the facet a slanting, one metre high pinnacle block stands on the terrace (not to be confused with a more prominent pinnacle 25 metres to the left on a ridge). Start opposite the pinnacle block, cairn.
1 16m (4a). Follow a ramp up left for 3 metres, pull up the steep, rough wall, then trend leftwards to gain an arete. Climb this to a ledge with poor spike belays.
2 18m. Scramble up the right-slanting ramp for 4 metres; then step left to a ledge. Climb the steep wall above, gradually easing to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007
Sugar Beat 30m VS 2008
Interesting climbing through the bulges immediately right of Loafer Rib. Start as for that climb.
1 15m (4b). Climb up the rounded rib and gain a recess. Step right and pull over a bulge to reach a mossy groove, up this to a ledge with poor spike belays.
2 15m. Climb the wall to the right of the prow above to easier ground and the top.
BJ Clarke (solo) 19th Feb 2008
Beet Route 29m MVS 2008
3 metres right of Loafer Rib an indefinite crack-line slants rightwards through several small bulges.
1 15m (4b). Follow the crack-line to a small ledge, step left and climb a pale slab to a ledge with poor spike belays.
2 14m. Move up easily right; step off a block and follow the quartzy wall rightwards to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo) 19th Feb 2008
Ruby Slab 25m HS 2007
Fifteen metres right of the pinnacle block on the terrace a vegetated crack slants up rightwards, with an attractive red-hued slab on its right. Start directly below this slab.
(4a). Climb a short wall and continue up the red-hued slab, where rough rock has to compensate for the lack of protection! Paler slabs above lead to more broken rock and the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007
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LANGDALE
Stone Age Crag - Pike of Stickle (GR 272 069) |
| 75 metres right of the large scree gully leading up the right side of Pike of Stickle to the man-made cave is a fine, slabby wall slanting up the hillside. It lies just below where the scree gully becomes better defined; a group of spindly birch trees above and left of the wall gives another landmark.
The rock is interesting; a fascinating juxtaposition of granitic roundness and Gimmer jugginess, giving a myriad of move-types.
Age Hold 15m VS 2008
Interesting, technical climbing starting 14 metres up and left of Bygone at a right-slanting line leading to a ramp.
(4b). Follow the right-slanting line and ramp to finish as for Flintstone.
BJ Clarke (solo) 19th Feb 2008
Glancing Blow 16m S 2008
A pleasant start leads to a deflected finish! Start 7 metres up and left of Bygone at a rounded rib.
(4a). Climb the rib to a rightwards-slanting heathery break. Follow this right for 5 metres and climb a short wall to a ledge. Finish up the wall above as for Bygone.
BJ Clarke (solo) 19th Feb 2008
Flintstone 15m S 2007
Start 2 metres right of the lowest point (right-hand) of the wall, below a flake crack formed by a pinnacle; cairn.
(4a). Climb the flake crack and continue up the rib to a steepening. Step right and pull onto a ledge. Continue up the easier rib to the top and awkward spike and nut belays 4 metres above.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007
Bygone 16m VS 2007
Start at the lowest point of the wall at a block on the ground; 2 metres left of Flintstone.
(4b). Pull over a series of small bulges to gain a shallow groove. Up this and the slab above to reach a layback corner. Climb this, and the wall on the left to reach the finish of Flintstone.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007
Stone Age 16m S 2007
Thirty metres up and left of Bygone, and 9 metres right of the left-bounding ridge of the crag are two left-slanting faults running up the wall.
Start below the right-hand fault and just left of a heathery corner.
(4a). Climb the right-hand left-slanting fault to an impasse below two thin cracks cleaving a steep wall. Overcome this by a series of miraculous holds just left; before continuing up an indefinite crack line to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007
Ice Age 15m MVS 2007
More nice climbing, starting 3 metres left of Stone Age at a rock step in the grass.
(4b). Climb the pleasant wall on good holds to reach the left-hand left-slanting fault. Follow this, and its thin crack continuation to a rounded ledge. Move up, step right and finish up the short walls.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007
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LANGDALE
Neckband Crag (p 205)
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Al Evans has
written to say that there is a mistake in the 1999 guide historical
section concerning Aragorn
- this was initially climbed with a rest on a skyhook for cleaning
on the first pitch and a rest on a nut for cleaning on the second
pitch but both pitches were climbed free by him on the same day
(Sept 1972). The climb is now described in one pitch.
Despite
unusually dry conditions the Gizzard was virtually unclimbable
by normal mortals/means. I gardened my way up the first pitch
with some rests on gear.I would grade it HVV - Hard Very Vegetated
in its present state and award it a black dot instead of the star!
Adams Apple, Tonsor and Tonsure appear to
be in similar condition with several stars! (Martin Armitage).
Metroller
20m HVS
Start to the right of Route One at a shallow flake groove.
A thin and lightly protected finish.
(5a). Climb the groove to its top, below a "boss", and
step right onto a pillar. Climb the centre of the front face,
following a thin crack to the top.
Al Phizacklea (solo) 16th July 2000
So called because Craig Matheson rolled his new Metro the day
before (a write-off).
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LANGDALE
Flat Crags (p 214) |
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Flattery
(E7, 6b***) – second ascent (on sight) by James McHaffie and Wez
Hunter, July 2001. Grade and stars confirmed.
The following
routes have been repeated recenttly by Keith Phizacklea: Ataxia,
possibly E6- (6b), worth three stars; Redundancy of Courage,
E6-, worth two stars; 1984, E5 (6b) for 7 metres then HVS,
only worth one star; Exposure, probably E5- 6a, great gear,
worth three stars.
St. Luke 35m HVS 2007
A varied, interesting but serious route taking the easy-looking slabby walls at the left-hand side of the crag.
Start 6 metres left of Mary Ann at the mossy cave.
1 12m (4c). Climb the right wall of the cave and enter the chimney above. Squirm up this to belays at its top.
2 6m (4a). Step right and descend a gangway to gain a grassy bay. Hidden spike belay on the wall above.
3 17m (4c). Move up the steep little wall just right of the belay; then cross the unprotected slabby wall rightwards, ascending slightly, to gain a small bay below a short corner. Up the corner to a blocky ledge, from where a short arete on the right leads to the top. Spike and nut belays 5 metres back.
BJ Clarke (solo), 24th Oct 2007
Notes:- The name is a celebration of this enduring summer weather! Apparently, if good weather lasts into Sept and Oct Then we have a "St. Luke's Summer; hence the expression "Lukewarm". Only if it lasts into Nov and Dec can it be an "Indian Summer".
The top 6 metres of the route is more or less common to the winter version (1999) of Mary Ann.
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LANGDALE
North Buttress
(p224) |
| The
Gibli should be E3 (5c), it has a serious start and the second
and third pitches are both 5b (KP). |
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LANGDALE
Bowfell Buttress (p229)
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Flight of the Ravens 97m
E2**
The route is
based on the obvious large left facing corner, which is capped
by the central overhangs.
The main pitch
gives steep, strenuous, sustained
and exhilarating climbing which is well protected. Start
as for Silent Witness, 3 metres left of Bowfell Buttress, at the foot of a short
rib which is just left of a fault line running up into the corner.
1 15 m. Climb the rib, over a perched block at 3 metres,
move right and continue close to the fault line, (as for part of pitch one of Silent Witness) until a block
belay is reached on the edge, just below the start of the corner.
2 30 m (5c).
Move up to enter and climb the corner above. As the corner steepens
continue directly until just below its top, where a move can be
made to the left. Step up to beneath the overhang and make a move
up to the left to gain good holds at a horizontal break. Hand
traverse two metres left, move up and pull over a small overhang
via a crack, which forms the right edge of an embedded pinnacle,
surmount this (junction with pitch two of Silent
Witness). Continue up the wall for a few metres to an airy
stance at the foot of a rightward
slanting groove. Good nut belays a few metres higher.
3 35 m (4c).
From the stance step left onto a good ledge (as for Silent Witness) Now move up and left into a shallow groove near the
edge of the wall, continue up until an obvious step right gains
a grass ledge. Climb directly up the rocks above to a good ledge
with a thread and small spike belay.
4 17 m (4b).
Climb easily up to the foot of the steep rough slab (pitch four
of Sinister Slabs climbs the crack in this).
Climb it by its right-hand edge and continue directly up the short
wall above to the top.
Graham L Swainbank,
Colin Read (Alt), Colwyn M Jones, 17th October 1999
The second pitch
proved difficult to clean from above due to the overhangs. A rest
was taken on a nut beneath the top of the corner to facilitate
cleaning, it was then climbed free. The rock is good and solid,
however there is still some moss and grime in places and we hope
to return in due course to brush it off.
The
Central
Route: RW writes: Recently did this excellent route, but thought
it could benefit from more accurate description for the next guidebook.
Pitch 2 is really VS 4c, but fortunately an alternative exists
if the Severe leader wishes to do the route.Following description
might help:
Central Route VS**/S**
1. as before.
2 (4c). Attack the steep left-facing chimney/corner, using the
right wall and arête where helpful. Climb the continuation
chimney to a good stance with two spikes.
3. Climb the chimney for a few moves until a short L-traverse
leads to indeterminate slabby climbing which brings the climber
to a belay at a block below a prominent peg (Bong).
4 (4b). as before. Well protected climbing.
5 (4a). Step left to a prominent spike and climb the interesting
crack above. (I don’t know if this is what is meant in the description,
but it is a fine and direct finish).
Variations:
2a. Continue as for Bowfell Buttress to a large ledge,
then climb the wall trending leftwards to reach the two-spike
belay in the chimney. This reduces the overall grade to Severe
**
3a (4c). Traverse left from the belay and climb up the nose with
great exposure and no protection to rejoin the parent route. Serious
but good.
Woolly
Jumper should be E1, Pitch 1 is 5a with poor protection, Pitch
2 is 5b (KP). Agree
with KP that Woolly Jumper on Bowfell is E1 5a, 5b, not HVS as
given in guide (John Kettle).
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LANGDALE
Pyramid Ridge (GR 248 062) |
The steep, scree-ridden path from the Three Tarns col to Bowfell summit is bordered on its right side by four slabby buttresses forming a discontinuous ridge. Their steeper left flanks provide a myriad of variants, only the most obvious are described.
Although this area is briefly mentioned in Vol 1 of Scrambles in the Lake District, the rocks seem to be crackling pristine. Everywhere the climbing is pleasant on clean, rough, sun-drenched rock. The ridge will "go" throughout the year. Indeed, ice climbers visiting on a cloudless/windless mid-Winter's day will probably regret not bringing their rock shoes and chalk bags instead of axes and crampons.
Pyramid Ridge 60m VD/HS 2007
120 metres up and 10 metres right of the path from the Three Tarns col is the first slabby buttress, characterized by spiky flakes at half height. Start at its foot, cairn.
1 15m VD. Climb the slabby buttress past the flakes to the top.
Var. 1 The thin crack on the left flank is MS.
A short distance above is the next laid-back buttress.
2 15m VD. Climb the buttress direct to an inclined platform below a beautifully-stratified wall.
Var. 1 The curving groove on the left flank is VD.
Var. 2 The steep white wall just right is MS.
Var. 3 The scooped groove 6 metres left of the curving groove is S 4a.
3 6m MS. On the statified wall; climb the shallow crack just right of the arete.
Var. 1 The arete on its left side and joining it near the top is HS 4b.
Var. 2 The crack system just left is MS.
A 20 metre walk leads to the final and largest buttress; the triple-tiered Pyramid.
4 24m D. Climb the triple ridge direct.
Var. 1 The steep left flank of the first tier is HS 4b; but only if the large holds to the left and right are not used!
Var. 2 Almost a climb! 4 metres left of Var. 1; the crack system leads to the summit of the second tier, (S 4a).
Var. 3 The next crack system 6 metres left leads up to the "neck" between tiers 2 and 3, (MS).
Var. 4 Above and left of this neck a short, thin crack cleaves the left side of a steep wall, (HS 4b).
Var. 5 High up on the left of the buttress, the twin cracks are VD.
BJ Clarke (solo), 6th Nov 2007 |
LANGDALE
Slate Crag (West of the summit of Bowfell. GR 240 064) |
The crag is most logically reached via Stool End Farm and The Band. From Three Tarns, contour WNW above Hart Crag, then NW to the crag. About one and a half hours.
This is an idyllic venue in good weather with great views and bivi spots below the crag near Yeastyrigg Gill. It gets all the sun there is from midday onwards.
The crag seems to be dry after three rain-free days. The sections that stay wet longest have lines of backish moss/lichen. The routes avoid these, and some climb narrow clean areas between them.
As might be expected, there is some loose rock on ledges and the cliff-top. Most of the rock elsewhere on the routes is generally sound.
Slug Balancer and Handlebar Club finish through a short, low-angled 'moustache' of dwarf juniper, however, the gear is good immediately under the moustache and the bushes themselves are tough.
White Balance 40m M
An easy blunt rib towards the left end of the crag. Easily identified by a short rust-coloured streak at its base.
Stuart Halford (solo), 24th August 2007
1. Snail's Revenge 30m VD
A line which wanders and keeps the grade steady.
Alyn Griffiths, Stuart Halford, 26th August 2007
2. Did you kill that lad's 'awk? 25m S
A direct line a few metres right.
Stuart Halford, Alyn Griffiths, 26th August 2007
3. Squeeky Duck 25m HS
Climb direct just to the left of a black moss-streak. Sneak left at the finish up a short rib to avoid come loose rocks.
Stuart Halford, Phil Poole, 28th June 2007
4. Slug Balancer 25m HS
A direct line between two black moss-streaks. Good gear can be placed under the juniper 'moustache' before stepping through it.
Stuart Halford, Alyn Griffiths, 26th August 2007 |
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(All photos Stuart Halford)
|
5. Handlebar Club 25m HS
The next line right between black moss-streaks to the left and right. Good gear can be placed under the juniper 'moustache' before stepping through it.
Stuart Halford, Alyn Griffiths, 26th August 2007
6. Mollusc Juggler 25m S
Start alongside a blunt pinnacle at the base of the crag.
Bridge between the pinnacle and main face, then climb direct avoiding the widening moss-streak on its right.
Alyn Griffiths, Stuart Halford, 26th August 2007
7. Bulb's Route 25m MVS
(4b). Climb the slab and groove to a wide crack. Finish up this passing to the right of a pale square of rock.
Phil Poole, Stuart Halford, 28th June 2007
8. Cricket Route 20m VD
Climb the slab and crack on great rock to a ledge. Haul yourself up the corner to another ledge to finish.
Stuart Halford, Phil Poole, 28th June 2007 |
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|
LANGDALE
Shelter Crag (Addendum in
Langdale Guide – p380) |
|
General opinion
is that that this is a good venue, if rather a long way to walk.
Star Ratings have now been assigned.
A quick drying crag with rough, solid rock. The best
approach is from the Old Dungeon Ghyll, then follow Oxendale and
ascend beside Hell Gill to reach Buscoe Sike, from where the crag
can be seen. It can be approached directly, up the ghyll which
descends from it. However it is probably better to ascend the
fellside generally west-north-west to outflank on the right the
lowest rocky knolls, until grassy slopes (cairn), lead up leftwards
to beneath another knoll (via a table-like rock). Pass the knoll
on the right, to gain a shoulder at its top, where there are usually
three tiny dubs. A good vantage point to view the crag.
At the head
of the small combe a boulder shoot extends beneath an ill-defined
gully, Easy Gully. Overlooking it on the left (south) is
the Curtain an expanse of steep broken crag, bounded on
its left by the almost hidden Central Gully. Left of it
is Oxendale Buttress the first of the rock climbing sections.
Left again the fellside steps up to a grassy alp, above it is
the Sike, a mossy drainage line, and to its left is Buscoe
Buttress. Beyond this the fellside rises again, until a stepped
grassy corner, Shelter Corner, separates it from Whorney
Side Buttress which is the final section. All the main drainage
lines have been climbed in winter.
Ascend on
the right of the scree, then cross it (cairn) to about 10m beneath
the foot of the broken right hand section, from where a traverse
line leads directly to the toe of Oxendale Buttress.
Descend by
following the rake up left and then down the open fellside beyond
the crag (south), until it is possible to traverse back beneath
it.
Routes are
described from right to left.
Oxendale Buttress
Oxendale
Arete 77m VS
Follows the right hand arete of this buttress, interest is maintained
throughout.
Start 5 metres left of the right hand toe of the buttress, below
a shallow corner at a small glacis.
1 23m (4c). Climb directly up the rib on the right to a resting
place beneath a steep impending wall, at about 15m. Step to the
right, move up and make an awkward move up rightwards, ascend
to a ledge and step left to belay on the arete.
2 19m (4c). Step up into the sentry box on the left and pull up
awkwardly. Pull immediately right and up to regain the arete continue
up a right slanting groove, then move up left onto an easy angled
slab.
3 21m (4c). Move to the right end of the wall above and climb
a groove to land on a glacis, pull up out left strenuously into
a niche which leads onto an easy angled slab (top of a huge block).
Trend right across a slab and pull over overlaps to gain the large
ledge (the Circle). Belay on the right at the foot of the
open chimney, overlooking Central Gully.
4 14m (4c). Climb the right side of the open chimney (the left
hand crack is Thespian) and exit right near its top to
gain a ledge, ascend the easy angled arete to the top.
C Read, GL Swainbank (alt), 24th April 1999
Repeated by Simon Needham who says: Grade seems right (VS 4c,4c,4c,4c)
difficulties are short and sharp on each pitch. The final pitch
has a bit of wobbly rock on the right wall. I would say worth
between * and **. A
good crag overall it would seem - amazing that it waited so long
for development. OK it's a fair walk up to it, but not as much
of a slog as to some crags !
Thespian
72m VS
A direct line of sustained interest, good climbing and well protected.
Start at the same place as Oxendale Arete, at a shallow
corner with a short crack in its left side.
1 12m (4a). Climb the corner to reach an obvious large recess.
Step onto the left wall and ascend to a belay at the foot of the
left slanting slab.
2 30m (4c). From the right end of the slab move directly up, then
step right, and ascend to a groove. Move up left to beneath an
obvious hanging chimney/groove, climb it and move left. Ascend
the wall above trending right to enter a prominent groove and
climb it to gain a large ledge (the Balcony), scramble
up to belay beneath the foot of a wide crack, formed at the back
of a huge block (this is pitch 3 of Arkanum).
3 16m (5a). To the left of the wide crack is a leaning groove.
Climb this to its top and a good ledge, make a steep pull directly
up the short wall immediately above (as for Arkanum, which
can be done when wet) to gain the Circle.
4 14m (4c). Move to the right end of the ledge, to the foot of
an open chimney overlooking Central Gully. Climb the crack
up its left side which trends left and leads to the top.
C Read, GL Swainbank, (alt) 16th May 1999
Showtime
76m E1
Good climbing of sustained interest, low in the grade with good
protection, following the prominent right slanting corner at mid-height
on the buttress. Start 3m left of Oxendale Arete at the
foot of a clean wall.
1 14m (5a). Climb the wall to a thin crack, where a pull up and
left leads onto a large slab and stance.
2 30m (5a). From the top of the slab move left and climb the obvious
corner line, until a move right leads to beneath a large hollow
flake. Climb over it into the bottom of the rightward-leaning
corner, move right and climb its right wall to the foot of the
groove directly above it, which is climbed to gain the Balcony
(the groove on the right is Thespian). Block belays above
on the left.
3 15m (5b). Climb over blocks onto a slab in an overhung recess.
Pull up and right onto the steep wall and enter an open groove.
Ascend it to the Circle.
4 17m (4c). At the left side of the headwall is a short steep
corner topped by an overhang. Climb the corner, pulling out left
and ascend the groove above directly to the top.
GL Swainbank, C Read, (alt) 2nd May 1999
Max Biden notes:-
The hollow flake referred to on pitch 2 is dangerously loose.
A safer way of climbing this pitch is, from the bottom of the
flake, move right onto the steep wall and climb direct for 3 metres
to rejoin the original description where it climbs the right wall
of the groove to the foot of the groove above. Rod Edmonds
comments:-
Certainly worth ** or ***. A good E1; not low in the grade. Pitch
2 is the hardest and is 5b.
Arcanum
68m MVS*
Takes the arete forming the left side of the corner of Showtime.
Start about 7m to the left of that route, where the crag rises
up beside the steepening fellside, next to a short steep pillar
with a crack in its left side.
1 7m (4b). Ascend the left edge of the pillar, until a pull right
gains a small ledge. Move up and left to a large ledge.
2 30m (4a). From the right hand edge of the ledge move up and
swing round right into a recess. Move right again onto the arete
and follow it to a platform. Continue directly up, to pass a prominent
(hollow) blade of rock, on its right, then swing out right and
continue up to the Balcony. Scramble up to belay at the
foot of a wide crack, formed at the back of a huge block.
3 17m (4c). Climb the crack by its right wall to the ledge above,
move up left and make a steep pull up the short wall (as for Thespian,
which can be done when wet) to gain the Circle.
4 14m (4b). To the right is an open chimney overlooking Central
Gully, with a crack up its left side (pitch 4 of Thespian).
Start to its left at the right edge of the steep wall and ascend
directly until forced into the crack as it emerges from the chimney.
Move up and left to follow the broad rib to the top.
GL Swainbank, C Read, (alt) 25th July 1999
The next routes
are best reached by a horizontal traverse left beneath a broken
rocky bluff, then scramble up about 25 metres to a steep grassy
Alp. Above on the right is the left side of Oxendale Buttress
and to its left divided from it by the Sike, a mossy drainage
line, is Buscoe Buttress. Immediately right of the Sike,
at its foot, is a tiny hidden cave, the next climbs start beside
it.
Footlights
60m VD
Start 2m right of the cave at the foot of the obvious right slanting
gangway.
1 22m. Step across right to gain the slab at the foot of the gangway
and ascend it passing through a narrow section, until near the
top of the wider upper section where moves right lead up to belays
at the edge of the Balcony.
2 21m. Climb onto the easy angled slab above, step up left and
ascend diagonally leftwards to gain a small glacis, move out left,
then up directly to a thread belay in a corner at the left end
of a long grass ledge (the Circle).
3 17m. Ascend the crack directly above the corner and follow it
up the wall above, until a step up left leads to a short groove,
climb it to the top.
GL Swainbank, C Read, (alt) 3rd April 1999
Cloud Walker
48m E1*
Takes a line directly up the wall above the gangway of Footlights.
Good fingery climbing. Start at the same place as Footlights,
beneath a small square-cut overhang.
1 30m (5b). Climb up past the right side of the overhang and step
left above it. Trend right up a narrow slab to beneath a hanging
block and using this make a move up and left to surmount the bulge.
Move up and right then continue in a direct line up the slabby
wall, via thin twin cracks to reach a horizontal ledge. Step right
and ascend a short groove onto slabby blocks (junction with pitch
2 of Footlights). Move up left until beneath a short crack
in an open right trending corner, climb this to reach the Circle
and large block thread belays.
2 18m (4b). Move to the left end of the circle and climb the short
wall/rib between the corners of Showtime on the right and
Footlights on the left, to a sloping rock ledge. Ascend
the pleasant wall on the right, using holds on the arete to gain
the top.
GL Swainbank, C Read, (alt) 13th June 1999
Pleasure
Zone 46m E1**
Fine climbing up the open corner, formed between the slabby wall
above the gangway of Footlights and the steeper bulging
section just right of the Sike. Easy for the grade. Start
immediately right of the cave beneath a small square-cut overhang.
1 30m (5b). Climb the fault, passing the left end of the overhang
to a spike runner just above it. Move up then pull out left to
gain a sloping ledge. Ascend to an overhang beneath the bulging
wall, where a step right leads to the obvious rightward slanting
corner/groove, follow this and its continuation to a horizontal
ledge beneath a short steep wall split by a crack, climb it direct
to gain The Circle. Belay in the corner on the left at the same
place as pitch two of Footlights.
2 16m (5a). Step out left and up onto the large slab. The steep
narrow crack immediately above is followed to the top.
C Read, GL Swainbank, (alt) 13th June 1999
Subsequent ascentionists consider this is not “easy for the grade” as previously stated.
Gimme Shelter
46m E3 **
Climbs the parallel cracks up the bulging wall between Pleasure
Zone and Island of Dreams.
(6a). Start up one of the above climbs (probably best up Island)
to the sloping ledge in the middle of the wall. Follow Zone
to the roof then move right. Make precarious and committing moves
back left across the lip of the roof using the obvious undercut
spike to reach an incut finger jug (good wire). More taxing moves
lead to a good spike and rest. Continue slightly rightwards up
the scoop to the belay of Pleasure Zone. Finish up the
top pitch of Pleasure Zone, or ab off.
Martin Dale, Dave Wood, 31st May 2003
The fierce moves directly over the roof remain unclimbed- they
are well protected and will probably weigh in at 6b/c.
Island
of Dreams 46m E2**
Very good climbing, low in the grade, taking a line through the
steep section just right of the Sike. Start 2 metres left
of the cave at a short groove.
1 33m (5c). Climb straight up passing a doubtful spike to beneath
a small bulge, move right and up to gain a foothold on the wall.
Move left and up to the foot of a short steep hanging groove.
Climb it with difficulty to a resting place (the Island)
and continue up the vertical crack above, pulling out right at
its top. Follow the rightward slanting fault to a ledge and then
move left into a short capped groove, pull up left out onto a
sloping ledge and ascend more easily to block belays.
2 13m (4b). Ascend directly onto the top of the large block and
climb the vertical fault line above to a ledge. The short thin
crack directly ahead leads to the top.
C Read, GL Swainbank (alt) 29th July 1999
Subsequent ascentionists consider this not “low in the grade” as previously stated.
Buscoe Buttress
The following routes are on Buscoe Buttress to the left
of the Sike.
Rumplestiltskin
57 m
E1*
Takes a line
up into the prominent groove, on the right edge of Buscoe Buttress, immediately left of the Sike. Interesting climbing, low in the grade and well protected. The
route is still a little grimy in places and the grade given takes
account of that fact. Start 2 metres right of Diplodocus.
1 40 m (5b).
Ascend directly to twin rightward slanting cracks, bridge
up and pull right, then up to gain the cleft above. Climb up to
enter the slender groove on the right, follow it to it’s top,
where a swing out left gains the wall above. Continue direct to
a ledge, then up a short wall to thread belays above.
2 17 m. Climb over the belays, step left and
ascend easy rocks to the top (as for pitch two of Diplodocus).
C Read, BR Shackleton,
WAF Gladstone, 7th May 2000
Diplodocus
57m HVS**
Steep strenuous climbing directly up the buttress, on the right
of the obvious corner line of Moonstruck. Start about 5
metres left of the Sike at a rightward slanting open groove.
1 37m (5b). Climb the groove to its top (6 metres) where a pull
up and left leads into a second rightward slanting groove, climb
this to beneath an overhang and pull out left into a niche. Climb
straight up towards the corner above and a junction with Moonstruck.
Move out right onto the arete, then up to enter a short groove.
Climb the wall above trending left to block belays.
2 20m. Scramble rightwards up the grass ledge to the foot of a
narrow rib, follow it to the top, passing the right side of the
headwall.
C Read, GL Swainbank, (alt) 11th July 1999
Upgraded since Langdale guide.
Moonstruck
60m E1**
Takes the obvious rightward slanting corner line starting 8 metres
left of the Sike. A very good climb, low in the grade.
1 40m (5b). Climb directly into the corner following it as it
curves right, to gain entry directly into the groove above, move
up and left to follow a series of grooves to reach block belays
on the edge of the large ledge above.
2 20m (5a). Scramble up to the foot of the steep headwall. Climb
directly up to gain and follow the crack near the right edge,
then step left and up to reach the top.
C Read, GL Swainbank, (alt) 1st May 1999
Panjandrum
63m E1**
Takes a line up the crest of the buttress on the edge overlooking
the corner of Moonstruck. Very good, steep and well protected
climbing. Start at the lowest point of the buttress, where easy
angled slabby rocks protrude from the foot of the crag.
1 20m (5b). Climb directly up towards the bottom of a shallow
hanging groove. Gain and climb this, then continue up the faultline
on the edge, to a stance and spike belays.
2 23m (5b). Climb directly above the stance and then move rightwards
above the overhung corner of Moonstruck, ascend strenuously
to gain a groove. Step left onto a rib and follow this to block
belays
3 20m (5a). As for the second pitch of Moonstruck, follow
the crack near the right edge of the headwall, then step left
and up to reach the top.
C Read, GL Swainbank, (alt) 31st July 1999
Panjandrum - Variation to Pitch 2
(5a). From the stance, move up, then left and climb the rib
(on El Caballo) to a scoop. Continue in the same line (slightly
rightwards that is), up a shallow groove by delicate climbing
to rejoin the rib on pitch 2 as described in the guide.
Simon Needham, Denise Forster, 7th August 2005
Who also say "Overall,
a very good route, well worth **".
El Caballo
60m E1
Gains and follows a series of grooves in the front face of the
buttress. Start 6 metres left of the toe of the buttress at the
point where the fellside steepens and rises up beside the crag.
1 40m (5b). Climb a short rib to a ledge at 3m and a flake/block
runner on the left. Move up and right onto the steep wall to gain
and follow the line of a very thin crack to a small ledge above.
Continue directly to the bottom of a prominent V-recess, climb
the rib on its right and move left to the bottom of two obvious
V-grooves. Climb the right-hand one and then pull left into the
stepped corner, follow it to block belays on the edge of the large
ledge above.
2 20m (5a). Scramble up to the foot of the steep headwall. Climb
diagonally left to a steep crack. Using this enter the groove
above and follow it to the top.
GL Swainbank, C Read, (alt) 2nd May 1999
The next two
routes begin by scrambling up the fellside on the left, until
beneath the long narrow slab, which steepens into a headwall,
split by an obvious crack. At the foot of the slab is a short
steep wall, with obvious spike belays.
Lone Star
60m HVS
Follows the obvious groove line in the slab. Pleasant climbing
with a definite crux section.
1 25m (4a). Climb steeply up the wall trending right, step back
left to gain the groove. Follow it to a stance in a recess, at
the point where the crag steepens.
2 35m (5a). Ascend the steep shallow and awkward groove line above
the stance, to gain a ledge. Move up right past a large perched
block and from it pull up left to enter another groove in the
headwall. Climb it until moves out left lead up to a ledge. Step
up to the rocky rake.
GL Swainbank, C Read, (alt) 3rd April 1999
Baker San
58m E1
Takes the slab and prominent crack above. Varied and interesting
climbing throughout. Start at the same place as Lone Star.
1 35m (5b). Climb directly up the steep wall via a thin crackline
and from its top move left onto the clean slab, follow it until
towards its top where moves lead rightwards to enter a small recess
at about 25 metres, where the rock steepens into a wall. Pull
up and left onto a slabby ramp, move up to join a short wide steep
crack. Pull up the crack and make a move out right, then up, to
a poor stance, beneath a tiny cave.
2 23m (5a). Above on the left is a wide hanging crack. Enter it
awkwardly and climb it to the top.
C Read, GL Swainbank (alt) 1st June 1999
Upgraded since Langdale guide.
Whorney
Side Buttress
Amateur
Dramatics 30m E1
Start at the
toe of the buttress.
(5b). Ascend
to a small overlap and surmount this following a small flake crack.
Take a small corner on its left and continue more easily.
Adam Swainbank,
J Hogg, 3rd August 1999
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LANGDALE
Blisco Summit (269 042) |
|
Pale Cheeks
Clean rough rock and a sunny situation on a ledge about 150 metres
west of, and 250 metres below Blisco Summit.
The Blisco
Dash 8m E1
(5b). Climb the centre of the highest wall. Great moves on layaways
easing towards the top. No gear but a good landing.
M Bagness, D Duxbury, (Both Solo) July 2004
Many other
good problems (4a-5c) have been done, all by Martin Bagness.
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LANGDALE
Black Crag (p255) |
|
West Face
An Evening
with Friends 7m E1
The route takes the right arete of the large corner below The
Prow.
(5c). Climb the arete, using holds mainly on the left side, to
a long reach right to finsh direct up the arete.
Ian Almond (on-sight solo), 30th May 2004
May
have been climbed before.
Just
a Minute 12m VS *
Above
and right of Doberman is an undercut block.
(5a). Pull up (crux) into a short, left-facing corner. Move up
to a thin crack then traverse right and finish up a shallow groove.
Karl Lunt, Tony Madden,
10th July 2005
South
Face
Jolly
Roger: independent opinions say this is under graded at HS - at
least MVS (4b) maybe more. Note from Jim Cooper.
Second
Generation E3
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