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Last Updated: 12/4/2008

	Latest New Routes & Comments New routes in the order that they are submitted, with the newest at the top. For comments, please see the area page.
		FELL and ROCK CLIMBING CLUB of the English Lake District

A Plea for Photographs

Photos of crags in good light in summer are needed for the next editions of all our guides. Please contact the FRCC Guidebook Photographs Editor if you think you have any such photos (in any format). Needless to say any good action photos would also be well received - for these we need to know: crag, route, grade, pitch, name of climber, name of photographer. You don't get paid I'm afraid, but you will get a free guidebook if we use any of your pictures!

LAKE DISTRICT
Loose Rock Warnings

Please check our Loose Rock Warnings page for the latest information.

ESKDALE
Great Bank (p333)

Area D Ten Weeks to Go 17m E5 ** A good route on excellent clean rock. Soft for that grade. Climbs the obvious nose via the roof and groove. Start beneath a long fin to the left of the ivy. (6b). Climb the fin followed by the left hand side of the roof to gain a large jug by a peg. Move up the groove with difficulty to an excellent wire placement, followed by the thin cracks and grooves, keeping to the left. Will Sim (unseconded), 8th April 2008 Top-roped prior to leading. Will notes that the relatively new deer fences can easily be walked around with a detour of about 200 metres further along the forestry track on either side. This isn't obvious and the fence wire is already broken in a few places, (not sure whether this is climbers or not?). Below: Will Sims on the first ascent of Ten Weeks to Go (E5). Photo: John Eccles.

WESTERN OUTCROPS
Clint Scar (005 128)

The scar is located just west of the A595, Egremont to Bigrigg section. It is easily reached from the lay-by just above Egremont cricket ground. Park in the lay-by and discreetly cross the fence into a field, walk northwards along the field boundary, through a gate and then leftwards across the next field, from here the crag comes into view and is quickly reached. Total Time: 5 minutes

The sunny aspect of the crag, combined with easy access makes it a pleasant venue for a short visit for anybody operating around the Severe to HVS level. The crag is a 10 metres high natural limestone scar, the rock is clean and quick drying and extensive weathering has resulted is some superb features. All of the routes follow strong natural lines and can be well protected with a good selection of nuts.

Hidden amongst trees the scar has avoided attention until recently, most of the routes were first climbed during the summer of 2005 by Chris Fisher. Development of the left tier took place over March 2008.

1	Sunshine Arete	6m	D	5	Tree Groove	10m	S
2	Ivy Wall	8m	HS	6	Northern Rock	10m	HVS (5c) *
3	Daisy Crack	9m	MVS (4c) *	7	Tooler's Crack	10m	VS (5a) **
4	Pocket Pleasure	9m	HVS (5b)	8	Fisher's Folly	19m	VS (4c) *

9	Mucky Corner	10m	M
10	Roof Route	9m	HVS (5a)
11	Imagination Overdrive	9m	E1 (5b) *

Sunshine Arete, Chris Fisher (solo), 2005
Ivy Wall, Chris Fisher (solo), 2005
Daisy Crack, Chris Fisher (solo), 2005
Tree Groove, Chris Fisher (solo), 2005
Tooler's Crack, Chris Fisher (solo), 2005
Mucky Corner, Chris Fisher (solo), 2005, possibly climbed before
Pocket Pleasure, Chris Fisher (solo), 2007
Northern Rock, Chris Fisher (solo), 2007
Fisher's Folly, Chris Fisher (solo), 2007
Roof Route, Chris Fisher (solo), 31st March 2008
Imagination Overdrive, Chris Fisher (solo), 31st March 2008

DUDDON
Low Crag (p213)

Heatherless Groove 14m S
The clean rightward-facing groove between Heather Groove and Andy's Rib. Gain the crack in the slab from the left then continue up the groove and slabs to the top.
Tom Walkington,Cliff Brown, 18th March 2008

EASTERN CRAGS
Red Screes North Cove (p349)

Easter Gully 60m I
Start at the top of an obvious snow/scree fan, 250m right of the descent gully and follow the winding gully to finish on the summit ridge. Fun.
BP Hopton (solo), 24th March 2008

SCAFELL
Pikes Crag (p145)

Grand Slam 110m IV **
This route held a good deal of snow when the buttress routes on either side of it were black.
1 40m (5). Start at the bottom of Right of Centre, move up the snow slope on the right and climb the groove at it's top. Follow the groove, initially steep, then easing slightly, then steep again to a belay in cracks on the left wall below a continuation chimney.
2 40m (5). Climb up a short ramp above and slightly right of the belay, and continue up into the rightward-trending chimney above. Follow this to a chockstone. Move up to this and then pull out steeply onto the right arete overlooking the chimney. Continue straight up to a large spike belay. (These pitches had great mixed climbing on frozen turf, snow, good hooks and occasional torque. They have plentiful rock protection.)
3 30m (3). Climb up and left over turfy ledges to gain a rightwards-facing corner. A couple of steeper moves gain entry to this, which is then followed to the top of the crag.
Huw Davies, Nigel Gregory, Mark Holt, 25th March 2008.

EDEN VALLEY
Middle Busk Scar, Orton Fells (OS Sheet 91, GR 682 092)

Magnificently situated 2 km north of Sunbiggin Tarn and 5 km east of Orton, this tiny, south-facing, extensive scar offers many boulder problems on juggy limestone.

Park just below the summit of the Middle Busk road at a public footpath sign and walk north towards the scar, where the only landmarks are a tree and a bush.

Grades are UK tech grades, or trad grades for the easier stuff.

1 (4c) 1. The first problem lies 5 metres left of the bush and climbs the left side of the wall in a grassy defile.
2 (4a). The buttress in front via a sloping ledge.
Further left, and 25 metres left of the tree is a wall with a horizontal crack, just before the rocks dwindle.
3 (4a). The flaky crack on the right.
4 (4a). The wall just left.
5 (VD). The pillar 2 metres left.

160 metres further left is another tree which indicates a pleasantly sheltered area, with many delights; the Hidden Garden.

6 (VD). 7 metres left of the tree is a wide crack.
7 (VD). The arete just left.
8 (4a). Climb the left side of the steep wall 4 metres left.
9 (4a). 2 metres left, climb the central crack.
10 (4c). The leaning face on the left.
11 (4b). Climb the thin cracks 12 metres left at the left side of a wall, stepping right at the top to avoid the "crumble".
12 (4c). The arete on the left is very good, but only if you avoid the boulder.
13 (4c). The shelving wall 5 metres left.
14 (4b). the thin crack on the arete, 3 metres left.
15 (5a). The Leaning Tower 12 metres left.

Behind the Leaning Tower are yet more delights!
16 (4a). The thin crack 2 metres right of a shrubby tree.
17 (MS). The wall and arete just left.
18 (MS). The crack 4 metres left.

8 metres left, behind a tilted block is a fine wall. The right side is (VD) 19, the thin crack and shrubby ramp is also (VD) 20; whilst the section just left is (MS) 21.

Just behind and left is another fine juggy wall.
The right side is (VD) 22, whilst the left arete is (S) 23.

22 metres further left is a blanker wall with a sinuous crack in its lower part.

24 (5a). Climb it.
25 (4a). Up the steep wall 7 metres left.

All recorded by BJ Clarke, 2008.

EDEN VALLEY
King's Meaburn

3 metres right of D'apple Arete, the niche and thin crack above give an awkward little climb, Shrinking Crack (5m, S 4a, 2008).
BJ Clarke (solo) 9th March 2008

Puss in Boots 20m HVS 2008
An exceedingly fine rising traverse across the Ivy Crack wall. Mainly straightforward climbing, but with two bold, serious sections. Start at the foot of TD Corner.
(5a). Climb the corner for 3 metres, then foot traverse the obvious ledge rightwards, past an awkward section, until an ascent up and right leads to the ledge below the finishing crack of Smiling Through. With hands on the rounded, but dimpley break, traverse horizontally right to within 2 metres of the right arete of the wall. Climb the wall above, finishing rightwards.
BJ Clarke, Tanya Coates, 1st March 2008

LANGDALE
SE Facet of Pike of Stickle (GR 273 073)

Sugar Beat 30m VS 2008
Interesting climbing through the bulges immediately right of Loafer Rib. Start as for that climb.
1 15m (4b). Climb up the rounded rib and gain a recess. Step right and pull over a bulge to reach a mossy groove, up this to a ledge with poor spike belays.
2 15m. Climb the wall to the right of the prow above to easier ground and the top.
BJ Clarke (solo) 19th Feb 2008

Beet Route 29m MVS 2008
3 metres right of Loafer Rib an indefinite crack-line slants rightwards through several small bulges.
1 15m (4b). Follow the crack-line to a small ledge, step left and climb a pale slab to a ledge with poor spike belays.
2 14m. Move up easily right; step off a block and follow the quartzy wall rightwards to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo) 19th Feb 2008

LANGDALE
Stone Age Crag - Pike of Stickle (GR 272 069)

Age Hold 15m VS 2008
Interesting, technical climbing starting 14 metres up and left of Bygone at a right-slanting line leading to a ramp.
(4b). Follow the right-slanting line and ramp to finish as for Flintstone.
BJ Clarke (solo) 19th Feb 2008

Glancing Blow 16m S 2008
A pleasant start leads to a deflected finish! Start 7 metres up and left of Bygone at a rounded rib.
(4a). Climb the rib to a rightwards-slanting heathery break. Follow this right for 5 metres and climb a short wall to a ledge. Finish up the wall above as for Bygone.
BJ Clarke (solo) 19th Feb 2008

LANGDALE
Harrison Stickle (p 126)

Primavera 75m VD 2008
A direct, fairly continuous climb up the south face of the dome-shaped buttress directly below the summit, easily seen from the path via Pike Howe.
Start at the foot of a ridge of white slabs projecting from the base of the buttress below its right side, cairn. The South Central Buttress scramble ( Vol 1 Scrambles in the Lake District), takes this ridge.
1 50m. Climb the left flank of the ridge via a steeper section until blocks lead to a steep buttress. Follow this directly up its left edge to a small grassy terrace and a block belay. A fine, lofty perch!
2 25m. Pull up the steep rib on the right, and continue up the shallow groove. Step left and finish up an arete and pale slab above.
A pleasant ramble up the slabby rocks on the left leads to the summit cairn in 60 metres.
Re-discovered BJ Clarke (solo) 19th Feb 2008

BORROWDALE
Christmas Crag (p 177)

One Horse Open 17m S 2007
The route starts 3 metres left of Sleigh Ride and is a cleaner version of that climb.
(4a). Climb a blocky crack, then move up right using a hollow, spiky flake to gain a crinkly rib. Climb this to merge with Sleigh Ride . Avoid the heathery trough above by stepping left and finishing up the pleasant, rounded slab and rib.
BJ Clarke, (solo) 17th Dec 2007

EASTERN CRAGS
Red Tarn Cove (p288)

Gully 2, Left Hand Finish 100m II *
Half-way up Gully 2 is a broad groove, steeper than the main line, which breaks left up a series of turfy steps. Follow these until the groove broadens and becomes less steep onto the summit slopes to emerge south of the summit shelter.
This has been climbed a billion times before but isn't recorded in the new winter guide - so bagsy! (Er, I mean, here it is for the record).
Colin Wells 17th December 2007

LANGDALE
Lightning Crag (p266)

The following routes start 15 metres below and left of Fat Boys Crack on the wall, which has Flash in the Pan up the centre.

The large crack that defines the left end of the crag was soloed by Martin Scrowston but it was not felt long enough to be recorded as a new line grade S

5. Royal Flush 9m E1 (5a/b). Climb the left arête steep delicate climbing adequate protection Martin Scrowston. Dave Till, Paul C Bennett, Jim Loxham, 7th September 2007 4. Running Flush 9m VS Just left of the previous crack is another crack. (4c). Climb this direct to the top; well protected. Paul C Bennett, Jim Loxham , Martin Scrowston, Dave Till, 7th September 2007 3. Flush 9m VS (4c). About 2 metres left of Flash in the Pan is a crack - climb this direct to the top, well protected. Paul C Bennett, Jim Loxham , Martin Scrowston, Dave Till 7 September 2007 Flash in the Pan 9m E1 5c * Start 15 metres below and left of Fat Boys Crack. (5c). The thin crack up the centre of the wall is tricky but well protected with the crux at the top. Karl Lunt, Tony Madden, 9th July 2005

1. Ace High 9m VS 4b (4b). Right of Flash in the Pan is a crack going up the wall rightwards, follow this to the top. Paul C Bennett, Jim Loxham, Martin Scrowston, Dave Till, 7th September 2007 2. Pair of Kings 9m S Between Ace High and the right arête, climb the wall direct on good rough rock. Paul C Bennett, Jim Loxham , Martin Scrowston, Dave Till, 7th September 2007 The right arête (6) was soloed by Paul C Bennett but felt it was too close to Pair of Kings to be recorded as a separate line; grade VD.

LANGDALE
Long Scar (p264)

The following routes start at the far right side of the crag. 1. Jura VS Three metres m up and left of the toe of the buttress is a crack. (4c). Follow this direct and finish up the wall above. Martin Scrawston, Paul C Bennett 2. Islay VD Just left of the toe of the buttress and about one metre up is a corner-crack. Climb this for about 5 metres until it steepens then break out right up crack/groove and finish up the wall above on the right. Paul C Bennett (solo)

3. Tiree M Just right of the toe of the buttress, climb the pleasant slab direct to the top. Jim Loxham , Martin Scrawston, Paul C Bennett 4. Coll M About one metre right of the toe of the buttress is an imbedded flake in the ground the climb starts here. Climb directly up the slab to the top keeping right of the leftward-slanting crack at about 8 metres. Paul C Bennett (solo) All the above four routes were climbed on 11th July 2006 (probably done before)

DUDDON
Low Crag (p213)

Fair Bird 13m VD/MS
Just left of Pigling Bland, climb a narrow slab with a small overlap about 2 metres up.
Paul C Bennett (solo), 6th May 2006

DUDDON
Red How (252 029 Alt 600m South facing)

Beanpole 6m HVS
(5a/b).To the right and round the corner of Snake is a narrow wall; climb this direct on good but small positive holds.
Paul C Bennett (solo), 30th April 2006

DUDDON
Brandy Crag (225 989) Alt 350m SE Facing

One for the Coccyx 15m VD
About 30m across and up left from the bottom left of Brandy Crag is a narrow piece of rock.
Start at the toe of the easy angled slab and climb this direct to where it steepens then continue up the left rounded arête to the top.
Paul C Bennett (solo), 19th June 2007

Shipping News 25m E1
Start 4 metresright of Weatherman at the foot of a left-slanting rib which leans against the crag. Very nice climbing.
(5a). Climb the rib, or better bridge up the groove to a large jammed flake. Make bold moves up the wall to reach the diagonal crack (runners). Follow the crack its entirety to merge with the upper section of Weatherman, which is followed to the top.
Paul C Bennett, Jim Loxham, Martin Scrowston, 19th June 2007

Curving Crack 20m MVS Start 12 metres right of Weatherman at a thin cleaned curving crack, which is 2 metres left of Grooved Arête. Well protected. (4b). Climb the crack direct to the the parallel diagonal cracks. Take the lower crack rightwards into the corner. Up this onto a rib on the left to a junction with Weatherman, which is followed to the top. Paul C Bennett, Jim Loxham, Martin Scrowston, 19th June 2007 Paul Bennett on the first ascent of Curving Crack (Jim Loxham)

LANGDALE
SE Facet of Pike of Stickle (GR ??? ??? )

Just below the summit and facing towards Gimmer Crag, this sunny facet of rock is steeper than the slabbier SW and W faces; although still plagued by ledges in its upper reaches. Its lofty elevation compensates somewhat! The two routes so far start from a grassy terrace, gained by a tricky traverse from the right.

Loafer Rib 34m HS 2007
Towards the left side of the facet a slanting, one metre high pinnacle block stands on the terrace (not to be confused with a more prominent pinnacle 25 metres to the left on a ridge). Start opposite the pinnacle block, cairn.
1 16m (4a). Follow a ramp up left for 3 metres, pull up the steep, rough wall, then trend leftwards to gain an arete. Climb this to a ledge with poor spike belays.
2 18m. Scramble up the right-slanting ramp for 4 metres; then step left to a ledge. Climb the steep wall above, gradually easing to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007
Descent:- Up to the summit, then follow walker's paths east to the col and the start of the tricky traverse.

Ruby Slab 25m HS 2007
Fifteen metres right of the pinnacle block on the terrace a vegetated crack slants up rightwards, with an attractive red-hued slab on its right. Start directly below this slab.
(4a). Climb a short wall and continue up the red-hued slab, where rough rock has to compensate for the lack of protection! Paler slabs above lead to more broken rock and the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007

LANGDALE
Stone Age Crag (GR 272 069)

75 metres right of the large scree gully leading up the right side of Pike of Stickle to the man-made cave is a fine, slabby wall slanting up the hillside. It lies just below where the scree gully becomes better defined; a group of spindly birch trees above and left of the wall gives another landmark. The rock is interesting; a fascinating juxtaposition of granitic roundness and Gimmer jugginess, giving a myriad of move-types.

Flintstone 15m S 2007
Start 2 metres right of the lowest point (right-hand) of the wall, below a flake crack formed by a pinnacle; cairn.
(4a). Climb the flake crack and continue up the rib to a steepening. Step right and pull onto a ledge. Continue up the easier rib to the top and awkward spike and nut belays 4 metres above.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007

Bygone 16m VS 2007
Start at the lowest point of the wall at a block on the ground; 2 metres left of Flintstone.
(4b). Pull over a series of small bulges to gain a shallow groove. Up this and the slab above to reach a layback corner. Climb this, and the wall on the left to reach the finish of Flintstone.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007

Stone Age 16m S 2007
Thirty metres up and left of Bygone, and 9 metres right of the left-bounding ridge of the crag are two left-slanting faults running up the wall. Start below the right-hand fault and just left of a heathery corner.
(4a). Climb the right-hand left-slanting fault to an impasse below two thin cracks cleaving a steep wall. Overcome this by a series of miraculous holds just left; before continuing up an indefinite crack line to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007

Ice Age 15m MVS 2007
More nice climbing, starting 3 metres left of Stone Age at a rock step in the grass.
(4b). Climb the pleasant wall on good holds to reach the left-hand left-slanting fault. Follow this, and its thin crack continuation to a rounded ledge. Move up, step right and finish up the short walls.
BJ Clarke (solo), 23rd Nov 2007

EDEN VALLEY
King's Meaburn

Scoota 6m HS 2007
3 metres right of Near Tree Corner is an attractive shallow groove.
(4b). Climb it; with more difficulty than is apparent!
BJ Clarke (solo), 17th Nov 2007

Huggable 6m VS 2007
(4c). Takes the fine arete one metre right of Scoota to a thought-provoking finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 25th Nov 2007

LANGDALE
Gimmer Crag (p 165)

Topaz 40m HVS 2007
An eliminate, giving fine and bold climbing up the walls delineating "E" Route. The protection is poor where it matters, necessitating precise route-finding. Start as for Oliverson's Variation.
1 16m (4c). Climb direct to a ledge, then step left and follow the shallow crack/groove line to the terrace above pitch 2 "E" Route.
2 24m (4c). Move right along the terrace and pull up onto a ledge in a shallow recess (situated about 2 metres right of the crack on pitch 3 of "E" Route. Move up again, and follow a slightly ascending rightwards traverse below a rounded bulge to reach the base of Lichen Chimney. Up this for 4 metres, then step left to gain a ledge below a scooped slabby wall. Climb this to the rock staircase on "A" Route, and follow this to an alcove below the finishing corner crack of that route. A stiff pull out of the right side of the alcove leads to better holds and the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 15th Nov 2007

The Crimson Pirate 41m VS 2007
An eliminate, giving good, direct climbing up the rib above the ABCE wall. Start as for "E" Route.
1 18m (4b). After 5 metres, climb the shallow groove one metre left of the obvious overhang. Cross Oliverson's Variation and continue up a further groove to gain the rib proper. Follow this direct, climbing the right edge of the small crimson-coloured corner; until moves up and right lead to a belay at the top of the Forty Foot Corner .
2 23m (4a). Step up left and climb the leftwards-slanting shallow groove to reach the top of Lichen Chimney. Enter the green corner directly above and follow it for 3 metres; until a traverse right leads to a shallow recess. Climb the wall above to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo) 15th Nov 2007

Gambol 22m MVS 2007
Despite the rather brittle rock in its lower reaches, this is an interesting little route taking the slabs and overlap left of Cartwheel. Start 3 metres up and left of that climb at a thin crack.
(4b). Climb the thin crack and move up and leftwards to the overlap. Pull through this at the main weakness, then step left onto the nose and follow the thin diagonal cracks leftwards, past a steepening, to reach a ledge. Two slabby walls above and slightly left lead pleasantly to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo) 15th Nov 2007

BORROWDALE
Christmas Crag (p 177)

Upper Tier

White 9m VS 2007
(4b). Start as for Tinsel Trail but step left and climb the left side of the mossy groove, to a finish up the left arete. A distinct lack of good holds and protection throughout!
BJ Clarke (solo), 9th Nov 2007

Lower Tier

Troika 16m MVS 2007
An interesting and quite bold companion route to Royal Oak. Start 2 metres right of that climb.
1 8m (4b). Climb the easy-angled rib, then follow the steep left-slanting crack cutting across the ridged pinnacle face.
2 8m (4a). Follow the leftwards-trending ramp with some delicacy to a ledge; from where two steep walls lead to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 9th Nov 2007

The delectable slab at the right-hand end of the Lower Tier, 15 metres right of Royal Oak is Plum Duff (8m, MS, 2007).
BJ Clarke (solo), 9th Nov 2007

LANGDALE
Raven Crag, Walthwaite (p 37)

The following routes have been discovered, partly as a result of removing the offending holly branch at the top of Walthwaite Gully, which blocked/spoiled the finish to that route.  I am further informed that the offending falling branch also took off an area of bramble which uncovered a new area of rock.  With the exception of Demeter, all of the following climbs may suffer from wet starts, as was the case of the weekend of the first ascents and while this detracts from the initial climbing all the routes are possible despite the oft wet starts and provide a worthwhile addition to the selection of routes on Raven Crag Walthwaite.

Demeter 27m HVS    
Starts one metre right of Walthwaite Gully, to the left of an obvious large groove and provides steep enjoyable climbing with adequate protection.
(5a). Follow the line of the groove, mainly by the left bounding wall and its left arête, to finish to the right of the holly tree.
Martin Scrowston, Mike Hope, 8th November 2007

Phorcys 27m E1      
A harder companion route to Demeter, direct and on good rock, with adequate protection.  Start directly behind a small Hawthorn, 3 mtres right of Walthwaite Gully.
(5a/5b). Climb the wall to the right of the dirty groove to the overhang; pull through this direct via an obvious square topped spike.  Easier climbing then follows keeping immediately to the right of the groove-line of Demeter.
Martin Scrowston, Mike Hope, 8th November 2007

River Boat Gambler Direct 25m VS    4c      
Good and well protected direct climbing up the wall to the left of River Boat Gambler upper groove.  Start as for River Boat Gambler.
(4c). Climb direct up the wall, via a bulge and following a vague crack line (seen from below) and passing a suspect flake to its right side.
Martin Scrowston, Jim Loxham, 9th November 2007

De-Tritus 25m VS        
Much better than it looks and should improve, though the start is often wet.  The route follows the obvious large groove contained in the upper part of the crag.  Start below the groove, 3 metres right of River Boat Gambler.
(4c/5a). Climb the oft wet wall past a small sapling, keeping a downward tongue of vegetation on your left.  Move up and left into the groove, which is followed to the top and is not without interest on the final section.
Martin Scrowston, Jim Loxham, 9th November 2007

LANGDALE
Pyramid Ridge (GR 248 062)

The steep, scree-ridden path from the Three Tarns col to Bowfell summit is bordered on its right side by four slabby buttresses forming a discontinuous ridge. Their steeper left flanks provide a myriad of variants, only the most obvious are described. Although this area is briefly mentioned in Vol 1 of Scrambles in the Lake District, the rocks seem to be crackling pristine. Everywhere the climbing is pleasant on clean, rough, sun-drenched rock. The ridge will "go" throughout the year. Indeed, ice climbers visiting on a cloudless/windless mid-Winter's day will probably regret not bringing their rock shoes and chalk bags instead of axes and crampons.

Pyramid Ridge 60m VD/HS 2007
120 metres up and 10 metres right of the path from the Three Tarns col is the first slabby buttress, characterized by spiky flakes at half height. Start at its foot, cairn.
1 15m VD. Climb the slabby buttress past the flakes to the top.
Var. 1 The thin crack on the left flank is MS.

A short distance above is the next laid-back buttress.

2 15m VD. Climb the buttress direct to an inclined platform below a beautifully-stratified wall.
Var. 1 The curving groove on the left flank is VD.
Var. 2 The steep white wall just right is MS.
Var. 3 The scooped groove 6 metres left of the curving groove is S 4a.

3 6m MS. On the statified wall; climb the shallow crack just right of the arete.
Var. 1 The arete on its left side and joining it near the top is HS 4b.
Var. 2 The crack system just left is MS.

A 20 metre walk leads to the final and largest buttress; the triple-tiered Pyramid.

4 24m D. Climb the triple ridge direct.
Var. 1 The steep left flank of the first tier is HS 4b; but only if the large holds to the left and right are not used!
Var. 2 Almost a climb! 4 metres left of Var. 1; the crack system leads to the summit of the second tier, (S 4a).
Var. 3 The next crack system 6 metres left leads up to the "neck" between tiers 2 and 3, (MS).
Var. 4 Above and left of this neck a short, thin crack cleaves the left side of a steep wall, (HS 4b).
Var. 5 High up on the left of the buttress, the twin cracks are VD.
BJ Clarke (solo), 6th Nov 2007

EDEN VALLEY
King's Meaburn

Six metres right of Scoop Crack is an obvious corner, Near Tree Corner (S), which is climbed to a rightwards exit at the top. A further 4 metres right is an easier corner, Falling Leafs (VD). The off-width cleft 3 metres right is mercifully short, Wriggletto (VD), limb it, (the Butterfly stroke seems best), although two internal holds help.
All BJ Clarke (solo), 4th Nov 2007

BORROWDALE
Christmas Crag (p 177)

Soda Stream 9m MVS 2007
Neat climbing on good holds, until the final move!
(4b). Start as for Tinsel Trail, but continue direct up the wall and arete; keeping just right of a mossy groove.
BJ Clarke (solo), 27th Oct 2007

LANGDALE
Flat Crags (p 214)

St. Luke 35m HVS 2007
A varied, interesting but serious route taking the easy-looking slabby walls at the left-hand side of the crag. Start 6 metres left of Mary Ann at the mossy cave.
1 12m (4c). Climb the right wall of the cave and enter the chimney above. Squirm up this to belays at its top.
2 6m (4a). Step right and descend a gangway to gain a grassy bay. Hidden spike belay on the wall above.
3 17m (4c). Move up the steep little wall just right of the belay; then cross the unprotected slabby wall rightwards, ascending slightly, to gain a small bay below a short corner. Up the corner to a blocky ledge, from where a short arete on the right leads to the top. Spike and nut belays 5 metres back.
BJ Clarke (solo), 24th Oct 2007
Notes:- The name is a celebration of this enduring summer weather! Apparently, if good weather lasts into Sept and Oct Then we have a "St. Luke's Summer; hence the expression "Lukewarm". Only if it lasts into Nov and Dec can it be an "Indian Summer".
The top 6 metres of the route is more or less common to the winter version (1999) of Mary Ann.

LANGDALE
Pike Howe (NY 289 069)

This fine miniature pike has two rock facets, south-west and south-east; divided by a pale overhanging wall with a slanting groove on its left-hand side (uncanningly resembling Shifter, Burnt Crag, Duddon).
The south-east facet is steeper and compact, but mossy. The south-west area is more broken, but protruding buttresses have provided a few opportunities which may be worth the 30 minute walk.

Eustacia Vye 18m HS 2007
Start 14 metres down and left of the pale overhanging wall at the left-hand and cleanest of a series of ribs.
1 9m. Climb the rib and follow easier ground to a terrace. Block belay on the right below a slab split by a thin crack.
2 9m (4a). Climb a subsidiary block and continue up the thin crack in the slab to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 20th Oct 2007

Orford Buttress 14m VD 2007
25 metres left of Eustacia Vye a slab slants left under an overhang. Start below the right-hand end of the overhang at a small rib.
Ascend rightwards past a flake to gain the foot of the buttress on the right. Follow this pleasantly to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 20th Oct 2007

Senta's Rib 15m S 2007
Ten metres left of Orford Buttress, at a higher level, is a two tier arete, identified at its base by a small block overhang, cut by a thin crack on its left.
(4a). Climb the thin crack and continue up the aretes to the top. Nice climbing.
BJ Clarke (solo), 20th Oct 2007

Pamina's Pillar 13m MVS 2007
The final, and shortest rib lies a further 10 metres left.
(4b). Gain the rib from the left and follow it daintily to a ledge. Continue up easier rocks to finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 20th Oct 2007

LANGDALE
Harrison Stickle (p 126)

Treasure 35m MVS 2007
A good, direct and exhilerating climb taking the grooved arete immediately right of Harristicklefront. Start as for that climb.
1 21m (4b). Gain the arete by a stiff pull and continue to an alcove. Climb the steep right wall of the alcove, before following a crack just right of the arete to a ledge and block belays at a paler area of rock.
2 14m (4a). Climb the rounded groove above and slightly right, and continue up easier slabs to reach a small juniper terrace. Nut and block belays. Twenty five metres of pleasant scrambling leads to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 18th Oct 2007

Tweed Wall 30m HS 2007
A continuously interesting climb up the wall left of Waller's Crack.
Start 10 metres down and left of Waller' Crack at the foot of a spiky rib.
(4a). Climb the rib and continue up the black crack for 4 metres, before moving right and up to a ledge. Follow the wall above, trending right to finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 18th Oct 2007

LANGDALE
Gimmer Crag (p 165)

Main Wall

The Purple Edge 48m VS 2007
Despite the contrived start, a fine, direct and clean route taking the arete which bounds Main Wall on its right.
Start one metre right of Main Wall Climb.
1 17m (4c). Climb directly up the left side of a rib (crossing Main Wall Climb) to reach a scoop. Move up, then diagonally left to gain a corner. Up this for 2 metres, then trend rightwards to the stance atop Pitch 1 of Main Wall Climb.
2 31m (4c). Gain and climb the shallow groove in the arete directly above, and its steeper, trickier continuation; before moving up and left to reach easier climbing and the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 18th Oct 2007

BORROWDALE
Twa Hummocks (p279)

Brace Yourself 30m S 2007
A wandering route, but finding the best, cleanest rock hereabouts and culminating in a fine second pitch.
Start 7 metres up and left of the overturned rowan, at a 2 metre high slanting groove.
1 19m. Climb the left edge of the groove and move 2 metres right to a block on the edge of the buttress. Continue a further 4 metres right, and climb the pleasant wall via a groove and thin crack to a junction with
The Twa Hummocks North at the ridge. Step right to spike belays in a cosy, shallow niche.
2 11m (4a). Traverse 3 metres right, and climb the headwall via a bulge to the top. A well-protected pitch on good holds.
BJ Clarke (solo), 16th Oct 2007

NORTH LAKES LIMESTONE
Caldbeck Moor Quarry

Striation Crack 7m MS 2007
Start 4 metres right of Thorn Corner, and climb the thin crack in the centre of the small protruding buttress to the top.
BJ Clarke, 15th Oct 2007

ST JOHNS IN THE VALE
Castle Rock of Triermain (p126)

Gangway Direct 22m VS 4c
(4c). Follow Gangway Climb to the blocks at the top of the first pitch and then stretch for good handholds on the lefthand edge of the gangway itself and swing round left on to the face at a heather-filled crack. Now climb direct, through Gangway Climb, and up the lichen-speckled wall above to a ledge with pinnacle at its left end. Finish direct.
Frank Wilkinson, Mike Bebbington, Ian Knight, 10th October 2007

LANGDALE
Pavey Ark (p 85)

Aero 30m HS 2007
Fifty metres up and left from Golden Slipper, Jack's Rake turns a corner; after a further 8 metres an attractive rib rises on the right. Start here.
1 15m (4a). Climb the rib and its continuation to a spike belay.
2 15m (4b). Climb the awkward corner crack and finish up the slabs above.

Bubbles 27m MS 2007
Start 5 metres up and left of Aero.
1 13m. Climb the wall, scoop and right-slanting crack, before moving up to the spike belay of Aero.
2 14m. Step left and finish up a series of corners and slabs.
Note:- In times past other pioneers have found these beautifully clean rocks irresistable and their lower sections are well-marked! They are worthwhile.Both re-discovered and named BJ Clarke (solo), 6th Oct 2007

Aerosol 16m MVS 2007
A rather more substantial offering up the walls to the left, with a memorable finish. Start 20 metres left and up from Bubbles, at a flake belay above a belt of slabs on the Rake.
(4b). Traverse a terrace rightwards and climb a short corner crack. Continue up a shallow groove in the wall above to reach a sloping ledge. Teeter up the slabby headwall just right of centre to finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 6th Oct 2007

LANGDALE
Tarn Crag (p 83)

Tarntasia 16m MVS 2007
Start 4 metres up and left of Tarnation.
(4b). Follow the "blank" slab to a big ledge below the left-hand prow. Make a move up the wall one metre left of the prow before traversing right to a ledge on the crest. Follow this pleasantly to the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 6th Oct 2007

Tarnation 18m HS 2007
Forty metres to the left of West Buttress a pleasant crinkly rib nestles beneath two undercut prows.
1 9m. After overcoming an initial steepening climb the crinkly rib to a belay below a groove.
2 9m. Traverse diagonally right to gain the knife-edged right-hand prow and follow this to block belays at the top.
BJ Clarke (solo), 6th Oct 2007

LANGDALE
Slate Crag (West of the summit of Bowfell. GR 240 064)

The crag is most logically reached via Stool End Farm and The Band. From Three Tarns, contour WNW above Hart Crag, then NW to the crag. About one and a half hours.

This is an idyllic venue in good weather with great views and bivi spots below the crag near Yeastyrigg Gill. It gets all the sun there is from midday onwards. The crag seems to be dry after three rain-free days. The sections that stay wet longest have lines of backish moss/lichen. The routes avoid these, and some climb narrow clean areas between them. As might be expected, there is some loose rock on ledges and the cliff-top. Most of the rock elsewhere on the routes is generally sound. Slug Balancer and Handlebar Club finish through a short, low-angled 'moustache' of dwarf juniper, however, the gear is good immediately under the moustache and the bushes themselves are tough.

White Balance 40m M An easy blunt rib towards the left end of the crag. Easily identified by a short rust-coloured streak at its base. Stuart Halford (solo), 24th August 2007 1. Snail's Revenge 30m VD A line which wanders and keeps the grade steady. Alyn Griffiths, Stuart Halford, 26th August 2007 2. Did you kill that lad's 'awk? 25m S A direct line a few metres right. Stuart Halford, Alyn Griffiths, 26th August 2007 3. Squeeky Duck 25m HS Climb direct just to the left of a black moss-streak. Sneak left at the finish up a short rib to avoid come loose rocks. Stuart Halford, Phil Poole, 28th June 2007 4. Slug Balancer 25m HS A direct line between two black moss-streaks. Good gear can be placed under the juniper 'moustache' before stepping through it. Stuart Halford, Alyn Griffiths, 26th August 2007

(All photos Stuart Halford)

5. Handlebar Club 25m HS The next line right between black moss-streaks to the left and right. Good gear can be placed under the juniper 'moustache' before stepping through it. Stuart Halford, Alyn Griffiths, 26th August 2007 6. Mollusc Juggler 25m S Start alongside a blunt pinnacle at the base of the crag. Bridge between the pinnacle and main face, then climb direct avoiding the widening moss-streak on its right. Alyn Griffiths, Stuart Halford, 26th August 2007 7. Bulb's Route 25m MVS (4b). Climb the slab and groove to a wide crack. Finish up this passing to the right of a pale square of rock. Phil Poole, Stuart Halford, 28th June 2007 8. Cricket Route 20m VD Climb the slab and crack on great rock to a ledge. Haul yourself up the corner to another ledge to finish. Stuart Halford, Phil Poole, 28th June 2007

BORROWDALE
Gillercombe (p307)

Prudence 25m E6/7 ***
The excellent steep groove and diagonal crack 4 metres right of Caution.
(6b).Go up the slab to a bilberry ledge. Climb boldly and directly to a peg (good holds down and left to clip). and continue strenuously up the groove via a large undercut (Friend 1.5) to a rest at the second peg. Pull out leftwards onto a flake on the steep headwall (sling and tiny wire) and gain the diagonal crack via a hard move into the undercut. Follow the continuously difficult crack boldly to the top. There is gear in the crack but some is difficult to find and it's all pumpy to place.
Paddy Deady, James McHaffie, 13th September 2007
Cleaned and top-roped prior to first ascent. All gear placed on the lead. E7 for a true on sight but, as the start of the route is most easily approached by abseil, E6 is more applicable.

LANGDALE
Raven Crag (p 128)

Mendes Wall

Fuzz Face E1 5b
The wall between Bradleys Damnation and Mendes.
Start as Mendes to gain slab over first bulge. Where this heads right into the main corner, keep straight on up the wall - follow a faint line just left of a tiny hanging corner to a final fuzzy rock-over. Good gear, furry rock, needs a shave.
Martin Bagness, John Kelly, 26th September 2007

DUDDON
Lower Brandy Crag (226 988)

The Slab on the Right S
Start right of The Rib in a steep corner. 
Pull up and over strenuously onto the slab and trend up right to a crack move up and left and follow slabs bulges and overlaps leftwards to the main belay block.
Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 28th May 2007

DUDDON
Lower Gaitkins (p 281)

Monkey Grooves

Dog's Dinner 14m E2 *
Central between Yeats-Brown Crack and Benegal Lancer.
(5b). Climb the overhanging nose on the right to pull out steeply left, crucial o friend on the left and a 1 ½ friend on the right.  Pull over onto the slab and up to a bilberry ledge finish direct.
Ted Rogers, Ken Forsythe, 1st June 2007

ULPHA FELL
Foxbield Slabs (197 990) Alt 380m West Facing

Trosanose 20m MVS
Start just right of Flaky.
(4b). Pull on to a ledge, then climb the spiky wall up and right to a good hold/spike just below and left of the detached block.  Finish direct up a shallow groove.
A  Phizacklea  (solo), 22nd September 2007

The following route is on the steep wall 120 metres right of Foxbield Slab.

Vrillis Gimmol   25m  VS
Climbs the obvious crack.  Start just left of a block embedded in the ground.
(4c). Climb the groove using the pinnacle to reach a heather ledge.  Climb the crack past a good hold on a ledge to a grassy pull-out (harrowing on the solo!).  Easy rocks to finish.
A  Phizacklea  (solo), 22nd September 2007

LANGDALE
Raven Crag (p 128)

Bilberry Buttress Eliminate E2
Shares the same belays as Bilberry Buttress.
1 (5b). Climb a slabby rib to gain a triangular niche a few metres left of the crack of Bilberry Buttress Pitch 1. Pull over onto a slab and climb this direct to the belay. The E2 grade is given for this pitch.
2 (5b). Climb the crack as for Bilberry Buttress pitch 2, but continue up it where Bilberry Buttress pulls out right, to reach a small roof on the left. Pull over this leftwards on improving holds and continue up the arete.
3. Same as Bilberry Buttress pitch 3 or Pluto pitch 3.
Martin Bagness, John Kelly 18th September 2007

WASDALE
Buckbarrow (p172)

Eastern Crags

Killswitch  33m E2+  **
An excellent sustained route which climbs the central stepped groove-line.  Start 2 metresright of the block of Midsummer Madness, below a smooth groove-line.
(5b+) Climb the groove with interest to a doubtful wedged hold at the top (seems to be mechanically sound, though), swing right and move up to good holds below an overhang.  Pull into the groove above (Useful hold out right) and continue directly until you can step left onto a ledge and a good flake.  Climb the upper slabs directly to the abseil point.
A Phizacklea, JL Holden, 15th September 2007

Schweppes  42m  HVS  *
Basically pitch 2 is a direct variation on  of Cadbury, by climbing the clean front of the pillar. 
Start by the right-hand rowan below the lower wall.
1 12m (5a). Pull into a vague groove just left of the clean slab, and step right and up to finish at a short pillar, with a gorse-filled pull onto the ledge.  Move up left to the upper wall.   (This is a left-hand start to pitch 1 of Fall Out).
2 30m (5a). As for Cadbury, climb the light coloured groove to pull out right at a spike. Step up, then pull left onto the clean pillar and follow this to its top (runners in the crack on the right).  Step left and pull through the overlap on good holds.
A Phizacklea, JL Holden, 15th September 2007

ESKDALE
Hardknott Roadside Crag (Horse Howe Crag) (page 308)

Greener Grass 10m E2/E3?
(5c/6a?). About 7 metres right of Slap Head goes Happy Slappin', pull up into the small overhang and follow steep cracks to a reach out left for a jug near the top, then continue directly.
Andy Clough, Tom Walkington, 15th September 2007

DOW
Brim Fell, South Crag (267 984) (East facing)

Hollow Grooves 15m E3/4?
A bit run out in places & little loose but good climbing. Start on the far left of the crag, approximately 15 metres left of Jugs of Joy.
(5c/6a?). Climb straight up the obvious groove (the most obvious feature of the crag).
Andy Clough, Summer 2006

ST JOHNS IN THE VALE
Castle Rock of Triermain (p126)

North Gully Wall

Diamond Jubilee  22m  E2 Climbs the lower left wall, starting near the foot of the diagonal ramp that leads into the dank descent gully.  Start below a short, prominent groove in the front of the wall.  The rock's not bad, but I noticed that abseiling sent down a shower of dead heather flowers across the upper wall, which may have covered some of the holds. (5b) Climb a short dark groove (the right-hand one) and step left to a ledge under the prominent groove.  Step up to the overhang (good gear), swing left onto a spike and pull hastily up to a larger spike. Climb diagonally left on good holds (keeping above a sloping ledge) to gain a smaller ledge by a rather unprotected move. Step right on good holds to finish. Tree abseil point in place. A Phizacklea, JL Holden, 9th September 2007 The name reflects the fact that it's sixty years since Jim Birkett did the last route on this wall - to put this into a historical context, sixty years before that, Haskett Smith had only just climbed The Needle!  I'm amazed that such a large area of rock on one of the busiest crags in the district has been overlooked for so long. I climbed the prominent central corner on-sight, in a usual attempt to be wholly ethical, but my intended line, going back right through the bulges, couldn't be done without cleaning.  I finished up by battling over a very unaccommodating heather cornice onto the ledge where Diamond Jubilee finishes.   There's a good deal of potential left, but it'll need a good clean.  Most of the rock is good, but some of the flakes tend to be a bit friable.

Photo Above: Martin Armitage on the second ascent of Diamond Jubilee. Photo: Dave Bodecott

LANGDALE
Cove Crag, Brightbeck Cove (287 082)

From The Confidence Man, follow the base of the rock up to the right until the last slab before it merges into the fellside. The route takes the slab and "thumb" of rock above it.

Nobble Nibble 18m E1
(5b) Gain the slab from its left edge and climb it on nice rugosities to reach a ledge. Traverse off here right or left and award yourself HVS (4c). Continue up the steeper thumb above more or less direct trending slightly right towards the top. It may be possible to bail into the slope on the right when the going gets tough. No gear to speak of. Delightful climbing.
Martin Dale (solo, with top spotter, Nick Dalzell - he looked over the top and pointed out holds!), 11th June 2006

THIRLMERE
Sippling Crag (300 195 alt 350m  W facing )

Seen across the Shoulthwaite Valley from Iron Crag, this is a rather broken crag amongst the trees, the area developed seemed to have the best rock but there's considerable scope for further development.   The routes have only undergone absolute minimal cleaning.

Approach from the track through Shoulthwaite Farm which meets the forest road in the trees. (This has recently been improved, which tends to suggest that logging will commence soon).  There is a notice board which directs folk right to Shoulthwaite and Iron Crag, but continue up the track for half a kilometre, past a zig-zag bend, and the crag is next to the track 300 metres beyond this. The buttress comprises of two clean walls separated by a wide crack. There is an abseil sling on a large tree to the right of these routes.

Sippling Groove 20m E2 * Good sustained climbing, with diminishing protection, up the inverted groove system.  Start just left of the crack. (5b). move into the base of the groove, and ascend delicately to the half way ledge. (peg)  The upper wall is climbed direct, there is a finishing jug on the left to gain a ledge.  Finish up the flake behind. Tree belay. A Phizacklea, JL Holden, 26th August 2007 Sippling Rivalry 22m VS * An interesting route on excellent rock with a well protected crux, start just right of the crack. (5a). Pull up the lower rocks to a ledge.  Climb the left side of the wall to reach a small inverted V, where a hard step left enables a jug to be reached.  Finish easily behind to a tree belay. A Phizacklea, JL Holden, 26th August 2007

Al Phizacklea on the first ascents of (above) Sippling Groove (E2) and (below) Sippling Rivalry (VS). (John Holden) Speeding for Fun 23m E1 Rather unbalanced climbing, with an awkward crux protected by a skyhook.  (It may be possible to swing right to fix a runner and this might reduce the grade).  (5a). Start up Sippling Rivalry to a small wire in the first bulge, then swing right to reach a good pocket.  Mantleshelf onto this (crux), and fix a nut out right before continuing up to a small niche/scoop.  Easier climbing leads to the top. A Phizacklea, JL Holden, 26th August 2007

LANGDALE
Black Wars (p 268)

Black Star 25m E6 6b ***
The route climbs the thin diagonal crack system in the very steep wall to the right of Furtive Sortie. Start at the right edge of the wall below a thin crack.
(6b). Climb through a slight overlap and move strenuously up the wall on small positive edges to a jug. From here make difficult and strenuous moves using layaways and edges past a peg to finally arrive at a good jug and excellent runners. Pull up onto the hanging slab and then make final strenuous moves up the headwall to pull awkwardly into a groove at the top. Stunning!
Kevin Avery, John Shepherd, 26th August 2007
Abseil inspected/cleaned prior to lead.

Surely 'Black Wars' should be 'Black Whas' as in Black Walls!

BORROWDALE
Raven Crag (p 287)

B 2 B 25m VS 2007
A pleasant traverse across the Pedestal Wall area; but requiring care in protecting the second on the first section! Start 2 metres left of the Pedestal.
(4c). Climb diagonally rightwards to the V-overlap. Step down slightly, and make exquisite moves to reach a series of right-slanting cracks. Follow these around the arete (without much height gain); to finish with a flourish up the small pinnacle flake crack of Just a Quickie.
BJ Clarke (solo), 22nd Aug 2007
Note:- this is the "Girdle Traverse" suggested by TL (probably tongue-in cheek!), in the Recent Developments. With hardly any new climbing this title may be too grandiose! But any route which keeps you on this fine little wall longer is worthwhile and made a nice 300th new route betwixt Buttermere and Brough (hence the name)!
Incidentally the heather choking the cracks in the top part of Just a Quickie has now been removed.

BORROWDALE
Glaciated Slab (p277)

Slab and Hood 17m MVS 2007
Two interesting pitches; starting 2 metres left of Erratic Slab.
1 11m (4b). Gain and climb a series of right-slanting diagonal cracks across the slab to reach an alcove. Move up and right out of the alcove to reach a large ledge.
2 6m (4b). Above on the left is a hooded groove. Follow its right wall and move around the "hood" on its right to finish.
BJ Clarke (solo), 17th Aug 2007

BORROWDALE
Shepherd's Crag (p109)