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BUTTERMERE
& NEWLANDS
Newlands (pages 95 - 113)
Page numbers refer to the FRCC Guide:
Buttermere & Eastern Crags (1992)
Newlands will be covered in the forthcoming Buttermere & St Bees guide. |
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FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB
of the
English Lake District |
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A Plea for Photographs |
| Photos of crags in good light in summer are needed for the next edition of this guide. Please contact the FRCC Guidebook Photographs Editor if you think you have any such photos (in any format). Needless to say any good action photos would also be well received - for these we need to know: crag, route, grade, pitch, name of climber, name of photographer. You don't get paid I'm afraid, but you will get a free guidebook if we use any of your pictures! |
NEWLANDS
Grey Buttress
(page 95) |
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Buckfast 38m HVS
A
direct line, which goes straight up the wall crossed by pitch
2 of Brandywine. Start 4 metres right of Pinnacle Wall
in a small bay - left of Space Rats in Grey.
1
27m (5b) Climb the groove and crack on the left to the top of
the flake. Move right into a shallow groove and continue to the
foot of the wall. Move directly up and pull right, make delicate
moves up (crux) until a triangular foothold on the Brandywine
traverse is gained. Move up and pull left into a recess. The
short groove leads to a small ledge and belay.
2
11m (4a) Climb the arete directly above to the top.
C.Read,
G.L.Swainbank, 12th May 1996
Space
Rats In Grey
E2
Start
between Pinnacle Wall and Brandywine at a steep
slab.
1
(5c). Climb the left side of the slab to a shallow groove which
leads to the niche on Brandywine. Continue up the groove
above and move right across the wall to a ledge (crux). Follow
the dirty slab above to a large thread belay.
2
(4b). Move right, climb a slabby groove, then up left to the top.
P
Morris, D Laddiman, 11th June 1988
The
following route has been claimed but may take a similar line to
Space Rats in Grey.
Lilac
Wine 45m
E2
This
climbs the groove between Pinnacle Wall and Brandywine,
to join that route at the top of the gangway, then takes the steep
wall to its right and the hanging prow at the top of the crag.
Start between Pinnacle Wall and Brandywine.
(5c). Climb to a small spike before stepping
left into the bottom of the groove.
Move up and right to join Brandywine, then make difficult
moves right across the steep wall to easier ground.
Move up to a hanging prow between two grooves and climb
this on jugs which decrease with height.
B
Davison, D Wilkinson, 23rd May 1997
El Scorchio 48m E1** 2006
Nice climbing: at a reasonable standard with a short crux section. Start by scrambling to the right round the rib on which perches the block of Brandywine, to the foot of a groove, with a large flake belay on its left.
1 20 m (4b). Climb the groove and move up right to a block, pull right and continue up the slabby wall, then trend rightwards, to belay as for Grey Slab, beneath the obvious crack.
2 28 m (5b). Move up and traverse left onto a rock ledge. Make a difficult pull up the wall (crux) to gain an alcove. Move up a few metres, then step left onto the fine clean wall, continue passing a flake on its right to gain slabby rock and finish up a short rib on the left.
C Read, C Jones, 18th July 2006
Photo: Colin Read making the first ascent of El Scorchio (Colwyn Jones). |
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NEWLANDS
Red Crag
(page 97) |
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Variation: Tartars' Crack Direct 32m HVS* 2006
(5b). Good, steep and direct: follow the crack direct all the way.
C Read, C Jones 13th July 2006
Upper Tier
September Song 45m VS
A line up the slim pillar left of October Slab Continuation.
Start 6 metres up and left of that climb at a horizontal spike.
1 35m (4b). Scramble up, and gain the pillar from the left by
hand-traversing the obvious ledge. Follow the shallow grooves
until a heather ledge is reached on the left. Go left for 2 metres,
climb a blocky crack and then move back right to regain the pillar.
Climb a series of short walls, then step left to a ledge and fine
spike belay.
2 10m. Climb the pleasant shallow groove above, on good rock to
the top. Imaginary belays!
BJ Clarke (solo), 21st September 2005
Bolshoi
Buttress
Perestroika 63m HVS
Start
as for Bolshoi Corner.
1
18m. As for Bolshoi Corner.
2
20m (5a). Step left from the belay and climb the steep crack in
the rib. Strenuous to start. Belay at the top of Bolshoi Corner
by a loose pinnacle.
3
25m (4c). From the pinnacle scramble leftwards to below a red
corner. Climb this and exit left onto a heather ledge. Broken
rocks then lead to a good grass ledge with nut belay overlooking
the gully.
D.
Kay, J. Robertson, 15th May 1988 |
NEWLANDS
High Spy Crag (?) |
This crag lies somewhere high above Red Crag and is best reached by descending a gully north of the summit cairn of High Spy. The rock is superb.
Stella on Speed 40m VD
Follow the rib rising from the gully bed.
John Temple, November 2005
Gippereiter was KGB 60m VD/S
Start at a gentle ramp to the north of Stella on Speed and climb the steep wall to finish almost of the summit.
John Temple, November 2005
Hey, Hey, CIA D 30m
Start at a small pillar further north again. Climb leftwards to a rib, then right to a chimney-crack.
John Temple, November 2005 |
NEWLANDS
Waterfall Buttress
(page 102) |
Broadway
95m S
Some pleasant climbing up the slabby walls right of The Bolt,
and, unusually for Waterfall, easy to follow. Start 25 metres
up and right of The Bolt at a 4 metre high obelisk of clean
rock. Small cairn.
1 8m (4a). Climb the obelisk and continue over blocks to a terrace.
2 10m. Follow the clean slabby wall above to a heather ledge, step
left and belay below a sweep of slabs.
3 18m. Up the slabs rightwards, then scramble up left to a fine
block belay.
4 8m. Step left and climb a wall followed by a tiny quartz-spattered
groove, to reach a heather terrace and fallen tree.
5 17m. As for pitch 5 of Ordinary Route. Walk 10 metres right
and climb up to a fine ledge below a V-groove.
6 10m. Traverse right, descending slightly to a recess at the foot
of a steep corner.
7 24m. Climb the right wall of the recess to join and finish up
the final easy ridge of Ordinary Route.
BJ Clarke (solo), 18th September 2005 |
NEWLANDS
Miners’ Crag
(page 105) |
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Counterbalance 65 m VS 2006
Variations on Corkscrew. Start as for that route.
1 30 m (4c). Climb the rib of Corkscrew to the foor of a steep rib,
directly above. Ascend the slab on its immediate right for 4
metres and climb a short steep groove (crux), trend leftwards up
an open groove, easier rocks lead diagonaly left to a junction and
belay at the top of pitch 2 of Corkscrew.
2 35 m. Climb the rib above on the left. First on the left, then
follow the crest, to a junction with Miners' Grooves and the top.
C Read, F M Cox, 4th July 2006
Terrace Wall
Talulah 20 m VS
(4c). Climb the obvious rightward-facing groove/crack 3 metres to the left of Clementine. Continue up easier rock trending leftwards to the top. The climb is a logical finish to Miners’ Groove up Terrace Wall.
John Robinson, Ann McWatt, August 1996
Devil Woman 47m E1/2 ** 2007
Strenuous climbing through steep terrain with interest sustained throughout. Originally climbed in wild windy very cold winter conditions and slotted into the guide at the last minute, hence the uncertainty of the grade. Start as for Bathsheba.
1 21m (5b). Follow pitch 1 of Bathsheba to its stance and traverse 4 metres to the left end of the juniper ledge. Belay beneath overhangs in the corner, which is divided by a short prow of rock.
2 26m (5b/c). Climb up the corner on the right of the prow for 3 metres, traverse 3 metres right, and move up to a resting place. Step left and up into a short groove, which is climbed via holds on its left to a small overhang, and pull up left with difficulty to good hidden holds. Go straight up to the foot of an impending crack and climb it to gain a sloping ledge above. Move right and up into an impending groove, and pull up using flake holds to gain the top. Move up to good belays.
C Read, P Fleming, 27th January 2007
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Photo: Colin Read on the first pitch of Devil Woman (E2).
The corner-line of Bathsheeba (E2) lies to his right. (Phil Fleming).
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Bathsheba 39m E2- *** 2006
Excellent climbing, steep and with continuous interest, taking a direct line to, and then climbing, the big obvious corner from which Jezebel escapes. The only ascent to date was in wild windy and very cold conditions by two men desparate to meet a publication deadline – some uncertainty remains about the grade and stars! Start directly below the upper corner, 2 metres left of Harlot ' at the base of a steep wall, just right of an area black rock which usually oozes.
1 17m (5b). Pull up directly onto a triangular slab below a short impending groove, move up this, and pull out left onto the steep wall to gain good holds. Continue up the wall until it eases at the base of a short open groove, traverse to its right edge, move up it and back left to a ledge, and belay beneath the upper corner (junction with Jezebel ); nut and thread belays.
2 22m (5c). Climb the corner, passing a holly (as for Jezebel ), and continue up the corner with difficulty, directly to the top.
C Read, P Fleming (alt), 5th November 2006
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Harlot
37 m HVS** 2004
Good climbing: directly up to and through the steep central
headwall. Start 6 metres right of the big right-angled corner
of Jezebel, below and just right of an open slabby
groove line, where an obvious quartz fault runs down to
meet the fellside.
1 20m (4a). Step up and work steeply leftwards on good holds
to gain the slabby groove, follow this line over steps to
a good ledge and spike belays.
2 17m (5a). Climb up and enter a sentry box, pull out left
and continue up the fault line, to exit through a V-notch
at the top.
G L Swainbank. C Read. (alt) 16 May 2004
The Frog 33m HVS
Essentially a straightened out version of Route One, but at a harder standard. Start from the scree slope on the right of the crag at the very beginning of the Quartz Rake; directly below a yellow/green- flecked groove at 15 metres (The Frog).
(4c). Climb directly up broken but awkward ribs to a slanting shelf. Step left, then go up the steep wall to reach the flecked groove. Spooky moves up this lead to a ledge just left of the finishing easy-angled mossy groove of Route One. Finish up the clean, flaky rib on its right.
BJ Clarke (solo), 16th September 2005 |
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Photo:
Jim Fairey and Colin Read making the second ascent of Harlot
(Stephen Reid). |
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NEWLANDS
High Crag - Newlands
(page 113) |
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A
very steep little crag located in a quiet setting above the pool
at the upper end of Scope Beck, about a half-hour easy walk from
Newlands church. Excellent rock with incut holds: ideal for the
indoor climbing fraternity. The crag already has one route (So
Inclined) up the centre of the square buttress and these two
new routes are of equal quality.
The
Arete 25m E2
Climb
the edge of the obvious left arete of the square central buttress
about 3 metres to left of So lnclined.
(5c).
Follow the steep airy arete to some strenuous final moves. Friend
needed to protect final bulge.
Paul
Ross, Peter Lockey, 29th April 1993
Anyone
Would Do
23m HVS
Starts
4 metres to the right of So Inclined on the grass ledge
above a short crack. An excellent little route.
(5a).
Follow a steep slanting line of flakes angling up to the right.
First placement at about 3 metres. When the angle eases climb
up to the left passing a small cave and up to a ledge at the foot
of an alcove. Step left around the corner onto a small
slab and up this to the top.
Paul
Ross, Jill Sharpe, Peter Lockey, May 1993
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WHINLATTER
Shawgill Bridge Quarry (GR 177 258) |
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This
disused quarry lies close to the road on Whinlatter Pass. Loose
rock and a complete absence of natural protection possibly explain
why no routes have been recorded here previously, though old pegs
point to earlier explorations.
The
following routes are all in the upper bay right. There is a striking
arete on the left.
Still
Crazy After All These Years
20m HVS
The
obvious thin crack line left of the arete.
A
Evans, 6th October 1991
Wilderness
Edge 20m
HVS
(4c).
A fine route up the arete. The only protection is an in-situ peg
at 13 metres. Peg belay.
A
Evans, F Bell, 26th September 1991
The
wall to the right is an obvious problem next route starts 7 metres
to the right.
Whinlatter
Wall 20m
VS
(4b)
Follow the stepped ramp leftwards to an overhung ledge (peg runner).
Move left and follow slabs to belay as for Wilderness Edge.
A
Evans, F Bell, 26th September 1991
Shawgill
Grooves
20m VS
(4c)
Start 5m to the right of Whinlater Wall and follow a short
slab to a bulge. Surmount this and climb another slab to a corner.
Up this and a second corner, avoiding the final overhang on the
left.
Unprotected
except for in-situ peg below final overhang.
A
Evans (solo), 2nd October 1991
There
are some steep unclimbed cracklines to the right - unfortunately
often wet - worth a look when dry - if ever !!.
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