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EASTERN CRAGS
South Lakes Limestone
It is intended to cover some of this area in the next edition of Eastern Crags.
Page numbers refer to Stewart Wilson's North of England Rock Climbs 1992, and the BMC Guide, Lancashire Rock 1999. |
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FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB
of the
English Lake District |
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A Plea for Photographs |
Photos of crags in good light in summer are needed for the next edition of this guide. Please contact the FRCC Guidebook Photographs Editor if you think you have any such photos (in any format). Needless to say any good action photos would also be well received - for these we need to know: crag, route, grade, pitch, name of climber, name of photographer. You don't get paid I'm afraid, but you will get a free guidebook if we use any of your pictures! |
SOUTH LAKES
Hebblethwaite Hall Gill (p162 NE) |
| Please click for an online guide to Hebblethwaite Hall Gill. |
SOUTH LAKES
Hutton Roof (p164 NE) |
| Hutton Roof Crags are covered in the on-line guide Lancashire Rock. Although they lie within Cumbria, it is intended to include them in the next Lancashire guide. |
SOUTH LAKES
Farleton Crag (p171 NE) |
| Farleton Crag is covered in the on-line guide Lancashire Rock. Although it lies within Cumbria, it is intended to include them in the next Lancashire guide. |
SOUTH
LAKES
Chapel Head Scar (p587 LR) |
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This crag is currently described selectively in the FRCC's Lake District Rock, and in the Rockfax guide Northern Limestone. It is intended to cover it definitively in the next FRCC Eastern Crags guide, due in 2008.
The
access situation here is extremely delicate. Please keep
to the agreed areas or a complete ban may result. An on-going
problem is caused by climbers crapping at the foot of the crag.
Please do not do this. Please go before you arrive so to speak!
Or at least go a long way from the crag and bury it well. Or just
go away all together..........
Bleep
and Booster is now equipped at 6c
Two
new routes at about 7a to the right of Moonchild have been
done by Keith Phizacklea.
The first finishes up Moonchild (or use lower off 'biner).
These are 62 West Wallaby Street (7a), the left hand route,
and War Hero (7a) which goes to the top of the crag.
Android: a branch has broken off the Android Tree making the starts of several routes much harder (9/9/05).
Witherslack Alice 20m (to lower off) 6c+/F7a
(worth at least one star)
Takes a line about 3 metres right of Up Town starting at the old small tree stump. Climb straight up to and through the break (crux). Follow the easier shallow corner to where the rock steepens again, gain holds in the horizontal break, and move up and right to good finishing holds.Eight bolts to twin lower off.
Alan Towse, Peter Short, Daniel Short, 7th August 2006
Second ascent by Daniel Short the same day. |
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Alan Towse on the first ascent of Witherslack Alice (F7a)
(Peter Short)
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Le Grand Traverse E6 (F7c) ***
Pumpy number!
(6b). Start up Driller Killer at its most left point, swing up and left (bolt) to gain the traverse line. Continue right past Android to finish up War Games.
Steve Crowe, Andrew Earl, 28th August 1994
Cosmic Dancer
(Alternative Start)
?m E5 {F7a+}
A superior and more amenable start to Cosmic Dancer, tracing the line of the curving archway. Start as for
Gilbert Cardigan.
(6b). From the third bolt traverse powerfully right on tufas
towards Guloot Kalanga.
More moves right lead to a span into the bell tufa of Electric
Warrior just below its lower off chain. Finish as for Cosmic Dancer.
C Matheson, K Phizacklea (on sight), August 1999
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SOUTH LAKES
Millside Scar |
| This crag is currently described in the Rockfax guide Northern Limestone. It is intended to cover it definitively in the next FRCC Eastern Crags guide, due in 2008. |
SOUTH LAKES
White Scar (p625 LR) |
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Climbing here was banned for five years from 1997 due to various unbelievable activities on the crag that broke the access agreement. Unfortunately, though the five years is now up, the ban has not been lifted. |
SOUTH LAKES
Humphrey Head |
| This crag is currently described in the Rockfax guide Northern Limestone. It is intended to cover it definitively in the next FRCC Eastern Crags guide, due in 2008. |
SOUTH LAKES
Scout Scar |
| This crag is currently described in the Rockfax guide Northern Limestone. It is intended to cover it definitively in the next FRCC Eastern Crags guide, due in 2008. |
SOUTH
LAKES
Kettlewell Crag, Hellsfell (505 934) |
The following information on a new bouldering area has been
received from Si O’Conor from whom crag diagrams can be obtained.
E-mail Si at: SiOconor@Angelfire.com
From
the Windermere Rd, entering Kendal, turn R into Queens Rd, find
the veggie guesthouse sign and a sharp uphill R. Park or continue
up lane to chancy parking and locked gate. Follow with views,
the stone walling to a tree line and the crag.
A good spot in a dry summer or winter. Aspect: East facing.
Left
Hand Sector:
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1)
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1st and Last 5b, Font 6a
Mantel into a high finger pocket
to finish above.
SoC
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2)
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Offramp 4b
The jugs and runnel direct.
CB
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3)
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Daves Crack
5c, Font 6b
The finger crack, then R into the ledge of 2. Finish above.
DB
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4)
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Initiation*
5m. 6c, Font 7b+
The wall and direct approach into the finger ledge. Finish
above.
SoC
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5)
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Arete Climb#1
5c/6a, Font 6a+
The arete edge direct from a block sit start.
SoC
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6)
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D.N.A*
5m. 7a, Font 7c
For a fright, start at the back and do the steep hanging block direct.
SoC
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7)
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Arete Climb#2 6b/c, Font 7b
Go footless up the hanging arete.
SoC
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7a)
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Easier Variation
5c, Font 6a
The inside corner of the arete via a sharp mono.
SoC
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Middle
Sector
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8)
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Easy Slab 3a-4a
Anywhere on the easy slab.
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9)
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Crackerette
a Burger Finger* 5b,
Font 6a
The arete and crackline to the top. No slab.
SoC
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10)
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Traverse#1
5c,
Font 6a
Traverse R-L-R from 6 to the cracked slab beyond 9.
SoC
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10a)
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10a)Sunrise Variation
6a/b, Font 6c/7a
Same traverse but lower through the hanging blocks of 9.
SoC
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10b)
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Extension Variation 6b, Font 7a
Start L of 1 and go low into 3 and 9.
SoC
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11)
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Mistral 5c,
Font 6b
From a low back start, the hanging blocks direct.
SoC
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12)
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Arete Climb#3
5b, Font 5c+
The good short arete direct.
SoC
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13)
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Si’s Route*
4m. 6b, Font 7a
The finger ledge and groove to the top. No R block.
SoC
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13a)
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Easier Variation 6a, Font 6b+
From the ledge move L and up on pockets.
SoC
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13b)
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Glen Close
Variation 6c, Font 7b
As 11 but use only ripples above and pinches on the lip.
SoC
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14)
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Leftism 5c+,
Font 6a
An eliminate on the R side of 13 block.
LW
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15)
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Nightmare on Elf St 6c, Font
7b
Squeeze under the low roof and use
lip holds to a poor sidepull, then the overlap L.Use
the horizontal- 6b.
SoC
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16)
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Arete Climb#4 4a.
The short easy arete stands proud enough to climb.
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17)
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Houdini 6a, Font 6c
To the L of the arete. Feet on smears,
fingers in the horizontal. Reach the top from here.
SoC
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18)
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Hellish Houdini 6b+, Font 7a
variation
Try it from the mono into the poor
sloper to reach the top.
SoC
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19)
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The Bat 4a/b
The easy but superb black wall direct.
CB
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20)
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Barney’s Slap 5c, Font 6a+
From monos in the break, get the
edge below the fin, then up this to finish.
BW
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21)
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Light At The End Of The Kennel 6a, Font 6c
Traverse L-R-L along the head height
groove. Finish up 16 or 16a.
SoC
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21a)
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Just R of this wall there’s a tiny hanging prow. Hang and
mantel it in one.
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22)
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Nicks Ledge Problem 5c, Font
6b
Hang the finger ledge and to get
to the large crack behind. Finish easily above.
SoC
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23)
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Ledge-istics 6b, Font 7a
Undercut the ledge L of 18, then
try for the high horizontal in one.
SoC
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24)
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The wall above the block direct. 5b, Font 6a
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25)
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Captain Scarlet 6c, Font 7b+
The testing steep red dots leftward
through the roof and up.
SoC
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26)
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Yoghurt Power 6b, Font 7a
From the first red dot , do the roof
through it’s largest portion to finish
via a good hold and a crimp above this.
SoC
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27)
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Harder Start Variation 6c,7a,
Font 7c
Start same as 21 but use a desperate
undercut under the lip to gain the crimp only. Finish above.
SoC
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28)
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Pap Start Weird Variation 6b, Font 7a
First and second red dots, now go
R and wierdly use the twin paps in the roof
to get through.
SoC
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29)
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Stone Free 12m. 6c+, Font
7b,c
The cruxy footless lip traverse,
R-L-R or L-R-L finishing into 21.
SoC
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30)
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High Traverse 4a
Starting R of the roof, pull onto the wall to move L.
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The Stage (Eliminate Wall):
Key to holds:
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B1)
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Small scallop
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B2)
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Sharp mono
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B3)
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Poor edge
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L1)
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Juggy undercut
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L2)
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Sidepull
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L3)
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Top edge
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F)
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Good smalls below break
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S)
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Large ear below break
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D)
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Small flake edge
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I)
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Tricky edges between chips
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P)
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Authentic nipple
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V)
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Awkward square pocket
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T)
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Good sidepull
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U)
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Tricky sloper
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Q)
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Good edge
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Z)
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Undercut
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O)
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Tricky pinch
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E)
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Big flatty
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H)
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Sloper
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W)
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Poor edge
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X)
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Tiny sharp edges
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31)
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The Craic 4b
The green off-width to the top.
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32)
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Better Alternative
Climb 4b
The reddish wall R of this gives a better alternative.
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33)
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High Traverse
5b,c Font 6a+
From the pedestal on the R, traverse L-R-L-R
SoC
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34)
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Hands So Low
6a, Font 6c
Low traverse L-R-L-R on dinks
SoC
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35)
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Low Traverse
5b, Font 6a
L-R-L-R- on anything big.
SoC
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