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This
crag is partly covered by the Lakes
Rockfax to which the page & route numbers refer.
Apiary
Wall (p146)
(10b)
Royal Jelly F6b
Starts
up Honey Pot (1st 3 bolts). traverse left along ledge.
Follow staples up to pig's tail.
John
Adams, Peter Cheung, 6th May 1995
(17b)
Bee Hive F6c
Starts
up Apiarist then breaks out left. Follow staples to pig's
tail.
Bill
Hannah, John Adams 7th May 1995
Scabby
Back
(p148)
(34) The
Steal E4
(6b).
Aptly named. An old project right of Legend’s Friend. Three
bolts to pig's tail (Project 34 in Rockfax).
Mike
Robinson, Chris Johnstone 27th September 1995
(35)
I Wish I Was F8a
Project
35 in Rockfax
Dave
Birkett, 10th October 1998
(36b)
Frigging Friend E3
A truly independent line!?
(6a). Start up Fisherman's
Friend and step left and climb to gain the top break. Traverse
left to lower off Frigging
in the Rigging.
This epoch making climb contains 6 moves, one of which is good.
A Grieg, PJ Kane, August 2000
South of Fisherman's Steps
The following routes lie inbetween Fisherman's Steps and Gay Trip.
Rat Way 15m E4
Pumpy crack climbing. Descend the Fisherman's Steps to 7 metres past a large boulder where there is a tower formed by two cracks. Climb to the top of the right-hand thin crack and then traverse rightwards for 2.5 metres (horn hold on right) to finish up a lay-back crack with a crux pull over the top into a bramble bush. Abseil descent - take your own tat.
Mark Greenbank, Wez Hunter, 1st October 2006
Never Turn Your Back on the Sea 42m E4/5 **
An impressive groove and overhanging crack system which gives suatained and pumpy climbing. Follow the path down from Fisherman's Steps. Where this path leaves the crag, traverse a sandstone slab to and obvious big left-facing corner. Take a full rack of Friend and two size 3s.
1 21m (6a). Climb the corner to a roof. Go up a crack in the roof and a crack above to a grassy ledge. Peg belay but back it up with wires.
2 21m (6b). Follow a thin crack above the belay to its top and then move leftwards under the roof. Follow good rightward trending handholds over the roof to a tricky mantelshelf. Go up slabs above trending leftwards to the top. Belay well back on the right at the fence – stake hidden in brambles.
Mark Greenbank, Wez Hunter, 1st October 2006
P1 previously climbed by Mark Greenbank, Greg Cornforth, 1st September 2006
South Head
This crag and the other routes mentioned below were
described in the 1972 FRCC publication, St Bees New Climbs, which
is long out of print. The routes described below have not been
reported previously.
Zebedee 65m VS
1 10m. Start up a wide crack left of the
start of Ullcoats and Florence to gain the ledge
at the arete left of the chimney of Florence.
2 30m. Move right along the ledge to a bolt
and climb the flake in the corner right of Florence to
a ledge. Continue up an offwidth crack to a grass ledge.
3 25m. From the right end of the ledge follow
a flake line trending right to the top.
Mark Bailey, Brian Davison, 26th March 1989
On The Beach 110m HVS
The first south facing groove-chimney approximately
30m south of Florence.
1 20m. Start up a corner, (damp) to a ledge,
bolt belay.
2 20m. Climb a dirty chimney at the left
end of the ledge to another bolt belay.
3 35m. Climb a crack in the face right of
the belay to a ledge, bolt, then up a few feet and traverse left
to the bottom of a corner. Climb this and traverse right along
a narrow ledge to belay in a crack in the steep headwall.
4 35m. Traverse right to the end of the ledge
then step down and around a corner (exposed) before moving up
a groove to grass and the top.
B Davison, M Bailey, 25th March 1989
Argonaut 115m Mild Extreme
Between Argo and Whitsend is
a prominent southward facing chimney-corner line with a large
flat block protruding at the top.
1 40m. Start up a chimney-groove left of
the main fault. Climb this to a ledge after 10m (bolt). Move right
along the ledge and up some cracks to another ledge, bolt on the
right. Continue up the cracks to a ledge, bolt belay.
2 35m. Move right 5m and go up a short corner
to a roof. Either climb over the roof at its right by a faint
flake, or squirm right along the bedding plane below the roof
till it is possible to stand up at the arete. Climb up to a ledge
reached by the more direct approach. Continue up cracks in a corner
on the right until a large ledge is reached in the main chimney
line.
3 40m. From the back of the chimney climb
up to a corner on the right. Follow this to a ledge below the
flat block capping the chimney. Move right through the overhangs
then eventually back left to end up on
the flat block. Scramble to the top.
B Davison, M Bailey, 27th March 1989
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