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Routes dropped from the guidebook
Buttermere |
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FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB
of the
English Lake District |
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Full descripions of the following routes have been omitted from the current guidebook, either because the climb could not be located, or because it is overgown, dangerous, or of very poor quality - and in some cases all three. The descriptions given are unlikely to have been checked and are given for historical interest only. Anyone hoping to climb these routes should exercise extreme caution. In each case, the approximate location of the route is mentioned in the current guide. Some of the older climbs are measured in feet; 1 foot (') = 0.3048 metres. |
BUTTERMERE
Yew Crag |
Peregrine Buttress 500feet VD
Start at the lowest left-hand corner of the crag.
(1) 100 feet. A wall, steep but avoidable, with excursions to the left where necessary. Exposed.
(2) 250 feet. Straight up the buttress ahead, on splintery rock, with a variety of line choice.
(3) 150 feet. The buttress splits, the left-hand division forming a steepo nose which awaits conquest. The climb makes for the crack junction of the divide and continues up it on heather to the top.
CWF Noyce (solo) 25th July 1941 |
BUTTERMERE
Incline Wall |
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This very small crag (224 141, Alt. 450m, South-West Facing) has a sunny aspect, but, as with all the rock hereabouts, it is of dubious quality. It can be seen from Honister Pass and is situated to the right of Buckstone How , above an ill-defined incline. Follow the approach for Buckstone How , until the fellside can be ascended to its foot (17min). Lines on the main wall have been climbed but not recorded. The isolated rib on the extreme right, has a line of hollow flakes on its right-hand flank:
Musical Chairs 13m VS 2006
The rib on the extreme right of the wall has a line of flakes on its right-hand flank (facing Honister mine). Start below here on a higher ledge.
(4b). Climb the flakes with care to a ledge at the top of the rib. Move up for 3 metres then step right to a motley collection of spike belays.
BJ Clarke (solo) 27th July 2006
Leporello 14m MVS 2006
A rather better offering, starting 3 metres left of Musical Chairs at the base of a groove, from the top of which springs a fine-looking flake crack.
(4b). Climb the left rib of the groove and gain the flake crack delicately from the left. Continue up it to join Tuning Fork, and finish as for that climb.
BJ Clarke (solo) 27th July 2006 |
BUTTERMERE
High Crag/Wall End Buttress |
| Pinnacle Rib 350 feet S
The climb runs up the central of three ribs coming down between Gatesgarth Chimney and Wall End Arete.
The rib is followed to a wall with a pinnacle against it. The wall is ascended from the top of the pinnacle to a ledge. Pleasant climbing continues to the top of the crag. No measurements were taken.
A Barton, EB Mendus, 5th October 1941
Variety Corner (75m, S, 1939) takes a line to the left of Flue Gully and appears to have been partially incorporated into Wall End Arête. Descrption awaited. |
BUTTERMERE
Rannerdale Knotts |
The crag immediately above the pull-off (163 184) has three routes, however, the rockfall danger to cars and people below will dictate when climbing is prudent.
Kavanagh 35m VD 1987
A direct route which starts 10 metres to the right of the lowest point of the crag.
Climb the wall right of the holly bush to a ledge and flake. Continue up the broken wall above on good holds to a grassy terrace. Tree belay.
S Hubball, W James, 24th April 1987
Front Line 36m VS 1987
Start at the top of the eroded scree slope beneath a short steep wall.
1 30 m (4c). Climb the wall on the right to a ledge. Move left and climb the green wall above to the black crack. Climb the crack and broken corner above to a ledge.
2 6 m. Climb the broken rib above to finish.
N Kekus, S Hubball, 22nd April 1987
The Fox 30m VS 1987
(4c). Climb the slab 3 metres right of Front Line to below the overhanging corner. Move right round the rib and climb the wall above to exit by a short groove on the left. Belay up on the right.
S Hubball, N Kekus, 22nd April 1987
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