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Routes dropped from the guidebook
Pillar (& Ennerdale) |
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FELL and ROCK
CLIMBING CLUB
of the
English Lake District |
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Full descripions of the following routes have been omitted from the current guidebook, either because the climb could not be located, or because it is overgown, dangerous, or of very poor quality - and in some cases all three. The descriptions given are unlikely to have been checked and are given for historical interest only. Anyone hoping to climb these routes should exercise extreme caution. In each case, the approximate location of the route is mentioned in the current guide. Some of the older climbs are measured in feet; 1 foot (') = 0.3048 metres. |
ENNERDALE
Bowness Knott |
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Snowstorm 77m S 1957
Start as for Black Crack Route.
1 25m. As for Black Crack Route to below the Black Crack . Then move right and up to belay on an oak tree in the corner.
2 16m. Go up left, climb onto the Bos'n's Chair and up a steep slab to a belay in the Crow's Nest .
3 18m. Climb the narrow groove, inclining to the right, which is awkward but has good holds to a block belay.
4 18m. Easier slabs to the top.
F Crosby, A Watson
Original Start
The original start was 10 metres right and climbed the most appalling vegetated slabs to arrive at the same oak tree.
Tyrozet 74m S 1968
A poor vegetated route which ricochets between Black Crack Route , Snowstorm and Hailstorm . Start 4 metres right of Black Crack Route .
1 30m. Climb a short wall and vegetated rock to an oak tree. Continue up the broken crack to belay by a gnarled holly.
2 12m. Descend left and make for a prominent block on Snowstorm . Climb over the block and go rightwards to Hyacinth Chimney on Black Crack Route .
3 12m. Climb the wall immediately behind the tree and move right to belay above the chimney.
4 20m. Step down to the left, then back right to a sloping ledge. Climb the overhanging wall and follow the slabs above to the top.
DN Greenop , A McGregor, D Bonney, 29th May 1968
Left Wall E3?
This hard and potentially dangerous route ascends a series of overhanging grooves on the wall between Skyhook and Green Gash at an overhanging corner.
(5b). Climb the corner to an easier-angled section and gain the first of the grooves on the wall on the left. The overhanging grooves are ascended with increasing difficulty, and very strenuous moves have to be made on very suspect holds, until it is possible to pull out left near the top of Skyhook, and up to the tree belay at the top of Green Gash .
F/A Unknown
Bowness Girdle S
Description not known.
F/A Unknown |
ENNERDALE
Pillar Rock |
| Sirloin Climb 400 feet (this includes 100 feet of walking near the top). S
Leader needs 80 feet of rope.
The climb runs up a fairly prominent series of ribs bounding the left edge of the sweep of slabs which form the left wall of Shamrock Gully. Starts at the exact corner of the Gully which is also the lowest point of the rock. A pleasant route.
(1) 70 feet. Climb the arête on sloping holds for about 30 feet to a slanting slab. Here a move is made round the corner on the right into a groove, after which easier climbing leads to grass ledges. Belay.
(2) 30 feet. Cross a grass shelf to the left and climb the slab above to a long grass shelf below a steep wall. Small flake-belay in a furrow about the middle of the wall.
(3) 60 feet. Starting from the left-hand end of the grass shelf, climb the rib on sloping holds. Soon easier ground is reached and a series of shelves. The only belay appears to be a large block on a subsidiary slab about 15 feet to the left.
(4) 60 feet. Climb a short vertical and obvious crack over on the right to a small ledge below a slab which leads to a large ledge with a good pointed belay.
(5) 100 feet. Scramble over broken ribs and grass ledges to a thread-belay below a prominent sharp rib.
(6) 40 feet. The rib itself is climbed to an excellent hold below a mass of shattered rock where a short traverse is taken into the grassy gully on the left. Thread-belay.
(7) 25 feet. Ascend the gully to grass ledges and a huge block-belay.
(8) 30 feet. An easy scramble to the top of the buttress. Cairn.
AT Hargreaves, SH Cross, RE Hargreaves, AM Nelson, CJA Cooper 28th May 1939
Green Pastures 525 feet. S
Leader needs 80 feet of rope. Good ledges and belays. Lies on the tower immediately left of Walker 's Gully and starts about 50 feet to the left of that climb below a V-shaped slope of grass. Cairn. The climb is somewhat grassy.
50 feet. Walk easily upwards towards the left to an overhanging corner bounded by a rib on its right.
(1) 55 feet. To attain a small heather ledge round to the right of the rib, a delicate traverse is made. Awkward grass ledges follow and lead to a V-shaped chimney. A small pillar is seen on its right and a fine flake-belay is just above forming the left wall of the chimney.
(2) 15 feet. Climb the V-chimney. The exit is on its right. Belay will be found on a good grass ledge.
(3) 50 feet. Ascend the pleasant chimney just to the right to a grass ledge with a good spike-belay in a crack on the wall above. This chimney is used on the alternative start to Walker 's Gully.
(4) 25 feet. The vertical wall, passing the belay, is climbed on good small holds. Awkward grass ledges finish the pitch at a nook with an excellent belay.
(5) 80 feet. The fluted rib behind the belay is climbed for about 15 feet and leads to extensive grass shelves. Above rises a steep wall with some broken rocks towards its right. These are taken to another grass ledge and thread block-belay near the Great Heather Shelf, about 60 feet above the first grass ledges.
(6) 50 feet. A scramble over grass straight ahead to a large detached flake. Belay.
(7) 30 feet. Working slightly left, awkward grass ledges are followed to a belay below a very steep chimney.
(8) 40 feet. From the grass ledge below the chimney descend a few feet by a small crack under the left wall (right looking out). Follow some small ledges to a curious flake at the foot of a groove. Delicate climbing of increasing difficulty brings one to a sloping ledge at the top of the groove leading to a grass corner on the left and a good thread-belay.
(9) 70 feet. Walk up the glacis to the right then follow some grass and a slightly awkward corner. Easy grass ledges follow and an open easy chimney on the left brings another large ledge within reach. (A steep and deeply-cut chimney which continues straight on from the foot of the last easy chimney may be taken, it leads direct to the top of the pitch 10—it is difficult.)
(10) 40 feet. Traverse right over an awkward corner and walk up grass to a good belay in some broken rocks on the right.
(11) 35 feet. Cross the grassy corner on the left and climb the steep slab which forms its left wall. At the level of a grass ledge a crack is entered and climbed to a shelf and belay.
(12) 35 feet. A steep slab with good holds is climbed to a cairn. Scrambling leads to the top of Shamrock.
SH Cross, AT Hargreaves, RE Hargreaves, AM Nelson, CJA Cooper, 7th April 1939
Is known to have been repeated by Ken Constable not long after the first ascent, but the lower pitches could not be located in 2007.
Pedestal Wall 108m S 1937
A rather grassy climb, which nevertheless offers good slab climbing in dry conditions. Seen from below Green Ledge, the climb follows a direct line ending at the foot of the Nor-Nor-West Climb, making possible 300 metres of continuous climbing to the top of High Man. Start 50 metres right of the lowest point of the crag at a pink slab.
1 30m. Climb the shallow right facing groove straight up to below a grass ledge. Step right and continue delicately up the crest of a slabby rib to a big grass slope.
2 18m. Almost straight ahead is a corner. Start up the easy slabby rocks on the right, and go straight up for about 10 metres to a block on the left edge of the slab. Above this a grass ledge is attained.
3 30 m. Continue up a ribbon of slabby rocks to a grass ledge, and climb a short wall on the left of a groove to a grass stance (possible belay). Either move to the right and climb a pleasant steep slab, or go straight up the chimney to a grass ledge.
4 30 m. Work up to the right, then break out left on to a fine slab, which leads to the left end of a long narrow ledge. Continue straight up, keeping well to the right for the last few metres.
RST Chorley, F Graham, 1st August 1937
Variation Start VS 1938
Climb a thin crack and its right wall 2 metres right of the original route, and continue up the stepped groove above. All as thin as the crack.
F Graham, MW Guinness 10th October 1938. Originally stepped left onto the original route. Continued directly by R Kenyon, C King, SJH Reid, 24th July 2005. However they could not locate pitches 2 - 4.
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ENNERDALE
Black Crag |
Left-Hand Route D 1929
Start at a cairn.
1 25'. Moderate climbing to a belay.
2 30'. Up to a grassy corner.
3 20'. Diag trav left.
4 30'. Work right 10' then straight up ridge.
5 35'. Up rib to belay.
6 25'. Rib climbed on rt to?? ledge.
7 25'. Easy rock.
A Wood-Johnson, E Wood-Johnson, CJ Astley Cooper, WG Hennessy 26th June 1929
Right-Hand Route D 1929
Start at a cairn.
1 30'. To stance.
2 50'. Slab by crack on left, then straight ahead.
3 15'. Trav to right on a rib and in another 30' a belay is found.
4 20'. A rib on left.
A Wood-Johnson, E Wood-Johnson, CJ Astley Cooper, WG Hennessy 26th June 1929 |
ENNERDALE
Anglers' Crag |
Desperate Dan 30m VS 1980
A direct variation on Forgotten Wall , which is poorly protected, but nevertheless contains some good, clean climbing. Start immediately right of Dan's Mine on the arête.
(4b). Climb the arête, to break through an overhang at 3 metres, climb the centre of the wall, crossing Forgotten Wall (runners), and then to the top.
K Ball, D Martin, 16th March 1980
Dan the Man 30m VS
Follow Desperate Dan to the break in the overhang, move left, and follow a small corner and then a groove above, finishing left via a crack in the bulge, to the top.
Des Johnson (solo after top-rope practice), 27th July 1995
Forgotten Wall 30m HS 1958
Another pleasant climb, with adequate protection. Start 2 metres right of Dan's Mine, at a shallow crack.
(4a). Follow the thin crack for 4 metres, and then move diagonally left up a shallow groove-line. Continue straight up. passing a huge detached block on the left, to an easy finish.
F/A unknown
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