Frustration 80m VS 1970
Takes the obvious deep crack on the left hand part of the face until joining Jimarten below the leaning block. A reference line for the cliff.
Start directly below the crack.
1
6m (4c). Climb the short slab to a steep little groove. Up this to the ledge. Belays up on the left.
2 18m (4b). Climb the crack starting with a layback move before getting inside. Bolt belay on the horizontal portion of the flake.
3
12m. Climb the remainder of the crack, then traverse up and right behind the large leaning block. Nut belay at the far side.
4
6m (4b). Climb the crack and slab to a ledge and piton belay.
5
14m (4b). Climb the steep crack above the belay to a large grass terrace.
6
22m (4c). Climb the steep corner crack on the left of the terrace to the top.
I Angell , R ( Bob ) Bennett, April 1970
Peg used for aid on pitch 1.
Variation
5 9m (4b). Move left up onto a ledge. Traverse left and up the corner to a second ledge. Move left and climb the thin crack in the wall of the terrace.
Go-Go Groove 80m HVS 1970
The obvious jamming crack to the left of Jimarten . The natural finish after the first two pitches is up Jimarten but as much new ground as possible is described.
Start 20 metres right of Frustration.
1
18m (5a). Start directly below the overhanging crack and climb steep rock to the crack. Use one peg for aid and continue to the second bulge. Pull over this to gain a stance and piton belay.
2
9m (4c). Continue up the crack to a ledge. Piton or bolt belay (junction with pitch 2 of Jimarten).
3
12m. Walk right along the ledge to a peg belay below the overhanging flake crack.
4
18m (4a). Climb inside the flake and up to belay on the large terrace.
5
23m (4c). Climb the steep corner crack on the left of the terrace to the top.
D Scott , I Angell , H Walmsley, 3rd October 1970
Several pegs used for aid on pitch 1.
Jimarten 70m VS 1969
In the centre of the face is a large block leaning against the crag about halfway up. Obvious crack-lines go either side of this and the climb takes the right hand one. There are two cracks about 2 metres apart beneath which is the start. Starts 20 metres right of Frustration.
1 7m. Climb steep rock to a ledge. Belay on large block on the right.
2
18m (4b). Walk along the ledge to the left, up a short crack and then traverse right across a slab. Climb the short bulging corner to a ledge on the right. Continue up the crack above. Belay 3 metres back on a peg or bolt.
3
12m (4c). Step left and climb over some loose and shattered blocks to a large leaning block. Nut belay.
4 6m (4b). Climb the crack and slab to a ledge and piton belay.
5
14m (4b). Climb the steep crack above the belay to a large grass terrace.
6
22m (4c). Climb the steep corner crack on the left of the terrace to the top.
B Smith, I Angell (alt) 1969 Oct 26 Jimarten
A peg used for aid on pitch 2. Pitches 1- 3 had been climbed previously by T Martin and J Wood.
Variation
3 12m (4a). Clamber over more loose rock on the left to a large steep crack. Peg runner. Up the crack to peg belays on the left. The next three routes lead to the top of the pinnacle known as Lawson's Leap .
At the time of the previous guidebook (1972) an in-situ plank existed reaching across from the pinnacle to the main face to enable an easy return to the mainland following an ascent. Therefore to descend from the top of Lawson's Leap one could pre-place a plank prior to ascending any of the next three routes (after checking the current ethics regarding pre-placed planks of wood) or by the following two pitches:
1 21m. Reverse the chimney and take a belay on the chockstones in Lawson's Leap.
2
21m. Climb across the chockstone and along a ledge to a wobbly block. Up the corner crack to the top of the cliff
Variation
2
12m. From the top of the chockstones place a thin peg high up in horizontal crack. Use this for aid and pull up and left on good holds to a niche. Move right and pull over the short wall to the top.
Velvet Underground 110m VS 1968
Starts about 10 metres right of Ossicle.
1
6m. Climb easily up to a large ledge and peg belay.
2
21m. Climb the shallow corner to a small ledge. Traverse up left for 10 metres to an earth ledge. Peg belay.
3
9m. Climb the crack and struggle up the tight chimney to a ledge. Nut belay on the right.
4
35m. Move right round the arete and traverse right along the ledge for 6m to a pile of loose stones. Step off the top of these and traverse left to a crack which is climbed for 5 metres to a ledge. Move left then back right to a good ledge running across the face. Move right along this to a deep curving chimney. Peg belay.
5 40m. Climb the inside of the chimney to the top of Lawson's Leap. Descend as above.
A Wilmot , MJ Spring, October 1968
Peg for aid on pitch 3. Wilmot and Spring were part of a visiting team from North London MC. The original route walked along the whole length of the large ledge from the gap between the Main Cliff and the finish to Gay Trip. This, and the distance to descend the pinnacle, gave a total route length of 780 feet – to the amazement of the local climbers.
Poseidon 95m HVS 1971
Starts at the same place as Velvet Underground.
1 6m. Climb easily up to a large ledge and peg belay.
2
27m. Climb the centre of three grooves to the base of a steep chimney crack. Climb the crack to enter the deep chimney. Climb behind the chockstones to a ledge and belay.
3 15m. Above is a deep crack. Layback round the overhang and chimney up to a ledge. Climb the easier crack to a ledge and spike belay.
4
18m Traverse left along a slabby ledge, round a corner and up grass to a peg belay on the right.
5
30m Move up and right to a break in the ‘flutings' on the front of Lawson's Leap . Up this for 7m to an overhang. Make a difficult move over this to an easier angled groove. Follow this to the top of Lawson's Leap and descend as above.
M Burbage, W Young (var), W A Barnes, September 1971
Pitch 5 had been climbed previously by M Burbage, W Young, J Wilson, 12 th June 1971.
Tashunca-Uitco 160m HVS/A1 1970
Starts about 35 metres right of Velvet Underground.
1 18m (5b). Climb the flake stepping left to a small ledge at 6m. Climb up using a peg to gain a flake crack. Traverse left to a ledge and peg belay.
2
21m (5a). Climb the crack and narrow chimney above to a ledge on the left. Peg belay.
3 15m (4a). Climb up bearing slightly left to a ledge and peg belay.
4 15m (A1). Traverse right for 9m and climb the thin crack above on pegs. Peg belay.
5
9m. Walk left and take a stance below a large chimney crack.
6
40m (4c). Climb the crack traversing left at the top to the chimney of Velvet Underground. Climb the chimney direct to the top of the pinnacle and descend as above.
J Wilson , B Smith (alt), 11th July 1970
Variation to pitch 8 (It is uncertain what this refers to, a check in the original guide might make things clearer), W Young, WA Barnes, June 1971.
The 1972 guidebook mentioned a plank that was put across the gap from the top of Lawson 's Leap to the mainland, thus allievating the need to downclimb and reascend the main face. Although not very far, this would have been quite exposed .
Tashunca-Uitco Direct 12m XS 1971
Round the buttress to the left is the continuation of the crack on pitch 2 to the ground. Start 3 metres left of this.
1
12m. Climb up a metre or so to a good foothold. Difficult moves across the wall on the right lead to the main crack 3 metres above the ground. Continue up the crack (good protection) to the overhang. Make a difficult pull over this to a stance and peg belay at the top of pitch 1.
M Burbage , W Young, 3rd June 1971
Bedford Jump 105m HVS 1970
Start in a wide groove below a pointed overhang 10 metres right of Tashunca Uitco.
1 18m (4c). Climb the slab on the left then move right to a ledge below a thin crack. Climb the crack on excellent finger jams to a ledge. Move left behind a block. Thread belay.
2 12m (4c). Move left onto the wall. Climb the wall using a large angle peg in a pocket and a 2½” bong to gain the ledge. Peg belay in the corner on the right.
3
18m (4c). Climb the corner above for a metre or so when an awkward move right leads into a groove. Climb the groove to a ledge. Belay 6m higher in a shallow cave.
4
27m (4b). Step right and climb the large flake crack before climbing steep vegetation to belays by the right hand side of Lawson's Leap.
5
30m (4c). Step over the wreckage and climb the obvious corner-cracks to the top of the cliff.
I Angell , B Smith, J Wilson (var), 4th July 1970
A peg was used for aid on pitch 1.
Black Pig Slant (Direct Start to Black Pearl) 22m XS 1971
Starts from a raised ledge 7 metres right of Black Pearl.
1. Climb the pedestal to the foot of the crack proper. Belay.
2.
Difficult wedging in the wide crack past a chockstone runner. Make a difficult move to the overhang. (A nut runner can be arranged deep in the back of the crack, strenuous to place). Move out under the undercut chimney and make a strenuous and strange move to jam head and shoulder in it. Easier climbing leads to the ledge at the top of pitch 1 of Black Pearl.
K Myhill, T Protcor (alt), 18th June 1971.
Iron Horse 70m A2/S 1970
Starts on a raised ledge about 20 metres right of Black Pearl.
1
18m. Climb the crack on good pegs to a bolt on the right. A peg high on the right enables 2 bolts to be reached. Pegs leads to a ledge and bolt belay.
2
15m. Climb the bolts on the left to a nut and peg move. Up the bolts crossing a small roof to a small ledge.
3
18m. The bolts are followed to a belay below a corner-groove.
4
18m. The groove is much easier than it looks. Belay well back on the fence posts.
J Wilson , B Smith (alt), 5th September 1970
First complete ascent.
Ragnor 130m HVS 1971
At the far right hand end of the Iron Horse Wall is a large roof. The climb starts up grooves directly below this roof. Dry weather is recommended for an ascent.
1
22m. Climb the slab below the left hand groove until it is possible to traverse right to a horizontal ledge at the foot of the right hand groove. Start the groove with a peg for aid, then continue by jamming and bridging onto a spacious ledge below the roof.
1
12m. Traverse right over block and to the left edge of the amphitheatre base. Nut belay
2
15m. Cracks and walls on the left of the amphitheatre lead to a ledge a metre or so below the amphitheatre rim. Nut belay
3
4m. Climb the corner, peg for aid, to a ledge. Nut belay
4
25m. Follow the cleaned ledge right and then up broken ground to the base. Move up open groove on the left to a stance and peg belay.
5
33m. Move diagonally right across ledges on the wall until it is possible to climb via slabs and corners to a ledge below an overhang at the top of the cliff. Belay on the right behind a large jammed boulder.
6
22m. Traverse right along the ledge and round a corner to a shattered groove which leads to the finish.
WA Barnes , A Jackman (Var), I Singleton, D A Elliot, January 1971
Variation
7 15m. Move off the top of the block and climb left through the overhangs to the top.
M Burbage, W Young, February 1971.
Easy Way Down 105m Severe 1970
Not!
A scrappy route. Not recommended except as an easy way off from this part of the cliff if cut off by the tide. Starts about 50 metres right of Ragnor round the corner of the buttress.
1 30m. Climb the ramp. Often wet. Belay on blocks.
2
15m. Walk up and belay on pegs in the wall on the right.
3
40m. Traverse left below the wall to blocks in the corner. Up this for 3m then step left to a small chimney with a slab on the left. Climb this to steep grass. Keep right to a stance and peg belay.
4
18m. Climb the slab on the right, then left to reach the top.
B Smith, I Angell (alt), 19th August 1970
Coprophagism 75m VS 1969
Takes a line of wide cracks trending right above a short wall. About 100 metres South of Easy Way Down.
1
12m (4b). Start off jumbled blocks and climb the wall trending left before moving up to a good ledge. Peg for aid to make the final move.
2
13m (4a). Climb the crack on the right.
3
20m (4b). Continue up the wider chimney crack over wedged boulders. Belay under the final chimney.
4
30m (4a) Up the chimney to the top.
C Jackson , B Andrew, 1969
Pantomime 110m XS 1971
Starts 30 metres right of Coprophagism and takes the obvious crack-line up the front of the buttress.
1
12m. Climb the wall to a ledge at the foot of the large flake which starts the crack-line.
2
33m. Layback onto the flake and chimney up behind it to emerge on a good ledge. Thread runner. Follow the crack with increasing difficulty to its finish. Traverse left along the ledge for about 4 metres to a short flake on the wall. Peg and nut belays.
3
7m. Climb the flake and standing on it make a long reach to gain a good ledge. Mantelshelf onto this with difficulty and move one metre right. Peg and nut belay.
4
7m. Traverse up to the right, ignoring leftward possibilities, to a peg belay at the foot of a leftward slanting flake/ramp.
5
15m. Climb the ramp and flake crack above. Move right to another crack with a natural thread. Ascent this to a ledge and peg belays beneath the large roofs.
6
15m (5b). Move up to the large overhang running round to the right and hand-traverse to a peg which is used for aid to gain a narrow ledge under the overhang. Move round the corner to a large stance.
23m (5a). Bridge up the corner on loose flakes. Good nut runner under the roof. Make a hard move right on a hand jam then traverse right on undercuts to a little corner. Climb over the bulge onto steep grass. Belay well back.
A Evans, K Myhill (alt), January 1971
Babes in the Wood 112m XS 1969
Starts about 20 metres right of Pantomime.
1
12m (4c). Climb the steep corners. Nut belay under the large overhang.
2
22m (5a). Up the overhanging chimney to a traverse line leading left. Belay below a short wall.
3
4m (5c). The steep wall on pockets.
4
27m (5b). Bridge up the groove and traverse right to an eroded spike. Layback up the crack with a hard move to finish.
5
11m (4c). Climb the scoop behind the stance then go diagonally left to a belay on the arête.
6
15m (5b). Move up to the large overhang running round to the right and hand-traverse to a peg which is used for aid to gain a narrow ledge under the overhang. Move round the corner to a large stance.
7
23m (5a). Bridge up the corner on loose flakes. Good nut runner under the roof. Make a hard move right on a hand jam then traverse right on undercuts to a little corner. Climb over the bulge onto steep grass. Belay well back.
K Myhill, T Proctor (alt), 4th/5th April 1969
“Takes an intricate line up a wall right of ‘the Birds Zawn".
The Auk 60m HVS 1970
The climb takes the obvious chimney 30 metres south of Tantalum . The last big buttress before Fleswick Bay .
1
9m. Climb the chimney over the chockstones to a ledge and belays.
2
22m. Move left and climb the chimney crack over chockstones to a resting place on the right. Continue up the layback crack to a small overhang. Move right and up the crack above where it widens to an overhang. Gain a ledge on the left and continue up to a stance and perched block belay.
3
12m. Climb the crack on the left to a jammed boulder. Continue up the wide crack to a ledge and belays.
4 18m. Move right and up, then traverse left above the belay to a small corner. Climb loose rock to the top of the cliff. The Auk
W Robinson , K Perry (alt), 25th August 1970
A peg was used for aid on pitch 2.
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