Catherine 24m E2 5b
02-Sep-2017, M March, K Roberts, P Rigby

This worthwhile climb ascends the corner and groove system on the left of the steep headwall (the centrepiece of the upper crag) between Gowbarrow Bastion (HVS) and the second pitch of Gowbarrow Buttress (VS ). The groove features some technical moves on rough rock.

Start from ledges below and right of the large oak at the right end of the grassy bay, these can be gained by a scramble (see Eastern Crags Guide page 209); on the first ascent a straightforward abseil from the tree at the top right of the crag was used to gain these ledges.

From the right end of the block covered ledge gain the short slab using a layaway. Move left into the corner and ascend its left wall steeply until a ledge is reached on the left. Fix runners and make a rising traverse rightwards to a shallow gear slot in the groove. Make moves back up and left (crux) until easier rock leads to the top.

Notes provided by FA team.

a. It would appear that the corner on the first part of this climb has previously been climbed as part of Gowbarrow Buttress Direct (HVS) pitch 2, this route is not in the current Eastern Crags guide. The following details have been taken from https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=152255 and have not been checked. Editor: The route length quoted below seem to be inconsistent with the length of Gowbarrow Buttress (p1 22m p2 18m)

                               Gowbarrow Buttress Direct  20m  HVS 5a

                               1. Climb the first part of Gowbarrow Buttress climb the corner above and slightly to the right from the big oak, belay

2. Head out right to pull onto a slab to gain the bottom of the corner. Go left along the ledge at the top of the corner and climb the groove, on the right, to the top

b.  We assume the upper groove is unclimbed.

c.The 2011 Eastern Crags guidebook crag photo diagram (p 205); the line of this climb (Catherine) is approximately indicated as the upper pitch of Gowbarrow Buttress (VS), i.e. Gowbarrow Buttress  seems to be indicated erroneously in the guide.

One comment on "Catherine"

  1. The slab and corner on the first part of this climb form part of pitch 3 of the Girdle Traverse (HVS) which was climbed in 1966 [Eastern Crags, 2011]. The route description should therefore reference the Girdle Traverse (pitch 3), i.e.

    From the right end of the block covered ledge gain the short slab using a layaway (junction with the Girdle Traverse P3). Move left into the corner and ascend its left wall steeply until a ledge is reached on the left (as for the Girdle Traverse P3). Fix runners and make a rising traverse rightwards to a shallow gear slot in the groove. Move back up and left (crux) until easier rock leads to the top.

    The climb Gowbarrow Buttress Direct (HVS) registered at https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=152255 needs checking as it may not feature any new climbing.

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